cruiser54

Me too. Makes it look like a kludge. Whatever. My Comanches stop way better than you can imagine.

I cut the firewall. Easy. It's okay if they cut the lines close to the proportioning valve because you're gonna be changing the ends anyway.

I've done both. WJ is easier. Get the lines coming off the master also.

99 to 2004.

I ordered most all of the 13 Comanches I had as demos. Back in the day, you could order more individual things and piece them together. Unlike today, the "packages" dominate the ordering.

I have 3 MJs. 2 are column shift, one floor. I prefer driving the column shift models.

I use the website, not the app. I'm liking it.

Your TPS is likely bad and/or has a poor ground. Do Tip 5 at www.cruiser54.com and report back.

How about what you see with the DRB? http://imgur.com/a/G1TOk

Wanna see the whole show? http://imgur.com/a/spPds

I sure like imugr way better than photo@#$%et. Check it out by clicking on the link below to my technical photos.

I figured it out. Right click image. Left click Copy Image Address. This is what happens

Should be a 3.55 axle ratio with an automatic trans. That tag will tell you.

It's 99 to 2004 WJ.

I wish. That's the AMX prototype.

http://imgur.com/w0wObu1

You are not allowed to use that image extension on this community.

I did the braided lines also to all of mine. What are you gonna do with the fronts?

First upload from imgur And it says it's not allowed.....Great.

Here's what it boils down to. There are a few ways to deal with the crappy brakes, the distro valve and the load sensing valve. Some ways give better overall braking performance. Not everyone has tried all of them. Well maybe one person has.....

by ditch the distribution valve do you mean the one by the MC? T the front lines together in the front or in the rear? Ditch the distro valve. T the front brake lines together. As for the rear, ditch the load sensing valve and use an adjustable proportioning valve in the engine bay. Works way better than anything else. I have done this both ways and documented the differences. But what the @#$% do I know? Some folks, who haven't done it both ways, feel that adjusting that POS load sensing valve is the cure-all. It isn't. You're leaving a TON of front braking effectiveness on the table by keeping the distro valve. You know, sometimes field testing and experience is more valuable than conjecture and demeaning someone's actual experience. Kinda like "fake news" in the Jeep technical realm.

You have no idea what you're talking about. Have you done it both ways as I have?

Ditch both the distro valve and load sensing valve. T the front lines together and use an adjustable proportioning valve for the rear. The best combo.

Just now got done putting all my Jeep Tech photos on Imgur.