Harper

Kick all you want, bud....you and I have different FSMs. Mine doesn't have lettered sections, the sections are numbered 1-25, so if I were to refer you to say section 2 (FRONT SUSPENSION) pg 2-15, fig 7 "Hub and tapered roller bearings (4WD)", you wouldn't be any more impressed than I am. None of you seem to care about helping smithe1811 with his problem. So, all things considered, you obviously don't care for my input, and I don't particularly need yours ... so long y'all......good luck, Erik.

Okay.....CWLongshot and Wildman......and you too, Eagle. My apologies if I overreacted to what I considered a rather snide way of correcting what was seen as incorrect terminology. As I said, the FSM uses the same terminology. I know what a spindle is, but as I said the FSM even refers to the component outside the front axle U-joints as spindles. But far be it from me to want to confuse anybody. So let's put that behind us. Look at the video. Wildman, I, too, have a CAD on my axle. The intermediate axle is separate from the main axle that goes from the differential to the shift motor. The intermediate shft has two parts, separated by a U-joint. The inner part of this intermediate axle is centered in the tube by the main axle shaft that is itself centered by a bushing (don't get on me with terminology here, the FSM refers to it as a bushing in some places, and as a bearing in others, I've not had reason to tear mine down in this area, so I've not seen it). This bushing(bearing) is inboard of the CAD. The movement of the axle relative to the axle housing appears to me to be a problem, either with the bushing(bearing) or a broken inner portion of the intermediate axle shaft (that shaft which is outboard of the CAD). So my whole point all along has been that I think smithe1811 has more than just a U-joint problem to address here. If the three of you think that the movement that I'm refering to is acceptable, then fine. Let smithe1811 just repair the U-joint.

Considering it's a 4 wheel drive axle that doesn't have a spindle, that's a stretch ... Okay, Eagle.........I only went by the FSM labeling and narratives on the D30 front axle, which refers to the bearings of the D44 and D30 axles as spindle bearings, or wheel bearings or simply inner and outer bearings. It also refers to the outer yoke on the axle U-joint as the "spindle yoke." So shoot me. But actually, I was looking at it wrong (backwards). On second view, I see that the video is shot looking across the hub, toward the differential. So Eagle, considering the amount of play in the intermediate axle in the axle tube, does smithe1811 need just a U-joint as your remark has led him to believe? It doesn't seem right that the axle would move in the tube like that, and the only thing that I think of that centers the axle in the tube is the right side axle shaft pilot bushing. It seems even possible that he's broken the intermediate shaft on the right side. Now, do you want to just correct me, or would you like to say something that would be helpful to smithe1811?

Thanks for sharing that, Eagle...good to know info!

No, just the defective parts. Replacing the whole shebang is a bit of overkill.......neither easier nor cheaper. Besides, taking things apart and reassembling is an education in itself. :thumbsup:

:eek: Looks to me like both a bad axle u-joint and a bad spindle bearing.

HUH? :hmm: Uh-uh! don't think so.....

I haven't worked on a clutch for years, but only things I can think of offhand would be to make sure disc side stamped "flywheel side" is toward engine; FSM mentions too thick a disc as a possibility (sometimes happens with aftermarket parts especially), misalignment, warped clutch cover, make sure disc slides easily on input shaft splines (no binding, no burrs, etc), and of course, it mentions bleeding, which you've obviously done sufficiently.

There's a little post directly below the filler neck, as you look inside the pressure bottle. On all the bottles I've seen, the bottom half of the post is round, and a semi-circular portion sicks up above that. Fill to the top of the round part of the post. Any more than that, and it's likely to overflow. Bleeding the system...raise the rear of the truck a ways, engine cold, remove the temp sensor at the left rear of the cylinder head, fill until coolant runs out the hole, replace the sensor, check coolant level in the bottle as described. If you're seeing coolant around the cap or elsewhere on the pressure bottle after running at normal temps, assume it's got small cracks and won't hold pressure. At the temps our trucks run, if it won't hold pressure, it will boil and overheat. As automan pointed out, the bottle is always suspect.

Man!.....don't be talkin' to my wife! :rotfl2:

.....and you can find one from Rock Auto parts http://www.rockauto.com for as little as $8.87, or as much as $37.79. But make sure you look under Cherokee 4.0; it's not listed under Comanche 4.0

Was it overheating prior to the work, or did you do the work because of the pump seal was leaking fluid, or what?

:agree: I, too have an aluminum surge tank on the way. I've replaced the plastic tank at least three times because of fissures or cracks and coolant loss. Been through a couple of factory tanks as well as aftermarket types. This latest one, a Dorman from Rock Auto, is kaput after six months. I'm done with the plastic. To answer your question about system pressure management, the black plastic cap is a pressure cap that works essentially like a regular radiator cap, and is calibrated to maintain 16-18 psi in the system.

Still have all my publications and the plastic case they came in. The most useless of the bunch would be the warranty booklet and the worldwide list of dealers. :rotfl2:

Oh yeah, a shorted positive would definitely cause a power draw :yes:

Last month I installed a Reese universal fit made to fit the Cherokee, among other vehicles. It required drilling 1/2" holes in both the mounting bracket and the Comanche frame rails just behind the spring shackle mounts. But it worked out great. I tried to post the pictures, but had trouble with it and gave up. I have a Fey bumper on a long bed metric ton. The hitch does not touch or interfere with the bumper in any way. It was a Reese #37042, I bought it at Walmart for $114. Reese isn't making that hitch anymore, but it's been superceded by #37152, which should attach with the same mods. The drilling was necessary to move the hitch rearward about 2" to not only clear the tail pipe, but also to be closer to the back edge of the bumper. It ends up about 1/2" forward of the rear edge of the bumper and about 1/2" below the bumper. 5000 pound rated, 500 tongue weight.

Pull the drum, have an assistant push the pedal just a little, slowly and be ready to stop as soon as you see movement (you don't want to be pushing the brake pedal too far with no drum on the axle). If the shoes don't move you know you have to find where the blockage is. If they move, then I don't know other than maybe you've got the wrong parts, drum is too big, or something like that. Then again you say they're "nice and adjusted", but if that's the case the parts should be sized right, if the adjustment is truly done properly.

They're different.....2WD costs more, because the 4WD rotor isn't integral with the hub. But $100, though not unreasonable, is a bit pricey. Can definitely be had cheaper.

Any chance that there's another drain on it somewhere after you shut it down?

'90 Comanche Pioneer, 4x4, 4.0L, AW4, NP231, D30/D44, Metric Ton, long bed. Built 6/90, current mileage (6/10) 195000 Located in south central Texas Driven regularly, pulls a 4000 lb boat to the coast and back every month or so (500 miles round trip), other than that, I go to town once or twice a week, but only if I have to. :chillin: Ordered and purchased from dealer in Phoenix, AZ in June of 1990 (lived at the time in Albuquerque, NM) so has high altitude emissions package. Soon after purchase, stripped interior, including headliner, removed door panels, and installed sound deadening material throughout and sound/heat shield to floor. Exterior color Desert Sand Metallic, interior light tan (don't remember color's name), full instrument cluster, cruise, interval wipers, vinyl buckets, full console, carpet, floor shift lever, A/C (still works like new, never opened up), operating vent windows, rear slider window, on third rear bumper (Fey) due to being rear-ended twice. Also has Gem shell on bed. Early on, replaced radiator with custom made three row HD radiator, added tranny oil cooler & temp gauge, and remoted the engine oil filter (so now has 7 qt capacity). All lubes (engine, xmsn, diffs, grease) have been Amsoil full synthetic since break-in. Recently modified and installed 5000# Reese receiver hitch. Have also just removed "Pioneer" stripes, etc. in anticipation of paint one of these days (still orig. paint). Just ordered and will install aluminum surge tank in place of plastic one that is only six months old and already showing signs of fatigue. Truck still runs like new, never had a serious issue. In '97-'98 took retirement trip, no itinerary, but purposely avoided interstates, took the back roads, zig-zagged several times across all lower 48 states and some Canada, 42,000 miles in 10 months. Originally owned and forever pampered by Mike (Harper) -----will edit later and post picture

:agree: Leave 'em alone. The wiring diagram in the FSM for my '90 shows the wire to which you've referred....it's shown as a dark blue wire with a female bullet connector and is labeled "unused". It is spliced to the tail light circuit as are the license plate lights.The black wire, as hornbrod said, is a ground with a male bullet connector.

Well young man, you're gonna LOVE retirement (if there is still such a thing in 40 years, [not meant to be funny]). As you get older, your skin gets a lot thinner......so for that reason and to save money on those Mach3 blades, I shave maybe twice a week, on Sunday for church, then maybe Wednesday, and only then if I feel lke it.... :yes:

A couple years ago, when I was driving an 18 wheeler, I bought a Braun just for the convenience. Like mnkyboy said, it's not as close.....actually you can almost get as close a shave, but ya darned near rub your face raw to do it.. But man, I bought a 5-pack of Gillette Mach 3 Turbo Plus (or whatever name the Madison Ave types came up with) last week, and I tell ya, I'm ready to find a different solution. Over $20 bucks for 5 blades is ridiculous! :fs1:

Don't know how long you were out of country, but if it sat for a long time with fuel in the carb bowl (and gas tank), good chance that the gas went bad. Any time you have to leave something sit for months, you either need to use an additive like Sta-bil, or drain the system (at least the carburetor bowl). But even such additives don't preserve the fuel forever, but usually keep the fuel viable for 9 months to two years, depending on other environmental factors.

And now a few of my own observations..... Sheep are sometimes exasperating to an ol' sheepdog. Not long ago, I was watching Fox News coverage of "Turning Point 4," the 5 day national defense exercise in Israel, wondering how well such an exercise would go in this country. Even if we were under the threats that they face, there'd likely be a lot of whining and complaining by the various civil rights groups that the "peace" that their sheep were enjoying was being threatened.......not by the wolves, but by the sheepdogs! Furthermore, sheep are notoriously stupid. I've no problem with that. However, we have a generation of sheep today that are not only stupid, but are woefully and willfully ignorant. They are so involved with their various diversions that they have not studied the pictures drawn for them by the previous generations of what a wolf actually looks like. They choose to deny that wolves even exist. Or if they believed that wolves might exist, today's sheep couldn't discern the difference between another sheep and a wolf. As for the sheepdog, he's just a mean-spirited hate-monger. Been to 'Nam and back, in '68-'69. My son, thank God, didn't have to go through that. My greatest fear today, with the present "leadership" in Washington, is that my 13 year old grandson, and my 9 year old grandson, and maybe even my granddaughters will end up in some God-forsaken place fighting an ill advised war to profit some statist banker. I'm a conservative, but not necessarily political. Conservatism is a philosophy, a lifestyle. I guess we have to have liberals around, but I don't have to listen to their emotional drivel. And I won't stand for their socialist agenda.