Harper

Sorry, but the only way you're gonna get "a nice rumble" is to add four more cylinders...... :brows:

:D Well now, happyjeep, you sound like an intelligent and eager young man. But you aren't likely to get any answers to your no-start problem until you answer the questions that have been posed to you. You seem to have a situation where the starter is not turning, otherwise you wouldn't be suspecting the wire from the starter relay to the starter motor. You still haven't explained what "positive feedback from the relay" is, but seem to imply that you have voltage when you turn on the key. You shouldn't have any voltage from the relay to the starter in a "KOER" situation, but only with the key in the "start" position. In any case you also haven't answered whether it's a cranking engine that refuses to start, or a "dead" condition when the key is turned to the start position(i.e. nothing happens when you try to start). If you don't have a cranking engine, how do you know there's spark at the plugs, and how do you know that there's fuel at the injector? You won't get either without the motor turning over. So if you can answer those questions that were posed before, then I'm sure someone here will be able to help you trace down the problem.

"not to sound like a tard but anyone got any pics of this so maybe i can try and compare i don't have a book i know i need one but i hate spending money lol" mjeff87 wrote up a good howto: replace timing chain...... viewtopic.php?f=9&t=3291 ..if you'll look starting at about the 11th picture, he goes through pulling the harmonic balancer, and has a picture of one that needs to be replaced. You can see on that picture where the pulley has worked forward of the hub, and the rubber insert is also clearly visible. When this happens, it usually starts out with a squeal, due to the misalignment, then progresses to just chewing up the serpentine belt, and all you hear is pieces bangin' on the underside of the hood. :(

Well, I appreciate that, but don't get up that way much anymore. Went to high school in Saugerties, married my girl from there, then took 'er away from all that, and it took in all about 30 years to get her back home down here. :D

with a PLASTIC dead blow hammer. "Plastic, natcherly!" :thumbsup:

Yessir.....thanks y'all.....sounds like getting it out shouldn't be too hard. I'm a little more concerned about getting it back in with the interference fit........just tap 'er back in with a dead-blow hammer I guess?

Check out that harmonic balancer.....could be coming apart. It's a 2-piece, the grooved pulley separated from the hub by a rubber ring. If the hub and pulley don't looked lined up or you can see the rubber working its way out from between, then it's time to replace the whole thing.

Anybody ever pull and reinstall the diff in a Dana 44 without a case spreader? I've read that it can be done, but haven't seen any details. I'll be replacing the pinion bearings one o' these days.

The OEM sender on my '90 4.0 is a two piece sending unit. There's the sensor itself, with a plastic cap that has a small spring contact that rest on a metal cap of the sensor. This plastic caps snaps on/off and has an o-ring to seal out dirt and moisture. The wire has a rubber boot that fits over the terminal on the cap. The o-ring doesn't always do its job well. In really wet weather conditions, it builds condensation, or somehow gets a slight amount of moisture under the cap, and causes the oil pressure to read higher than normal. Also causes some fluctuating pressure readings under steady state RPMs, with the needle jumping up and down between the correct pressure and 20-30 psi higher. The reason for this is that the moisture buildup causes some resistance between the contacts inside the cap. Snap the cap off and thoroughly dry the inside of the cap and wipe off the sensor, and see if that helps. It's cured my fluctuating gauge whenever it's occurred (there have been times when the gauge pegged on the high side).

If you're really interested in getting air shocks instead of the bags, the Monroe Max-air MA820 fits the rears perfectly. The only reason that Monroe doesn't list them as an MJ fitment is that Monroe, in conjunction with Jeep manufacturing, has decided it's unwise to use any bolt-on device that would potentially mess up the functioning of the rear brake load proportioning valve. The length, both compressed and extended, and the mounts are exactly the same as the shocks listed as applicable to our MJs. I have them mounted on my truck, and although I don't believe that they prevent the sag quite as well as the bags would while loaded, they do an adequate job. On my metric ton suspension, the heaviest springs aren't in in use until the lighter springs let the body drop 2-3". This keeps the ride more comfortable while empty, but allows considerable sag before loading the heavier leaves on the stack. The shock overcomes this when I'm towing my boat. I needed the level ride because with the tandem axle trailer it was necessary for the even wear of the trailer tires, not to mention that the truck handles better when pulling the 4000 lbs. The Max-airs provided just enough extra lift to do the job when inflated to the max recommended running pressure of 75 PSI. The only MJ that doesn't match the length characteristics exactly is the '86 2WD. The MA820 is about 3 1/2" too long for this MJ. For every other MJ ('86 4WD and all '87-'92 MJs, 2WD and 4WD) the MA820 is an exact match with the regular shocks. Mike

'90 4.0 metric ton, AW4, 4X4, stock everything, 192K.......18.75mpg consistently (keepin' 'er at 60 on the hwy with today's gas prices)......11mpg pulling my 4000 # boat.