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LarryH88bt

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Everything posted by LarryH88bt

  1. LarryH88bt
    I've got some rock auto options for a new TPS. I wanted to ask if anyone has experience with the different kinds. 4.0 renix auto Airtex, most expensive $50 http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=937404&cc=1181584 Standard motor products, fancier, $40 http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=41499&cc=1181584 Standard motor products, base, $30 http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=951161&cc=1181584 The standard almost implies that it doesn't need to be adjusted, not sure I believe that.
  2. LarryH88bt
    Turned out to be the starter motor. The plunger from the solenoid wasn't on the fork correctly so the gear moved freely. It would reconnect with the flywheel after starting.
  3. LarryH88bt
    Took the starter out, the gear moved fine, I even tried it with washers under the bolts to bring it out a tad further. That wasn't it. I took the flexplate cover off and ran it, rattle still there. I tried a large magnet on the oil pan to hold the loose nut/bolt. Rattle persisted.
  4. LarryH88bt
    Another thing I forgot to mention is the starter. I took it off and cleaned it and re-greased it a few months ago with a new alternator. Could that somehow be hooking up to the flexplate? I'll take a closer look at the belt tensioner but I doubt it.
  5. LarryH88bt
    Don't have one.
  6. LarryH88bt
    http://youtu.be/wt0Yabg3O0U Sat for half a year, ran it a few times over that period. Now I've got this metal marble rattle coming from the rear of the engine. I just tightened the flexplate bolts, no cracks either. Banged around the exhaust, it's tight as can be. It's a 4.0L auto. Was rebuilt in 2004 by previous owner. I've always run synthetic oil and it doesn't leak. Oil in both engine and trans are full.
  7. LarryH88bt
    Got through the connections. Most of them were clean. Did the grounds including the stuff behind the dip stick. Haven't found the time for the tests yet. I'll probably start with just a general tune up and the CPS adjustments.
  8. LarryH88bt
    Yeah, this one http://comancheclub.com/topic/36382-cruisers-renix-tips/
  9. LarryH88bt
    Ok, I did replace and clean alot of grounds and connectors already but I guess I can do it again. I'm also going to do the instrument panel refresh. It's an automatic.
  10. LarryH88bt
    Well I'd like to know why it stalled, why it wouldn't restart, and then why it would restart without actually fixing anything. :???:
  11. LarryH88bt
    My dad had the truck at the farm and hit a couple bumps, stalled, and would not restart. Had it towed home, I poked around, jiggled a few wires, would not start. Jiggled a few more wires and it started fine... I drove it around the yard a bit hitting bumps and I could not stall it. I let it run and tapped the ecm and a bunch of other relays, sensors, and harnesses. The fuel gauge doesn't work but every now and then it will start moving. I've double and triple checked the ground wires for it. Fresh and clean at the rear tail light and then another closer to the sending unit. But I have a feeling its the actual sending unit or whatever that thing is that holds the pump in place. The speedo has gone weird after this incident, it will sink further down at idle or going reverse but reads upwards fine. I need some more heads.
  12. LarryH88bt
    I got the TPS close as I could which must mean it's no good. The A-B reference was reading 10, the best I could get the B-C was 1.3. It runs okay, I don't really want to throw money in to it right now.
  13. LarryH88bt
    So that's why the TPS has slotted bolt holes :eek: . I'm sure it is not adjusted correctly. Not sure what you mean by a dead spot. I'm out of town for the next 10 days so it will have to wait. Thanks for the response.
  14. LarryH88bt
    Manifold and valve cover bolts were a tiny bit loose but I did indeed put the TPS back in wrong. So that was the problem. However.... there is still a slight hesitation before the revs pick up but it doesn't stall out. Any ideas on that?
  15. LarryH88bt
    Intake manifold bolts, have not tried that yet. Well I guess I shouldn't have said cleaned the TPS since it doesn't come apart I just cleaned the connectors. The lever goes on top.
  16. LarryH88bt
    88 4.0, auto. I tried some things to get my fuel gauge to work, mostly playing with ground wires and cleaning the big c101 connector above the brake master cylinder, and the engine started idling high, about 2k plus. I let it sit a few hours, came back and cleaned out the throttle body that wasn't dirty, shot some carb cleaner into the vacuum lines, removed and cleaned the TPS and idle switch. idles a little rough but it always has, Still stalls when I press the throttle. It doesn't die completely but it's damn close before it catches up and revs. When it was idling high it was doing the exact same thing it did when I ran it with the EGR disconnected and the port open. It sounded the same, there was an audible sucking sound from the engine bay. I have to suspect the EGR again. If I take off the intake and just have the throttle body open and I pull on the throttle cable, I can hear the EGR briefly, and then the revs pick up. EGR or something different?
  17. LarryH88bt
    Assembly needed a new ground. I drilled a hole, stuck in a bolt and a new ground connector. Gobbed it with gas proof rtv and an o-ring. I was hoping this would fix the gauge too but it didn't. It must be the float or something completely different.
  18. LarryH88bt
    Removed the height valve = problem solved. It was just dead weight. Only took a couple hours. I did still have problems with the vacuum bleeder, it was still pulling a lot of air, it seemed to have a good seal but apparently it did not. When I did it the old fashioned way with a bottle and pumping the pedal, it worked flawlessly. Now the truck can stop itself in low range! :clapping: Big difference. Must be really sweet with the late model booster upgrade.
  19. LarryH88bt
    Tried to bleed my brakes today, did the procedure for the height valve, and the rears are mostly air. I'm using a vacuum pump bleeder. I went through a small bottle of fluid when doing the rears so where is the air coming from? Does this mean the height valve is busted? Fronts are golden.
  20. LarryH88bt
    Did that lift include new upper and lower control arms?
  21. LarryH88bt
    Now that you mention it, I can never get mine to tighten just right. It's either too much or too little. And ever since I broke the cable at the pedal assembly, I'm afraid to tighten it more and risk popping the cap off the cable again if I ever need an emergency stop. And adjusting the shoes doesn't help much.
  22. LarryH88bt
    Good enough, I'll just get a bunch. Thanks.
  23. LarryH88bt
    Anyone know the size of the rear dana 44 bleeder screws?
  24. LarryH88bt
    I've got a similar problem with my single outlet flowmaster. I don't know what model it is since the previous owner set this up. No cat converter either and it's 2 1/4 all the way (I think). With a .010 bore, High Output 4.0L cam, and forged piston it sounds awesome at idle, very eight-ish but at 2000 and on the highway it sounds like a vacuum cleaner, bleeding ears style. I've been wanting to try some dual outlets or other mufflers and flex pipes I just don't have the time or money to mess around at the moment.
  25. LarryH88bt
    Did not try that but the gauge lights comes on and i can hear other clicky things under the hood. It turns over and fires with starting fluid. The ground is for the pump. Ah. So when I try to jumper this thing I need two grounds? One in the harness and one on the assembly?
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