nitroxsteve

FYI: In case anyone in the charlotte area is looking there is an 87, 4cylinder, auto trans, 4x4 in the pull a part in Charlotte NC. If your looking for good gears it may have them but I have not pulled the covers to check.

Thanks Thats what I was thinkin.

Sorry I'm not much help past the Bulbs. Also this should be in the tech section and you,ll probably get more help. I don't know how to get it moved.

The factory box is no good its all streached out and the filter will not seal. When searching the junk yard for a replacement I found a cherokee with a rustys tube and picked it up for $6.00 and thought I would give it a try but I'm not real happy with the sound. The engine is new and I don't want the air filter to leak and allow dirt to suck in. I picked up a later model box in good shape but the tube is in a different location and won't hook up.

When I brought my tuck home all the light bulbs were shot. Have you looked at those yet?

Thanks Thats what I was thinkin.

Does the Rustys air tube make a whistling sound at part throttle.

How long does your 4.0 crank before starting. My truck is an "88" with a rebuilt engine, new crank sensor, Cap, Rotor button, plugs, wires, and knock sensor. It seens to turn over a few times before it fires and I'm wondering if thats normal. Thanks,

About 15 years ago in Nashville I had a friend whos Thunderbird could not pass emissions testing. The car had dual exhaust so he put 4 new plugs in the right side of the engine and removed the left tail pipe in front of the axle. Had the car retested and they only put the probe in the right pipe and the car passed because they were only testing 4 of the 8 cylinders. At the same time I had a 1975 Camaro that would pass all of the sniffers tests but I couldnt get it to pass because it failed the visual inspection because it had no CAT. I asked the guy if I needed a complete new exhaust and he said no just put a Cat on it. I asked him if the dual exhaust would pass inspectin if I put two Cats on and He informed me that my car didnt have dual exhaust it came from the factory with one Cat and thats all I needed. The inspector couldnt tell the car had dual exhaust!!!

try using a square extractor I have found with pipe threads the round extractors spread the fitting tighter into the threads instead of us screwing it. You may need to drill and tap I just don't know where the shavings will go. sorry I'm not mch help.

I thought that was why we all have Comanche's? Easy to work on.

I used the ACC rubber floor and the fit was real bad. It was molded but not to my floor. If I could do it over I would have searched the jy fpr a good used mat or carpet.

Or just your auto parts store. If you have a valve job done who ever does that can probably sell you the needed gaskets.

It depends on your definition of a rebuild and how far you plan to go. I am currently rebuilding my 4.0 and I'm doing a complete rebuild so ill let you know how I went about this one. I dissasembled the engine and dropped off the block, crank, head, and, pistons/rods. I had the block cleaned, bored 0.040, new cam bearings and freeze plugs installed. I had the head checked for cracks and when it checked out I had them do a valve job. I also needed the crank turned 0.020. The Machine shop I used is also an auto parts store so they put a kit together for me at a price I cold not beat. I will be installing new gaskets, pistons, bearings,oil pump, cam, lifters, and timing set. This will all set me back $1050.00 including all the parts and the machine work. I don't think thats too bad considering I should have the same as a new engine when finnished. If things in your engine are still good you can do it alot cheaper than this and your parts list will depend on the condition of your parts. For example if you don't need to bore the cylinders you may not need new pistons. You may be able to do what I call an over haul with new rings,bearings, and gaskets. Also your 4 cyl should also be a little cheaper considering two less pistons. Good luck with the rebuild.

I thought the off road fuel was Dyed red.

Sucks you can't get it to run but when you figure it out you will probably need some high speed bumper bolts and chrome foot gas pedal just to keep it under controll.

I plan to pull my engine this weekend and rebuild it. I'm planning to go back mostly stock but was wondering if anyone has any ideas on adding a little better performance. What Cams Are you running? by the way its a 88 4.0 5speed. Thanks

When I am looking for an leak I run a little seafoam thru the intake and look for the smoke. Years ago I used trans fluid but I'm not sure if thats good for the engine or not.

Thanks for the pick that helps. I already installed the lift and I'm shopping for tires now I'm thinking about 30's to help with power and gas.

anyone have a photo of their MJ with 30/9.5 and a 3" lift?

This may sound stupid but what are spamers and how do I recognise them?

I need a Tailgate I don't mind a little rust along the bottom as long as its not bent up too bad.

Thanks thats what I was needing to know.

I am looking for a 231 t-case are the ones connected to a auto the same as the ones on a 5speed?

I have read a few other posts about this but it doesn't seem like anyone has a solution to the problem. my truck leans to the driver side about .5-.75". Its an 88, 2wd,4.0,and 5speed. I am working on a 4wd conversion and have installed the front axle with new controll arm bushings, tierod ends, and track bar. It has a new 3" rusty's lift with rear AAL and new shocks. I had the same lean before all the work and was hoping the new front springs would fix it but no luck. I have had the front end alligned and have driven it for several months so the springs have setteled in. I think its the fuel tank dragging it down but didnt know what I could do about it. Has anyone found a soulution? THANKS