m2bandit

That's awesome. Well I hope the day I stop selling them never comes. You can get blockoff plates for carling holes on Amazon. I'd make them myself but the Chinese are all over it.

It's so cool to randomly see my parts in a build thread! I'm glad you're happy with them. You've made a lot of progress in a short time, looking good!

With the blinkers working it's finally time to fix the seats so I can get back on the road. I'm not really sure what happened here but the previous owner did a number on it. I purchased new mounts from @krustyballer16 , Here's a link. https://comancheclub.com/topic/55472-reproduction-seat-brackets-and-roll-bar-brackets/ I couldn't fit a wrench or socket into the seat channel so some sacrificial washers did the trick. They'll probably fall out one day and confuse me. The new brackets, will be nice and safe now. Just have to find the hardware I bought for this day...

I definitely encounter this a lot on FB, my products allow me to include shipping in my price though so having the whole thing setup through FB keeps me from waiting on buyers. My biggest complaint happened today. The first time I received negative feedback the buyer said a panel broke due to "pressure from switches" making it sound like it broke during use. When I contacted him he said he used long connectors, probably the heatshrink type. He tried to use the panel to force them to fit. So it was between my panel or 12 connectors on which was going to break first. His review certainly leaves that out... It makes it sound like they broke during operation when it wasn't even reasonable installation. That's messed up, I always hold something when someone's driving no matter what comes up.

My turn signal switch wasn't properly catching and releasing so I replaced that. Not something I want to deal with again any time soon. For this you need a steering wheel puller and an abundance of time. I also had an intermittent blinker issue, I saw the corroded blinker sockets and thought it would be that for sure. Nope! I tried different bulbs, fuses and relays, nothing. Eventually I put the test light at the blinker relay and there was no juice but the fuse had juice. Turned out the fuse connectors were pretty corroded and brittle. Part of the connector broke when I was poking at it. I replaced the one in Power ACC too, for whatever the heck that is hooked to. Blinkers work great now. I did have to rewire one of the new sockets since the info I got online was wrong and I didn't test it before soldering

So next, was interior switch panels, my MJ has blockoff plates and my parts XJ of course had panels that didn't match. All 3 of the clock panels I have didn't work. So I made my own, which I now sell. I also bought a universal stereo mount and the ear I needed broke off so I make that too.

So next up was figuring out why the rear brakes were so bad and the Ebrake let my jeep roll making me chockblock in my driveway. Keeping in tradition of the rusty bits my D44 looked like it had been sitting in a swamp for a bit. The camera flash makes this look way better than it was. While I was in there I noticed slop in the wheel bearings so I replaced those while I was at it. All new hardware for her, including drums. A brake system flush appeared to be long overdue as well. I'm happy to say she now stops well and parks on my driveway without me chock blocking it.

Oof it has been a long time since I posted here. I've done a lot during my absence, including a glorious 2 month long exploration of the great state of Utah. Not sure if I mentioned this but the bumpers packaging was damaged in transit half the hardware was missing and Dirtbound got it squared away immediately. Here's the back bumper finished. And a few shots of the front in adult Lego construction order. No, that's not my toaster.

Thank you, It'll ship today.

Yeah, I tried watching Ebay for 2 weeks and couldn't find any. Luckily I found one from my first XJ to work off of. I should probably chill out but I love making things lol. Your feedback was critical, thank you!

The visor clips I've been testing are now available for purchase. Made with ABS, Temperature resistant, sandable and paintable. As always use coupon COMANCHECLUB for 10% off. https://www.ebay.com/sme/mickofalltrades/Extra-10-off/so.html?_soffType=CodedCouponOffer&_soffid=8079994103&_soprvw=1

Didn't expect that to sell so quickly I'll have more stock soon.

This switch panel allows you to add two switches to the stock panel position to the right of the steering column. Eliminate mislabeled stock switch positions, and center your switches. Or add two switches to the dash replacing your blockoff plate or one switch panel. This is a new panel made of strong, temperature resistant ABS plastic. It fits two Carling rocker type switches (Carling, Contura). The finish is raw ABS plastic that can be painted as needed. Switches not included https://www.ebay.com/itm/284482961005 COMANCHECLUB coupon code for 10% off.

Thank you!

Oh heck, looks like it must be that. Thank you. Do you happen to know what connectors will slide back in there? I might as well do all of the loose ones while I'm at it.

Yep

All new panels will come with this finish. It's much smoother and easier to sand/paint. It is more sensitive to turning glossy when touched before being painted.

Initially the instrument light for the left blinker stayed on while the headlights are on. I replaced both front sockets and now that doesn't happen. (also parking lights work now so that's a plus.) I replaced the flasher relay I checked the fuse, I cleaned the 2 grounds on the inner fender. I'm not sure if those are the right ones. I've replaced all bulbs with incandescent bulbs. I replaced the turn signal switch behind the steering wheel. Hazards work fine. I have 2 theories. 1. I'm missing a ground. Every photo I've seen there's 2 grounds under the dash. I have one large one, I can't find any others around. 2. I'm using a trailer wiring controller to control the tail light blinkers maybe this messes with the weird resistance stuff. Since I started writing this I checked for power at the flasher. It's not getting any. 88 Chief with 89 cherokee interior harnesses.

No, but they're paintable and SEM makes some good matching paint. Final version was sent out to 2 people a few days ago. I made it a bit more rounded like the stock one but... I didn't take pictures before mailing them.

All caught up on orders, if someone would like to post pictures of them installed I'd appreciate it. Since my interior right now is... lacking lol.

Sorry, was just looking for one. I'll have them available for sale soon.

Great, I'll pm you.

Since I'm temporarily caught up on orders, I'm testing visor clips. I don't have the right visors for my MJ right now (or a headliner for that matter) so I'm hoping someone will want a free set. I just want some photos of it installed before and after you color match it, and some feedback. They're slightly different from stock.

Back orders are being produced now, just wanted to update with the quadlock. You still have to buy the arm from ram mounts but I like the quadlock more. I used it on my dualsport for years, plowing through Arizona BLM land without issue and it's much lighter. Quadlock: https://amzn.to/3DgrqJO

A couple things to be aware of. 1. The Ball is extremely strong, however I can't attest to the threads of ball since vibrations will be on them continuously. They'll come pre-assembled with super glue for threadlock. Sounds cheasy but it's the best thread locker for ABS. The Price will be reduced accordingly for the first few months. So the ball is free for now. 2. The dash bezel screw that goes into the cigarette lighter panel cannot be used. It's simply not practical to add it due to the print process. (It would make the panel's face very ugly.) If you're still interested I'll PM you both on monday. New version allows more space for the dash bezel. The bolt shape is also indented on the backside so you can tighten it back up if it gets loose simply by turning your arm.