m2bandit

I just used harbor freight screw extractors on my father inlaw's Kia for the stupid philips screws they put on brake rotors. Worked like a charm. Looks like you don't have much to bite into before it hits the dash but I'd say it's your best bet. Heating it would definitely help. If you can shield the area around the screw it would be best. A soldering Iron might be better than a heat gun. Let the screw transfer the heat. I heat gun the ABS parts I make for cosmetic reasons. A few seconds too long and the part is toast. I think by the time the heat penetrated from the dash to the threads you'd have some bad warping.

Yeah I'm not sure what's up, maybe I can slide the console up a hair. Either way the AW4 swap is inevitable. Just when I thought nothing could get worse after both of my vehicles breaking down the employee at Oreilly's said "Hey, You've got a nice Toyota..." I went there to get a new rad hose, I noticed it dripping while greasing up my tierods. Ram is back now, it was a bad injector.

Some actual Tech! I'm putting in a new windshield wiper motor. I decided to go with the 97+ motor since I read rumor it's better. Spoiler: It's probably not. It looks exactly the same. Wiring positions for High and Low are swapped but don't let that deceive you like it did me. The wiring changes at the connector to make things more fun so I'm including all colors. Wiper motor wiring: Old Harness ----- Old Motor ----- New Motor Black -------------Black ------------ Black (Atleast they kept the ground the same) Blue /w white ----- RED -----------RED (LOW) White /w Blk -----White------------Brown (HIGH) Green /w Blk-------Blue------------Green Tan /w Blk ---------Gray -----------Blue My old connectors were corroded so I swapped in weather packs. Always a fan of how well they crimp and keep water out.

Well that was foresight, I guess I should have given it a good safety check. Tierod nut must have came loose and stripped out. There was no cotter key in fact the cotter key hole had a spider eggsac in it. I replaced the nut and ground down the spacer a bit. It was too long to let the castle nut go down far enough. I still don't know what tierods these are they're Jeep taper or atleast very close. Slightly jeep related, well probably more than slightly. I designed some angle grinder wall mounts to clear up some shelf space.

It definitely helped with cab stink, still waiting on the exhaust I ordered to come in since the previous owner cut it off right behind the cat. Got the outer boot on now too, it likes to pop out of first and third now though. Hopefully the boot will soften up a bit.

I had that on my cherokee before I went to tons. Nice steering but pricey. I know a guy with a reamer so I'll probably just up to the chevy 1 ton. Atleast then the rod ends will be the same as my xj.

Thanks I measured the knuckle taper with calipers and the tie rod taper is around 3.4* Which is very close to stock jeep taper so I'm assuming it is. the threaded end appears to be 13/16. I'm going to slap a nut back on it... With a cotter pin and order 1 ton steering. Hopefully my 2019 ram is back from the dealer before long.

Hardware now inlcuded! price slightly increased (.50) but it now includes the 1/4" bolt and nylock required. I think it's worth saving the trip to the hardware store.

I was looking at those but the drag link hole is vertical on this. The 1 tons I've seen the drag link was on the front. I'm not sure if that matters, honestly don't know enough about steering. The tie rod end feels sloppier than my ex wife. It's a bit rusty too. Probably due for a steering overhaul like everything else on this poor truck lol.

Judging by the mud in the pin hole I don't think there was a cotter pin lol. I'm hoping it backed out and the force allowed the nut to strip.

Previous owner installed the steering, and it just so happened to fall off. Luckily in a parking lot. Anyone know what tierod I need?

That is beautiful!

I'm not sure if anyone else makes these but I couldn't find them. So here they are. Made with ABS plastic To make it the strongest possible I sacrificed appearance on the firewall side (as shown in second picture). This can be sanded and painted or for the best result brushed with acetone if so desired. 15.00 Shipped https://www.ebay.com/itm/284556810431

Here they are side by side, right is my broken MJ trim. You can see the left side is a bit longer. It might even still fit though like that. Either way it slides under the back panel so the cut wouldn't be exposed.

Sure, let me make sure the new one works in there then I'd be happy to send it your way.

Thanks, It looks pretty crusty and possibly bound up on something. I can't move it with the linkage at all. I read rumor of the 97+ motors working much better so I ordered one. I happen to have some 5 pin weatherpacks so I'll just convert the connectors to that.

Motor was toast, hopefully that was causing the excess draw. to test for a bad motor: test light black (ground ) to number 2 (white on wiper motor side can't remember jeep side and I closed it up already ) while switch is set to low Test light Dk blue /w tracer to black while switch is high If you've got juice your motor is toast.

Cherokee ones can fit, they look exactly the same. Cherokee one is a bit longer but can be cutoff.

I found the proper pinout for the wiper motor to test for a bad motor test light black (ground ) to number 2 (white on wiper motor side can't remember jeep side and I closed it up already ) while switch is set to low Test light Dk blue /w tracer to black while switch is high If you've got juice your motor is toast. Off to order a new motor.

Not much done today meant to diagnose the wipers but got busy with other stuff around the house. Did put in an inner shift boot, it didn't have one. Hopefully it'll keep the smells out.

Our 2019 Ram left us hanging again cylinder 1 isn't firing and I ruled out spark. It's under warranty but the dealer is booked for 2 weeks. The MJ is now on daily driver duty despite not quite being in the condition for it. I remembered last night I didn't have license plate lights. I purchased some bolts with lights a while back and didn't wire them. After blasting mud out of the connectors ( I guess the previous owner didn't have them either. ) and digging up some bullet connectors they were good to go. Now to fix the dead windshield wipers...

My wipers don't do anything. I checked for juice on both sides of the breaker. Several of the connectors had juice at the motor but I'm not sure what pins are supposed to have what. I read a post that said I should disconnect the wiper control box and connect the connectors without it and that let some smoke out of my wiper switch. I don't know if that means it's bad or it was bad advice. I appreciate any advice.

Thank you sir, I went with the thrush.

How do you like the thrush sound?

Previous owner cut the exhaust off behind the cat. I'm looking to put a flowmaster on with the walker tailpipe. I can weld but no bender so I need it to fit. It looks like it should be center in but flowmasters are a bit bulky.