Hypoid

I have been missing out on a lot of the pictures you guys post anyway. My Norton blocks them as a malicious web site.

+1

I would not drive it that way. One thing I have seen in different build threads is people using 1/4-inch steel rod to join the wheel well to the quarter panel. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-cherokee/885939-t-t-project-low-wagon.html

Mr. Coors lives in your location, and that's all good. :cheers: We moved here after living in a "not so nice" area. :thumbsup:

Perhaps I am jaded by my personal observations, and my location: My personal opinion is that tweakers are clever enough to get the greatest yield for the time invested, to get their next high. All other "needs" come in second. If that pessimism offends you, I apologize.

TWEAKERS! They can't pass a drug test or hold down a real job.

That is one heck of a pallet! :) The way it is pictured, how long is it?

Sounds like a joke, but the wood frame is legit. I do some finishing and packing work for a local furniture builder. We had to stop using UPS because they broke many, many pieces and trying to get compensation was like trying to stick a wet noodle in a dog's butt! We use FedEx now with much better results. Basically, it's not the delivery drivers, it's the warehouse clowns and their forklifts you have to worry about. (any MJ owners who drive a forklift are excluded :thumbsup: ) Odd shaped packages are begging to be damaged. We box/crate everything! You could look into White Glove Delivery or ship Freight on a small palette. I would crate the hitches, with something between the plates as you suggested. The added cost is minimal compared to shipping something twice, having a disappointed customer, and damaged merchandise.

If it was like that, they would have said "his husband." ;)

Don't worry about it. Worry about getting the bolts torqued to specification. That will provide the clamping force the control arms need to stay put.

Sad, indeed! This is on local boards as well.

If you only need the o-rings: Fuel disconnects Quick disconnect part numbers The Napa part numbers for just o-rings *is: Napa 730-5018 3/8 Viton individual o-rings Napa 730-5017 5/16 Viton individual o-rings Napa CRB 212305 fuel line repair kit 5/16 *Remember to re-use your old spacer between the 2 new o-rings!! Mopar repair kits: 83502745 fuel line repair kit 5/16 83504447 fuel line/Trans line repair kit 3/8 That right there is GOLD!!!

Mine's harder. With the 01 intake and the 04 TJ steering pump, there's very little wiggle room for the fuel lines. I had to bend the fuel rail nipples slightly to fit them in. Thus I disco the fuel lines when changing injectors. Last time I disconnected the fuel lines from the rail in my RENIX Jeep, it cost $25 to put them back together. The FSM says to replace those little plastic fittings if you disconnect them, it is a "disposable" seal. Guess what, those little plastic thingies are out of production, last I heard.... My last engine swap, the fuel rail was hanging off to the side, still connected to the fuel lines. No leaks there, yet.

The instructions say to drill out the factory bracket. http://www.morris4x4center.com/pdf/JKS-OGS126.PDF

First, welcome! Second, call your local auto recyclers and ask what they will pay for it. I have picked a quite a few nice vehicles that sold for scrap price. Don't be ashamed to offer a hundred or two more than the recycler. As others have said, leave yourself some head room. Don't be bashful about telling the owners how much money you expect to sink into this project to make it streetable.

OK, but if your timing mark is not even close to 0* with #1 at TDC, your crank damper ring has slipped.

Thanks Hypoid, it's become a regular swarm of them down there it seems. Not sure if I will make this one as much as I would like to. Still recovering from a nasty bug. I appreciate the heads up. SOMEBODY got lucky and beat me out of a D-44! It was good to meet you, nice looking truck! We have a running thread for junkyard prospecting in the Colorado Chapter of NAXJA: http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1090400&page=11

LKQ set another one!

Soooo, if I get it to start, and run??? The backfire through the intake indicates a need for a cranking compression test.

And you know the difference between XJ and MJ bucket seat brackets. :) Maybe, someday, we will bump into each other and make the world a little smaller...

Are you going to Anderson's, or making the drive to Denver?

Welcome! That is awful nice of the dog to share his new truck with you! :D Seriously, trucks and dogs... :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

:thwak: NO! Using a torque wrench keeps the fasteners within design loads, and keeps the clamping force even across all the studs. I followed the instructions, used blue thread locker and a torque wrench. I have had zero problems with anything coming loose over the past 18 months of use.

I can't tell from your pictures, what size are those tires?

I took out the digital clock to the right to mount switches. It might work for your application. Since this forum software does not like the file extensions to the images I wanted to post, here is the post on another board: http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?11401-Mod-For-The-Day&p=163413#post163413