m2bandit

Pretty cool electric car history. Would be cool if someone with stupid money put a tesla in it.

So you'd need the thin metal bit from a 2 door ? any issue in just wiring it directly? I have Doors off an 89 4dr xj I was hoping to add electric to my MJ without using the 4dr panel with extra buttons.

That brings us to the end for now. I'll be traveling for the next couple of years so here it will sit.

My last project on this for now was the shifter seals and tranny mount both didn't go well. I couldn't get the shifter separated with pickle forks, the tranny tunnel bent in without it budging. I tried with heat aswell. So the seal on top of the tranny is still trash. My tranny mount was demolished. The one I ordered said it fit but it didn't. I might just weld a plate to the top of it vs paying $100 for the other one.

I double checked definitely glued on. Maybe I can get the replacement and use rearview mirror glue.

There is, I thought that was just a sticker the p/o put on there. It looks like the p/o pried it open and broke the latch. It also has burs in the frame preventing it from closing all the way. I found a Laurence latch part number dv2 but it appears mine was glued on not screwed on. I take it there's no seal and one kind of slides into the other.

It's a 4 pane.

Where can I get a seal that goes between the two sliders, and the latch for it? I have the big piece of the latch just not what it clips to on the other side. Also need the inner shifter boot for the AX15. I ordered one but it looks nothing like the original, not sure how it would fit in there.

I recharged the Ac, I didn't check the temp but it blew cold! Also gravity bled the clutch. I got to take it out for a spin everything worked great. I spent some time scrubbing all of the interior parts. If anyone has a recommendation for paint for that gray interior plastic I'd appreciate it. I then tried removing the stupid wheel spacers. I got 2 wheels off but 2 lugnuts stripped before coming off... I ordered an extractor for it hopefully it works.

Off topic My new RV Jayco 245rlsw and 2019 Ram 1500, both of which have been getting some mods of their own. If you ever buy an RV go through it thoroughly I know people say that for the inspection but I mean more than that. Bring it home, take the undercarriage liner off ( which is a pain) and check Everything! I'll list a few of the major issues. 2" Insulation was cut off the Brake + wire, which was right next to an exposed ground. Propane hose was being cut into by sheet metal wouldn't have lasted 1000 miles, at 600 it was already getting deep. 6/ 20 black tank screws were broken off from over torquing another 2 weren't in all the way. 2 gray tank screws were broken with a few loose. Trailer light wires literally fell out of their crimps when touched. The entire undercarriage was severely rusted. It was a brand new custom order built in November 2019. I'll leave it at that but the list of little things goes on. I'm very happy with it now but it was absolutely dangerous.

I did a tcase seal yesterday HF seal puller worked great. To get the new seal on I cut the rubber off the old seal so it wouldn't hit the new rubber and set it over the new seal while hitting it. This kept the rubber protected from the flat seal driver. Also did a spedometer cable ATP Y-924 Speedometer Cable fit perfectly, it does NOT ship with cable lube though despite saying it does. Don't use wd-40... I used Dorman 03344 graphite cable lube. The leak from the roof was coming from a poorly done Antenna install. The hole looked like it was cut with a holesaw without a guide. I'm not sure if I'll weld that up in the future but for now I saw this "amplified" shark fin antenna on amazon and thought I might as well try it. It has a molded rubber seal that will hopefully work, I also added a circle of "Proflex" sealant around the hole.

I'm finally getting back into this, I got pretty sick from a severe infection for a while then bought a new RV that had a lot of issues to fix along with doing a 600w solar install /w battery bank. Planning on recharging the AC today, the good news on that front is it held vacuum all of this time. I completed merging the 89 cherokee chassis wiring. Since the Comanche doesn't have separate blinkers this required a trailer wire converter. Here's what I have for driver's side kick panel wiring that connects all tail lights/ fuel pump/ interior illumination. XJ side Black connector 1- GY/RD Park Brake Switch 2- PK Cargo Lamp Feed 3- LB/BK Stop Lamps 4- DB Illumination Relay (Running lights?) 5- BR Right Turn Rear 6- TN Fuel Guage 7- BR/WT Reverse lights. 8- BK/WT Courtesy Lamps 9- BK/WT left Door jamb somthing Gr/BK Left Turn Rear 10- WT Sealt Belt Switch Gray Connector BK Speaker return right rear Wt/bk Speaker feed right reat Or/Bk Console Illumination Y/bk Wiper motor LG/BK stop lamps Br/Wt Speaker return left rear GR Speaker feed left rear Yellow/Brown Rear wiper grwt? Rear defogger middle of connector MJ side Weatherpak (thanks Ohm) Orange Fuel pump hot Drk BR Right turn / Stop Blue Running lights Tan Fuel gauge D spot on weatherpak Reverse lights Gray left turn/ stop Gray connector Wt Right speaker feed Br right speaker return bk/ylw Left speaker return Gr/wt Left speaker feed Pink interior lights Bk/wt Door jamb switch for interior lights. Bk, Ground ( no XJ connection I cut and grounded to chassis. ) Wt seat belt chime ( only masochists connect this) Pink /BK Cargo light (no XJ connection) Notes : Their are 2 white wires, one goes to the RH speaker one to the stupid seatbelt chime. I just used an ohm meter to check which is which. Several wire colors change at the connector on both XJ and MJ. My XJ list is fuse block side. I changed my MJ wire colors to the back side of it since I cut the harness behind the seat. Ones I remember are the MJ's speaker wires Bk/ylw and the white one both turn into something else.

You have a link to those 99+ numbers? It probably helps but I doubt very much. All I've ever seen is butt dyno, aside from this link. https://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/engine/154-0911-jeep-4-liter-engine-myth-busting-true-lies/ The Renix TB is 52mm it is junk, it could never feed a stroker.

I'm not sure what this kit comes with for reference you can look at my stoker build parts list. I doubt your kit comes with a bored TB and the renix TB is garbage. will probably need larger injectors. The head has a lot of casting garbage to grind off. I'd say the biggest lesson I learned from my build was, don't do the 99+ intake $#!&. It accomplishes little and is annoying. I say stroker ONLY if you just want a healthy motor. If you're doing it for power go LS. My Stoker runs amazingly but... I might toss it in my MJ. My xj can handle more skinny pedal than I have. Parts list https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1xTunJzocDmT51AIPQOVKN-plp82W3o7mqS9_Ko1n_K8/edit?usp=sharing

With all new parts it cost me $529. Donor xj for box and wiring cost me $200. Try to get your year... wiring xj changed way too often. My thread https://comancheclub.com/topic/59069-88-chief/ Post with parts/sources

I do but it doesn't have the connectors in there. So I have to know what components it goes to. up to 4 out of 10. Brn/wh LH speaker - (connects to blk/ yellow) Grn/wh LH speaker + Brn RH speaker - wht/blk RH speaker + (connects to wht)

You have a better memory than I. Any chance you keep the wiring for the gray connector in there? C118 I think. Should be speaker stuff and cab wiring I think.

Thanks! where'd you find that?

I'm trying to combine the chassis harness from an 88 mj to the dash harness of an 89 cherokee. I have an image of what I believe is the correct connector on the 88 but need to know the wires, can't find them specified in the diagrams. I believe Orange is pump hot, tan is sender. I believe this is the XJ side.

You all done with yours?

Well the entire AC system is in, it's sitting under vacuum right now and appears to be holding. A couple notable mentions. 1st, the AC heater box has a drain spout in the bottom. The Non AC MJ does have a plug for it you just have to remember to remove it. Luckily all of my cussing getting the heater box in didn't damage the box and pushed the plug out of the way. 2nd, The drier has this fitting cluster F... attached to it. It does not come with the new hoses or the new drier. So there's an Oring I didn't get to replace it's inside the fitting and requires a dental pick. New steering box and pump are in, engine harness is back in. Just need to reinstall the dash, interior wiring, and cooling system.

My friend uses his taco rack for a tent but his is way taller. This thing eliminates a lot of your bed usage.

Just saw a nickintime video on it, he used some newer lines too so I'm sure it'll work out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iaIEI7u8vGg

Here you go https://comancheclub.com/topic/59069-88-chief/?do=findComment&comment=606725

The drivers side rust came from both the clutch MC and the roof leak. The first picture is a massive hole right over the fuel lines I had to weld up. I wrapped them in welding blanket, removed them from their clips and pulled them away with a strap as much as I could. Nothing exploded so we're good. I didn't get a picture of the rust from the MC but it was everywhere the sealant jeep used on the floors did a good job of holding it underneath so it couldn't drain away. I'd be willing to bet anyone that had to replace their fuse block/c100 has hiding rust holes. Passenger side before and after patch, I should have ground it more flat but I was impatient that day. I kept burning through the floor with .30 wire, I'm sure being weakened by rust wasn't helping. I wirebrushed/flap disced everything to metal and sprayed it with rust reformer.