70barracuda

Haha, it's probably the rustiest jeep I have ever seen. It's an 1986 long bed with a 2.8 and 5 speed. It's absolutely shot. But the interior is mint and I needed a honey dash for my 88 so for 300 bucks it's mine. I'll take some more pics once home today.

So I did a thing...

trying to stick with the factory hood because of how well the patina works on the truck. A new hood would be so out of place, but that one is really sweet

I don't think i should have over heating issues, the electric fan I have moves 3600cfm and so far today in 80 degree it never got above 205F. but I nearly burned my hand on the hood. I thought about hood spacers as well but along with looking 'off' , it still has the issue that the open area is right at the high pressure area at the base of the windshield. I need something along the lines of these: https://imgur.com/r/foxmustang/JN8wDPB https://circuitdreamer.com/product/parts/exterior/garagestar-universal-drop-vent-heat-extractor/

Never stopped working. Being AAA we have to be available anytime. Definitely not a lot of tows and if there is they are short ones. Nothing like last summer with the long distance stuff. I will say having to service dead batteries has gone up like crazy with people not driving for weeks then coming out to a dead battery. It has definitely gotten busier though within the last 2 weeks. I think people are just done with staying home and venturing out even though NJ isn't technically open yet.

Finally driving the manche after getting the LS swap "done". Noticed that thing puts out a TON of heat. Doesnt overheat at all, but I'd like to help evacuate the underhood heat. My only experience really is with my Cherokee and crawling. I have a cowl hood on that and it definitely helps with heat offroading. But I know that the base of the windshield is a high pressure area and at speed it actually forced into the engine bay creating a bad pressure area. I've looked into heat extractor types but with how close the hood is to the motor, cutting and folding down isn't really an option. Ideally I want the air to pass through the radiator and out the hood over the windshield. I was thinking using hood vents but setting them as close forward as possible. Sound okay? Any help would be great. Don't want a new hood, it'll look way out of place.

Did a quick wheel alignment today. Solved a shake I had in the front end. This thing is an absolute monster to drive. Stalled it out at a light today and then smoked the tires pulling away. Still getting used to the clutch.

I actually have the azenis saved it my eBay cart. Good to hear some feedback on them though. I would love to keep the 10 hole rims but I need 17s to clear the big brakes I want. Plus it'll fill the fender better.

I have the iron rock rocklink on my Cherokee and I love it. Never had an issue and it seems super strong. Better design then their older one for sure.

Too bad the cuda I want is easily 100k + , but there is a sweet looking rust pile of one for sale near me for 4k... That's just the super charger 😁. (fluid was low and I think it was cavitating at higher rpm. It's all good now )

Ain't that the truth. I finally tallied up my build list and cried. But then I drove it and all was better.

Catch can mounted and lines ran correctly now (might have had them backwards...)

I don't wanna say it's never gonna be painted, but definitely not now. I love the patina look too much. Super easy to use. Took me all of 5 minutes to enter the data for a base tune and now it's learning on its own. There are some pretty advanced features in it so definitely gonna have to read up on everything.

And she's home! Made it all the way around the block lol. Messed around with the holley dash a bit and set up what I want on it. Still gonna do a analog tach, oil pressure, temp, and bolts as it will be easier to see at speed. Dash is great but kinda small. Did an oil change on it today. I'll run this stuff for about 500 miles then do another. Got a small coolant leak at the overflow nipple and I wanna tuck some wires and mount the catch can. Then road time!

True that haha

Oh yeah lol. I plan on going with a 245 tire but I'm still unsure if that'll be enough... although I'd rather go through tires then an axle shaft so maybe I don't want it to fully hook.

WJ grand Cherokee control arms. Cheap upgrade as they are fully boxed. Eventually I want to go with tubed though.

Scary lol. Definitely gotta get used to the power it puts down. Chirped the tires just letting the clutch out the first time I took it out. But it's smooth. I'm actually shocked how smooth the motor is. Exhaust is mellow until like 2 grand, then it opens up. I'm gonna try and get a better video once I change the oil and clean it up.

Came out to 570. Don't ask me how, I was prepared to spend like 1200 so when I got the call I was caught completely off guard.

Words cannot express how happy I am... lBbPD7qvFP4

Got the exhaust done today. My friend had a buddy that worked at a Mieneke and they did stainless. He did a kick-@$$ job. All the welds look fantastic and with how tight it was he made it work great.

Always been my daily till I got the Comanche running for the summer, but that goes away for winter so Cherokee it is. Once I get the swap done on the Comanche and it's reliable I'll be taking this off the road for a bit for much needed rust repair. 5 years in Syracuse NY was not kind at all.

Loaded up for the exhaust shop!

Fuel rail gauge, because racecar

If you pick it up rear wheels on the dolly, steer wheels on the ground, definitely ratchet strap the steering wheel straight. When I tow RWD in the air and front on the ground I ratchet from the steering wheel to the seat bracket, and also use the seat belt as back up. Ive gone 60+ mph with big vans and trucks like that no issues. But I am using a purpose built tow truck so control is definitely better. Don't trust the steering lock (made that mistake ONCE)