cruiser54

That's okay. You got the drift.

Cheap enough to replace both and with good reason. The orifice and tube were updated along the line. Get em both.

Fuel disconnects Quick disconnect part numbers The Napa part numbers for just o-rings *is: Napa 730-5018 3/8 Viton individual o-rings Napa 730-5017 5/16 Viton individual o-rings Napa CRB 212305 fuel line repair kit 5/16 *Remember to re-use your old spacer between the 2 new o-rings!! Mopar repair kits: 83502745 fuel line repair kit 5/16 83504447 fuel line/Trans line repair kit 3/8

Thanks for your post. We’re here to help, but you must understand that all Jeeps are not the same. In order for us to give you more accurate advice and help, we must know the following, as applicable, along with detailed information as to the symptoms/problems etc: Year Model Engine Transmission Transfer case

My pleasure as always.

Check the tube/line to the MAP sensor.

YOu need to change the mode to SAE instead of mumblemeters.

I always told people I'd hold their stuff until my arms got tired.......

Someday, I'll share a neat story of how we worked with them. A dying issue that was caused by RF interference to the ECU from a bad spark plug/wire. We had 28 hours in the "out of warranty" 87 or 88 XJ, doing things like wrapping the ECU in aluminum foil and the like. Keep good plugs and wires in those 87 and 88s boys!!!

Absolutely not. This is one of those deals where they provided me with info to fix vehicles and it never came out as a TSB. Many of my Tips are from just such situations. They were field engineers. They found fixes and went to those up above and had them make production changes and the like. I have no idea what criteria they used to determine if the fix warranted a TSB or not. I was just happy to have the fixes and as a result we were the first Chrysler Five star dealer in the state of Arizona. It's only the right thing to do now by sharing. Don, I will email you a photo of "the book". It's a spiral bound notebook of all the Tips we got from JeepTech during the day. I still have it.

Paradise is on the right track. Also, test your CPS output.

Losing the gaskets is one thing I can understand since they were just Mylar film, not a good gasket material at all. Mylar phased out cellophane in many applications that required a stronger more resistant material, especially in aircraft. But hacking off 1/2" or so off the baffle towers is something I'd never do w/o proof that it actually was beneficial. But that's just me. Worked great back then and works great now. I can attest to it. Others who have done the mod can also.

I'm positive you don't need those gaskets. My Tip 25 came from JeepTech when I was Service Manager at a Jeep dealership. That Tip never came out as a TSB and I was fortunate to get it, along with many others, and document them for use today.

It's so simple. And there's good reason to get the harness WITH rear grommet at Napa or another parts store. Come all together. And, you get the updated grommet with the hose and the updated orifice in it. It was changed from the earlier models to further reduce the chance of oil being sucked into the engine. The tube from the rear of the valve cover to the intake manifold is part number BK 715-1365 or Dorman 46005 and comes with the valve cover grommet. The vacuum harness that attaches to the front of the valve cover and includes the grommet/fitting, and is called the front harness, is Napa part number BK 715-1367 or is a Dorman 46003.

Cruiser....I did not know you were Canadian.... :Canadaflag: :cheers: Nah. But I try to stay in touch with my inner Canuck at times, you hoser. LOL.

Even a later engine. Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block. The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily. Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1999 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender. You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical. You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications. The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine. As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case. Revised 03/28/13

You plugged the line you removed from the HCV right?

OP should see O2 sensor voltage fluctuate rather rapidly from .1 to 4.9 volts rapidly as previously stated. If the voltage remains "stagnant" the O2 sensor is bad. simple.

Or, the rear grommet comes as part of one harness and the front grommet comes as part of another. Hence, the link to those parts. At this point, I really could give three $#!&s if this ungrateful a$$hole ever gets his piece of $#!& fixed.

I don't need see how pics of the harnesses answers my question. I don't need harnesses and does not show or address thr rubber grommets around the valve cover. There is a reason why you have trouble seeing things. Has something to do with where your head is.

It should be switching fairly rapidly from about 1.1 to 4.9 if the O2 sensor is any good.

See Tip 22 in my link for the valve cover grommets/harnesses.

I can't see it worth a hoot. O2 sensor should switch rapidly between Rich and Lean. Not give one voltage.

Hmmm. What are you trying to seal that makes any difference anyway? Cruiser’s Valve Cover Mod Most early and even later Renix 4.0s could be bothered by excessive oil in the air cleaner box. A fix from my old days as Service Manager at a Jeep dealership follows. Information was provided to me from a buddy at JeepTech during those days. I don’t believe it ever came out in a Technical Service Bulletin. 　 Remove the valve cover and turn it over. Next, remove the fluted tubes that are now facing you by removing three screws on each. Chop 1 inch off each of them. Then, about a half inch up from the area where you just sawed them off, drill a half inch hole in the tubes so the holes will face the rear of the valve cover. Clean and de-burr/sand all rough edges nicely, clean with solvent, and reinstall. Don’t be concerned about the chintzy gaskets that will probably crumble into oblivion when you remove the fluted tubes. They can go back together without gaskets.

I just got home. Thanks. I knew it was mumblemeters.