LarryH88bt

I tried them all since I didn't know which one was the fuel pump.

Tried a new relay in each slot and still no fuel pump. Going to try jumper-ing it next.

Well, I need to take it out anyway to solder in a new ground for the gauge. If it works on the jumpers then it's gotta be the relay or harness. I may have a spare 5 point relay lying around, could I plug that it or is the relay specific?

Replaced my EGR, started it a couple times to test and make sure the vacuum hoses were right, now I have no fuel pump. I replaced the tail light ground, cleaned the fuel pump relay, still don't hear the pump prime when I turn the key to 'on'. One of those "it worked two minutes ago now it doesn't". :hmm: The ground on the assembly is quite ugly but that's for the gauge, right? If I do take the pump out, can I bench test it with the battery and some jumpers?

Is it necessary to change out the front prop valve to the XJ/ZJ? Or can the original MJ stay in place?

Most of these lines are new, only a few years old, had a jeep specialist fix it up. After a few days of thinking I may just try the bleed procedure for the height valve and see what happens. Can't decide now.

My brakes need to be bled but I do not want to do the height valve process. I never got it right so I want to bypass it. I do have the procedure but... The first pic has the hard line going out to the left then down to the height valve. That will be plugged in the engine bay, at least I think that's the one on the bottom of the prop valve at the master cylinder, I didn't trace it. The second pic has the A B C couplings. Does box B need a new coupling/fitting or can I simply plug the hard line side from the height valve? It's a pretty easy bypass, one line into B then to A then down to C on the axle to both drums. I want to leave everything in place just because.

I've wanted a pipe out the driver side for a while now. What I was planning on doing is just a dual outlet muffler and flexy pipe. Seems the easiest route. And thankfully it's old enough to be emissions exempt so no more cat converter :D

I pulled my tank to fix a leak at the fuel pump assembly and now my gauge is stuck at past full with 3 gallons of gasoline. It moved ever so slightly when I moved the truck to the other driveway. Other than that it stays put. It wasn't working before I pulled the tank either, just stuck at full but it would move with the key on and then swing back to full when running. I did some searching of the board and tried pulling the ground to see if anything changed and nothing did. Pumps gas fine. The assembly does have a nice sheen of rust. Not that I'll do it anytime soon but could I possibly grind the assembly to clean metal and solder on a new ground? (out of the gas tank of course :thumbsup: ) Don't feel like searching the hills for a donor assembly or spending money on an aftermarket gauge or a whole new tank and pump.

Knowing is half the battle, thanks :thumbsup: Will probably need a new lock ring gasket too. Rockauto has one for 4 bucks. Anyone know of a gasoline proof sealant or epoxy?

My junk is leaking fuel from the wires going into the fuel pump. Fuel pump works fine, I just need someway to seal the rubber terminal boot or get a new 'whatever' (I don't what its called, the circle thingy with the metal tubes and the wire connector holding the pump in the tank). I don't see anything on the Rockauto catalog, just pumps, o-rings, and lock rings. Maybe this has something to do with my gauge not working.

I've got this problem on my driver side :clapping: It's big enough for large snow flakes to fall in too. I wrapped some plastic in duct tape and then taped that tube to the top of the door but it only lasted a couple days worth of rain before it started leaking again. I need new doors anyway and I have no interior, so whatever :dunno:

I'd have to fill the tank full because I don't know what's in there to begin with :dunno: And with gas so expensive and me not driving it often, I don't really want to do that. And, if I ever had the thing off road we all know that a few gallons could easily be spent in a few miles.

Well fooey. My fuel gauge stopped working and with all these numbers being thrown around I have no idea what mine gets. 4.0 auto but its bored .010 with pistons and an HO camshaft :dunno: I thought 15 would be safe, maybe I should downgrade to 12.

Holy mackerel :eek: Yeah, ignore the MJ. Take the 50 year old truck that is in significantly better shape.

Ok cool. It's staying stock height for now. Maybe in the future I'll swap out for an XJ valve and just keep the rears adjusted to where they don't lock. Another question would be disc brakes in the back, any effect on the valve with those? I know rear discs already use a lot less pressure than the fronts, so maybe there's no need for the height valve with disc.

Looking to upgrade my MC and Booster to a later model this summer, what, if any, is the effect on the height sensing valve in the rear?

Mine hisses and the brakes are dreadful. I want my 5000lbs tow capacity back so I'll be doing the upgrade this summer as well.

If you're j-bolts or j-bolt hangers ever break, here's my fix. Did this with the bed off. Cut out the hangers, drilled 1/2" holes through the bed and dropped in 8" 3/8 carriage bolts. Definitely put a piece of iron in between the bolt heads and the bed floor. Secured the carriage bolts snug against the bed with a nut so they wouldn't flop around and then just a flat washer and lock washer to hold the strap nut in place.

Got it back on its feet. New gas tank mounts. Had to chop out the j-bolt hangers. My part is done. The rest of the frame will be fixed by a shop.

I did something similar ^^^^^^. Welded in a couple plates to box in the frame rail. Mine's ugly so no pics. :D

Gonna hijack the thread for a moment. My gauge goes way past full and I've only got 3 gallons of fuel. I know about the ground at the tail lights which I reconnected with a fresh wire and bolt but the gauge still isn't cooperating. Any ideas? Worked fine before I pulled my tank out. If I can find the relay for the pump under the hood or the origin of the harness maybe I can reground it somewhere closer to the power.

Sounds reasonable. But if it is an easy job, I may just save myself the trouble and have the shop do the axle when I bring it in to have the frame welded. Bout $60 in parts for 2 bearings and 2 seals and probably not more than 1 hour labor for a pro to do it all; $125-135 total or $100 and a lot of running around to do it myself. :hmm:

Ok. Can anyone give me a ballpark cost of having a machine shop press in new bearings and seals?

This may be tricky with the gas tank still in place but I cut out the j-bolt hangers and dropped 8" carriage bolts through the floor of the bed. Used a flat piece of steel between the bed and the bolt heads so there is little chance of the bolts shearing through the bed. Bolted my setup in just this morning. Didn't take any pics yet though. I probably should have used galvanized but I went with zinc plated. Didn't feel like paying $1.30 for the galvanized bolts :yes: