kro10000

Work at an auto parts store, for now... Quitting in a couple weeks to go to school :banana: Being poor is gonna suck

Turns out it was something completely unrelated, the fuel pump ballast resistor :huh???: I replaced it with a 1.2 ohm resistor (the original was a 1.1 ohm) which I don't think is enough to make a difference On a side note, having that ac compressor ground unhooked will fry a relay, so with a new one in and a can of R134a my ac is epicly cold :banana:

So today I replaced my ac bracket (thought the bearings for the fan pulley were toast, but was wrong) idler pulley and belt. After I got everything back together I fired it up and let it run while I put tools away, then when I went to shut the hood, the engine died Wtf? THen when I tried to start it it would fire up fine, then die. Under closer inspection I found that I forgot to hook up this wire (ground?) ont the AC compressor (the one with the yellow boot) After I hooked it back up, the problem didnt go away, fires up, then dies... Also the wire to the ac Efan was unhooked I also found these wires just lying around Any ideas? :help:

Taking a Pathfinder over an MJ :(

Stock Configuration: 4.0L / 2WD / BA-10 / D35 / SWB / Pioneer Notes: My DD, it is now a 4x4 with its second D30 sitting in the front (3.55 and non disco, vs 3.07 disco) also is about to recieve a D44 to match, also now it has an AX-15. Has grey interior, used to have a bench and mini console, now has buckets with a full XJ console. Factory rear slider window (3 piece), full gauge cluster seems to be factory. Manual windows, locks, mirrors, and a non-tilt collumn. This truck has definitely been repainted at one time, and poorly at that. It has been involved in two accidents, a front end collision and a rear end collision. There has also been at least one attempt to steal it. Build date: (will add) Mileage: 201,XXX Current Location: Leawood, Kansas 66206 or wherever I happen to be (will be following me to Pittsburg, Kansas soon) Status: My driver Current owner: Me, Kelly O'Neill

I would either do a delphi or bosch... Or obviously OE

I believe my cable has finally died, if you spin the cable where it plugs into the tcase, the speedo doesnt move, any ideas where to find a replacement?

I am about to do them for the third time this year, and all I have to say is DO NOT BUY THE CHEAP ONES... only buy the moog joints, or else you will be doing it again soon... I am finally buying moog

I'm kinda confused as to how this could help, i never removed the gear housing, only the cable from the housing

Ok so now my clutch works great, but during the swap there was one casualty, my speedometer doesnt work. Or that is... It doesnt really work. The speedo is making some noise, and the needle wobbles between 0-5 when I'm doing approximately 70 on the highway. Now, before the trans swap the needle wobbled really bad at low speeds and was making some noise, so I'm wondering if the cable is bad, but it couldnt be completely broken because it works a little bit. Question is do I have the cable installed wrong? I have removed and installed it several times from the t case, but with no improvement. Secondly where do I find a new one? I'd rather not have to get a used one, and none of the JYs near me have any anyways. Mine is a 4.0, ax-15, NP231 WITH cruise control that works (except for now obviously) Thanks Guys

Id give $1000

:agree: you need to fix it asap

Ha, yeah it was... That was last year right before his D30, t case, and engine blew up simultaneously. That is one feat only my brother could pull off

It might not be a bad idea...

It shouldn't matter, and you may be forced to replace the line if you want to swap masters, as I was wanting to replace mine with a newer one, but the newer one didnt have a screw fitting for the line to hook up to. (or the one they sell at O'Reillys anyway)

IT LIVES!!! :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: I have no Idea which part I replaced fixed it, but when I was bleeding the latest clutch master cylinder this happened So I rewelded it all up, bled it... and drove it to the hardware store to replace all the bolts that grew legs and walked off over the last few months... (I blame the mice) I'm wondering if the clutch pedal separating caused the whole issue in the first place, if so then its been hanging together for a long time. Oh and don't judge me on the choice pedal... That was an irreversable modification the PO did, I hate the boy racer look of them, but they do place the pedals close together.... Which I kinda like Anyways thank you everyone for all your help, my MJ would probably be a smoldering heap of metal without it.

It ain't mine, it's my brother's... But it's the jeep that got me into jeeping. What was my stepdad's DD brand new in 97, became my moms DD, which was passed down to my older brother, which has now turned into his toy. Was a 4.7 stroker, now in the process of installing the 4.8, AX-15 terminator trans, D30, NP231, advance adapters SYE, Tom woods DS, exploder 8.8 with disks 4.10s, and factory LS. RE 3.5 inch short arm lift, off brand bumpers, KC 130w fogs and spot beams on the bumper, and some rediculously expensive Warn lights on the A pillars (only paid $50 :brows: ) Crager chrome 15x8 steelies, 33x12.5 Maxxis MTs (for now, 35s are in the works)

:rotf:

I wouldnt recommand them for what you are trying to do, cross drilled rotors really are only to help reduce brake fade after repeated use, which would mainly mean a road race/circle track car. His brakes only need to work once in a long period of time, not many times in a short period of time. Really for this purpose they would present a hazardous situation due to the greater likelihood of them breaking. Slotted would really have no benefit at all, as they are really to help responsiveness. I have had the opportunity to work on a couple track cars, mainly porshes (mostly 944s, and one 911 turbo) I have seen heavily cracked rotors but never any that were blued. I would have to agree with what was said above, you seem to be having a dragging issue. I would also consider cooling ducts as well for the brakes, but I doubt itll solve your issue. I don't know a whole lot about top speed cars, but I'd kinda wonder if having no front brakes would be kind of dangerous. It might be a little squirrly when you brake. Also youve lost your fail safe, cause if those rears go out for any reason, then youd better have enough room to roll to a stop. Of course youve got engine braking as well, so that may be a non-issue. Anyway theres my $.02

Ok sorry for no update, I was someplace without internet... Anyway, I was looking at the end of the master cylinder, so I replaced that yet again... However, I am missing the bushing that goes in between the ring on the end of the master cylinder pushrod and the rod on the clutch pedal assembly. Could this possibly be the entire issue? The clutch worked fine before without this bushing so I am not sure. Anyone of you dedicated folks know the dimensions of it off of the top of your head? Or am I just gonna have to dig out my calipers and go measure? Thanks guys

Question though, when you guys bleed the clutch, do you park it on level ground or do you jack the back end up? My buddy seems convinced that you cannot get all of the air out with the truck sitting on level ground.

I still have clutch issues... :headpop: For the last few months I have been without a DD as the MJs clutch will not disengage. I have now dropped the transmission three times, I have replaced the following, clutch line (now is a hard line), flywheel, pressure plate, disk, pilot bushing, slave cylinder lines, slave cylinder (TWICE), master cylinder (TWICE). I have spent countless hours bleeding the darn thing, and now there seems to be no air coming out of the bleeder, only fluid. I can shift the trans fine while the truck isnt running, or while the T-case is in neutral, but can't get it into gear while running. I really am about to give up on this thing, two days ago as I was putting the trans in for the third time I looked up into the shifter hole as a MOUSE looked back down at me :fs1: . I've now spent the last two days cleaning out the nest and tearing apart the interior, sanitizing everything. :wall: I caught the mother in a mouse trap, and was forced to kill five babies as their mother was dead, and the only two outcomes they had were starving, or getting eaten. I believe that was one of the worst things I have ever had to do. Also, the truck now runs like complete crap, feels like a miss, and the exhaust smells rich. I didnt have this issue before, but I did replace the CPS while I had everything apart, also replaced the fuel filter. If I don't get this fixed within the next few weeks, I am gonna be forced to sell it, or I'll burn it :nuts: If you have any other advice please help. EDIT: Found the reason it was idling poor... MAP sensor was unhooked :dunno:

Welcome to the wonderful world of CC

Maybe its for some sort of wheel speed sensor? My dakotas 8.25 had one mounted in the top of the diff for ABS

:agree: