nitroxsteve

I used the one from advance and I' sure it was longer just not sure how much. I had plenty of room for the extra cable. I pushed a little more into the engine compartment and a bigger bend in the rear section. I have about 10K miles on it with no problems.

The cam bearings are pushed into the block so you will need to have them installed when you have the block machined. Also I usually have the machine shop istall the freeze plugs and they supply them. and don't order anything untill the machine work is finnished and you know what is needed.

The cam bearings are pushed into the block so you will need to have them installed when you have the block machined.

Part number 03269 at Advance Auto $20.89 It fit my 88 fine in both 2wd and 4wd arrangements.

My truck cranks along time when starting. Its an 88 4.0 and I think the RENIX engines crank a few times before starting anyway. I was reading on a anouther forum that the engine will run with the distributor unplugged but will take longer to start. So I tried it and it does start but didnt seem to take any longer than normal. It is a rebuilt distributor from advance auto and the reason I replaced it was the gear was worn bad and I didnt want it to wear on my camshaft. It runs the same as the old part. How do you know if it is working corectly if it runs fine unplugged? I have checked and cleaned all of the connections and everything looks good. If anyone has any Ideas let me know. Thanks,

on my 88 I found two small holes in the body seam directly below both corners of the rear window about 3"-4" down. It looks like they were there for the life of the truck.

Why not just paint the the gutter and then when you find the drip rail covers just snap them on. I don't think they look that bad without te covers but if you cut them off you will probably have leaks and then there is no going back. Just my two cents.

I think I have read somewere they make a high altitude crank sensor for RENIX 4.0's at what altitude are these needed and how are they at sea level? I have found that at 3,000-3,500 feet it cranks alot longer than at lower elevations. Thanks,

My 88 4.0 with fresh everything including bearings runs 18psi at idle at operating temp and around 45 at crusing speed.

My driver door was the same way. I took it apart and added a big washer to clamp it back into place and it has worked fine for the last two years. If I remember correctly I got a new catch from the JY because this one was rough shape and I think thats what caused the crack.

Thanks for the replys.

I need the plastic inner fender for the front of my 88 and would like to know what years will work from a Cherokee. Thanks,

New (used) Drive shaft fixed it.

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The shaft is splined all the way up and can be cut to the proper length.

Can anyone tell me how much of the output shaft should be sticking out past the mounting flange? I am changing the tail shaft housing on a 2wd trans to 4wd. I measured and calculated but I don't have a 4wd trans to compare it to. Thanks,

Yep they usualy make noise but this one the cage came apart and all of the needles bunched up and locked the shaft. It makes it a little hard to remove the trans as well.

If the bearing is seized to the input shaft then the fly wheel and the input shaft turn at the same speed just like the clutch is not released. I am instlling a complete new clutch kit anyway as it was under warranty but was thinking of using a better bearing than what came in the kit.

It was the pilot bearing. Is there a bushing available instead of a bearing?

134A in my 88 and it works fine.

What happens to the slave cylinder that causes it to stop working? I would think if the seal was bad it would have an external leak.

Thats what I was afraid of, its the one that came in the clutch kit and I can't remember the brand.

1988, 4.0,5speed, New clutch,slave cylinder,pilot bearing, and release bearing with around 3,000miles. It will sometimes not go into gear or shift and when sitting at a stop I can feel the clutch trying to engage. I noticed this once earlier this week and then it drove fine for a couple days and the started again today. Can the master cylinder be bad? fluid is good and no leaks. Thanks, Steve

I have been kicking around the idea of using a rear seat from a Wrangler. The Wrangler seat has detachable hardware that would allow the seat to be easly removed for storage. It also folds down if you want to put a tonneau (is that spelled right?) cover over it.

Said no such thing. Said he replaced the stick and handle. Anybody here familiar with Henrys' first products? 1908 Model T Fords. Very unique oil checking system. No dipstick. No gauge. Just a petcock on the bottom of the oil pan. Open the petcock. If oil came out you were OK. No oil, you added a qt. Must of been hard on engines if that was the last drop in the crankcase. My Bad. If thats the case anouther option is to go to the Pull-A Part and get a dipstick for $3.42.