AZRick

Best of the Desert, Laughin Hare Scrambles, umteen years ago. They had a lifted MJ, it was love at first sight.

Carolina Dog http://www.carolinadogs.com/

Arriving the 12th departing the 16th, short stay but that's all I can swing this year. Staying at Slickrock campground. Running Gold Bar Rim, Hells Revenge and I think Poison Spider. Could be interesting, hauling the MJ inside the toyhauler, it's a tight squeeze. We need to arrange an MJ Moab run, one of these days :rock on:

About the worst in my experience, an NP203. That homie was some kind of serious odd ball shape and a bit on the heavy side @ 170 lbs. Once you started benching that puppy into place, there was no turning back.

The RE9900 drop brackets fit fine. The RE9905 bracket braces technically do not fit, but can be made to fit. An extra hole needs to be drilled for the forward cross member bolt position and some minor trimming around the Comanche's extra LCA bracing may be required. I have held it up to my Comanche's frame and noted those minor differences they would prevent it from fitting. I have not yet done those modifications to install them or completely test fit them. I bought a set, I'm sending them back. It will be easier to make braces from scratch than to try and make these fit. With the angle of the MJ LCA bracket the tail end of the brace would end up in a very awkward to deal with place.

Here is a short clip of the truck in action, note the serious broken XJ in the background. http://youtu.be/GZzlFyt2_EI The timing was epic, there was a huge backup due to the busted up XJ and it had just gotten cleared out when he came around again.

Headed out for the weekend with 33' fifth wheel in tow behind the big beast. New engine at about 1000 miles, just cruising down the freeway when it started to run rough. Pushed in the clutch and the Cummins died. Popped clutch, it came back to life and I worked over to the exit all the while things were getting worse in the shaking department. I clutched it again, it died again but I was the right lane and coasting to the off ramp. Luckily the off ramp was downhill, the light at the bottom went green, thinking if I could coax it back to life, I could make the turn then pull over on a side street. Popped the clutch again, the duals slid and we came to a sudden stop. Turns out they put the wrong bearings on the mains... Its now about 35,000 miles on the second rebuild, it is smooth as silk and purrs like a kitten. Yea, they paid for the second rebuild.

Nice race truck, sporting some serious diffs. I have a little bit of video of it on the course, I'll try and get that uploaded tomorrow. This thing rocked, sounded awesome and he won his class.

Actually the tripod is to rest binoculars on, wide open rugged area/small javelina, let the eyes to the walking. There is air in the tires?

I had tipped the roll bar lights back trying to get under a rail road trestle, still didn't fit :rotf:

yea they can be tuff to locate, mine cost more for shipping than I paid for it. I found mine by using google advanced search with craigslist.org in the "site or domain" field. https://www.google.ca/advanced_search

235/75-15 is a 29.1" tire. If you know what your gear ratios are, then use this chart to select the right tooth count for the gear. http://www.transmissioncenter.net/Speedometer_Gear_Chart.jpg another chart, http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoSpeedoGears.htm with part numbers

you the man, it's mine now, estimated delivery Mar 11. Thank YOU!

Anyone have a source for a 52068061-39 tooth speedo gear? Green-Long Shaft Morris has N/A for long shaft 38, 39 & 40 tooth :fs1: Currently have an old Garmin stuck to the dash, it's getting old.

Thanks for all the tips. Pulled the tank and put it on the workbench, got the new lock-ring/o-ring kit from NAPA, less than 5 bucks :D This was actually a o-ring, and that was my problem, the seal I was replacing was a square profile. This one went together like a dream, filled tank up, no more gassssin out the garage :thumbsup:

Sorry, it was like 75 here today, wish it would warm up so the snowbirds would go home and so you would work on your comanche.

get er done, lets have a look

it will be interesting to see how well the fixed lowers "center" the axle with 5.5 springs and no drop brackets...

yes, 242, go to a junk yard, they are spendy when buying new. Reread the question, a front yoke from a 242 will work on a Rugged Ridge SYE output shaft for a 231

Sorry :yes: It doesn't take long with a dial indicator setup to check.

A tail of woe and despair with a happy ending (not that kind of happy ending you pervert). Ever since I returned the Comanche to service, it’s had a vibration that’s been driving me nuts. Assuming it was the front, all kinds of shenanigans ensued, all to no avail. The jeep has 5.5 inch springs up front and a spring-over in the rear. The front drive line is not exactly lined up all that well, but one must keep the caster somewhat controllable on the street. For some reason it freaks people out when a little white pickup darts between lanes with no warning. My thoughts were, the front driveline that was causing all the havoc but nothing I tried really worked. Eventually I got around to pulling the front drive line and went for a spin, the jeep was still doing its best shale shaker impression (look it up). Guess the vibs are coming from the rear. Nothing would appear to be amiss with the usual suspects though. Rugged Ridge SYE, brand spanking new driveline, lined up perfect and connected to a newly rebuilt rear end. Everything looked good, so out came the dial indicator. At the pinion .004 run-out, that’s cool. On the portion of the yoke that disappears into the transfer case, again .004, sweet. At the transfer case end of the driveline, .045 not so sweet. First thought, the new driveline is hosed, but I unbolt it and spin it 180. Check of the run-out, still about .045” but now on the opposite side of the driveline. The off center followed the yoke not the driveline. Take everything apart and take a serious look at the SYE yoke, nice it doesn’t appear to be machined correctly. The little tab at each end of the yoke that restrains the u-joint caps are a bit farther apart than the u-joint is long. There is .018” extra space in there. Measuring the tabs, one is fatter than the other, answer, whip out the Miller and add a bit of material the skinny tab. Then into the mill with it to trim it back to spec. Now the u-joint fits nice and snug. Back into the jeep, everything bolted up, run-out is now .021”. Still to much, but we go for a spin anyway. The vibs are less, below 60 I can use the mirrors. I’m in a quandary, the run-out is now not lined up with the saddle in the yoke. At appears the yoke was machined incorrectly on both axis and there is no way I can fix that. I ordered up a new yoke. When it shows up, yea you guessed it, it’s not machined correctly either. It’s .015” wider between the tabs than the U-joint is long and it appears to be off center also. I put it back in the box, its going back. After much time spent scouring the intranet, I hit on a thread with my exact problem. Way down at the end of the thread was a bit of information that is vital to this story. A front output yoke from a NP242, in every way that matters, is identical to the rugged ridge yoke. Off to the Pick a Part, yea it just rained yesterday but I want this solved. There are about 8 Cherokees in the lot, a couple are 2WD, a couple don’t have a drive train in them anymore, everyone I crawl under to check out has a 272, there was even a 272 laying out in the open. Finally the last one on the lot, the one with the standing water under it, is sporting an unmolested 242, I molested it. :brows: Back home, swap out the yokes, and the one from the 242 fits beautifully. Hook up the drive line, put the dial indicator on it and it reads .004” run-out . We go for a spin, no more vibrations. Moral of the story; don’t buy a Rugged Ridge SYE, just don’t… :no:

It's leaking at the lock ring, at the very top, i.e. it only does it when its full and the wetness bleeds outward and down from the lock ring area.

Its evident I am doing something wrong. For the umteenth time, I need to seal-up the fuel pump/fuel tank interface. Not sure what @#%$ decided to put the fuel pump access in the side of the tank but I am having evil thoughts toward them. :doh: I was underneath last night, working on my on-going vibration problem, when I noted the smell of gas and wetness on the side of the tank. Does anyone have a part number for just the gasket? And Does anyone have a recommendation for a sealant that will not be affected by gasoline, something YOU HAVE PERSONAL EXPERIENCE WITH. Thanks Rick

Florence Junction area.