JeepinDev89

Just curious.. why replace studs from a Dana 30 wheel bearing? I know it'd be a good idea to put new ones in, just don't understand why the dana 30 ones are used. Are they necessary? Thanks

So I finally got some pics and did work on the ole' MJ today. Pulled the seats, center console and dash. Was trying to get the carpet up to see how bad my floors were, but it started cooling off and the sun was going down. Next weekend if it's still available I'm going to check out a '94 XJ country 4.0 5 speed. It has a salvage title and I a plan on using every part off it I can for my HO swap, plus i'll be getting the 5 speed too. Pretty stoked, until next weekend, this is how she sits... The day I brought her home: Today: Seats out: Center console out: Dash out: And while I'm at it... my little bros XJ, he's in it for $500, still be added is his AALs and Thunderbird springs, hoping to net about 3.5-4"

I will try to get some this weekend. I work 2nd shift and live in town and the Comanche is at my parents place. Really only time I'll have to work on it is the weekends.

Don't think it's anything special. Just a Pioneer. No rollbar, cargo light. I don't plan on wheeling it hard, just driving the crap out of it. I plan on making it a reliable DD that'll handle light towing, a little mud, and some snow in the winter. I bought it before he was gonna scrap it. The only reason I plan on switching it to HO injection is beacuse the current Renix injection is FUBARed plus missing all of the vacuum lines. I have a local JY that cuts me awesome deals on parts and they have several XJs that I can rob of wiring harnesses and such. I'd honestly like to make it a 5spd someday, but that'll only happen if I blow up the tranny in it. It's my first time around, i'll take it as it comes.

After not being in the seat of a Jeep, especially a Comanche, I had to find another. After a couple of months of searching, I thought I had found the one. It was a 1991 Comanche 4.0 Auto 4wd for $900 that needed to be put back together after talking to the guy he had it for 5 or 6 years and it's just sat in pieces. I drove an hour and half and I find a 1990 Comanche 4.0 Auto 4wd. Not was I was looking for at all. But I figured it'd be a good starting point. Pros: $500 Original buckets ' Vent windows Dual exhaust Hitch Only rust I seen was on drivers floor Cons: Although not rusty the body has some nice dents The "NEW" motor he had installed sat for years with no oil and was locked up Needs new rear bumper Needs complete front end: doors forward I'm very optimistic when it comes to project vehicles I am very optimistic and sometimes only see the end result. Here goes my end result: HO injection New Paint 4.5" lift 32s Then I plan on beating the crap out of it!! I'll get pics up soon. I know you guys love pics. Devin

interested in the pdf with the bracket measurements. my rear bumper is rusted to all he**, might as well replace it with something that's going to last awhile.

Thanks, and i forget how hard it is to strip stuff and get it ready for paint. We have a parts cleaner and sandblaster here in the shop. I love them both, saves a lot of time. Devin

i'm assuming you guys sell the blackjack? i'll head over to the site right now and check it 'em out Thanks Devin

I've tried looking around for an aftermarket header for my 88 MJ, I'm getting an extra motor and would like to put a header on it before i swap it in. Any help would be great. Thanks CC Devin

I'd really like to know that color, i like it. Thanks Devin

not sure of the part number but there is a borla header on craigslist in STL, MO. i think the guy wanted $250 for it...

No, it's a regular 4.0 block... is there i difference in renix and HO blocks?

I'm pulling a motor from a TJ here in the next week or so... pretty sure the block is good. I'm in STL, MO a little farther of a drive than you inteded... let me know if you are interested. Devin

goblazers- your mj looks nice in the magazine. i love that pic.

So just picked up my March 2011 JP Magazine and was flipping through it and seen a nice MJ on page 70. Does anyone know if he is one or not? I was looking for some more info on his ride. But does a spring over really provide alomst 7" of lift on stock springs?

very nice! :cheers:

you looking for a title too? i have an 88 short bed 5spd 2wd. baltic blue. runs and drives, needs little things on it. let me know if you are interested.

i'm pretty sure. but ill check when i get up. and get back to you.

i have a dana 35 complete drum to drum. actually it's still sitting under my wrecked MJ. $150 and it's yours. I'm located in MO, not sure which would be the easiest way of getting it to you, but if your interested i am sure we could work something out. Thanks Devin

i got one out of a 91. will it work?

body parts can be from any year cherokee. 97-01 xj body parts require a little modification to make fit and work properly but the end result is nice. as for engine parts. your got the good ole' renix system. any xj pre '91 will work for that. hope this helps Devin

i've seen that one on craigslist. i was thinking about calling on it myself. also, i have an ax-15 out of a 94 xj, external slave. reverse synchro is blown. could rebuild or just use the way it is. Devin

Well, it seems that in the past week I have seen many others with problems like mine. Either no working turn signals, the blinker light stays on, whatever it it related to lights up front this simple and easy swap can make that all go away. First you are going to need a Dorman P/N 84716 (looks a little like this) After you have that you going to need a wire stripper/cutter/crimper. When I did this i took the whole front header panel off and disconnected the turn signal and headlight wiring harness. Although, it can be done by just removing the headlight bezel on the bad side with some screws. 2 in the orange side marker and two or three in the actual bezel (mine only had two but looked like one had been broken off before) After removing the bezel you are left with the rectangular turn signal. Simply unscrew the screws one on either side and pull it out just far enough to reach in there and turn the socket to come out of the housing. After this is done, take your wire cutters and cut just behind the black rubber bushings on the old/bad socket. After that is complete Strip the wires (18 gauge) and match them accordingly. New BLUE to old GREY. New BROWN to old BLUE. And New Black to old Black. after that is said and done crimp the wires using the supplied wire connectors and put a bulb in for a test run. If everything checks out fine and all is good, I recomemnd that you wrap the crimped wires with some eletrical tape to help them last longer. And you should be all good. Hope this helps guys. Wish I had more pics but I am stuck at work until about 12 today so I may post more pics afterwards. Thanks Devin

usually that is an indication that a bulb is out or that you blew a fuse. might wanna check your fuses too. Devin

Looks like i'll do one. headed to the parts store now. Thanks for the help guys. Devin