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Thanks! The condenser is a stock replacement but I did it a couple of years ago so I don’t remember what I installed. My MJ was in storage for about a year and a half. I also have a triple 10” fan setup that kicks on when the ac comes on or when the engine needs the cooling. Keeps the ac working well even when in traffic at idle.

The plate and fin design should provide more cooling surface area so will report back once installed

Indeed this does work. Here are some pics of the conversion and how I decided to go about it:

found The answer I was looking for in post 24 of this thread: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/scarlett-pig-244016/index2/ That is exactly what I’ll do. I’ll let you know how it works. For future reference, although you can find some nos tube and fin evaporators, the part number now interchanges to the newer plate and fin design. It fits well inside the box but does not have a temperature probe provision so one has to fab something up. The 97+ XJs used a low and high side pressure switch. The low side acted as a temperature control switch for the system to keep from freezing up. The 91-96 used the temperature probe and high side switch. As I mentioned before, my temperature switch never shutoff my compressor and my evaporator never froze up even in the heat and humidity of Guam. I’ve had that happen on a mini split ac unit in the house before though. Very annoying lol. The only thing I installed to get my compressor to cycle on and off was the high side pressure switch by the accumulator/dryer. I got a universal inline unit from nostalgicac. Here is the part I used: https://nostalgicac.com/oil-flush-refrigerant-switches/ac-pressure-switch/female-binary-with-inline-switch-port.html when I bought my mj it was stripped clean of every under hood ac part

https://teamcherokee.com/a-c-evaporator-core-assembly-heavy-duty-oem-cherokee-1991-1996/ please save one for me though lol

When my ac was first installed, I had no high pressure switch and it would never cycle off. A/C still worked just fine though. That temperature switch in the evaporator never did anything (perhaps it was faulty??). Once I retrofit a pressure switch into the line the compressor would cycle on and off. Team cherokee has the oem cores for about $125 right now. I’ll have to grab one I suppose and use it. It just takes forever to ship out here. The core I received from rock auto fits in the opening. I could probably fit the temperature probe into the fins on the side just fine. I may try to get it to work or just get the old style

So can I just put the temperature sensor probe into the new core?

Hello all, just removed my dash to get the evaporator core swapped. Turns out that the new part I received from rock auto doesn’t have a temperature probe spot for the old probe. I am on Guam so swapping parts is next to impossible. Can I make this new core work and possibly bypass the temp sensor or reinstall it differently?

My trans mount is new too

Here is a short video clip on the drive home. The phone was able to pick up the noise especially around the last 3-4 seconds of the video. IMG_0911.MOV

I was try to think of what this noise sounds like to give more perspective. The closest think I can think of is a drill press at like 300 rpm drilling lightly into heavy steel. Definitely a metal on metal sound. I wish I could record it clearly

interesting, I’m running black magic pads but they didn’t come with the clips you are referring to. Even with the floating though, I can’t see how they could cause the grinding noise I’m hearing. Also, the noise doesn’t change while braking. I was planning a swap to the pre 90 knuckles for brake upgrades after I fix this stupid noise though.

I’m thinking front diff possibly. Will investigate further.

rebuilt np231 with new output housing/seal and bushing

checked that too and there isn’t any interference.

No difference when turning. The brakes just have the clips for the piston but otherwise they are just floating on the “wings”. It does sound a bit like something rubbing the rotors outer edge but I don’t believe it’s coming from the brakes at all

Also have new front and rear driveshafts and u joints to eliminate that as a cause

Been dealing with a weird noise for a few months now. It first started on a 500 mile drive from Arkansas to Texas. It is frequent but doesn’t have a definite rhythm. It sounds like a bearing going bad. Kind of a lite metal grinding noise almost like a bad u joint. It starts around 20 mph and comes and goes at random intervals. Here Are some more details: new front and rear gears (revolution 4.56) with bearings rear has a truetrac and revolution chronology shafts just replaces the rear axle bearings and seals replaced front unit bearings rebuilt transfer case engine has about 8000 miles since full build new axle shaft u joints Tried transfer case in neutral and ran transmission through all gears (aw4). Tried jacking up rear and running it while listening for noises. Transmission oil is very clean and at the proper level. I am at a loss as to what this noise is. I’m grasping at straws but please let me know if you have any ideas. Also, keep in mind that I’m in Guam so specialized tools are not readily available. thanks in advance!

Too bad he didn’t finish it. It would be worth a good amount to the right buyer.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1985-1992-Jeep-Comanche-pickup-bedside-R725/274168434795?hash=item3fd5b6506b:g:DD0AAOSw4DVeBkNX

Looks simple enough. Thanks!

Interesting design. So is it supposed to weld in place like the old one?

Following. I haven’t tried the new style. Could you post up some pictures of what you have and the part number. I used some nos hinges for my drivers door along with the reinforcement plates from hooligans off-road. Now my passenger side needs to be done.

I run an external voltage regulator and keep it set to 14.5. Works great and gives plenty of power to my electric fans and headlights

How are they different or what needs to be done to interchange? I was planning on cutting of my hinges and installing the reinforcement plate along with new ones.