JMO413

I also installed the lights from the roll bar under the bed for back up lights. I also painted the rear diff cover when I changed the fluid. I also change the transmission fluid and transfer case fluid. Changed the rear pinion seal and rear transfer case out put seal.

I'm not sure. I got it close on install and went from there. The track bar from Rusty's is pretty nice.

Does the spring looked better in this picture?

The interior is in pretty decent shape for 30 years old. Along with some sweet widow cranks. The bed work roll bar removed and POR15 on the rust spots. Gotta support with the stickers!

I did install an adjustable track bar it came with the lift from Rusty's. That's the shock boot in the picture above. I will check the spring alignment tomorrow.

Thank you I never noticed.

Figured out the PO had the fuel pump wired straight to the battery. He did this to try and boost pressure I think. Replaced the fuel pressure regulator and the truck finally ran correct. I also replaced the PCM with a 89/90 PCM. It definitely helped the idle and ran a little better. Then the squeak began. There was this random squeak. Sometimes at idle sometimes driving. Finally pulled the idler pulley and the bearing was shot. Drove her some more back and forth to work. Finally found the wheels I wanted on Craigslist. Bought some Thunderer 31/10.50/15 Trac Grip. They are a little noisy but I like them and they are cheap.

I upgraded all the steering components to ZJ. All my tie rods were loose. The ZJ set up is cheap for the size difference. Replaced ball joints, axle joints, front hubs, rotors, pads, and calipers. Both calipers had the bleeder seized in them. Painted the front diff cover while I had it off changing the fluid. Had to get extended brake lines to feel okay about the lift. Also got quick disconnect sway bar links so they would reach. Wish I could say I put the upper control arms on then too but I didn't. The lift came with nice beefy lowers. I later put on WJ uppers and poly bushings in the axle. After a little more driving I realized how bad the motor mounts were. I replaced them with Brown Dog off road rubber mounts. They are good looking and definitely sturdier than stock. Even got my wife to help install them! I also had to change the oil filter housing orings. It was needed any way. Then more wiring problems. Had a constant draw. Finally figured out it was the wiring the PO had added for the fuel pump. Found a bunch of wires with small nicks that were shorting. Finally got them fixed and the fuel pump to function correctly. I replaced the speedometer cable that had melted on the exhaust. I finally had a speedometer that worked. Drive it some more and realized how bad the valve cover was leaking. I bought the good Felpro valve cover gasket and am happy I did. It's very good quality and no leaks after. I also did Cruisers valve cover mod while I had it off.

The never ending battle of wiring problems. Not sure how many people had owned this truck but it was a victim of scotch locks. So far I have removed about 20. Then I broke the battery tray. Love the replacement from Dirt Bound off road. Then I found Cruisers sight and went to work. Refreshed all the grounds. Added a few more grounds. Used half a big tube of Oxgaurd. I put in the 746 injectors beacuse one of mine was split. Cleaned the C101. Fixed the sensor grounds. Taped the throttle body and made new vacuum harness for the MAP sensor. Added the relays for the headlights. Finally got all the lights to work. The front sockets were shot. Put on a real back bumper not a piece of wood. The Fey bumper fits good and came with plate lights. Brackets seem a little flimsy. Bust got it from advanced Auto parts online. It was 25 percent of if I let them ship it! The I drove it long enough to get an alignment after the lift. Got some stock Cherokee wheels with decent tires so I could see what else she would need. Found out I needed ball joints when I tried to get it aligned.

The day I bought Ratricha the 88 Pioneer. Bought her for $1200 and drover her home 72 miles. Price seemed reasonable to me with under 110 K on the odometer. I had no clue how bad the frame was rusted and the leaf spring was cracked. Almost everything was stock minus some PO add on. Then I took off the running boards and realized the frame had a nice large hole in it. An afternoon and some metal later good to go. This is when I realized the leaf spring eye was broken. So I started looking for leaf springs. I decided on the Rusty's 4.5 because it had rear springs. While I was waiting on the lift I replaced the vacuum line set up. Did plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. Then it all began.

So I went out this morning and now she runs perfect. I guess whatever I got wet dried out?

I had never heard of using vinegar. I tried it and now I have heat. Thanks for the good write up.

We all go to my aunt's. We have Turkey and ham along with all the sides. Mashed potatoes, sweet potatoes, green bean casserole, corn casserole, homemade buns, and cranberry sauce. One of my cousins is married to a Loation so his mom brings egg rolls and fried rice. For dessert we get all sorts of pies. Pumpkin, Apple, cherry, pecan, and chocolate. Along with pumpkin rolls and what my family calls fluff. It's whipped cream with fruit in it. That is what I refer to as an Iowa meal.

Both Dzimm and I are very happy with our kits from Rusty's. From his easier post and mine.

Good looking truck!

Is there a way to test the ICM?

Dodge and Chevy call both of their short beds 5'. The dealership I work at sells more crew cab short beds than any thing else. The only running boards I stock in parts are for the crew cab. I agree with Pete they will sell every one they make. Hopefully that will lead to a truck closer to our Comanches.

Volts AC. The resistor is bypassed already. I was only in the passenger side thought. Runs 1 or 2 minutes.

The Jeep Gladiator forum has a supposed screen shot from FCA that says it will be a 5 foot bed. The link is to their post. https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/2020-jeep-gladiator-official-pics-and-specs.8214/

I had a similar squeak and it was the idler pulley. It looked good spun good by hand. I finally took it all apart again and the bearing in the pulley was junk. Wouldn't spin by hand.

So I pulled the Comanche in to flush the heater core and now it either won't start or does start then shuts off a little while after running. When it does shut down it will not restart do to no spark. The CPS reads .48 when tested. I'm guessing I got the ICM or coil to wet. Not sure what to do now. When it shuts down it's like you turned the key off. Has started 5 or 6 times and does the same thing each time.

She's had just under 109000 when I got her.

1988 Jeep Comanche Pioneer short bed 4.0 BA10 231 Dana 30/Dana 35 Currently in Southeast Iowa The truck is a DD or daily work on depending! Exterior color is mostly black with some nice rust spots for character. Interior is full cluster, short back gray buckets with a full console. All together it is a survivor truck that someone had fun with before me. Came with control arm drop brackets on it and some sort of lift. I have spent about four months rebuilding this truck to be my DD. Pictures from when I bought it.

https://comancheclub.com/topic/43867-relatively-cheap-tie-rod-upgrade/ This is the link in tech that I read. We are all driving almost 30 year old trucks if not over 30. The whole set up seemed like a good idea especially with how easy death wobble is to have. Glad I did it all. Trucks drives and steers great even at 70 on 31" mud tires