cruiser54

that's a top priority.

My granddaughter. She's almost 11 now. Great helper. Even uses power tools.

Only improved the output. Did you hold the sensor down against the bell housing while tightening?

Maybe you should drill out the hole in that and use it. Did you drill the new Napa one?

what did the old CPS read?

You're testing for AC milli volts, right?

LOL.

Wait til you get to be my age........

are you $#!&ting me? That would be impossible. LOL.

You drill the CPS on the workbench.

Gonna drill the upper hole? Keep this in mind when going back together.

That rubber grommet is what the fuel pump assembly mounts into. Not sure if you can get them new, but I bet someone around here has a spare.

This stuff works great. That said, I have a handful of those stock used lights in various stages of disrepair if anyone wants them.

I'm thinking just solder the wires together and skip any connectors. Those connectors were poor.

In a nutshell, those connectors worked like $#!& when they were new. Imagine how they work now, especially when they're @#$%ed up.

Soldering is fine.

Probably not the only thing wrong.

Coolant sensor and Fan switch are 2 different things. SENSOR mounts on driver side engine block and sends input to the ECM. Fan SWITCH is located low on the driver's side radiator. SENDER is located at the driver side rear of the head and sends signals to dash gauge.

The heated intake manifold likely had to do with emissions in all types of weather. Fuel and air traveled together through the manifold. I only experienced "icing" on my Nissan Patrol with an aluminum one barrel to two barrel carb adapter. The mechanical fan blew a ton of cold air on the adapter and caused issues. My Redneck solution was wrapping the adapter with ethofoam insulation held on with zip ties. Worked great. MPFI only air travels through the intake. I say try it. Couldn't a guy just loop the hoses together in the name of science?

I saw that after I posted. LOL. I've only ingested 20% of a mug of coffee.

Does the electric fan come on during this "overheat" time without activating it with the AC? Still have the coolant bottle on the passenger side firewall? Have you performed gogmorgo's suggested test on the clutch fan? Do you have a temp gauge or just a warning lamp?

And the crud in the intake manifold is normal.

Likely unrelated and you have more than one issue. Turn signals and wipers not working is likely a burned brown wire at the ignition switch on the column. Blower motor usually doesn't work either.

Just a side note. For many repair operations, you can leave the rear fitting connected. Like doing an injector swap.