87mjdriver

I have the rusty's tube. then I took a piece of cardboard and cut and folded it to the shape I wanted, then I took that in to a HVAC company and they bent a piece of aluminium up for me.

but yours looks real good

I always used a brand new roll of duct tape. take it out of wrapper then carefully slap into place were you want it the side of the roll sticks it to the carpet

I wish they would update thier sit with this, and prices

both long bed and short bed sliders, for short and for long pretty good price. they have a rear bumper too it looks well built, long frame brackets, bu the face is kinda simple. I think i like the look of protfabs better, but I am not sure if they are producing theirs yet

I got another idea for that tire carrier. take your tailgate off and have the protofab guys put a bend in the verticle arm so the tire sits at a 45* angle, it would look sorta like that tire gate thing, but look better and be a lot more resonable priced. 3 cheers for the protofab guys though, for listening to customers and coming out with a very good looking bumper.

I have found some by googling, that were the soft type on a frame and struts so it can be opened up, I can't remember the company but one actually had them listed for comanches and they would custom trim it to work with a bed box, and it was only 350$

nice avatar from the bridge of a 225'

I mounted mine inside the truck bed tool box in the back. it works great it t9ook a bit of time to do. I routed the wiring from the cab of the truck on the floor and out the stock exit location just aft of the driver seat. Then drilled a small hole in the bed wall and came up thru the back of the truck box. its quiet when activated and it doesn't crowd the engine bay.

COD 4 on 360. guess what my screen name is . . . . . . . . . . . . .MJDriver

I just used some silicone sealant on the engine bay side, and sealed around the fuse box opening.

I have a had a bunch of problems with mine. I used to just pull out the tire iron and give it a couple good wacks. and then I spent a few minutes and took off all the battery cable connections (one at a time)and wire brushed them clean. that fixed it.

but for the guy that doesn't have a welder or a buddy with a welder this is a great option. also great for someone that just wants the look of a lifted jeep. not everyone likes to pound their truck into the dirt. and after it is set up and the driver feels like he might push the limits (wheel hard) he can drive it to a shop and and pay a very minimal price and have a couple welds put on. another thing, I have been in the coast guard for 10 years, 7 of those were spent in very small coastal towns, there isn't always a pro 4x4 shop to go drop your truck off and have a suspension installed with some modification. the best one could hope for is a les shwab tire center that mastered the art of putting on 8 to 12 inches of lift on a leaf sprung ford, chevy or dodge. like icurunnin pointed out: lay of the guys that have decided to build stuff for our rare trucks and not all the mainstraem rigs

I wish that was around 5 or 6 years ago when I did my lift.

I wish that was around 5 or 6 years ago when I did my lift.

JCR offroad is looking for long bed mj's to do mock ups for sliders and rear bumpers. They have a thread started on naxja in the vendor section. anyone with a nice looking longbed live near kalamazoo MI?

U.S. Coast Guard Boatswain's mate 2nd class (E-5) Been in almost 10 years, jeez I gotta advance. 378' out of seattle surf rescue station in southern oregon 210' out of astoria, oregon moving to a small boat station in georgetown SC

holy crap this thread got long winded. but real good info. Eagle's post really explains why I enjoy driving my renix MJ, It rarely sees 3,00 RPM's. The post opened my eyes to my engine behavior. I can remeber when I had 3.07 gears and 30 inch tires and got an honest 21 MPG. my step dad could not belive that my old truck got better milage than his new izuzu. Anyway, Renix motor. mandrel bent exhaust. 2.25 or 2.5. I am not going for noise. just mileage and not to lose power.

I have a borla header already installed, and I am going to be replacing the whole rusted exhaust system from cat back. free flow cat and muffler. Should I bump the dia. up to 2.5. I haven't decided how far back to run the tail pipe yet, would that make any diferance. either straight out the tail or between the frame and rear spring exiting aft of the tire but tuvked out of the way.

Ya know after I wrote that post I started thinking how to prevent it. I thought about making a shield out of aluminium, and then thought about relocating too. If you get yours done you should post up some pics.

alright so I picked up a fuse block that is in good condition. I bought it a while ago. knowing that mine would eventually rot out. A few years ago I cleaned mine to prolong it. Well Grime reaper is riding shotgun cause my block is starting to fall apart. the wires are seperating at the fuse connection. so What is the best way to fixx this? I have thought of to ways to approach it. 1. start pulling the clipped in power strips in the in service block and transfer them to the new block. just fixing the wires that need it. 2. I have new terminals (the terminal bars) on the way. I have about six inches of wire from the new block. clip the wires. put them in new terminals clip them into the good block. pull old block off the bulkhead and clip ALL the old wires and splice them to the tails off the new block. I hope this makes sense, and some one that has done this can chime in. Thanks guys

replaced both rear bulbs. one was totaly messed up. and the front blinkers don't work either. where is the turn signal switch. is it the lever you hit to signal? and previously I had turn signals but no brake lights. now I don't have either. greatly appreciate the help guys.

could you elaborate on where you found the problem? I have the same issue right now. bypassed the brake pedal switch and still nothing. I have tail lights, no brake lights or turn signals or reverse lights for that matter, but I think that is a seperate issue. allen

I read the other thread. keep mj prop, cap the front bottom line (which is the failure back up) figure out which line going into the "T" is the main supply. then connect that line to the hard line that connects to the rubber hose thus bypassing the heigth valve I run 35's so the chance of lock up do to a high pressure would only slow me down not lock up.

ya I was just under my rig looking at all that stuff. It looked like you could take apart that "T" that is forward of the heigth valve and just use a coupling to go straight into the rear line.