Incommando

really? I got xj leafs no issue in mine. MJ leafs are 57" & XJ's are 52". Didn't you post about just buying your MJ and the lift being all jacked around on it? If XJ leafs bolt-on I would say so.... :eek:

http://www.cherokeetalk.com/forum/f64/leaf-spring-compatability-chart-9592/

This is how I do it, as well. But I understand if you have to have it pre-welded and ready to go at tear down. Been there done that. If you are running the factory style rear drive shaft then measure the angle of the yoke on the output. Match that angle on the pinion output of the axle. That is the correct geometry if you are not running a CV/double cardon joint. http://www.4xshaft.com/driveline101.asp

D-bag is still checking in. DandoMember Since 28 Jan 2014 OFFLINE Last Active Yesterday, 12:30 PM

Dual diaphragm XJ booster and no rear valve equals amazing brakes! Just did it to mine.

Playing these games is great when it works...but the casinos are full of people who believe that gambling works for them while in reality no matter how well they think they are doing it is the house the wins.

Watched it live back in the day. It was funny as heck.

Yeah there is a typo or a disconnect somewhere. The OP is working on a rear axle from the pics and the procedure described is said to be for a D30 not a D35 ( what it looks like to my old tired eyes) or D44 ( the other factory option.) They might all be the same ( I don't know) but some clarification might be needed before anyone goes any further.

I hope that I am never so old that halogen sealed beams are not adequate... 8) I don't know how we managed to drive prior to halogens even! :jump:

Yep. The low-deck 289/302 are especially suited for that. The rear dizzy is a killer in some swaps but you know...everyone else does a SBC so might as well join the crowd. :doh: Buick V8's are also relatively lightweight and have a front dizzy.

Thanks. In yet another case of even a blind squirrel finding a nut I accidentally got it right.

He is into Willys Jeeps, not the MJ. Most likely not the same fellow. But boy would I be ashamed if my uncle, cousin, brother, aunt, uncle, mom & dad started getting letters about what a POS I was...but I guess if you were capable of shame you wouldn't be ripping people off in the first place. I posted his info on a few boards that center on the area he lives in. Maybe someone will know him. If nothing else they know to avoid him. A great thing about naming such people is that if anyone every does a name search or a screen name search in google or bing they may get a little warning about his methods.

Same first and last names & into jeeps but different middle name and possibly not an age match. Relative? (Moderator edit)

He read this: Dando Member Since 28 Jan 2014 OFFLINE Last Active Today, 10:51 AM Community Stats GroupMembers Active Posts106 Profile Views0 Member TitleComanche Fan Age28 years old BirthdayMarch 19, 1986 Gender Male LocationNorthfield, OH It looks like he used his actual DOB and set if for the public to see. Man with a full name, DOB, and even a former address all sorts of mischief can be arranged by those so inclined. Wouldn't a refund or sending the part be easier Danny?

One says parallel and one says perpendicular. Auugh. If a certain position binds at the axle end I don't understand why it wouldn't also bind at the frame end. I can see were perpendicular would allow the bushings to rotate as an axle side dropped or raised. I ran mine parallel to mimic the factory lower shock mounting that I replaced & the retained upper mount. However the XJ mounts are perpendicular and 90* from the MJ's factory mounts.Oh well. They are on there now.

This is the place for questions. This one I cannot answer. Knowing the engine/year/etc... will help you get an answer from someone who does. I do know that some computer controlled engines will not fire until there is oil pressure being read.

Just a quick comparo: 1985 K20/K30 350/5.7L: 160 horsepower/ 260 #'s TQ with carb vs Renix 242/4.0L: 177 horsepower/225 #'s TQ with fuel injection. Sorry. Not a SBC fan. They were cheap and plentiful and therefore popular. Those are not the criteria I use for choosing dates or engines.... :rotf: If the 231 or 241 is passenger drop it wasn't from a Jeep. There is a gear-shaped tag on the rear of the t-cases that will tell you what they are. If you aren't using that 10 bolt none of your transfer cases will work. You either need to swap axles or buy a T-case. Note the differential location on your D30 versus the front output on those t-cases. Not to be too much of an @$$ but if that isn't obvious then a major swap like this might ought to be reconsidered unless you are farming it out. http://www.chuckschevytruckpages.com/enginespecs.html

A never knew that Jim lived in Connecticut? The source for any of your 241's could not have been a Comanche. They only came with the 231. The XJ had a 242 available but it has an all-wheel drive option. The only time the 241 was used in this series was a few '05-'07 KJ's with the pretty rare 6-speed stick option. The reason this becomes important is getting the correct spline count and input/output lengths for any swap. Although the 208 should be is passenger side drop most Chevy 241's are from the driver's drop IFS era. Any jeep 241/231 would have the front driveshaft output on the driver's side. The differential on the 10-bolt is on the passenger side. Using a D300 sourced from a later CJ is an easier way to match your AX15 to that front axle.. As to the 350: If you want to do it go for it. But know that it is not an inexpensive or quick process. You will also encounter cooling problems. You will spend time and money correcting those. Why not use the effort to fix your current problem instead? Closed systems can certainly cool a 4.0. You could also swap to an open system or upgrade your current one through one of the many posts on here and the XJ forums. 4-bolt mains may aid longevity but do nothing for power. Many many 4.0's hit 300,000 miles. How many 350's do? The longevity winner is the 4.0. Putting the 10-bolt in the front will not be easy. Many swap to leaf springs in front as an easier way to go to heavier axles then adapting the donor front axle to the flexier factory link suspension. The only thing that 10-bolt has over any other 10-bolt is the bigger brakes. It is considered equal to a D44 front, uses the same axle u-joints as a late-model HP D30, and is just 1 step up from the HPD30 on the strength scale. Maybe using a truss (internal or external) on the HP30 along with C-gussets and chromo shafts would be worth looking into versus the 3/4 ton axle swap? Chromo's for the 8.25 are cheap and such a set is used with 35's just fine. While super strong and super cheap to find, the 14 bolt is also super heavy and super low-hanging. The weight of the axle and the dynamic forces it brings into play generally means a chassis failure eventually and yours is apparently already weakened. Choices choices choices.

309 miles away :fs2: Dando is checking in and he needs to do the right thing. Dando Member Since 28 Jan 2014 OFFLINE Last Active Yesterday, 04:26 PM (Moderator edit)

Nice

Drool. The single greatest factor in mileage is the loose nut behind the steering wheel. :) . But no one wants to adjust it. It is kind of like those who say "I would do anything to lose weight.." without adding "...but eating right and excercising."

Just curious as to way they should be parrallel ? The fronts have no idea if they are parallel or not due to their top mount. If the internals of the shock required such clocking shocks would be marked for alignment. So I guess it must be an external factor that comes into play? I chose tabs (linked above ) that do place the shock mounts parallel.

Most research shows no benefit in any vehicle not designed for it or modified. Anecdotal evidence has been presented in this thread that an octane boost will not improve economy or performance over factory specifications but may prevent them from worsening in a specific 4.0 renix MJ. If you want to consider that as conclusive evidence feel free to do so. A more controlled and scientific test that rules out things such as driver input caused by being more aware of MPG while actively engaged in testing as well as many other variables will be needed before I give up regular.

Barnes: twice the beef half the cost. Put these on when I did my SOA https://www.barnes4wd.com/mobile/home.asp#page-46

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