Marine1Texas

well put 215 225 or 235 on. I have 235/75r15 since day one

in 5th gear at 75mph my truck sits at 2300 rpms. unless taking off my revs never get over 2800 to 3000 rpms. When driving it almost always below 2200. I find best power for eco in my truck is 1800 to 2200. When I cruse at 75 to 85 I see big drops in eco.

I drilled mine all the way thru. I had no issue

yea just spinning may not hear it. you have to take in account the pressure your getting from belt tension. if it is alternator is could also be on the back side where the tension opposite of front barring. I know those barring last about 60k or so. Check if there is any slop play in the shaft as well. I have had a alternator make funky noises however work for the longest time. It almost always from the front barring I have found.

I have the metric ton package on my truck with the bigger Dana 44. I am sure it will handle the weight of 1 ton on a 35 however you have to think about barring's and stuff inside it. I have put 6400 lbs in my 1966 International Harvester all the time however about every 2 years I have to rebuild the rear end because the friction smash's up the balls in the barring's. If this is not going to be a every day thing maybe rent a trailer. Would hate for you to mess up the rear end .

from the sound it sound like something needs lubed. have you tried to lube of the barring's. on both alternator and the balancer. remember grease can dry out and make things sounds weird.

When we got our Comanche new from dealer it had 235/75r15 on it. that was in july 1987. Now maybe factory did not install them and dealer did. I don't remember and my uncle who got it in 1987 from dealer could not remember either. On door it says p235/75r15 and psi 30 front and back. I tried to get a better pic but is very warn lol if you zoom you can see When I am on the farm in the mud I leave pressure at 20 psi front and back. When I have to drive it to town I fill the tires to 32 front and back. Remember pressure of tire and rim can hold more like tire says 35psi. however for ride is why they say 30 psi.

http://www.epa.gov/oms/cert/factshts/catcvrts.pdf Catalytic converters have been installed on most 1975. however The policy August 5, 1986 was when it was enforced.

yes agreed 235/75R15 is tallest factory put out and best with out lift. When I had 31x10.50R15 they rubbed when turning tight. My truck has the metric tone package from stock and it came with 235/75R15. I have no need to raise it since it is a farm truck, however we did put on 31x10.50R15 for 2nd pair of tires after stock and they rubbed. We switched back and no rub.

Federal mandate since 1984. all Comanche's had catalytic converter from factory. Look under hood there is sticker. I have a pass thru in my converter because after 25 years in Texas the cat has to look like it is there but no emissions testing.

yes it works in the old r12 system. however it does not cool as well as the 134a. My international we used this in. however we ended up doing the 134a upgrade anyway a year later. the performance does not compare to the 134a.

new expansion valve, new dryer, and new seals. after you have system installed and closed, use a pump to take out all air and moisture. let it sit for 15 minutes at zero to make sure seals are holding. if holding good then put a small can of 134a oil in and then you can fill. seen.

I just installed a under dash A.C system. the boxes runs about 100 dollars a/c only and all wiring can be done out side of dash and direct with relays under the hood. Just needs the unit, compressor, condenser, universal dryer and then the hoses. I have even see someone install one behind the box console behind the seat. Only had to run the lines under the cab. I got the a/c heater box combo took out my old box and mounted under passenger dash and ran a tube to the vents on dash and defrost. It cost me 400 for everything installed. I opted out of factory install because the search for used parts is not easy where I live. you need box that can install the core, and you will need the control box for a/c to replace you heat only unit near radio. Everything else is standard hook up at that point. All refurbished or new compressor will be able to use the 134a.

Another option is a hi pressure inline pump that go's out side the tank. that way you just need to make the tubing in the tank solid. still able to use wiring . We did this on my truck for a 2nd tank. We just used a relay and a switch on dash to use same wiring from truck to switch pumps.

I have a 1987 Jeep Pioneer 4x4 4.0L. I removed the whole vacuum harness years ago. (since I am exempt and here in Texas being more then 24 years old I do not worry about emissions I have hooked up what is needed) I have it down to just a few lines left and direct. My setup A. Throttle body to MAP sensor direct no sharing B. the back old ccv, I put a pcv and direct connect to manifold (nipple next to 3 nipple vacuum). I removed the one nipple connector and put a 3/8 quick connect from a air compressor line then used a 3/8 gas line to pcv. C. In the back near throttle body on manifold I have one going to the vacuum ball under the front bumper that supply's to 4 wheel drive, transfer case., it also has a line going in side to hvac system. D. In the front of the manifold there is a 3 nipple vacuum. 1 is direct hook up to the Fuel pressure regulator 2nd one is connected to the electric valve for opening EGR on the driver side next to old filter box (Since I did EGR delete This is now capped off) 3rd it was hooked up to the filter box when I had it installed. (it is now capped off because I use spectra intake, that does not need heat from exhaust) After these we also get no more oil spitting on valve cover with pcv and and no more oil in filter box (also cruiser has good tips for keeping oil from coming up ccv). It was one of the things I done to help clean up the vacuum system for any leaks. Now the front hose with filter on yours, went to the filter box when it was new. however it is just a breather for your valve cover to let off pressure. (mine now go's to a filter as well then to my intake ). Just make sure to check the filter every now and then to make sure no oil build up in it.

Check your gauge that it is working correct. My gauge that came with truck is off by 10 degrees, even after all fix's with grounds and what not. I use a after market gauge that works way better.

yes it is offset to driver side on mine too. I think because of the 4wd shifter. I know yours is 2wd however other then that it the same setup

yea just the clamp that you use a 15 mil to tighten down. it takes about 10 minutes to install. they snap up an and out and the center bars remove easy if you need to use full bed. I put a hinge at the base of the bed and the cab. I did not use the clamps. I use two small sliding locks near the gate of the bed to keep it all down. does not move and very tight. Gives me about 2.5 mpg saving when going down the highway too. Does not flop or move at 80 mph so I think it will stay no matter what.

This is how the downey cover looks on my truck

the casting number match's 1987-90 casting. Unless they made the casting after? I have a 1987 and your casting match's mine!

renix 4.0 1988

This is what the Downey Slant Side Tonneau Cover | 7' Long Bed | SST 206040 looks like. http://downeyproductsnortheast.com/sst-206040-jeep-comanche-7-long-bed.html

try the cruisers tips for refreshing electrical system http://comancheclub.com/topic/36382-cruisers-renix-tips/ could be ground issue! Sounds like it could be a short as well. After everything said and done, when truck is off and lights everything is off, use a meter to check for battery drain. Make sure your coil is doing its job, seen coils have low power and still make spark. If no spark then you have narrowed it down, if good spark then could be timing issue or fuel related. Indexing distributor in cruisers tips is always a good idea. Fuel area make sure fuel is getting in their, low fuel pressure can cause no start. I once had the fuel pickup hose in tank crack and pump fuel up and drop right back in to tank. Make sure you pump is pumping, make sure your pressure valve is work on your fuel rail. and last fuel filter is not clogged.

The Tonneau from http://downeyproductsnortheast.com/sst-206040-jeep-comanche-7-long-bed.html fits the shape of the bed. mine narrows when the bed does and almost can't tell from the out side. it is made just for the Comanche. I put a long hinge at the end of the bed near the cab and added two shocks one on each side. it allows me to lift it and then I have a lock each side of the Tonneau that requires the tailgate open to lift the Tonneau.

Comanche Fanatic, I used the 88 compressor however I got the bracket from 88. The bracket from 87 is different. MJ Maniac, I would have done that, however I did not have a donor box.