MercManche

Ha, should I bring back some VM2.5s for everyone?

Its worth a shot, I can get em in the UK but I will only be going late this year if the whole pandemic bs stops. Yea I don't care for the boost gauge one bit, I want it because it would make the rest of the gauges a breeze. Maybe its hard to understand but trying to get signals from a diesel engine that only needs 1 wire to run is not as easy as it seems lol. Having a cluster that is set up for a diesel with similar rev ranges and all just makes it easier and is worth the $100-200 to me in place of buying and adapting like 6 different gauges and fabricating pods/panelling for them etc.

Diesel fuel gauge, tachometer, coolant temp range, etc.

Thanks guys! Also any idea what the trim of this comanche is? I assume its a base/custom?

LHD or RHD I am used to modifying clusters at this point. Would make an awesome addition to my mercmanche build. Boost gauge isnt necessary as I need it to go to 20-25psi or so.

got plenty of those t case bolts buddy

Hmmm. Is there a difference between the length of a 4wd and 2wd cable? this one would have to reach into the transfercase output housing.

manual or auto? 95 will have slight differences as its not a Renix era of electronics. I assume manual, then its a AX5, the 87 will be a internal slave, the 95 will be external, I believe the CPS should be different, but you can use the one from your 87 bellhousing. The outputs should be the same (21 spline) and all AX5s have the same input shaft. so you should be good mechanically. If its an auto then you should probably consider doing a manual to squeeze all the squirrels out of the 4 cyl lol!

Alright, its time to get started. Now that the drivetrain is free from it, I was able to pressure wash and get a good look at the truck without all the oil and dirt grime. No major rust, except the battery tray may need some help from a fresh 14ga sheet but the uniframe and all is perfect Pulled the inner fender off the jeep. Used a 3/16" HSS drill after center-marking all the spot welds. Bored it again with a 1/4" Carbide, and finished with a step drill. Will try and swipe one from a XJ tomorrow. I will most likely use Mr. Sawzall as I would like to drill the holes based off the old one as best as I can lol. This marks all the completion of step 2 which is to remove all the damaged body parts. I will probably get new doors just because they are so easily acquired from XJs. just need a nice one with manual everything and it should bolt right in. New fenders are from Summit racing for $43 a pop. But everyone is charging like $160 for shipping! So I will go down to McDonough, GA (1.5 hr drive) and pick em up for free. I can't find a posi 4.10 8.8 in my local pull yards, some dingus keep pulling the carriers out!! The D35 might get a Lincoln locker lol Monday will get some 14ga sheet metal for the floors, they arnt too bad, maybe biggest patch is 2"x4" or so. As far as the engine goes, need to find someone to pie cut me some intercooler piping for my custom turbo. Then I can donate the old diesel from my YJ to this fella.

Thats perfect. The housings are easily 3d printable or molded if someone wished. The lenses would be the most important as you would never get them 100% with other methods.

Someone could even just start doing their own molding lol

IMHO, the best way to do this would be to make a sheet metal overlay that screws into the factory locations then house the JL/JT tailight in the sheet metal, literally what you did but instead of sacrificing the tail light you would have a nice looking, secure mount. Even something like this that just use standard push in lights would be nice:

So Rustys does not give out their spring rates which is kind of annoying to compare with other companies. However, like ghetdjc320 just mentioned in his post, I would try to get one of the more premium brands for everything else. The only thing I would get from Rustys is their rear leaf springs. In my experience, I have recommended OME and Rubicon Express and never heard any complaints. I would go with what your budget and driving style suits you better. If it were me I would do OME HD front coils with a spacer once you get the rear leafs in. Note that you should NOT order spacers until you get the rear leafs installed and jack up the front by the frame to match, that way you can set the front where you want it using poly spacers. OME would give you the best Daily driver riding quality IMO, and I would get Bilstein shocks to match. Just my 2c, but the Rustys kit does look complete. But uh Dzimm, where are these 97+ MJs you speak of and where can I get one

Pretty sure from what I have heard the RC kit for the MJ is just as bad as the other kits they offer. I would suggest getting new leaf packs that are correctly arched than stuffing some stiff add-a-leaf and all in there. Look up Rustys on google and find their 4.5" springs. Then just do a XJ 4.5" Rubicon express kit for an XJ. Figure doing it this way would be around the same price but much better ride quality. Also, def do an adjustable track bar. Funny enough, the geniuses at RC swear that their 6" lift doesnt need it LOL. The guy said "You can use the stock track bar for any of our lifts".

Dude, this was an awesome idea. They really snap right in!!! Firstly. These are all the common VWs you can get these out of, they are the rear passenger ones: 1999-2010 Beetles 1998-2006 Golf 1997-2005 Passat The way I am going to approach this, is to buy the LED versions (Knockoffs) and paint-match them. Here is a link to it, if the link is broken in future just search "3B0947291 Dome light LED" I will be going this route and will update with photos once its done!

88 Jeep Comanche Pioneer LWB.

Dakotas with the 6 cyl and the 318. both had AX15s 2wd and 4wd but in my experience most of the 318s came with the 3500.

Half those morons print with the wrong materials and use horrible printers that don't print consistently. I think those lights would look fantastic if they were mounted directly in fabricated sheet metal brackets instead of within the original plastic lights. Just like the JTs.

I use a 3 jaw pilot bearing puller. That bearing is very annoying to deal with.

Edits made.

I am offering services relating to transfercase maintenence, parts & information. Should you need to know anything about or need something answered I can help. I am not a shop or anything, but I have successfully built, rebuilt and repaired many 231s. If anyone needs help, shoot me a PM, the least I can do is try to point ya in the right direction! Qualifications: 1x Built custom case using a combination of 3 different transfercases to build a nearly unbreakable jeep transfercase. (6k on my YJ no issues) 4x Repairs, meaning seal changes, pump replacement, chain checking & replacment, etc. 3x complete rebuilds, top to toe (minus gears) I still have a drill driven output shaft I can use to run a basic NVH test to make sure its within spec. (perks of working with a NVH engineer lol) 7x case repairs, front/back half, tail cone etc. Costs: Full rebuild (Bearings, seals, chain & pump): $150 labour + parts. Single parts: $ |Varies based on whats needed|, what transfercase etc. SYE install $50: You provide parts, I preform the labor. Takes no more than 30 mins to install. Diagnostics: $ Free to $10 , My NVH testing is an amplitude track based on a known, good rebuilt 231. A full NVH test requires a multi-million dollar testing station. To be honest, a mechanics stethescope would tell the basics, or a good ear. If you just have general questions shoot me a PM or leave a response, that is of no cost. *All service is assumed to be on a unmolested, unmixed 231J (Jeep) series transfercase, I will NOT work on mixed or other transfercases as there is too much risk. Shipping of these cases is around $100-150 itself, fastenal shipping is the cheapest method. Local members to Georgia or passing by zip code 30542 can simply drop it off and pick up same or next day. Requesting Quotes or Information: Use the following format: Year, Make and Model of Vehicle case is from & the drivetrain in front of it. Photo of Red Identification tag (Parts or service), I will not provide information without the Identificiation tag. (Red tag above fill plugs) After that information, please ask your inquiry. Example: 1995 Jeep Wrangler YJ 4.0l HO and AX15 Quote for full rebuild. || My transfercase is making a weird noise. || My transfercase is in two pieces.

Looks awesome, Love the export spec YJs/MJs!

Awesome information, I wonder if I can find that PQ9 paint. I assume this is a Base or Custom trim? I would love to restore it to look somewhat original. Its uh gonna be kinda awkward taking it to the dealer for that recall lol (Rolling shell right now, engine was sold). I will have to go when the diesel is in it haha! Thank you sir!

Year/Make/Model: 1989 Jeep Comanche Drivetrain: 4.0l Renix, AX15 RWD, Beam Front axle, D35 rear 3.07 ratio, SWB/Short bed Build date: Driver door sticker missing Current location: Georgia Status: Diesel conversion + Restoration (Project awaiting work) Interior is dark blue, kind of like a navy blue. PO painted it rattlecan white, was orignally a dark blue and had gold pinstriping. Bench seat was also blue. Current owner: Unfortunetly for my HOA, me.

Forged. Christmas or New years?