81Chero

Hey, I'm in need of the bolt in body piece that supports the driver side of the 4cyl vertical radiator. It also has the 3-4" hole in it, and fills in that side that would be normally taken up by the 6cyl longer radiator. Should be the same for the Cherokee also..? I'm in 38654. Thanks Errol

OK printed it out and compared to the 'pig tales' that I had cut to splice in. BUT, I have more wires than what is listed..?? All but 3 (i think) have a tracer line through the solid color. I'm at work righ now and can't get to give colors. Cruiser, You mind if I PM you the pics of the pig tale ends? p.s. what does Bzzzzzzt mean?

You just don't know how I get 'woozy' just thinking about wiring like this.. BUT, being a glutton for punishment I just ordered a headlight "upgrade" harness and some IPF (?) headlights. I figured that if I'm going to be in there, I might as well jump in.. (that came from another post you had Cruiser..) I'll try and post pics after I get things all wired in Thanks again Errol

Hey guys n gals. I've picked up a '96 Cherokee and it's got the 4cyl radiator and it had a previous damage so, Instead of reshaping the little piece that bolts in and supports the D/S of the radiator, I'd like to find another used. The 4cyl vehicles are pretty rare near me and of course the 6cyl stuff won't work. Thanks E

This SHOULD be a "sticky" Errol

By "more than one wire" I mean that the '97's plug (for the front lights) has a few more wires than the '96's, just stands to reason that some may splice together. (I just don't understand why they put 2 sockets in the same fixture for the later turn signal housing..) I saw a build by some guy that cut out both sockets in his and just epoxied in a LED bar instead. And of course, can't find the thread.. Thanks for the links. E

I believe I have the unit bearing/stub. Purchased a set of slotted/drilled rotors/pads AND bearing hubs. Went to swap them out, since i just assumed that they were poop (they weren't) and bolted them back on. So, it looks like the Dodge cars will work. (Those on your black jeep look great!) if that's yours that is. The 18's really fill the wheelwell nicely. Thanks. My google searches start with a few then drift off into random celebrities or wine bottles etc.. E Oh, Thanks Pete. Didn't even recognize it.

Traded up for a '96 2dr, 2wd, 5spd 4cyl that I want to make into MY version of Racejeep. It will be lowered some (not in the weeds though) so, I'd like to see pics of the wider wheels with a shallow backspacing to utilize the wheel flares. I'm really NOT into the 30" rubber band look at all, just a nice clean star maybe, that will just bolt on. 18" might be the limit. I have a couple sets of Chrysler Conquest rims and wanted to use the rear 8" ones all round. But, the center hub hole is just a tad too small. I wish it was LUG-centric instead of HUB-centric, then I can just bore it out by hand. But don't want to ruin a set of kinda rare wheels. SO, if you guys KNOW what other Jeep models (even Dodge) that are a bolt on fit with out hubs, Post them up. And please, keep it to a mildly lowered, 2wd mindset. Thanks Errol

you already may have a 'dry crack'. Meaning not cracked into a water jacket. but still over heats. Do you have bubbles that seem not to stop coming out of open radiator cap hole? (when you look into where the cap goes) The compression will find any cracks. If the upper rad hose get's rock hard and hose clamps look like they are straining to hold on (rubber is severely bulged near clamps) the system could be over pressurized from that. Also, pull a your plugs to see if a couple are VERY clean, might indicate that they are getting steam cleaned compared to other spark plugs. (steam coming from coolant leak into combustion chamber) And sometimes a retarded ignition will cause overheating. Hope my lil .02 can help. Errol

PM me your phone number. If you would like it cheaper, I can put the original wheels and tires back on. (I spent close to $1000 on wheels and tires. And they will fit on my 96 2dr) I try to be a low-stress person, and I've had so many 'deals' slip through my hands over the decades that I can easily put myself in your shoes.. It's still got it's quirks, but nothing that has stopped it from driving me anywhere I needed to go in the past year. EVERYTHING is negotiable.. I know it's far from you, but pray about it and see what God says.. Errol

OH MY GOSH..! Nice write up indeed.. I think that THIS is what I NEED.! May I ask a question? (well, a couple) I was wanting to do 2 of these swaps. 1- to my daily, a 88 comanche with a 97 front clip and 2- A soon-to-be daily that was recently acquired 96 that I just happened to find the same color front from a 99. (that usually NEVER happens) Well, both my 88 and the 96 are 4cyl, manual base models, and don't know if JEEP just put the whole (every option) harnesses in every model 'just in case' to save on labor and mistakes. Well Anywho, I swapped the 99 onto the 96 to find out that since it's the 4cyl, the upper radiator support 'beam' is lower, there is a huge gap. And will have to go back and pick that up from a 6cyl. (also a torx and extension bit to fit the screws. ...dang socialists) Your first pic shows an electrical relay 'station'. Is this YOUR addition like the fuse block you made up on the fire wall? Cause I don't see it on either of mine. Also, as your pic of the 8 pin connector, which ones are for headlights, marker and turns? Can I splice more than one light into a wire without issues? Seeing your pics almost made me throw up a little and get woozie.. If I were to take the time out and take a anti-depressant I could probably understand it. But wiring isn't my first area of response.. If you could post any wiring schematics you may have, that would be just fantastic. I'm going for the 'racejeep' theme here. Need room for the kids and shifting between legs does NOT make me comfortable. Plus, I plan a Magnum 5.2/NV3550 swap to beat on these goobers down here. All that to say that the only dirt that I'll be in will be if I get run off the road by the goobers on their phones, and most all hwy speeds. Thanks. Errol

Aw poop.. I probably left that at the 'yard'. I was soo excited that I found a 88 with a tilt that I didn't even think. I'll see if its' under my dash. Thanks again especially for the pics. E

I heard it will fit/work in an earlier Renix vehicle also, so I looked and looked in the local yards and ended up finding a '01 Dakota with the 2.5/5spd. I ALSO heard that besides the manifolds, the long-block was EXACTLY the same.. Things kinda slowed and my orig 88 motor while quite old, still is getting great mileage considering so I stopped being interested in swapping. But one thing, I tried to swap starters at one point and they're different, Also the alternator wouldn't swap over. Can't remember what wouldn't work at this time though. It's been a bit and can't remember which sites I joined when I got the Comanche that I asked that Because, the Idea at the time was to freshen up the dakota one and swap it in the Comanche since I didn't know the prior history of it, and didn't want to get stuck somewhere. But it just runs too good to go through all that work. E

Getting ready to sell my 88 Comanche, fixing little things and did a tilt column swap from a 88 Cherokee and NOW it only has med and high speeds for the wiper. The other 'stock' column only had intermittent and high..? Things like this is why I can't stand wiring.. What would be different? The stalk (?) has the controller IN IT, or the wiper motor itself? Is there a wiper relay that could be affecting it? Also, what I found when I got home with it was that the orig Comanche column's ignition switch utilized a PUSH rod whereas the TILT Cherokee uses a pull rod in the switch. I had to swap all the guts from both switches down on the column to make it work (well, it did for a couple days. Then something happened that it won't pull it far enough to start..?) I've got to pull the wheel off, horn ring etc to find out what's not letting it pull as needed. (yes, I've adjusted the switch itself..) But it's my daily and can't be down for more than a few hours it seems. Can't have something break or ______ and leave me stranded. Any help is always appreciated Errol

I'm going to be selling mine, but don't know if you will want to drive to Memphis area.. It's about 800 miles (little shorter but long nonetheless) Are you dead set on 4wd? Mine is 2wd, 4spd, 4cyl that gets about 25mpg+ hwy. Slight rust in floors (pin holes) and rear spare tire 'thingy' that let the spare down. Otherwise pretty rust free. And not looking to hurt feelings, but you might need to 'up' your budget a bit to find a nice one. Blue-book and the like rate these upwards near 8K in VGC with all the bells n whistles.. I lived in Michigan for a short time and I think they get cited by the auto mfg's if they DON'T put down 2-5" of salt on the roads 8 months out of the year.. If I'm going to be painting mine, it's going to be around 32-3500 with extra engine. It's just faded red and want to do the 97 front end swap for looks. But looking to ask around 2800 as it sits. (just the 16" Grand Cherokee wheels and new tires cost around 850) There was one listed here near me for around 2000 but was all different colors (and probably beat up...) 4wd doesn't get treated very nice around here. Actually most all I've looked at or seen have been WELL USED you might say. Doesn't matter the make. They go 'muddin' all the time. I'm going a different route and found a '97 2dr, 2wd, 4cyl that I want to do a V8 swap to.. I've put about 10K on it so far, drive it every day but need more room for the kids. E

Thanks Guys. i'll try and get back there to get the fenders. It was a CLEAN Cherokee Sport that I'm getting parts from. Glad I don't have to do the hood too.. Just gotta finish this '88 Cherokee tilt column swap that turned into a 2 day job. (Thought I was going to do the '95 brake booster/master, Pwr steering box, vent window swap in one day but NO) I'm praying that I get it finished for work tomorrow. Thanks again. Errol

Just like it states. Want a cleaner/smoother look and was looking at swapping a front grill and bumper assy to my 88, 2wd pickup. First and biggest looks to be the wrap around bumper/lower valance interfering with the '88's front fender section.. Does anyone know if this can be accomplished? THanks E

I could've sworn that I posted about this before but didn't find it. Truck is a '88 comanche and have a drive train from a '01 Dakota with of course, 2.5 BUT a 5spd. Since they're both hydro clutches, what else would I need to do to swap them and have a 5spd for a little better mileage. It gets around 22mpg but was hoping for closer to 25. I also have 245/60/16 tires on Grand Wagoneer rims for less revs per mile. Back to the swap. Besides the rear trans mount what else? Does anyone know what lengths of trans are between the 4spd and what looks like a NV3550. thanks E

what year and model does one get them from? Thanks

Well its' getting warmer and maybe it's me but getting spoiled by wife's vehicle. I'm still driving my son's 88 Comanche 4cyl, 4spd miser edition (NON AIR) Pioneer. And the temps are getting higher here near Memphis and need to do something. I've read several threads on converting to 134 but haven't seen/read of peeps that have gone from NON air to AIR conditioning using USED parts (except for the usual compressor, dryer, evap yadda yadda). I'll most likely be hitting the yards looking for a candidate to pull parts from BUT, what about the harness? Is it all there already just maybe taped off? Or do I have to swap out a COMPLETE under dash harness/etc..? My son's 88 has about 240,000 miles and there already 'issues' with the main fuse block as in deteriorated fuses that needed changing and now blowing fuses for dash lights and heater/blower after cluster swap.. So, now that you have a back ground, What do I need from a donor Cherokee to make this little pioneer blow cold? If its' all just a pull and replace that's fine but if there has to be major mods I might consider selling since I HATE wiring challenges-problems that are out of my brains limits. Granted that I realize that there will be new parts here and there, just need info/techniques on swapping it all in this truck. I NEED to get this done in the next month or sooner..!! Thanks E

Where did you get the B-pillar lights? Are you going to a 5spd by any chance? I'm just over near Memphis Tn and got a Pioneer for my son in red/tan, 2.5/ax4. He doesn't want to learn a manual trans, so I'm using it for work while making sure things are safe for him. Do you mind if I pm you questions? Errol

I've tried this with TWO, 2 different clusters and swapped the sensors and nuthin... All I get is lights, turn signals, high beam and of course the speedo. NO- oil gauge, volts, water temp, or fuel.. They don't do a thing. NO- lights over to the left side of the cluster either. I don't know what it is that ALL I GET IS WIRING problems with vehicles.. Is there any other fuses to check or what?? The truck is a '88 Comanche Pioneer, 4cyl, 4spd (miser edition) Even the yard here that specializes in Jeeps couldn't understand either. (thought I was going to have to pay 50.00 for their cluster because it couldn't get it out after "trying" it out to see if stuff worked) E

Respectfully, if you haven't yet done the repair and proven by a couple or few hundred miles of driving that you have no more death wobble, then you don't "know" that you've found the problem. What is it that you think is the problem, and what makes you so sure that's it? Where did you hear that an MJ steering box is supposed to be a variable ratio box? MJs and XJs have always used the same steering box, and to the best of my knowledge they never used a variable ratio box. Even if they did, that wouldn't explain slop in the box -- that's most likely the over center lash adjustment. It can't and doesn't cause death wobble. Eagle: 1, NO disrespect taken sir. I finally got the chance to jack up the front and 'wiggle' stuff.. BOY, the d/s tie rod end moved almost 1/2" when I grabbed the p/s rotor and did a 3-9 tug. 12-6 tug didn't show any ball joint wiggle that I could tell. I ordered inner/outer tie rods and the pivoting rod end (like an Idler arm) just because I really don't want to be missing something and let that happen again. (ESPECIALLY to my son. That would freak him out to the point of he wouldn't drive it) When I pulled the p/s rotor off, another indication of poor mtc was not much grease packed in the bearing cup. (this was the one with bad grooves, it's getting replaced anyway) 2, In the past couple weeks, I've read what seems like thousands of threads from several dozen sites and would swear that I read that the Mj's were variable. And going to the Grand Cherokee's lessened the ratio to around 12:1. (I think I got that straight..) Just figured that because of the thought of being VARIABLE, that might be A cause of more slop in the box. In addition to all the above.. On my older Chevy's that I've had over the years, the rag joint replacement usually helps a good bit. But, there have been several that I've had to crack the jam nut on the steering box adjustment on top and give it a "slight" tightening. Depending on the miles, and if it was mostly city driving, the 'center' of the worm gear/steering rack will be just loose and there really isn't much you can do besides just replace which ever it is. box or rack. Just because it's worn PAST a safe limit that's probably going to jam or ____. On the steering "U" joints, I'll take a look at those tomorrow afternoon. I'll try and put a vise-grip on both ends and do a little twisting and see how much play there is.. I struck MJ gold! I went to a yard (not really a pull-it type. just an ol country salvage yard) about 28yrs ago.. it's about an hour from me and was doing 'business' out there anyway. NOT 2, but 3 THREE! Comanche's. This place is HUGE--- There's NO WAY that the legend on the map is true. I was in the upper N/E corner and it looked like a half mile to the Southern end.. (if you had an 'accident' they wouldn't find you for weeks..) https://www.google.com/maps/place/Brown+Arvolle+Used+Cars+%26+Properties/@34.9184065,-88.6507002,385m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0xd0be75c1a40080ec Didn't think it was still there with all the cars that got scrapped to China. Going back next week to get what I can. When I went for the first test drive, it was raining for several days and there was a slight break in the clouds to take a drive. BUT I usually crawl under and take a look-see at damage, leaks, 'shade tree' repairs etc.. But there was puddles of water all over and I didn't look as close as I would have if it was dry out. (Did I say that i got a GREAT DEAL on it?) I mean, i've paid more for cars that didn't even run, or have an engine.. I'll let you guys know with hopefully pics, if I can get them to Image shack ok. Errol

O M G.. And this thing was supposed to have been owned by an aircraft mechanic!! I just thought that maybe he didn't like cleaning the engine compt. Never mind guys.. I know I found the issue($) Off to Rock auto. By The way, pass side rotors have grooves deeper than 1/8 and 1/4 wide. (I guess I didn't look that hard at the pass side. (It was raining.. REALLY) Boy are those steering dampeners expensive! I'm almost embarrassed that I started this thread. It drove SO NICE for 2-days! Then, BAM. Thanks E P.S. Yep, it turns about that much! I already read of the XJ swap, and had that planned out. It didn't matter to me with my mechanical skills and the price!!

Thanks sir, never thought of the steering stabilizer. That's probably the cleanest part (non-leaking) so I didn't think there was a problem. All my jeeps have them but never had this issue. Is it something with the linkage geometry of the suspension? My M-715, 81 Cherokee, 92 Cherokee had them, Now this on such a lightweight doesn't make sense to me. Never had it with my Chevy's in the past. The reason I seemed to switch to brakes was that it looked like the rotors were grooved some and that its' got over 230K on it, I just figured that Since it would be up in the air and getting things checked out. Another thing is that the steering box is supposed to be a variable box. This one turns about 1/8 before the tires do, so maybe the XJ box swap is needed NOW! And maybe the whole problem with the wobble.? Remember, Ive just had it for a week or so and just a couple days "legal" so I'll be asking more as things go. Thanks again guys. E