boxyjeep

You’re the man! Thanks

The cup has a hole for the stud on the rubber part. But still needs to be pressed into the cup.

I ended up using these: Crown Automotive 52087635 Bump... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M3MWY00?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Daystar KU09037BK Front/Rear... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004IARR9U?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Had to use my vice to crank them it (very tight press fit).

Anyone have the measurements of these bracket by chance? Trying to make a set for larger speakers but don’t have originals.

Take some pics of the crossmember and where it mounts to it.

This truck is coming along amazing! I was rooting for the chrome trim, but I’ll admit the single color looks a lot better.

https://www.blipshift.com/products/chiefly-2?variant=41557353562157

Picked this up from an ad on IG. I suppose it might also work for an XJ... I primarily got it since it matches my truck pretty closely. Not sure if it'd be weird to wear this when driving What are you guys sporting?

I sent in a few entries (the 'no purchase necessary' instructions are on their website). I like some aspects of the build, but was surprised by some others (like keeping the closed cooling system, as well as the aftermarket AC). The hidden winch was a nice upgrade. I asked them to share how they did it--apparently they will be posting about it on YouTube soon. If I won, I'd probably clean it up a bit more, take it to a few car shows, and sell it at some point. I've got too much time/work into my MJ to ever consider swapping...

You've got some luck! Took me 2 years to find my MJ and I had to settle on a Renix.

Super rare to find a '92 short bed 4x4. Keep that thing pristine if you can.

Been making some good progress on underbody painting and rear axle. I abandoned my attempts to run native 5-on-5" axle shafts with Eldorado calipers/weld-on brackets. Apparently these calipers are notorious for having issues (hence why most factory rear disc brake configurations use "drum-in-rotor-hat" instead). That being said, I've had the truck in the garage for the past few months and really want to get it back on the road, so I ordered a new set of rear drums/shoes and will be sticking with those for now with slim 1" 5-on-4.5" to 5-on-5" adapters. All taped off to prevent any overspray: Sanded/scuffed: First coat (using Rustoleum flat black): Also getting some semi-gloss on the rear leaf springs before reassembly: And wire wheel/rust converter/wire wheel on the rear drum backing plates. I'm actually super impressed by how well the water-based converter works (this is the one I used). Pictures show before/after: Remaining tasks: Finish up under-body painting (this is a really unenjoyable job--rattle can doesn't do so well spraying upwards). Reassemble spring packs (will be using new pads and grease). Weld up new spring perches/shock mounts on rear axle. Paint rear axle afterwards. Install new rear drum brake components and longer wheel studs. Weld up exhaust (CA-legal cat, Flowmaster 40, Walker tail pipe) and paint with high-temp paint. Measure and install cut-to-fit emergency brake cables. Swap in 4.5" RE front springs, install high-steer sway-bar mounts, paint steering linkage. Alignment. Get it re-geared to 4.56 and install front locker (still deciding between an e-locker and ARB). I've also been debating a manual transmission swap. My first few Cherokees were 5-speed and while it can get frustrating in traffic and in some off-road situations, this isn't a daily driver and I do miss the level of control and fun.

Looks great! I also upgraded to the newer washer fluid reservoir. Ends up being so much cleaner under the hood.

This happened to me when I tried driving with the TCU disconnected. You should get a REM if you don't already have one to see what the TCU is reading (or not reading).

I was intrigued and had a spare Carfax report, so I ran it. Looks like it had ~230k miles in 2013 and then was reported as "odometer exempt" in 2016. Likely someone screwing around or swapping clusters. Sadly, not the highest mileage MJ :-( CARFAX Vehicle History Report for this 1988 JEEP COMANCHE PIONEER_ 1JTHS64P2JT107265.pdf

Haha nice. The wire nuts always make me laugh. My truck had corroded terminals and bypasses similar to yours, as well as a bunch of sensor wires simply cut off in the engine bay. Also needed new bulb sockets for most of the blinkers/markers (I didn't even know those could go bad).

I ended up returning everything and buying a new set of drums and shoes for the rear. I’ll use new longer universal e-brake cables (they were binding at full droop) and just stick with drums for now. As much as I’d like to be a trailblazer with this, the feedback in this thread made me realize that I’d rather just get the SOA done and the truck back on the road than spend weeks/months just trying to solve disc brakes…

Thanks guys—this is some really good feedback. It seems like opinions on the internet are mixed on these calipers. I am also at the point in the project where I can return things without incurring too much cost. I’ll do a bit more research and see what might work best. My concern about ZJ/Crown Vic discs is that the 5-on-5” axle shaft flange won’t fit the ID of the “hat”. I’ll do some more research and update this thread.

Awesome--would love to hear your plan. I was super bummed that the D44 axle shaft flanges were too small to be re-drilled. Hopefully that's the solution for the 8.8...

Here's the link to the manual. Highly recommend downloading, printing, and throwing into a 3-ring binder.

Nothing worse than a PO that's messed with the original wiring. Based on the '88 Electrical Manual, those might be wires for the transmission control and backup/turn signals: I think the PO may have bypassed the original terminals if they were corroded (I can partially see something weird in the empty "TURN B/U 20" fuse slot in your pic. You can actually buy new terminals from DelCity to replace any corroded ones and go back to the original orientation.

Yes, there are enough threads, but you won't be able to run a cotter pin and the original castle nut "shroud". I'm running a cotter pin without the shroud, as I don't think it matters too much (hopefully). Alternatively, you can grind down the axle shaft bolt to be thinner or you could drill a new hole in the shaft. There are plenty of threads either way.

Thanks Pete! I do have some concerns about that as well as the risk of running XJ shackles. I'm going to test things out but also be ready to adjust in the future.

I think they are pretty standard size. Take the broken one down to Autozone and get a length of what you need. They also have adapters/couplers to patch. That being said, one of my favorite "upgrades" was yanking out that whole thing. I locked the arm into the "engaged" position permanently and wired up an electrical indicator on the transfer case for the "PART-TIME" light.

Yes, I do. For the front, I am running a late-model XJ high-pinion Dana 30 with WJ knuckles/full outers. This consists of the following: XJ Dana 30 HP housing (same as LP) XJ Dana 30 axle shafts (preferably the larger u-joint version). You could also do this with CAD housing or shafts. WJ knuckles (both sides) WJ swap spacer kit (this is a good one). You need the larger spacer and smaller washers. Larger spacer gets welded on. WJ ball joints WJ unit bearings WJ calipers (you will need longer bolts--12MMX1.25X40MM grade 10.9) WJ rotors You'll also need to figure out your steering solution. You can keep the stock steering, but will lose out on the higher drag link mount. I opted to ream my knuckles for 1-ton TRE's and got custom length 1.5" aluminum links from WideOpenDesign. For the track-bar I went with CavFab OTA mount kit and RE frame-side bracket. I haven't solved the sway bar linkage yet, but do have a set of Clayton high-steer brackets I'm planning to try to fit. I don't have a ton of miles on it yet, but so far I'm relatively happy. I'm also in the process of swapping my rear D44 to native 5-on-5" pattern. That being said, if I were to do it again I would just get a set of JK/JL/JT take-off axles. The only work would be welding some mounts and steering linkage...