81Chero

I traded a crx for a 96 2-door Cherokee from a guy who thought he had a rod knock. I knew it was just the timing chain guides. So got it home and sure enough, whoever did the timing chain didn't pull the pin in the tensioner! (4cyl but same concept)

It's pretty rough, but I've seen worse!

Thank you. Haven't purchased the truck yet, because it's almost an hour away. I did source a D44 from an 88 comanche a few years ago. and have a selection of carriers/gear sets spanning a few decades, so as long as they didn't change the internal workings I should be good. Also have a pair of 44's from an older Cherokee. But they're 2.93:1(?) I also have a 2.5 that I had some machining done to, and might even use that. It's been sitting several years, so who knows what I'll find lol.. Again, thanks.

I'm in the process of buying it. Owner said that the day he got it, he drove for aprx 60 miles and it used almost a whole tank of gas! So he parked it, and hasn't done anything more with it. It's got the 2.8 and I've read that the 3.4 is a lot better engine, and swaps right in. But what else is "special" about it? Anyone know what the gears usually were in the 86's? It's not in the best shape. And figured it will need a new fuel tank. At the time I couldn't see the rear axle, so could it have a Dana 44 in back? Can anything be deciphered from the VIN? I know it's on my phone but can't find it 😡 Thanks for the help.

THANK YOU! I'd 'almost' give you a hug! I thought in '93 they changed the cluster to its own "system"? And thought the ECU needed to see oil pressure to energize the fuel pump.(?) I just unplugged the harness. So shouldn't have anything that was cut or not there. Waiting on blasting the serpentine brackets to get blasted, and painted. So I'll have a bit more room to pull wires around. Thanks again.

First off, didn't want to jack someones thread. And didn't want to get goofy answers like on some of the 'other' forums. And did a 'search' that mostly comes up talking points rather than actual pin-outs and or CLEAR, well lit pictures. It's a '93 2dr XJ. 2wd 4cy/5spd, 8.25 Ordered Novak mounts and 'test fit' the 350. But AFTER getting the mounts, the instructions say that you can delete most all the wiring including the engine/ECU. I would've thought that one could run a piggy back kind of harness integrated to stock Jeep harness. I've looked through Novak's site and the only wiring info I see is for the Gen 2+ (to purcha$) NOTHING as to getting gauges to read correctly and adapting air conditioning.. I'm wanting to use the mid-90's serpentine drive system that I already have. And Yes, I know how to get a chevy running with an HEI. Simple stuff. And have done it many times past. But wanting to make a nice little sleeper Jeep that's not all cobbled together causing electrical gremlins down the road. Like most, I dislike wiring and over 50+yrs have learned to either pay or just get the bare minimum to run. But want it reliable enough to sell and not worry. Oh, and swapping in a chevy TBI fuel pump and just use a return style regulator like I did on my '95 Chevy 2500HD. EASY PEASY!! I'm SURE that someone here has swapped a Chevy V8 here, but was hoping still has the wiring schematic that didn't get held hostage by Photobucket or the like.. Please help. Would really like to get this running in the next few weeks. Thanks

Have you got the engine in yet? or even gotten into the wiring?? I've got a '93 XJ. 2wd, 2dr, 4cyl/5spd, 8.25(4.1) that i've already got the novak mounts and 350 sitting in and T-5, 5spd. (just have to swap the tail to a S-10 mid-shifter to get it in the right position) Doesn't look all that bad or complicated, or "expensive" at all, and really don't know how different the engine compartment and wiring is to a MJ? I'm staying 2wd. So, driveshaft and make a angled trans mount. I had a 88 and EVERYTHING looked the same from what I remembered. (it's gone a while ago) I've got several projects going on and have you looked at the AR-5 from a Colorado, Canyon? I'm going to get out in the shop and see if the bellhousing swaps over to the NV3550 (removable bellhousing from a Dakota) I'm using the 3550. But the bolt pattern to the trans body looks really close. The early and later 4.0 jeep bellhousing will swap to the 3550. But you have to decide if you want the internal or external slave. (not that expensive or big of a problem) Plus the bell bolts to the early AMC V8's!!

"?"... It's just the diff/carrier, not the whole axle. But he somehow kept the pinion and side adjusters spotless.. I thought of just soaking it in Diesel fuel to get the grime softened, spend a quarter at the car wash, take it home, blow it dry spray it down with WD or blaster and put in a couple plastic bags. Just never had a 8.25 apart to know what the friction plates/discs were coated with and didn't want to degrade/prematurely damage the clutch packs, thinking of like auto tranny clutch packs. That came with a whole 'nother 29 spline axle with 3.55's that had everything shaved off and spring perches repositioned, ALL for a whoppin 75.00 So, now I'll have 3 gear sets, 3.07, 3.55, 3.73 to choose from. (the trac-lok has the 3.73 gearing) and two axles. Thanks again guys. E

Hey Guys, Picked up a 8.25 track-lok diff from a guy that had it for a project that changed directions and it had been sitting for quite some time and has dusty kind of dirt all over it. What would be the best way to clean it? I wanted to take it apart and see if it needed any new parts and since I was in there I'd thought I'd help it if i could. Since it's a clutch style I don't want to use a solvent if that's going to degrade the surfaces. Otherwise I thought of just taking it to a car wash and spraying it down with Blaster after.. What do you guys think? Thanks Errol

Oversize Oil Filters (3/4"x16 thread) 5.178" HIGH, 3.660" DIAMETER AC-Delco PF2 Motorcraft FL-1A Purolator L30001 Napa 1515 Wix 51515 Mopar L-72 L-326, L-526, L-55, L-1007, L-138 Baldwin B118 Hastings LF115 Mobil 1 M1-301 Amsoil EaO15 Donaldson P550008 6.93" HIGH, 3.660" DIAMETER AC-Delco PF42 Motorcraft FL299 Purolator L40017 Napa 1773 Wix 51773 Mopar L-526 Thanks again Hornbrod. That's good info. (should be in the DIY section) I've used Amsoil for over 20yrs in most everything. If I get a high mileage vehicle, I over fill it some with Rotella 15w40 and some seafoam or marvel just to see what's going on with temp or leaks and then after flushing a few times, i switch to amsoil and EA filter 10w30 or 0w20 since It doesn't get that cold here. then change it once or twice a year and filters inbetween. NEVER had an issue. Errol

I don't mean to jack, but I'm going from a 96 8.25 with 4.10's and just picked up another 8.25 that was 'shaved' for a wrangler I think, but has 3.55's . And came with an extra track-lok carrier and 3.73's. I don't know if I should go with the 3.55's or 3.73's with my little 4cyl. My Comanche Pioneer has the 2.5 and 'miser' edition with 3.31's. I think I'll try the 3.55's and see what mileage I get. (the Comanche get's upwards of 25+) 90Mj, I think you would like the 3.55's with a 6cyl. E

http://imageshack.com/a/img907/3852/PfTnjx.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img903/4586/duEia2.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img911/7601/2UObab.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img910/4057/6ypJO2.jpg gotta jet off to work.

Besides wiring, I hate computers too. Just spent over two hours trying to post this crap and well, crap.

Had it all written out and for some reason it posted HUGE pics from Imageshack, clicked on "POST" and got this: You are not allowed to use that image extension on this community. What the heck over?

I just think he didn't want to work on it and was pacifying me.. BUT, that still doesn't tell me why that when I hit the 'high' beams it just shut them off. ANYONE know that? Cruiser, I got a H4 harness from Ebay with the two relay's, to which I assume that one is for each light instead of low and high beams..? I'll try and post better pics tomorrow before work. Thanks again. Errol

Checked them out and none show what wires NEED to be soldered to what wires.. :( I thought that since I have an headlight upgrade harness that I would only have to worry about 4 wires. but NOPE. Still fighting with this crazy "bolt on conversion" that EVERYONE says is stupid easy. E

....Well, everything EXCEPT THE LIGHTS!! I must be some bafoon or something.. My '96 Cherokee only has 6, (SIX!) wires that need to be connected. And i can't get this figured out. NOW, let me state that I did get a H4 adapter/upgrade harness with the ceramic plug ends for heat of the bulbs. Also have a dual relay system built in that one only needs to plug in the supplied male end into the stock harness female plug to energise the circuitry and have lights! Saturday I thought I had the headlights taken care of by finding the low and high beam wires, plugging them in.. PRAISE GOD, let there be light and there was, and it WAS GOOD!! 'Was' meaning that when I hit the lever for high beams.. BANG, NO lights..? Wouldn't work for almost 15min and after messing with it again, got them back but shut off again when highs were switched..? The only wire that I actually 'crimped' was the black or ground since I figured that the grounds were connected together. Well, even with power from the '96 wires, NO lights.? I did quite well by not throwing any tools, smashing testers or the like.. I just went in and made my famous Almond sugar cookies.. Today i went to a buds' shop who actually says he LOVES wiring 'challenges'. I told him the situation and he said that the headlights were controlled by the computer.. and held up his hands and said that he'd pass!! This is NEW! It doesn't show that in the schematics.. So, Now I feel like I can't even PAY someone to fix this stupidly simple 'conversion'. BUT, that does make sense that it's got a circuit breaker for the headlight delay.. So, i wonder if I take the breaker out, will that give me high beams? This is VERY frustrating and testing my patients.

No hurry here. Still having issues with this wiring crap!! And it will be a few months before i get parts ligned up for a swap anywho. Errol

Hey Sir. Errol here.. Finally got to read through. Great and jealous!! Would you mind posting some pics of the front end clearance between the front axle and oil pan and the rest of the suspension parts? Thanks E

THANK YOU, THANK YOU!! For some reason this is like Kryptonite(?) to me. Very embarrassing to say the least.. Heck, I'm almost 53 and can tear into an engine or trans and rebuild it or weld up and make stuff but when it comes to wiring, I just freeze up. BUT, the goofy thing is that wiring car stereo's makes total sense(..?) I DON'T understand it, but it's the way it is.. It should stop raining here for a little bit and will head out and use a test light with my son and have him hit the lights/turns to see which is which, and twist them together and see what happens. According to Cruisers thread, I did the external HEAD LIGHT only wiring upgrade and got some H4 IPF lenses with 55/100w bulbs. From what I've read, all that together REALLY lights up the night. And with the flooding around here, the deer seem to be all over the roads looking for higher ground. (I'd be PISSED if I did all this wiring work and popped a deer coming home from work at 2am) Plus, I'd kinda like to do the 'angry eyes' thing since it's black and put some gorilla tape on them but it might defeat it's patterns. I cleared my phone of pics and will be taking some good clear ones as I go. What I'm struggling with is that mine being a '96 gets split between the 95 and 97's in reference to diagrams. My chiltons seems to leave out the 96 harness for the headlights but has engine harness. And 97 front chassis harness but different wiring than what I seem to have... (also had a '99 but it's got more wires than both! so went back and got the 97 one) Also, got my son for Christmas, a big light bar for his 01 cherokee, but that came with it's own harness and seemed to be easy. The Ebay harness like Cruiser spoke of uses just ONE plug like what would be on the back of a standard bulb to use as a jumper as it were. That in turn triggers the two bulbs as one. Please don't jump me, just trying to get this sorted so I can use the 96 for my daily since it's got air and most everything works.

Read it over again, and I'm really warming up to your rim choice, even better that they're staggered. I spent some $$ on enlarging the center hub hole and not "totally" excited about them. They're staggered also but got a fantastic deal on some Blizzak snow tires from Tire rack 235-60-16. I was looking at the zj springs also from a V8 Grand but didn't have the correct sockets when I was at the yard. But they look to be almost double the thickness.. Once I get the 5.2 in there, I'll mess around cutting a set. That way I don't' feel so bad if I cut too much. Keep GOING man. E

I LIKES IT!! I wanted to do this to our 92 way back when we had the youngins, but wifey said no.. I recently traded a 87 crx si for a 96 Cherokee that's 2wd, 2dr, 4cyl, 5spd, 8.25 (4-10's) and am getting all the suspension figured out. The idea is to drop in a carb'd 5.2 that I freshened up and put on some EQ heads, with a reground cam. That will be bolted to a NV3550(?) from a '97 Ram 1500. I've been messing with all sorts of cars/machinery for the past 30+yrs and had an extra set of Conquest rims 7-8's but had to mill the center out some. If my Comanche was your color, I'd have done it to that one. BUT, I needed room for 3 adults now. That's why the Cherokee... Your Comanche looks great so far. I'd say just need a little taller tire. Not much, but taller. Errol

I had the same issue with our jeeps. Just go to the local pull it or person parting out on C/L and get the REAR door pin brackets, pins and the 'holding' arm assy in the door. Since they don't get used that much, it tightens up everything. And while you're in there, grease it all up with a water resistant grease. OR if that's not an option for you, drill out what's left of the hole in holder and arm and drop in a short 1/4" bolt. Since 1/4 is a bit bigger than the 10mm, that 'should' tighten it up too. Also, if the pin is worn some, you can pop it out and widen it with an awl some and drive it in upside down. (maybe that would be a good thing to stockpile from the pull it's) Errol

...!!! I just shot in the dark by posting here. WOW. they look NOS. I'm only in need of the pass side if that's ok. It had a slight front end/drivers side 'booboo'. The pass side looks great I'll pm you my #. Thanks E

Nearly finished this swap to my 96 2dr cherokee and went with a headlight wire upgrade (and maybe tomorrow a 136a alternator..) as per Cruisers recomendation. BUT... Stil having issues with the headlight wiring connecting to the '97's harness and then to the turn signals. I've seen some pics but they're pretty usless. Like the other guy, my chiltons and son's Hanes you can't even read them for how small they are. Ken, pm'd me some info but the colors just don't jive.. (YES, I know it's an older thread. BUT still need answers) E