eaglescout526

At least they knew what pics to take.

Lol. I just don’t want the 4.0L guys to get in here and confusing things.

ISA.

Checks out. It’s still good. Now I can hear a tinging sound every time I do push on the clutch pedal. I crawled underneath and had my wife push on the pedal to recreate this sound and it confirms something has gone on with the slave cylinder.

There isnt any Mopar ones left. Its a GM MAP sensor so just go GM on it. That being said, if it wont stay running with the MAP now plugged back in, there is issues elsewhere.

Ok I got one for you guys. Has me stumped but I have a couple ideas. So Monday night I drove home, clutch pedal was normal and would go to the floor like it should. Come out Tuesday, hop in, start her up, release e-brake and put her in reverse and the pedal feels weird. Huh ok, I am still going into gear. Turn the lights on and the pedal isnt going to the floor. Ok thats a weird change...I can still drive like normal but what the hell would cause the sudden over night change? For those who dont know or remember, I swapped to the 84-86 external clutch set up. Not rocking the 84-90 internal. Now I did remove the fluid from the master and cleaned it out thinking I had some debris plugging the hole and nothing. My theories are: The slave is over extended Gunk in the slave Orrr worst case is the clutch needs to be replaced but I did that a couple years ago at the same time I did the external slave swap.

Which member?

They probably had no idea that it would fit at all. But hell I love it! Making me jealous of how luxurious your MJ is gonna be.

You have an 86. It doesn’t have a C101 at all. 87 and 88 had this though.

I’d check it just to be sure. After that I’d test compression. I’ve had issues where I would be driving and coolant from a bad head gasket would get into the combustion chambers and cause sputtering and for it to die a bit before catching back up.

Ok had to make sure. Have you checked the CPS to see if it is outputting the right voltage for the ECU?

What do the spark plugs look like? Have you replaced them?

Just because the interior goes dead doesn’t mean the engine is turning off. I’d still inspect the switch if it has never been done. It is known to melt as well. Not as frequent as the head lamp switch, but poor grounds would cause it to heat up. I really don’t think it’s the starter relay and only because it’s a $50+ part and would like to try to help find the actual problem, but if your gut says it’s the relay, then replace it. And if that turns out the issue, I’ll be damned and can say this condition can point to the starter relay.

ISA opens up after shut down to be ready for the next start.

Flooding? Like fuel is still getting into the engine? I would suspect the injector could have failed O-rings if fuel is still getting into the engine. Id have to look at my 86 electrical manual, but I don’t think the alt is a worry here. The key being switched off is what turns everything off. You could have a sticking or melted ignition switch or connector down the column causing this issue. The ECU controls the injector pulses and ICM. The CPS tells the ECU when to send spark. So if you turn it off and the ECU is still getting power, it’s gonna get the signal from the CPS to spark and it’s still pulsing the injector. Would thus lead to your engine still operating a bit longer after shut down. Id definitely take a look at the ignition switch. That’s a free diag without spending money on parts that are very well still in working order.

They have a modern part number. I forget what it is but I think it’s a 650 number. The old number was a 3420.

Something tells me the ISA isn’t adjusted or working. That motor on the front of the throttle body pushes the throttle plate open to allow a proper start up and control the idle. That’s one problem. another one would be the manifold bolts. Another would be TPS or grounds.

Get a smaller dog. Hahaha. Had to say it. there’s a few write ups in different benches. There’s a Dakota one that yields a center console.

Of course! It’s a worthwhile upgrade to have on these Jeeps. Even if you don’t use it often, it’s just another feature to have.

More than likely. I was actually surprised as I have never removed my switches from the door jambs. But it looks like the nylon clip that holds the terminal to the switch has just failed to hold the terminal to the switch. I’d give it a look. Maybe soak it in some vinegar to remove any corrosion if it still is in good shape.

Damn. Its been a bit huh. Well she still lives. Duh, runs like a champ. But im here today to show this gem: My key in chime failed. Ok thats fine. Ill order a new switch for the column cause that usually brakes from the stress. Plot twist. The switch isnt broke. Ok thats weird. Did some power tracing. Found I had no power, weird. Found a popped fuse. I think I did that when the switch contacted the column. Replaced it, still nothin. Ok. Busted out the MJ electrical manual. Found the chime circuit, went to the dome lamp as well. Decided to take the switch out and found the 40 year old switch is broke. Alright, thanks for your service switch. Dug out my NOS one, put it in and We are back in business with a new switch too. That is all. I need to add some stickers to her from boxyjeep still. Been lazy.

Added my NOS seat frame.

I think I see a factory tail gate end cap.

All

Have you cleaned your grounds?