AZRick

Out to the desert for javelina hunting/wheeling. After bumping into the Javelina and not getting off a shot, it was time to do a little wheeling. Nothing serious cause I'm out here all alone with no cell service...

I like the white, mine needs new paint, I don't want to paint it, whole lot of work just to have a mesquite customize it.

Thank you. The louvers are from these guys --> http://www.hoodlouvers.com/?gclid=CPzmtsPV1rsCFdE-MgodfFYA2Q And they are a very nice product.

Springs = RE 5.5 (http://www.nonamestudios.com/experimentalinsanity.com/vehicle/resources/mj-lift.html) LCA = Rubicon Express RE3720, I think they are going to hold up better against AZ's rocks than a stamped arm would. Plus, the ease of adjustability is awesome.

A picture is worth a whole bunch of words ;)

The old trim, even if a day old, gets torn up when removing it. It has to be replaced regardless. I must have screwed up some where, I removed, cleaned, painted and reinstalled my windshield trim. Looks like new.

Sorry, not much on blow by blow details but here are a few pics. The pile accumulating The front diff got 4.56 gears, a lunchbox locker, JCR drag link/tie rod with 1 ton tie rod ends. knuckle reaming 101 Installed a post 95 one piece axle, which necessitated a block off plate on the vac disconnect and relocation of the oil seal. Being as the stock oil seals have a nice bevel to lift and guide the incoming through the oil seal and the replacement seal does not, I built an axle ramp. Not sure if it was needed but what's the fun if you don't do things your way. The rear got an ARB and this is the materials used to build a spreader... Pressing on a axle bearing, about the only thing not replaced were the brakes as there may be some discs in the future. The 231 lost it's slip yoke. Went with the "5.5 MJ lift" replaced the sacked out rear with new stock leafs. Which necessitated disposal of these. To be replaced by these (black wheels suck to photograph) any way 285/75/R16 Added this nice little tool box in the bed. Which I partitioned off and made the right side an electrical/air compressor bay. I ran 4 gage wire to it, built an isolated standoff to connect the compressor and painless harness to. One relay is for the ARB the other two are for the driving lights. The painless wiring harness has one hot battery circuit, it's attached to a switch at the back of the tool box to power a yet to be installed rear flood light. In the cab I installed two "Prime 4X4" switch panels. Pretty much the end of Stage 2, not sure where Stage 3 will take us or when it will get started, the wallet is deflated. I didn't put chromo shafts in, I did put drilled and slotted rotors on with ceramic pads (it stops). New clutch, rebuilt front drive shaft, new rear drive shaft, new ball and U joints and pretty much any small part that was replaceable.

There are tons of aftermarket pitman arms for sale for "lifted" trucks, most are 3.75 to 4.25 inches drop. The one on my truck has 3.25" and yea I know I have to get the drag link and track bar parallel. Just curious more than anything. It had serious bump steer issues but I didn't find anything with any appreciable wear in the steering components on disassembly of the axle.

Just curious, anyone know offhand the amount of drop in a stock pitman arm? Thanks Rick

The bottom spring is from the left side, the right was sitting a bit lower.

Not sure, it started life as a 4'x4'x3/16" steel plate and there were not many scraps left over...

And so it begins...

Nothing like a hijack... The A pillar gauge pod is available from Autometer for about 30 bucks http://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-15210/overview/make/jeep/model/cherokee It's molded to the A pillar, I used EVO gauges. The white is normal, green is with the headlights on. I like them, certainly hard to miss.

Thank you, that was nice. :rotfl2:

I'm out, to much to do and the little beast isn't ready.

I had a 97 2500 Cummins, engine was awesome and after rebuilding the transmission with DTT parts the auto was bullet proof. I now have a 2004.5 3500 with the NV5600, awesome combination and a towing dream, couldn't be better. With that said, DO NOT BUY A 2004.5! I have experience in this area, trust me. The 2004.5 was the first iteration of the 325 hp engine and it has issues. The most common internet rumor, there is not enough ring gap and the rings are to brittle. Anyway mine had broken rings on #4 and #5 pistons, the cost to rebuild, don't even want to go there. :doh:

ME ... PM sent :banana:

Rode for many years, back issues finally booted me from the sport, I do miss it... :( Here is a pic from the last race I rode in.

Its been below a billion degrees in the shop so went ahead and swapped in the dual diaphragm booster, left MJ valve in place, bent up and flared new lines to said MJ distribution block, bled brakes ... no leaks, sweet. Fire up engine, step on brake pedal and there is something sucking under the dash :mad: so much for the bargain booster off craigslist.

Upgrades this weekend - Installed 180 alternator, replaced water pump again (napa pump leaking after 5000 miles), installed led "B" pillar lights. Next weekend it gets the brake booster upgrade.

First, because the factory service manual specifically says NOT to resurface the flywheel. (Which doesn't really answer your question of "Why?"). Second, because every single person I know of who has had a 4.0L flywheel resurfaced has reported problems with the new clutch, and in most of those cases replacing the flywheel cured the problems. Add me to that list

Just my .05 cents worth, I have nothing to gage the effectiveness of the louvers I installed in the hood of little beast. I installed the same louvers in the hood of the 2500 Ram I had, there was a way to gage that. Previous to the louvers the transmission temp pretty much stayed in sync with the engine/oil temp as the truck has an engine oil to transmission fluid heat exchanger. After installing the louvers the transmission temp while on the highway hovered at around 150 degrees. The down side was, the louvers reduced under hood temps enough that the fan clutch wouldn't kick in and the AC didn't do well in stop and go city driving. I'm not so sure the louvers are making the same type of difference on the little beast, the air flow dynamics under the vehicle are completely different with the JCR bumper installed. I think removing the stock bumper and fairings increases the air pressure in the engine compartment. With louvers in the hood in this situation, air is going under the bumper, up through the engine compartment and out the louvers effectively reducing airflow through the radiator at highway speeds. My support for this theory, 110 degrees OAT, engine temp at cruise on the freeway is 220 (digital gage). After exiting the freeway, on the surface streets engine temp hangs around 210 and the AC output temp drops from 40+ to 38 (at which point the compressor cycles) i.e. more air is flowing through the radiator and condenser at lower vehicle speeds. But they look cool :rotf: and should work well when wheeling.

That's a someday project, it keeps getting pushed back by other projects like a little white Comanche that needed to be worked on. Mid travel (12" in front, 14" in the back), Subaru 2.5 married to 091 bus box, should be fun if I ever get around to finishing it.

Chose "Little Beast" as it sets next to the "Big Beast" (3500 Ram, Cummins dually). Picked it up about 4 years ago, its a 91, 4.0, AX-15, 4X4, with 144,000 on the clock. Looked up the VIN and it was an "Islander" package?? It does have a goofy, wave like graphic down both sides. It sat, taunting me for over 3 years, now that I have it to Stage 1, it's becoming an addiction. First to go was the ratty bench and carpet. It was a beautiful sight, there was not one speck of rust on the floor boards. It's good to live in the Southwest :) In went an AC plenum and controls from a XJ, installed new compressor, condenser, hoses and metering valve. Had the alternator rebuilt but its replacement is in shipping, not enough amps to run the AC fan on high and the headlights at the same time. Installed new padding and carpet, radio and amp. Neighbor knocked the dent out of the pax side door. Got lucky and scored bucket brackets and rear window gasket from junk yard. For now it has some scruffy XJ buckets installed with an XJ console. I filled in the brake handle slot then covered it up with a cup holder :doh: Replaced the water pump, fan clutch, radiator, fan shroud, added an electric fan. Replaced header panel up front and installed new turn/marker light assemblies. Welded up and install a JCR front bumper. Fabbed up and installed rear bumper and tailgate/tire carrier. Scrounged a roll bar from Loveland Co. Shipping cost twice as much as the roll bar :eek: Sprayed the liner in the bed, fabbed up hilift mount. Thats about it for stage one, the AC works pretty good for an R12 system running 134 in 115 degree heat. Brown Santa has been showing up daily with parts for Stage 2, springs and things... See the rust? Under the trim, the trim must go, this is the only real rust I have found. I promptly cut the bottom of the panel off and built a bumper to take it's place. O yeah, forgot... added tilt steering Louvers too.

It's cooling off here, only 115 today...