ghetdjc320

Picked up the NOS coin.

Trying to track down this molding. Took some detailed pics of it. Anyone have any ideas?

Sounds good. Keep an eye on this thread and I’ll let everyone know when they’re ready. Gathering parts in the mean time.

Good info! I used marine grease on all the bushings and mine are respectably fast as well

So does the XJ unit fit the same or what are the differences. Will need to replace my HO unit soon

I haven’t created a list yet but suppose I will start soon. I’m finishing up some switch bezels this week and then will be slammed at work for a month or two. After that I’m planning to focus on these projects. I have one non-ac panel like that one. I’m planning on having a core exchange. I’d pay for the old core that you can send me once you receive your new one. That way we don’t hold up shipping forever and I can keep a rebuild supply.

well, I’ll start off by saying that I am pretty used to towing big loads. The springs are stock 4x4 springs. Trailer didn’t have brakes. For steering, right now I run ZJ linkage with a psc box and pump. No issues at all with steering or driveability other than needing to give myself lots of room to stop.

In regards to the brakes, you will need significantly more pressure to drive rear disks. Despite assumptions to the contrary, stock drums actually have more stopping power than stock disks. However, there are many other reasons to swap. Self adjusting, easier maintenance and better performance (cooling and self cleaning) are at the top of my list. Plus a parking brake that works in both directions. The load sensing valve may work in a pinch if you lengthen the rod to sit higher than normal when level. I deleted mine along with the distribution block a long time ago. Ran all new lines, rear disks, Wilwood prop valve, 2000 XJ booster and MC. Never looked back. But going to add some Wilwood fronts eventually. in regards to the sway bar, I haven’t seen one retained from an 8.8 but adco makes a rear MJ sway bar that some hear have used. For the perches, it’s best to install the axle and get all your measurements just right. Pinion angle is critical plus centering the axle to the truck. Once you have that setup just hit it with a few tack welds then take it out and burn it in

Just finished tcase install and all issues have been solved. While I had it out I blasted and degreased the tranny tunnel and gave it a nice coat of dominion sure seal liner. Took it for a test drive and it’s working great. No noise, no leaks and super smooth. On to the next project (rebuild ebrake assembly)

Just finished the tcase refurb. Lots of cleanup but I wanted everything clean under there. Going to let the sealant cure overnight then cleanup the tranny tunnel and crossmember before reinstalling everything. Took plenty of time to clean and inspect the entire case. To remove the problematic bearing, a strong precision screwdriver did the trick to start folding in one side. See pics for details:

Just grab one from rock auto

Every project is a can of worms on a 30 year old truck but I’ve been taking my time and getting everything working as it should. Doing a rear disk swap and revamping all the rear brake lines, axle lines, vent etc. Had to remove the truss to get things down just right.

Let me know! I’d be happy to grab them

It’s best to keep the bolt in right side up so at the very least gravity keeps it from falling out. Make sure to use lock washers under the nylock nut also.

Wheel spacers are safer at this point than shaving that bolt. The misalignment spacers on the top of your knuckles under the heim could also be a bit shorter.

I plan on picking up several cores over the next couple months. It’s not to cost effective for me shipping wise to just get one panel at a time but if someone has a few they would like to get rid of that would be nice

Yeah that’s a possibility. My wife is an artist and could probably pinstripe them for you. Should last a good while that way

Yep!

Update: I'm thinking about doing these on a core-exchange basis to avoid long shipping wait times but you could still send them in for a refurbish if you wanted to keep your original unit. I'm planning to begin doing these starting in March or April depending on how busy work is (or isn't) these next few months. The plan is to have completely restored units.

Thats definitely possible but would be a one-off unless more want that style

Yeah it’s quite a built 4.0. I never thought I would hear that much engine roaring through the intake. I set my hvac to stay permanently on max so the door to the cowl is shut but I don’t think much will negate that sound. I may end up blocking off the fresh air inlet for the hvac in the cowl. Audio will be coming up soon (about a month or so). Just finished install on the Mishimoto today. Moving on to the rear disk swap next. after that it’s on to the transfer case front output pilot bearing (I hate taking out that stupid bearing). Wilwood front brakes are in the works but I’m still not 100% decided on those yet.

Next project: Morimoto radiator swap

I could I suppose

Updated 12/12/2021 What's available: HVAC Control panels/decks: Are the original HVAC controls in your MJ/XJ giving you trouble? Or are you looking for that finishing touch to a 100% oem restoration? I have been working on these control panels for just over a year now and am restoring them to factory new (and sometimes a bit better). These control panels are completely stripped down and disassembled and rebuilt with all restored parts. New or restored blower motor switches are installed, front bezels are meticulously refinished down to the textured top layer. Even the control knobs are refinished with the oem white striping which is hand painted. The controls are smooth and precise and the vacuum control system is inspected and any faulty components replaced. Each control deck takes several days to complete but add great functionality and finish to your oem dash. Cost: $150 shipped including a $25 refundable core (OR) If you would prefer to restore your existing unit, we offer that service for $125 including return shipping. How to order: Please send me a PM or email me at derek @ dbdguam.com (remove spaces for email) Lead times: Approximately 2 weeks