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Everything posted by MercManche

  1. Update: I've been pretty busy with other projects at the moment, I just finished up my wrangler engine swap (2nd engine) and with life as it is, I don't think I want to get into another money pit. The other reason is I wanted to replace our Tacoma with this truck, but in order to even fit the OM617 in the engine bay you need at least a 3-4" lift, I looked at other (rear sump) engines aswell but the cost of getting them and machining adapter plates etc etc etc. So... to anyone who may be interested in a basically rust free comanche & parts. Let me know, I would like to sell the truck whole (with 2nd interior included) and additional parts as needed.
  2. My friend used to have a comanche with their 6" kit D44 rear, never had any issues. But I agree, welding new SOA perches is the best way to go about it.
  3. Contact the guys at RRO, super friendly and you will have to do SOA in the rear and front will be selected with OME parts. https://www.rocky-road.com/index2.html Thats about the only "kit" available.
  4. If you are running a full OME kit, run the OME shocks, they are valved for the suspension and would give the best ride quality overall (for non adjustable shocks that is). I have Bilstein aswell, they are not specifically tuned for the springs but I don't notice a difference at all in my YJ. I do not like the bilstiens in the front (5100) as they are a bit stiff compared to the OME shocks I used to have. Fox is what I would go with if you are running anything different from the OME lift (as in not their full kit) I had a long conversation about spring rates and shock selection with ARB a while back, I agree with ghetdjc, I would just go with fox if its in your budget. Having rebuildable tunable shocks is the better choice. I have installed a set of Fox shocks on my friends JK about a year ago and it definitely made a big difference, and he loves it.
  5. Please post some oil pan clearance photos with the 3" lift, looks like an awesome project!
  6. Been a few, ended up selling the other uh lawn ornament recently so now I have a bunch of spare interior parts and space to work again! Got this AX15 for $150 from a 95 Wrangler, yes yes I know about the transferase clocking and all but its not gonna be a problem. Next update will be after sorting all the parts out and working on the floor pans. Will also be locating a hood, some fenders and some axles.
  7. Long way away from putting them in permanently but yes I did install them. And they look fantastic! Just a FYI, those bent tabs are not factory, they are from improper removal. they should all look nice and straight. I am going to 100% disassemble them and I have to paint them blue to match my trim. Follow Epplebee's wiring guide and it'll work just like factory. I would recommend the LED aftermarket ones, wayyyy brighter.
  8. Power to weight for TDIs is incredible. Definitely following, and best of luck! Post some photos of the mounts, super interested in what you go with.
  9. Cheap is relative. But in terms of value its not beat up or anything. He says it runs and drives. Might go take a look myself ;)
  10. https://nwga.craigslist.org/pts/d/chatsworth-jeep-comanche/7263213379.html
  11. Why not do a 606 or TDI swap? You have the 90s Jeep Cherokees with the VM 2.5 why not just swap that entire drivetrain over? They are very good engines as well and should bolt in relatively easily.
  12. Lol, I buy it from my local exhaust guy, very reasonable. anywhere along the underside you might see a 3" pipe not clear?
  13. Gotcha, it sounds amazing and lets the engine breathe so much better. Also turbo back is great. I was wondering because I would love to do the same on my comanche.
  14. 10-4 Good buddy. Hard to find (Unique) interior or common as grey interiors?
  15. What size pipe is that? 2.5"? I would like to do a 3" straight back with V-bands like in my YJ.
  16. Let me know if you still need that bushing made, I have some extra ones lying around, cheaper to by boxes of 5 than a single piece. I bored mine to 3/4" but I could also do it for the 19/32" shaft. Doing the same swap in mine, curious to see how you overcome the steering & track bar issue.
  17. Pete, those bits are a real hassle, used em before tried em again, you gotta be super gentle and take your time lol I drill pilot holes for the tip so the cutter doesnt walk everywhere. If I had the patience I would use them but I prefer my method alot better New fender is in place, got dark before I could finish but its nice and square. Also picked up the 14ga sheet metal so the floor repairs are next. Welding in the dark with only the glow of molten steel is not ideal but no porosity or separation. Really need to get a TIG setup down the road. Stick/MIG are getting boring lol.
  18. Awwww bless your heart, if it makes you feel better, since posting that and my listing I have already sold almost all of my parts. So once again, I don't really care about your feelings about how I ensure that people are getting the right parts the first time. No need to cry about it for a paragraph . Perhaps if you don't want to conduct business with me / engage with me, stop replying to & following my threads and walk away. You don't want the bolts thats fine, best of luck bud!
  19. Ha, should I bring back some VM2.5s for everyone?
  20. Its worth a shot, I can get em in the UK but I will only be going late this year if the whole pandemic bs stops. Yea I don't care for the boost gauge one bit, I want it because it would make the rest of the gauges a breeze. Maybe its hard to understand but trying to get signals from a diesel engine that only needs 1 wire to run is not as easy as it seems lol. Having a cluster that is set up for a diesel with similar rev ranges and all just makes it easier and is worth the $100-200 to me in place of buying and adapting like 6 different gauges and fabricating pods/panelling for them etc.
  21. Diesel fuel gauge, tachometer, coolant temp range, etc.
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