jeepmjga

Well did some more testing today. Had power back to the connector harness from the engine side but not when backprobing the pump side connector. Had a spare battery laying around so wired it directly to the battery to test, pump turns on but does not pump anything. Pulled it and checked the wiring, found a knicked gauge sending unit ground but all other wires looked ok. Ordered a new carter pump kit so hopefully that solves it. Kind of miffed why it would just not pump anything all of a sudden? Wired in reverse it pumps in reverse but will not pump anything through it when putting power to it in the normal order. Also installed new pressure regulator just because.

Its an 89, ballast resistor is good.

Best to backprobe connector while connected or check at pins in connector from engine side? I should be getting +/- 12v while cranking right? Thanks for your time, I'm still learning electrical stuff, never been my strong suit.

Had time to mess around with it today. Yes I have spark but now the fuel pump is NOT turning on at all. I guess i was hearing something else when I turn on the ignition. Tested small diag connector pin with circuit tester, the light is constant on when i first turn the key for a few seconds (for prime i assume) and when cranking its stays constant. Tried jumping the relay and still not getting any power to pump. Ballast resistor is intact and terminals are clean, fusible link from the icm looks good still. Connector close to the tank looks to be in good shape, pump was replaced as the first part of the build/resto. Unfortunately i have close to a full tank in it so was wondering thoughts before i drain and pull the pump? Edit: the ground behind the taillight is clean, shiny and tight.

Got a new regulator otw, ill check the pressures on Tuesday when I have some time and see what I get. Yes, also replaced the braided ground cable and added the extra ground cable to the radiator cross member bolt. Just re-refreshed all the grounds a couple days ago as well. Will check the ecu harnesses on tuesday as well. So small update, I straight wired the older sensor to the harness wires just temporarily to eliminate the possibility of a bad connector and got no change in results. Rewired the connector back in, installed NEWER cps, (also drilled to 3/8) and now am getting no start and only 2.8v to cps. Is there anywhere to still get a mopar cps and if so is there a part number out there? Having trouble finding a solid answer. Thanks for the suggestions so far everyone.

Ill check both of those next, I thought about fuel related but it runs great when its running, I can hear the fuel pump turning on and priming when I turn the key and all the fuel components are new. I'll ave to recheck all the connectors under there too. All less than 1000 miles old. Any other reason than bad sensor you think I'd be getting less .5v on the cps?

Hey all, so before I shell out dough on ANOTHER CPS, wondering if anyone has any suggestions. Got an intermittent no start/rough start condition. If the truck sits for a while I will have a very long crank time but usually it will start and run fine. If I go out to run errands or such I am getting a very rough start/no start condition for a few tries, but eventually it starts and runs normal. I replaced cps during the build and tested that one with a reading of .32 volts, so replaced again with a NAPA sensor, again same reading of .32 volts. Drilled out the top hole on both sensors and got up to .44v on both sensors after that, no change in start status. Just went out and did total ground refresh again, also made sure mating surface to bellhousing was clean. Condition started randomly about a month ago while out and about. Anyone got any suggestions before I fork out some $$ for a mopar sensor? All fuel system components are less than 1000 miles old except injectors (mustang injectors), new MAP, TPS, IAC, plugs/wires, cap/rotor, NGK coil, brand new Optima red top, but as I said it runs great once its started. Thanks everyone!

I think Pete is closer to Buford, but we have plenty of room here in ATL if you need somewhere to keep it as well.

Another light wheelin trip this weekend. Need a little more inner fender trimming as the front still rubs a little at full stuff but it drove the two hrs up and back with no problems and went up everything I pointed it at.

Well pretty much the last big project for now is complete. Finally got some nice cold a/c for these hot Georgia summers. I took a gamble and left the evap and heater core because I really didnt feel like removing the dash, the heat has always worked fine and it did blow cold ac at one point. New hoses, expansion valve, receiver/dryer, condenser, and compressor and I have some 40 degree temps from the vents! Woohoo! Now on to check out choccolocco mtn and gulches orv soon. Again just wanted to thank everyone that has helped out and all the info here to make this project a reality.

So in my theme of just replacing instead of repairing I am looking to get my A/C working again with the fast approaching Georgia summer temps. So any advice/help would be appreciated. I am looking to just replace all my A/C equipment and was starting to make a list. Obviously I would like to just do r134 instead of r12, the system is already empty of refrigerant but I was looking to replace the compressor, condenser, lines, evaporator, expansion valve, receiver/dryer, and I figure even the heat seems to work fine I might as well replace the heater core while I'm in there. Am I missing anything on the list? I am fairly new to working on HVAC stuff but my other question is if I am just replacing everything can I just put in all the new parts and charge the system and thats it? I was planning on getting a vacuum manifold set as well to refill. Another question is if I were to order all this stuff from rockauto would it all be ready for r134 already? I looked in the DIY section and have read the A/C refurb write up but as I said I'm pretty new to HVAC stuff so any help is appreciated!

A little maintenance lately, just threw in a new timing set, balancer, idler pulley and water pump. The front seal was starting to leak a little and everything was a bit crusty so figured I might as well go ahead and spruce everything up while I was in there. Still runs and cools great.

Sure did, got a couple other goodies along with it as well.

Buckets acquired! Got an xj bucket on the drivers side and an mj on the passenger ao at least one of them tilts forward. Changing the xj brackets out was a little bit of a pita but once i figured its a little easier to grind off the stud heads and use a bfh to get them off it went pretty easy. Thanks to eaglescout for the mj seat and console lid. Cheers!

I ended up finding all the parts I need for the swap, thanks tho!

Maybe ballast resistor is unplugged? Should be a ceramic resistor with two terminals on the drivers side top inner fender.

Id like to get in line for these if the OP doesnt want and youd be willing to ship to ATL if possible.

Took it out for a little light wheelin this weekend. Suspension rides like a cadillac and it climbed all the semi-difficult obstacles pretty easily. Def ready to get it out on a little bit harder stuff, but now on the hunt for some buckets and a center console. The bench is very comfortable but the lack of storage in the cab and absence of a right side armrest is getting to me.

Thanks man. Rode like butter. I aired down to 20 since we were on forest roads most of the day and the ride was pretty nice.

Well took it out for a real trip this weekend. Ran great and had a blast. Ditched the flowmaster for a stock muffler, much better choice in my opinion. Not too loud on the highway. Nice to finally get it off the road, brings back many memories of long weekends at Tellico. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DZOVNqmj7_EVnDrmexweCYtVzI8pwznY/view?usp=drivesdk

Just a thought because I did this, are the calipers on the correct side? If they are upside down they won't bleed correctly. I only ask because its easy to do. The bleeder and fitting should be on top. If you want to nix the whole stock MJ setup, Summit racing sells Wilwood prop valves.for about $100. I ended up using one and it works great, used existing brake lines, just had to find some adapter fittings to connect everything. I can take some pics if needed.

Update on this if anyone was curious. Been hunting a driveline noise for a while and it did in fact turn out to be the new shaft just barely contacting the old inner cad bearing a little bit every revolution. Finally got it removed and no more noise.

Theres actually 8 leaves in my pack but its a 4” inch lift with the Rubicon Express .5” shackle. They ran around $750 but shipping was expensive. They are just over the Colorado border in Grand Junction so you could prob make a trip and avoid that cost. It took a while because their steel kept getting back ordered but Lew was real responsive to all my questions.

Heck yea lookin good man! If you have to go with new rear springs Alcan was expensive but worth it and Lew was very awesome to deal with.

Not sure about the attic yet, havent been able to get in there. All walls are just concrete block.