Green Mesa XJ

This place has what a pdf they say is for the cruise control system 84-90. I don’t know if it is correct http://jeep-manual.ru/index.php?page=78 The part description for the wiring with the relay is called “instrument panel jumper” by jeep, no idea what it does. Maybe somebody will recognize it and what it does. Might be a to integrate aftermarket alarm, only other reference to that part # in google was guy guy cleaning up a alarm. For the old style cruise control to work it’d need the control stock, vacuum servo, speed sensor, brake, clutch, maybe something to tell it if it’s in drive but I’m not sure about that. I messed with fixing 80s&90s Cruise control but never on a automatic at least not to the point of chasing wiring. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Was this the jeep with the wiring part #P05010002AA? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Looked at my 84 & 86 Jeep electrical trouble shooting books, no mention of any kind of alarm. Although 1986 has a listing for keyless entry module . I didn’t know that was a option for the AMC XJ/MJ. On the schematics the keyless entry module was powered off the dome fuse, feeding power to the vanity lights and door locks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I’m not aware of one in the 84-86. I’d guess Aftermarket is there is one. I’ll take a peek at the electrical trouble shooting some time. Left side instrument display and a bunch of vacuum arrays? Not sure I follow, the only XJ I’ve seen with extra vacuum connections were the select track with a vacuum switch in the middle of the center console where the coin tray goes to engage the 4wd system. Solid front axel not CAD. Those XJ had a lot more options, like a dash clock with all kinds of computer leads and lights. Except for the Air box I don’t think the dash had vacuum actuators. Now the carbureted engine bay has all kinds of vacuum arrays and switches for stuff like mixture and emissions. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Is the starter lose? Also agree about the flexplate possibly being chewed up Reloaded the thread to see Dirty Comanche beat me to it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Looks like axel vent to me Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Thanks Pete M and Jeep Driver. I’m just trying to figure out worst case costs and parts availability, which is tremendous if any 2.5 is a contender. My bet would be the Renix troubleshooting would get it running. I doubt the 2.5 is bad. Biggest obstacle is rolling her eyes at me for wanting another Jeep and a project Jeep at that. Probably should have waited until after the 14th to mention it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Cool. So 84 to 90? 95? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

There’s a 2.5 5speed 4x4 86 XJ near by for sale not running. And I’m tempted. I know it’s probably the Renix so maybe the troubleshooting will get it back to running. Being 5speed it should have 4.10 gears. But the np207 and ax5. I could make it a 2.8 v6 or some bastardization there in. But I thought the 2.5 engine was supposed to be pretty good. Little sister to the 4.0 and all of that. For the sake of curiosity if the engine were kaput what year 2.5 block or engine would work? I know the 4.0 and newer 3.7 v6 have a much wider interchange than the parts catalogues say. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I swapped my 85 XJ to the 3 spoke style. The original horn button didn’t work, I never could find all the parts to fix it right, touched the wire to a ground to work the horn for years. Also I wanted the 3 spoke style steering wheel anyway so grabbed one off a junker with all the screws and accessories. I broke that plastic tube that sticks up, back then auto zone carried a help! parts replacement from a GM steering column that worked fine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Sounds like a mess. With these jeeps in general there is a engine harness, dash harness, & the body harness to which things like taillight harness and stuff like that plug into. Engine harness and hash harness have one big bulkhead at the fire wall where they literally bolt together. (Behind the fuse box) In the drivers side kick panel the dash harness leads away from the firewall towards the door jam, that’s around where the body harness begins. There are two plugs in the Cherokee that carry lights, turn signals, fuel gauge, stuff like this to the back of the vehicle. If you dig deep into troubleshooting I’d try to see if the body harness is getting the power or not where it plugs in to the dash harness. If it’s ok, then the dash and engine harness should be ok. If it’s not then the dash harness maybe damaged someplace. Dash harness is easier to source than the body, especially for a MJ I’d imagine. In situations like these you’ve got to forget where the problem is and work backwards from where the source of whatever signal is wrong. Sounds like you had cowboys playing in the electrical, could be a reason for it like a wreck or dash fire, or maybe it’s just the cowboy way. I don’t know the MJ well. I know XJ well enough but some of the folks here probably will have better advice on how to fix this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Real cool. I didn’t think of a side fill port replacing the dipstick. It’ll make maintenance easier, might miss the quick access for checking levels the dipstick provides, if I am honest I’d rather pull the plug and check the level. On later jeeps they don’t include dipsticks and the generic Mercedes style dipstick is a pain to read correctly I replaced the f150 and commanders oil pans with new ones that had drain plugs, if this were cheaper it’d be tempting. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

On the 3.4 swap this guy has a good write up, one of the pioneers it’s a old site but he keeps it online I guess because people still use it. Also plenty of good threads here on the topic as well. I’m honestly shocked how many of these old 84-86 jeeps are still being repaired. I was going to say still in the road but that might be a stretch. One of the threads here we were talking about other v8 that could drop in with the same bellhousing pattern. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Project_XJ/Project_XJ.htm Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

When I finally replaced the original battered tank in my XJ the sock/filter designated, I think it was as I removed it, could be years before I don’t know for sure. It was a pain to find because most catalogues get these first run jeeps parts wrong. Someone in one of the forums posted the right part I think it was correctly listed in a same era carbureted wrangler part catalog. If the sock deteriorated it may have sucked up rust and clogged the line someplace. If it is I guess just disconnect the line from the tank and from the engine bay push compressed air through until it clean the line out. That’s is the in tank filter can’t be cleaned and replaced. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

The rear drive shaft breaking free of the yoke bent and linked my fuel line but I got back home with limited fuel being supplied, believe me on the hills I thought it would stall because it ate the fuel up faster that it pumped. I was just suggesting the fuel flow be tested to see how much is being pumped and what condition. After one of the hurricanes here (years ago) on my Dad’s old Chrysler I disconnected the fuel line from the mechanical pump and hooked up an external pump from my old car, worked beautiful, got about two days of gas for the generator. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Is the noise coming from the pump or engine? You might try disconnecting it from the carb and see what it pumps out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Hmmm. I’m not sure what that pump is. Looks kind of like ones Holley used to sell. Looks like it connects to the fuel line and goes straight to the carb. So the original pump is out of the equation, not sure where the return line is routed. well there are three lines, a return line and vent too. As long as the direction/ the inlet and outlet are pumping right it ought to get fuel to the carb. A lot of unknowable things just looking at pictures. The mechanical fuel pump would be to side of the engine mount towards front of the motor, doesn’t look like much, on every model after 1986 it’s either a plate or a blank spot where the pump would go. What do you know about the history of this MJ? Was it running when bought? If it ran with this setup before I’d think just check it set up the same and on the right fuel line, maybe test pump some fuel out in to a cup or bottle to see if it works up to that point. I’m kind of leaning towards a bad fuel pump. WHat kind of sound is the ticking? If the engine is toast you can upgrade it to a 1995 Camaro 3.4 which is a stronger engine, bolt per bolt a 2.8, just swap over all the accessories like a long block swap. Other motors with that bolt pattern that will bolt up as well, you’ve already got the electric fuel pump you’d need for a 3.4 swap. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I use the Tapatalk app, they host the picture and you can pick how big the image is. On the laptop I hit the data limit uploading pictures and refreshed the page to add more pictures. Not sure where the limit is but new phones can blow away a few mb with a high resolution image. Sometimes I email myself the pic so the phones software resizes it to inbox limit sizes. Far as resizing the image through software it’s kind of tricky, I’ve helped set a forum up, we used a mod but had to change it a couple of times because the way it resizes images wouldn’t always work in all browsers. Not sure which php mod finally worked, if trying to set it up today I’d try to copy however Wordpress utilizes uploaded images and resizing. The current WP is much more streamlined than most php forums or even Wordpress 6 years ago. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Originally it’s a mechanical pump on the side of the block. Whatever Electric pump is there is done by a Previous owner. So at some point we can assume the mechanical fuel pump died and they just wired in a new electric pump, the way these usually go is the original pump is left as is and the lines are routed to the new electric pump. something in the mechanical pump could have finally fully failed blocking the fuel flow. The mechanical pump is activated by the camshaft, maybe the odd clicking sound is related. Very strong possibility that 2.8 is not original and might be a newer block with no place for the fuel pump, you’d have to check it and see if the original pump is there. Or something else further down in the fuel in the line blocked, But those after market generic pumps are notoriously bad, so it could just be bad luck. The 2.8 fuel sender does not have the place for the jeep fuel pump although the 1986 plug had the place to put a power wire, but it just a blank place into the plug casing. In theory a 87-90 fuel sender with electric pump may work, but have to match it to the tank and a way to power the pump, not sure if the body harness would have the power wired in. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Huh. I never noticed a year on mine, maybe it’s too dirty or just weird. Got it from a body shop lord knows what the hells happened to it over the years. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

On very old AMC jeeps (84-86 for sure) the emissions label don’t have the year, and on mine the door label is unreadable, so vin is the only clue to what year it is. But I doubt there are very many that old in the JY. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

You may not have a lot of options, for plugs and stuff any early XJ 84-95 should be a source. Dash harness there is no interchange on, I’d assume 87-88 are the same, possible 89-90 as well, I know 91 changed. I used a 88 XJ dash harness with a 86 engine harness, which shouldn’t have worked except I think because 86 was the first Renix year jeep had already changed bulkhead plugs even on the gm v6. I’m not sure what to tell you about the wagoneer headlight harness, got to be damn rare now. Should be repairable, I’d think the headlight harness plug would be the same or close to it as the regular XJ & MJ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Here is s link talking about ZJ security might be helpful http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/security-system-bypass-169865/#/topics/169865 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Those pcm are similar but I don’t know of anyone swapping XJ for ZJ pcm. As I recall there was early security in the grand Cherokee. Not sure how it worked, the same era Toyota security was door lock based, no fob control. If anything but the drivers door unlocked first the alarm would go off and the car was disabled until it was reset. Radio had some lame security code thing too. But that’s Toyota not sure how the early jeep security worked or how to bypass it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I have the electric troubleshooting books, be a few days before I could dig them out. But they way I’d approach this is I’d source another steering column not even bother trying to figure out what the hell is wrong with that one. I’ve replaced the the turn signal wiper switch, it was a pain to do. Never want to take the column apart like that again. I’d be more replace over repair screwed up wiring. I’ve tried sorting out electrical gremlins and previous owner repairs, the way I think about it now is to source a harness in good shape and just replace it. Maybe a junk yard to clip a few plugs with enough wire to match it up. Nice thing about the XJ/MJ is the wiper modules and most of the electrical plugs stay the same 1984-94. Stuff like engine harness and bulkhead plugs change every so often but the plug for fog lights, wiper, defrost, radio, rear wiper, stayed the same or similar. If you can find a 87-88 dash harness it might be worth having on hand if there are any more surprises. I don’t know how much effort you’d want to put into this wagoneer, if it’s just for off road fun you might be able to live with some of the flaws. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro