Warren99

Ok I'll get a new accumulator too

Yea I likely will just skip the floor then, the donor MJ actually still had the like cloth insulation under the carpet. I'll be using that regardless, I just need to get all of the giant shards of rust off the bottom of it.

oh ok

On that note would I be fine with something like 8mm everywhere or do I want more for the floor, doors, and pillars?

butyl?

A/C is out of the parts truck. I figured I'd check if there actually was anything in the system because for the short time that I did have the engine running while it was still in, the compressor wouldn't even kick on, and sure enough there was zero pressure from the valves at the compressor, so I just disconnected the lines before the firewall and removed it.

Noted, I do live in the deep south so I'm not too terribly worried about rust and I should be fixing all of the water leaks I have right now, but if I do put any on the floor I'll be sure to avoid the uniframe caps. Still not sure if I will go with the dynamat or just get some cheap kilmat, although I'm kinda leaning towards that since being a senior in HS I'm still on somewhat of a budget, and I don't NEED the best of the best.

Haha good one Thank you tho, that is a lot of useful advice. I don't think I'm gonna get very in depth with it, I just figured since I'm gonna have the carpet, dash, and window assemblies out, might as well put some sound deadening so it's a bit quieter. Regardless it's gonna be a much quieter ride because right now my truck has no carpet whatsoever

Alright I'll do those and inspect everything else. I think the only thing I will replace a/c wise will be the evaporator, unless I need to get a brand new accumulator as well.

Thats kinda what I was thinking, which type of dynamat should I use?

When I eventually swap the black interior into my truck I wanna put down some sound deadening/insulation on the floor, and since the doors will be gutted for the power windows I might as well put some sound deadening in them too. Any recommendations? Only real name that comes to mind for me is dynamat. I don't need the best of the best I can definitely settle for some cheap stuff.

Oh no I wasn't gonna attempt that lol, just figured if I could spend 15 min of cutting the firewall to get it all out without cracking the lines loose then why not. Also yea I probably will just do the r134a swap this time around then. So I'll need a new accumulator, evaporator and o-rings. That is all I'll need to work in combination with my r12 pump and condensor etc? Lastly, if I do that I'm obviously just gonna get a brand new evaporator since its deep in the dash along with the heater core, but would everything else be fine enough to just get from a junk yard?

I still haven't decided yet but we will see. In other news, funnily enough I might be able to get the evap core out without disconnecting it by cutting the fire wall. I'm dealing with a completely stripped engine bay so it may not be that hard.

I have no idea how many times he's done it but he has definitely done it before. He's an aircraft mechanic and we do all of our maintenance and projects. We will probably attempt it with the r12 cans I have after swapping everything over.

No its just a black interior from an 87 Chief, I was just saying down the road if I found a r134a cherokee what would I need from it. And I would figure getting a pre 97 would be better for my situation.

Do I pretty much have to go to a shop to get the atmosphere evacuated all the way or is it possible to do on my own? My dad has an air vacuum pump and the 3 gauges with hoses.

Alright thank you, I'll have to decide what route I go down for now but I have some time.

Oh ok so it can theoretically sit with the hoses exposed as long as needed, and I'll be fine if I just replace all the O-rings while installing it, then get it properly evacuated before filling?

Idk, I'm planning on putting the new interior in soon, what all new parts would I need to get from a r134a cherokee?

I still have a couple of bottles of r12 and a whole new set of components so the plan was to get the r12 running and when it eventually needs recharged, I'll weigh my options between buying more expensive r12 or the r13a swap. I will eventually do a full r134a swap I just wanna use what I have for now

Alright, but yea the one spun stud was the only thing I was missing

Yea I missed the one in the bottom passenger side corner, I forgot to come back to it after the stud started spinning. I'm just gonna cut it but not tonight. And oh ok I thought you were saying the saran wrap to prevent the hoses from bleeding to atmosphere.

What’s the process for removing the hvac box from the dash, literally every vid on yt is of a 97+ XJ. I removed the nuts from the studs on the firewall, removed the blower motor, and removed this one bolt from the inside but the box won’t move. It feels like that one big seal is holding it on

Oh ok, but can you elaborate on the plastic wrap part, why is it on the evap core like that when the ends of the hose are wide open, what purpose does it serve?

I was just out there looking and noticed that. I think my best course of action is to take apart the hvac box until the accumulator is completely free minus the hoses going thru the firewall, then disconnect the hoses, pull it out of the cab, and immediately reconnect the hoses so the system is sealed again, then it can wait til I'm ready to put the a/c parts in my truck. Is the accumulator the only a/c component on the interior side of the firewall within the hvac box?