Rad_Comanche

I realize now that the way I worded my post sounds like I was trying to do what you describe. However, I am not trying to assign value to each leak, rather I am listing my findings of what needs to be done, and any observations I made after my smoke test. I will fix every leak, but my main concern in this post is whether my entire throttle body is trash or not, hence my questions about what that port inside is, and the piece it seems to run to on the outside. As I mentioned before, my throttle body is an 86 model, so it is not the same as the one pictured above. The dead end ports are used on mine, and I have replaced the rubber boot that goes over those four ports with hose for each one.

So my 86 2.5L has the typical problem of having several vacuum leaks. I have been slowly chasing them down, but today showed me something new. We got a new smoke machine at work, and they let me use it on my truck today. I was excited to finally find my vacuum leaks, but I did not expect everything the smoke revealed. The first one was obvious, the oring that seals the top and bottom of the air intake. I am not concerned with that one just yet, since it is before the fuel is injected. I would love to know if anyone has found an oring/gasket/seal that fits in there though, as I would like to replace it eventually. The second leak looked to be the EGR, I believe it was coming out from under the bladder. I cannot remember if this is supposed to be open by default or not, but I have others I can replace it with. The third one took me by surprise. It looks like there is a leak along the shaft that holds the throttle plate and such on the body. When I looked inside by the plate, I saw there is a gap leading out of the throttle body, which ends at the piece below circled in red. It is hidden behind the throttle mechanism, and I have no idea what it is. Smoke was practically billowing out of this area, and I could not tell if it was the piece circled above, or a leak along the shaft itself. I was prepared to replace the entire throttle body when I got home tonight, but both of my spares are from 87+ trucks, so the vacuum ports are different. Typical one off 86 problems. So my question is, what is that piece above jutting out from the throttle body, and can it leak, or is it just the shaft, and I need to replace the whole thing?

Good advice, I have a lead on an idea now. Decided to take a step back on the cooling system for the weekend and do something else. I had new rubber trim laying around, as well as a pair of vented windows I have been meaning to install. Now was as good a time as any. Removal and install was pretty straightforward. Need to lube the rotating assembly for the window, otherwise it works great. I did not realize right away there is a little button that locks the knob when it closes. Pretty cool. I also removed what is likely the original speaker, since it is essentially dead weight. At least the magnet still works. I will have to do the same to the other door when I get time. Currently debating on actually doing the open cooling system upgrade, since the first radiator does not want to fit. Still undecided.

Hey everyone, got myself a bit of a dilemma here. I was changing out my heater core, which requires removing the evap box. Unfortunately, the shaped foam piece that goes in the hole between the firewall and the box ripped almost in half. Being a 35 year old truck, I cannot imagine there are any of these laying around. Has anyone found a solution for replacing this?

Got the chance to continue working on the truck today. I think it was a lesson in the accuracy of aftermarket parts. The blower motor resistors they sell are not for A/C vehicles I believe; they are missing a pin. While I do not have A/C right now, I would like to to add it back in the future, as the truck came with it. That makes my new one garbage. The OSC radiator I bought also does not fit, due to the design of the brackets that hold pieces on. The bolts holding them on stick out too far and hit the frame rail. Luckily, Crown makes an all metal one designed like the OEM version, and it is a two row. Gonna order that one up when I get a chance. I did manage to get the evap box out today, and the heater core. However, I ended up tearing the foam the heater core and A/C lines go through to the engine bay. I highly doubt anyone makes it anymore, but if anyone knows where to get some, I would love to know. Happy with the progress today, but disappointed that I will not have it running by the end of the weekend. I am patient, but as Eddard Stark said, winter is coming, and I need my truck.

Thanks y'all, the words of encouragement are appreciated. I ordered all the parts I should need on Tuesday to get the cooling system up to par and avoid any further problems. They should be here next week. While I am waiting, I started disassembling the truck in preparation. It went fairly smooth, aside from two studs trying to come out of the evap box. The nuts came off in the end, after the use of vice grips, a few curse words, and the urge to throw something. One part the manual did not make clear was having to remove the dash; the wording could have been better. Luckily, the forums made it more clear. II have had about enough today though, so attempting to pull the dash without breaking it in half is for tomorrow perhaps.

Been a hot minute. Not a huge amount has happened, but I will recap quickly before moving on to current events. Decided to fix my exhaust leak finally. Learned just how involved it is to remove the exhaust manifold. I was somewhat prepared for it, and had a bunch of maintenance parts ready to replace items that needed it. Quite a few things were fixed as a result, including the exhaust manifold itself due to being cracked completely in half, so it was a success overall. Not something I would want to tackle on a regular basis, thought I will have to again at some point. After that, she was not charging the battery anymore. It ended up being some old, corroded wire, but luckily I had the Jeep Cables upgrade kit waiting to be installed. I took the opportunity upgrade to a 100 AMP alternator from Power Master as well. Charges just fine now, and leaves headroom for any future accessories. After fixing another exhaust leak after the manifold, the heater core decided to quit the next day. Luckily, the previous owner used POR15 on the interior, so clean up is relatively easy, aside from the carpet. Papago has been sitting ever since while I ponder parts to buy. The theme seems to be something else breaking when I fix something, which is no surprise when you look at the lack of maintenance. I am figuring out what to replace to prevent future breakdowns from occurring. For cooling, this has lead me to: Heater Core (duh) Blower motor and fan Blower motor resistor Radiator Thermostat High flow thermostat housing Any remaining old coolant hoses This should prevent any further leaks in the future. I have considered upgrading to an open cooling system, but have decided against it for now. I need the truck running for winter, and even in its current state, the stock system has been great so far. Gonna keep it simple and not @#$% around this time. After that, I have drivetrain and brake things to do. The rubber lines need to be replaced, the booster has a leak, and the parking brake does not work. Might as well do pads, rotors, drums, and all associated hardware too. Still debating whether I want to upgrade to the WJ master/booster, or just keep it simple again. The Dana 35 has been clunking while making left turns since I bought it, but I have a spare from my parts truck I can swap in. I know the 35 is made of paper, but free is free, the spare has over 100k fewer miles on it, and I am short on time and money. I can upgrade when I have more of those, and plan it out better. Speaking of free, the Dana 30 from the parts truck is going in eventually, as well as the 4WD AX-5 trans. I have that 242 transfer case sitting in the garage waiting, and having 4x4 this winter, while not necessary, would sure be handy in a pinch. If I get lucky, I can acquire a TrueTrac LSD and install that as well. The main reason I could get one now is that it swaps between different D30 axles, should I acquire a high pinion D30 some day. No need to upgrade the D35 when I plan to replace it with something better. From the research I have done, having a front LSD/locker only is more handy than rear only anyway, if you had to choose. Looking forward to being able to drive this truck again; I really do miss it. I have to store my summer car in the next couple of months, so I need it for winter. It does me no good sitting around. I kind of made a deal with myself to have to have it running and driving by then, or else I have to sell it. Whether I hold to that deal remains to be seen.

That is damn depressing, since it looks to be rust free and pretty much all there, aside from the missing seat of course.

The thing that interested me the most was the hauling and towing capacities. 1500lbs in the bed, and up to 4000lbs towing if configured properly. Compare that to the Comanche ratings, and the lack of a proper bed, and I cannot say I am not a little disappointed. However, I am glad someone is trying to make small trucks again. Trucks feel too big these days.

Getting some real heavy Mad Max vibes off of these.

More photos.

1987 Jeep Comanche (Trim unknown) I will have more pictures tomorrow, here is the listing I purchasedit from for now: https://www.facebook.com/groups/341484192538182/permalink/4467838216569405/ And a photo of the VIN plate: 2.5L / AX-5 / N231? (Will know more tomorrow) / Dana 30 / Dana 35 / Short Bed. Build date: Sticker is worn down and has no information. Here is one photo I have. Current Location: Woodstock, IL Status: Person I bought it from found it in an abandoned storage unit they won in an auction in Des Moines, Iowa. Was told the engine fires up, but does not stay running. No keys either. Notes: Looks like a very basic trim shirt bed. Has a basic cluster, no A/C, but it does have power steering. It is manual and 4wd. It has factory bed rails, and black interior, and the dash has no cracks as far as I can tell. The rockers on one side are shot, the floor has been patched previously, and there are other holes starting to show through the floor. One of the leaf springs is broken, and I do not know how long this was sitting. Current owner: I own it for now. Will be getting parts I need off of it and selling what I do not to others. Unless someone deems this worthy of restoration, it will likely go to the scrap yard when I am done with it.

How is progress coming along on this? I have an A/C one I would love to have refurbished and sent back, as I would like to keep the original. No rush, since I do not actually have working A/C right now, and wintet is done for now.

Have you made any progress on this? I was removing my door panel today to replace my weather stripping, and my driver side is warped, ripped, does not hold all the trip clips.

I have been doing a lot of thinking about my build, and wanted some feedback on my current drivetrain plans. I will start from the front and go back. Engine: I would like the build my 2.5L. The plan would be a stroker kit, cam, lifters, springs, porting, etc. All of it can be had for a reasonable price, and would yield 4.0 power and torque from the 2.5. Another Comanche owner has done this exact build here: https://m.facebook.com/groups/1402616813111625/permalink/5363638673676066/ Front Axle: HP Dana 30. Nothing special, but I would like a Detroit TrueTrac limited slip in it. OR. I saw there is an IFS Dana 30 as well. I could be really funky and try to make an independent front suspension Comanche. Not sure if that is possible though. Transmission: Not sure. The AX-5 is the easiest choice, as it bolts straight to the 2.5, and the 21 spline output shaft would match the transfer case I plan to use. Downside is that the AX-5 is not known for strength, so how long it would last behind a hopped up 2.5 is unknown. Transfer Case: I have a 21 spline NP-242 I picked up from Pete M (Thank you again!) that is a 21 spline version, so it matches up perfectly to an AX-5. Rear Axle: Undecided. The stock Dana 35 will have to go, but I do not know what to replace it with. Dana 44, Dana 35 Super, maybe a Mopar 8.25, etc. Many options. This would also have a Detroit TrueTrac limited slip in it. My goals for the truck are a daily driver that can handle all weather conditions I throw at it. I do not plan to go rock crawling or throw big tires on it, but I would like it to be a capable bad weather/terrain vehicle that can haul what I need in the bed or tow, within of reason of course. I am also not looking to lift this truck. If anything, maybe lower it an inch or two, something very mild, like XJ shackles in the rear or something. This truck is pretty much at the perfect height for me to slide in and out of already. I want to keep the 2.5, but give it more usable power and torque. The stroker kit and other pieces can help with that. The possibility of boost in the future is there too, but the transmission would hold it back if the AX-5 stays. Speaking of the transmission, finding one that bolts up to the 2.5 is tough. I was looking for GM units, but I am not having any luck so far without some modification. I could always retain the AX-5, but as stated, it is not know for holding up to abuse. I suppose I could find a way to strengthen it, but that could cost more than building the engine, iif even possible. The other option would be finding an AX-15 from a Dakota with the right pattern for my engine, but that could take a long time, and the spline count changes from 21 to 23, making it incompatible with my 21 spline 242. I am not familiar with how interchangeable splines, shafts, and gears are with transmissions and transfer cases, so I am not sure how doable that would be if I wanted to change the spline count. Seems like it would be easier to source a 23 spline 242. If anyone has an article or video I can review, I would love to do some learning on the subject. As for the rear axle, I plan to install metric ton springs in the rear to make my truck more capable of hauling, hence the need for a better axle. What axle that might be is unknown at the moment, aside from a few options listed above. Another thing I heard about was asymmetrical leaf springs, which was a Mopar thing. Supposedly they can improve handling, but I do not know how this would affect hauling capacity in the bed, or if it is even possible or wanted. As you can see, I have a LOT of ideas, but nothing set in stone yet. I appreciate any input from more knowledgeable folks.

That answers that question! It is backwards and upside down, but this confirms I have a 16 gallon tank, original to my truck at that. Following for possible modifications for that vent tube...

Where is that plate ID you mentioned located on the tank? I was actually just looking at my 86 to see if it was a 16 or 23.5, since my sending unit is wonky. Good to know the 86 filler is also a different shape too. Excellent research on both the tank and send units!

There are more in the engine bay to eliminate, so more wiring practice for me in the future. Papago and I did a lot of driving today. We went to Milwaukee to pick up a 2.5 from an 87 that was sitting in an 86 chassis. The owner was a cool dude; he threw in a bunch of new gaskets, a badge for the tailgate, and showed me how to remove the tailgate in about five seconds. Having a truck sure is handy for hauling things, like a spare engine and parts for said truck! Unfortunately, my power steering pump capped out just before I got there. Luckily, this engine has one that is good, hopefully. It also has an A/C delete bracket and pulley I need. My A/C system is missing half the components, and I discovered this while changing plugs and wires yesterday. So while I source that bracket and figure out new A/C components, I will use the pulley from the spare motor instead. Getting the engine out of the bed was fun too. The guy I bought it from had a huge five ton warehouse crane to move it. I had this to work with. Thanks to some borrowed equipment and guidance, I got the job done. Now I can continue the work on the actual truck.

Good to know. I have been looking into the WJ brake master upgrade, so this makes it that much easier to justify. Another quick update. I was disgusted with not getting anything to work today, so I decided 2 A.M. was a great time to replacemy oil pressure sensor and get my gauge working. It was not so simple of course. Removing and installing the sensor was easy actually; it was not stuck at all, probably due to oil leaking from the valve cover. Reconnect everything though, gauge is still dead. I followed the ground wire through the harness and find it disconnected, from what I did not know, until I saw another wire dangling in a mess of others, all connected with this little spice of some kind. Obviously someone has been in here doing some kind of @#$%ery; I had no time for this bull$#!&. I pulled the wire out, used one of my non-insulated butt splices, crimped the wires together, slid some marine heatshrink over it, and used a lighter to finish the job. Happy to say I have a working oil pressure gauge again. At least I got SOMETHING working today. Baby steps.

Spent the last few weeks researching some of the problems with my truck, how to fix them, and parts I may need. Made a big RockAuto order, and a Team Cherokee one for good measure, and waited for it all to arrive. I have not gotten around to getting photos of it all, but one of my problems has been high idle when warm (between 1500 and 2000 RPM), and trouble idling on cold start unless I give it a little gas for about ten seconds. Mileage has naturally suffered a little as well, with less than 20 MPG unless it is straight highway miles. I know there is a vacuum leak, after covering the intake and the engine still ran. I suspect a leak around the exhaust/intake manifold, and I have the gasket for it. Not looking forward to all the trouble that involves, like draining the coolant again, but it will have get done. There is also one in the brake booster, or the check valve, but I am not sure that one affects idle unless the brake is applied. I also have a new MAP, TPS, crankshaft, and oxygen sensor, and well as new plugs and wires, among other things. With the unknown history of this truck, I have no idea how old some of the parts under the hood are, so they probably need to be changed out. I installed the MAP on Thursday to test the difference on the drive to and from work. Initial results were great; Papago actually idled on cold start without giving her any gas. However, now the idle at proper temps likes to lope, and it is dumping fuel into the engine, all classic signs of a vacuum leak. All attempts to find one by spraying areas and vacuum lines have given me zero results though, even around the intake/exhaust gasket. Replacing TPS, plugs, and wires did nothing, and she was actually misfiring on cold start today. I hooked the old one back up and that that seems to work for the time being. Hopefully I can get that gasket and oxygen sensor done this weekend and get some results. I feel like only I could have an engine running worse by installing a new MAP sensor, but that is vacuum leaks for you. The new one is even an ACDelco part, although the old one is a branded GM part. One more thing. Am I crazy, or is this no IACV on the 86, or the 2.5 in general for that matter? Seems like it was an MPI thing only, but maybe I am not looking for the right term in the service manual. More to come soon. There is a lot of overdue maintenance to complete on this truck before I can get into the fun stuff.

While I was waiting for parts to put the steering column back together, curiosity led me to looking at a few other things that needed fixing. The trip meter in my cluster was not working, and the reset bar felt like it was jammed as well. So I found a handy article for disassembly and took it apart. What I learned is that the springs in the gears have a bend in them that prevents them from turning both ways freely. They can wear out over time, and need to be bent back into place I spent a long time messing with them, but unfortunately the problem was not fixed. The best I can tell, the black gear (to the right of the tan one in the first photo) had a plastic piece snap off at some point that connected it to the odometer and the rest of the mechanism. Without that piece, it spins freely, without turning the numbers for the trip meter. I am not sure why the reset bar jams up, but it is probably related to this. I ended up reassembling it and putting everything back together for now. I can find a used trip meter that works and install that one easily enough, while keeping everything else. I also found a few old labels inside the cluster itself, identifying it as a four cylinder version. Not sure what all the other numbers are, but still cool! One last note. I use a speedometer app on my phone is lieu of my bouncy, inaccurate speedometer. Despite the above, I found the odometer actually records the proper distance driven. I half expected it to mirror the speedometer, but I am pleasantly surprised. More updates on smaller things tomorrow.

Seems like I need it to snow to get me to post updates, lol. We have had some good weather here since my last one, which allowed me to get the steering column put back together and actually drive Papago on a daily basis. I only have a couple photos, since I was focused on getting everything back together and working properly. I had to spend a while getting the rod that activates the high beam switch to actually work from the stalk. After that, it was a relatively smooth reassembly; I had to fix the way the wires sit for the washer switch, as they were interfering with the turn signal clicking left. Love me some new parts! Been driving her daily for about two weeks now. The difference with these lights is absolutely amazing, especially the high beam output. I still need to aim them a bit, but you can tell they are a quality product. The best headlights I have of the three vehicles I own are on the oldest vehicle. I checked the Wagoneer fogs out, but alas, no harness. I was told they were not hooked up, but did not know the extent. At least I know what kind of plug they have, not sure of it is the same as factory Comanche/Cherokee fogs though. Not sure if I will keep these or get something else, but I will have fog lights still. I also plan to mount them further out on the bumper; there are already holes with rubber stoppers for just that. Now that the headlights are done, I will have some smaller updates, hopefully more frequently. Some new parts, some things I have discovered, etc. I am constantly having ideas, so this will be a way to get them out there and on paper, so to speak. For now, here are a couple of photos post headlight install. I love seeing this truck whenever I come out to a parking lot.

I have a lot of different topics to post about since last time, but I will put them in later posts to keep them smaller. For now, we shall stay on track with the headlights. Over the weekend I managed to finish disassembling my steering column and remove the wiper and turn signal switches. I was convinced the column shroud was on backwards due to a piece that looks out of place. You can see it jutting out around the five o'clock position from the lock cylinder hole. Now I am not sure, and have no idea why it is there. Either way, someone had broken the shroud a bit before, and I managed not to do any more damage to it I was also wrong in my last post, about the toggle in the column for the high beams, and the bolt for the lock cylinder being there. The toggle seems to work fine, the rod and switch were out of adjustment. The torx screw is either the original, or was a replacement for a lost one. There were three screws holding the electrical goodies in, and the torx was the odd man out, so I confused it at first. Speaking of the switch, I did not know the high beam switch was actually called a "dimmer switch." Kind of misleading to me, but oh well. When I finally figured what and where it was, I tested it by hand. I had no headlights at all now, lows or highs. I tried connecting a couple of things I took apart just to be sure, but nothing changed. I ordered up a new dimmer, turn signal, and wiper switch for good measure. I figure these parts are either original or really old already, and I have the wheel and column apart now, so might as well. The dimmer switch got here last night, and the turn signal switch the night before. I went outside after work to test the headlights. So nice to finally have working headlights. This will allow me to drive my truck at night without getting a ticket or pissing people off. Once I get it back together that is. Maybe I will see if the wiring is there to hook up those Wagoneer fog lights too. Still need a switch for that though. I will show you what else I got into later.

If I was not already traveling down there at the end of July, I would be down. I go down there every year to meet up with other car friends and drive Dragon/Cherohala and other roads for a week. Not to mention checking out other parts of the mountains, hanging out, all kinds of good fun. Now I have to tackle Dragon in the Comanche some day.

Following, I have a similar problem. My new high beam switch gets here tomorrow. I had high beams that would not turn off, but when I finally figured out where the switch was, neither lows or highs were working. Probably something to do with me tearing into the column. Hopefully we can find a solution for both our trucks.