Dzimm

It could be a number of things. If the trucks have different transmissions, gears, 2wd vs 4wd it will make a huge difference. If they have the same driveline, I'd suspect the 90 may just need a tune up or has more mileage/wear/lived a harder life. Something as simple as different sag rate in the springs/suspension could throw off the aerodynamics of the truck and give you worse gas mileage. Keep in mind these things are 30+ years old. Even still 17/22 is pretty decent for gas mileage. My auto trans XJ and MJ get about 19mpg and 21mpg respectively on the highway. My 5 speed MJ gets around 21-23mpg highway if I don't drive it hard.

Probably gonna go with an eBay special since it seems they aren't complete trash anymore and are a low enough price my wife won't hate me quite as much. When the time comes to buy it, maybe I'll decide to go with a better turbo. I'll have to look at my notes to confirm but from memory it will be a T3/T4 .48 A/R 50trim. I read up on what guys have used on 4.0L and what they got from it. From that I got this to be the best option for relatively low RPM spool ~1500-2000 rpm iirc and pretty decent performance boost overall. can't really find any solid Dyno numbers or really much of any solid info on a turbo 4.0L because nobody does it so I think I'll be piecing together information and figuring it out mostly on my own. This all depends on what the truck does after the axle and tire swap. I may change my mind on what I go with after I get an idea of what it drives like.

Will do thank you!

Sooo I bought it, gonna give this a shot. After watching a few videos and doing some more research I'm pretty confident I can do it and now is the time to do it since the axle isn't in the truck yet. The carrier has new bearings on it already. I probably won't touch the pinion aside from the seal if I don't have to. That would just leave the pinion and outer shaft bearings original.

So the only shims in the C8.25 are between the pinion and pinion bearing. The carrier has adjusters that require a tool that goes in through the axle tube to adjust the preload. It looks to be pretty darn simple to do. Especially since I won't be messing with the pinion aside from the seal. I suppose though with a new carrier, would you need to reset the pinion depth? I'd be looking at $60 to get a dial indicator and the preload tool.

Oh yeah I misunderstood what you said. I thought you meant without removing the yoke.

How do you replace the pinion seal without pulling the pinion? I don't see how that's possible.

What are the chances it all goes back in with the new carrier and needs no adjusting? I was actually thinking I should pull the pinion and replace that seal since it would be completely apart. Currently it sits entirely stripped with the exception of the carrier and pinion. All new seals and everything are going in, I remember reading a while back that the C8.25 used a crush washer or something on the pinion making it a PIA to change the seal.

My Dana 30 had the shims outside the bearings. Did you mean the 35 has the shims inside? I can't imagine a rebuilder would press bearings on if they need shims on the inside.

Is the case spreader necessary? I pulled the gears out of a D30 to replace the pinion seal and put it back in without one.

Well that makes it easier because the bearings are already installed. I would need to order the measuring toosl though. It would literally be bolt in for me aside from setting everything to spec. Id research the crap out of it before attempting. In the gears you've setup, have you ever had an issue? The part I don't understand yet is how you read the marking compound. I've never come across a good explanation of it.

I know it can be done, I'm looking to get an idea of how feasible it is for me to do it. I'm very mechanically inclined, I've just never done gears before and would like to try it out but also don't want to break things. I came across a good deal on a rebuilt posi for my C8.25 but don't have the budget to pay a shop to put it in. Is it as difficult to do as people make it out to be? I'm only swapping out the carrier so no actual regear will happen, just checking everything for proper clearance, shimming, ect.. For those of you who have done regears ect. Before, what's your thoughts?

I'm pretty doubtful that will seal up completely but you never know. At this point I'd put quite a bit of rtv or some kind of sealer on it and hope. If you are lucky it will only drip like all Jeeps do.

Ordered the tires! They should be here Friday. I wanted to go with Goodyear to stay true to the Archer trucks but they didn't have many options in this size and the reviews were subpar. BFG offered more options and they are a better tire from what I've read. I went with all seasons over summer tires because I will still drive this truck regularly enough that it will see some colder weather. From my research, these are pretty dang good tires for the money and should provide ample grip for this truck.

Wheels stripped down Leaf springs prepped for paint The wheels, leaves, backing plates, caliper brackets, and a few small pieces currently sit in primer. I've still got the brake line brackets and bolts in the electrolysis bath for another couple hours and they should be good for paint. I really like this satin light gray on these wheels for some reason. I sent the backing plates and caliper brackets through electrolysis again to get the last bits of rust off so I didn't get quite as far as I'd hoped today. I am now very much in the camp of electrolysis though, the parking brake levers were seized up and after sitting in the bath for a while they came out clean and moving freely. Took them apart and finished cleaning to bare metal and they are like brand new. It's fantastic and only costs a few bucks for washing soda or baking soda and a few hours time.

It's bolting through plastic so you'd want to use a nylock nut and yeah just go until the plastic is lined up, no torque on it whatsoever.

You could just use a nut and bolt with washers, just make sure to use stainless. You may be able to find plastic clips of some kind at the parts store that would work. I'm sure a ziptie would work as well.

Go back and check everything you touched first. You may have forgot to plug something back in or a wire could have come loose in a plug somewhere. It's always best to go back and check everything you worked on when it stopped working before checking other things. You'll start introducing other potential issues if you don't back track.

Did the trans slide nicely into the crank? If you had to use the bolts to cinch up any Gap it's likely not aligned properly. It should slide right up flush with the block easily. It's surprisingly easy to screw it up if you aren't careful, I learned it the hard way and had a crazy grinding/scraping sound when trying to start.

Luckily the temperature was in the 50s today and I got to spend the majority of the day in the shop!! Ground the axle almost entirely to bare metal and all the rust is removed aside from the surface rust in the crevices I just can't get to. I am using better paint for this truck and used Napa industrial/automotive primer and Krylon Industrial Rust Tough paint. I used the rust tough on my XJ wheels and it held up to the road salt all winter and is holding up much better than any spray paint I've used. It's a little pricy at $9 a can though. I did two coats of primer, a coat of flat black paint, then a coat of black semi gloss. I think I like the look of the flat black better so I'm going to get some flat clear coat to go over everything to further protect it as well as knock the shine back down some. The backing plates and caliper mounting brackets are being reused (everything else is getting replaced) so I used my wire wheel on them to get all the loose stuff off and am doing a few hours of electrolysis on them. I'm currently on the last caliper bracket. They are going to soak in soapy water overnight and I'll see what they look like in the morning. They may need a couple more hours in the electrolysis bath. Tomorrow I'm hoping to get the backing plates, caliper brackets, and wheels cleaned up and painted.

I'm to the point that any fluid is good enough for these Jeeps as long as it's the properly rated fluid. I've used expensive stuff, I've used the cheapest stuff, they all work just fine and I personally haven't seen an issue with any of them. Never heard of Harvest King tho, where'd you get it from? Sounds like something I'd find at tractor supply.

Oh yeah, you should also do thermostat and gasket while it's off. ALWAYS use the proper 195* thermostat.

Ahh yeah that'd be an issue.

Meanlemons does Renix. Not sure about 2.5L though and idk if he has any in stock

To me the TB is a cheap enough thing I'd just buy a replacement and send yours in for a core. Good time to go bored if you'd like.