81Chero

Never had it before on road vehicle (1-tractor did) but had son with me coming from a salvage yard and don't know what really started it but alarmed me and scared the ____ out of him.. Only did it once since I've had it but nonetheless. When I got it i did the wheel tug on it but that was sitting for a while and didn't feel all that bad. Going after church today to look under it and see what's up. Also, if I'm going to be replacing stuff, Are there any brake upgrades for the MJ's? (maybe I should start another thread) E

Reviving this so I don't have to stsart a new post. My truck is a '88 Pioneer/Comanche with a 4-FOUR cyl. I just spent about 5hrs digging around at a yard that i knew had some older Jeeps. Found one that had the same speedo connection and did the happy dance.!! Got home and sstarted pulling my dash all apart (finding all sorts of crap from 230K+ miles) Cleaned as much as I could on the 'new' cluster to go in and was all excited. Even found a original clock to go in along side. Got it all back in, along with the sending units for them.......... NO TACH or OIL PRES or FUEL and Volts goes to 9.. Very disappointed to say the least. Especially the tach. If you don't know me.. "I HATE WIRING" and this just re-enforces this feeling. Most every thread that I've read (even on other sites states it's plug and play) Of course, I know they're used sending units. They will get changed out this next week. Just don't know where to start 'checking'. Cluster or sending units. REMEMBER.. It's a 4cyl if that matters. PeeJ Did you guys ever figure this out? What happened? Errol

A few years ago I got into Mitsubishi turbo motors and drive trains. On one of the sites was a Genius fab man who was making his own bell housings to accept a 4g63, 4g64 and the 6g72. One of the trannys that he favored was the R154 from a Toyota Supra. Also the lesser expensive W58 and 151. Those just happen to look EXACTLY like the Ax-15. (I knew I saw it somewhere else) NOW.. what if the bell housings for the Toyota tranny's could come off and THEN one could bolt on/in a R154 Surpa twin turbo trans in a JEEP? I'm going to pull this bell off the trans I got from the pull-it and then see if it will bolt to the W58 that I have. I'll try and take pics. (who knew that I already had 3 ax-15 tranny's.. E

The "4WD" factor really throws people in all these JEEP forums. It seems to me that i really have to stress that its' a 2wd since when anyone mentions JEEP, they think 4WD! i may be the oddball, but I don't have a need 4wd for pretty much ANY application in what I do here. It doesn't get snow like up north where I grew up, I don't go trailing or mudding. And usually don't overload whatever it is that I'm driving. To make matters worse, I've spent hours last night reading all sorts of things on the nv3500. IE, that the 3550 looks just like it but was used in later years. Well poop.. That doesn't help someone at a 'pull it' scrounging around, looking under vehicles at tranny's that have inches of crap caked to them for decades. And who knows if a part was swapped back when.. (You usually find that out AFTER the 'warranty' runs out) AND, none of the articles state when I'll have to upload the pics to Imageshack and then post what I bought. I just don't understand how someone can let their rig/car/truck/lawn mower get so covered in sludge/crap/mud.. This Pioneer that I got for my son was SUPPOSED to be owned by a "mechanic" but there's about 1/4" of grime all in the engine compt.. BUT, coming from Philadelphia, it's surprisingly void of rust most everywhere under it.!! Anywho, I gotta jet off. Errol

NOPE.. It's a nv3500 with the metric bellhousing. (I've read several sites with pics, like Alpar and Wiki that show what I've got. The Ax15 has the Iron center section like a Toyota W58) I have two other nv3500's, One is an '00 and the other is a '97. The 97 is going in my '88 Mighty max behind a 5.2 magnum motor from a Grand Cherokee w/Eq heads. The '00 didn't have the electric speedo, So I got the 97 from a ram1500 to make it work. OH, these are ALL two wheel drive also. E

OK, looked around for another 4cyl just to have a 'spare' that I'll rebuild for my sons truck. And the Holy Spirit told me to go to this particular 'yard' in a VERY cultural area with REAL friendly ladies that look to be in good shape with all the walking they do.. Looked around and didn't find many jeeps in the 80's, and as I was walking out I see a dog ugly Dakota. Got prompted again to go have a look and BINGO! A '01 Dodge Dakota with a 2.5 and 5spd!! Long story but got both the engine/trans and thought that maybe I could just swap the 4spd out for the NV3500.. Has anyone done this swap? And Are there any 'issues' with drive shaft length between a Dakota and a Comanche? If possible, to post pics if you may have some. I'll be steam cleaning mine with the engine later this week since it's looking to be warmer, then i can show what I've got to swap.. thanks Errol

Thank you for all the good advise. This is for my son and although I have a 4.0 short block built up already, i don't need him to be getting tickets or acting stupid. The 4-cyl will suffice for now. Does anyone know if the air conditioning compressor is the same between the two? Another thing, Does it have 15mm bolts all over it? (I don't understand who came out with THAT SIZE??. They should be taken out in a field and beat..) Off to Harbor freight.. E

Good evening, Since buying a 88 pioneer for my son with the 2.5/4spd/3.31, I've been looking into getting another motor and or trans just to re-build and wait for the renix one do die.. Well they seem to be scarce near me and was out at a yard to look for a cluster to swap out, and I come across a hideously painted o1 Dakota with the 4cyl.. Not much if anything has been removed and thought if I can get out early one morning, I could pull the whole engine and harness for what it would cost for a long-block core +shipping to me. I've read some of the swap to 4.0's and really don't want that for my son anyway. Is the swap to the Chrysler MPI worth it if it's all there? Would I have to pull the dash harness as well for splicing? or is everything needed right in the engine compartment? (ecu and such) I didn't read anything in the DIY section about it. Also, wanted to know if it could be done in about a week or so? (I'm pretty decent with tools and machinery) That means running.. If its' like a month or two just to figure out the wiring, well then I'll just pull the motor and swap the short blocks out. Links with pics would help out lots.. Thought I should post this instead of PM'ing folks might be better since I'm new here. Thank you. Errol

You don't state what engine you have. On my 88 with a 2.5 the tension is made by tightening the power steering pump assembly bolt underneath the pump res. . (the Idler pulley can make a more of a whining and or erratic noises, NOT rhythmic as much) Have you checked the tension of the belt? Or twist the belt to look for cracks in the ribs. (hint. the looser the belt, the more you can twist it while in place) One way i would check what's squealin is to use some carb cleaner with a jet tip and shoot short bursts onto the ribs when running, It momentarily get's it sticky, grips and squeak goes away. BUT, if its a pulley, its' most likely a bearing in said pulley. Another thing is some HD hair spray in/on the ribs. We would use it in a pinch as a belt dressing. Belts don't squeak on the smooth side, unless there's a ton of tension on it and the smooth pulley has stopped. Now depending on the mileage and accessories on the front of the engine, it can be more than one thing like stated above. Water pump has a weep-hole that usually weeps along with the whining-grinding-squealing. Alternator usually has more of a grinding-squealing along with too hot to touch temps (fried regulator) Idler as stated above. Power steering (if you have it) is more of a guttural grinding/gurgling that get's louder with cap off. (Ever heard a FORD's p/s pump whining from a block away??) OH, and turn the steering wheel for a change in sound too. Never heard of Balancer making noise but hey, if the vulcanized ring is squished out like a poor gasket repair than who knows? Maybe.. Well, I take that back. If the ribs on the crank are polished shiny smooth, and the belt is brittle it could. Just my .02 Errol

It was just a though.. I've been messing with OBD-0 and OBD-1 hondas for a long time and it wasn't too hard to bolt on a larger throttle body, convert to a 4-wire O2 sensor and maybe larger injectors, BUT it made a very noticeable difference in response and low end torque. Probably a 50% gain in the output in those early engines. Stock was 113 and with a header and those mods one was up to about 150- and up with high comp pistons. (same engine mods but custom tuning like Chrome and turbo edit are more than doubling those figures) A side lined project of mine is to install a LT1 Chevy in a 98 BMW 328i vert, and wanted to install 3 Chrysler 3.5 t/b's on the top of the manifold and do away with the EGR and IAC and run it as speed density. I've talked with a couple LT1 tuners and they said that it could be done ($$$) and i've already got a stand alone harness. My inspiration came from this vid and thought WHY NOT.. He made his own intake from those above mentioned t/b's And YES, I know that it wouldn't be worth it for some, and there would only be minimal results in HP or torque, BUT, I'm still looking for a good used tig welder and just happen to find a '01 Dakota (with an absolute HORRIBLE paint job) at a pull-it this evening.. To which I'll be asking another couple of questions started in another thread. And yes, I doo understand that it's a different operating system also. From what I've read, it seems like the OBD-2 might lend itself to 'tweeking' of the ECU. (I wonder if most of the operating harness is in the engine compartment) It's more of a challenge to me. Errol

Just like it states. I'm looking for a 2.5 Header to fit a comanche (if that body style matters). don't mind if its a little scaly with some rust. i can blast it clean and go from there. PM me what you've got. OR if you've seen someone (vendor) selling some cheap. Thanks Errol

I've been messing with motors for a few decades and with each engine/make that I get, I can't help but think of making it the way I WANT. Now that I got this Comanche, and found a core motor to build up, I thought of modding the intake for two throttle body assemblies. OR, if I do MPFI, then two horizontal throttle bodies like dual side draft carbs using 3.5L t/b's So, getting back to the stock version. Can this be done that say I made the intake would have dual stock t/b's, and just splice/split in the wires to run two..? And yes, do the vacuum lines also. Thoughts and Ideas.. E

Make sure none of the search filters are highlighted on the left side of the search page, if I search "Items I participated in" it stays highlighted and only searches those items until I click that filter again, eliminating it. "filters"?? I just type in the little box in the upper right corner.. NO filters that I see. I'm on several sites that ask for all sorts of parameters and get the same results. NUTTIN. Then, I just google it and get tons of hits from that very site.. don't' understand it. Thanks guys for all the info. Looks like there are a lot of peeps that would do it. (THAT'S WHY I MADE IT IN THE DIY SECTION) It SHOULD be in there. The problem that I find down here is in the hot summer months, I think that they overheat and start leaking. And in the colder climates, (below zero) they pull up on the hatches and by spring their shot and don't hold) I've never seen Cherokee struts down here in yards that are still worth pulling for those reasons. Thanks again guys. E

Good morning. Did a couple of searches and am wondering if I have a virus or something because this isn't the only site that my searches end up saying "NOTHING FOUND" try again.. SO, has anyone found a way to utilize another vehicle's hood support struts to get away from always using the support rod. thanks E

The "vise grip" was always my go-to like automan. BUT what about the other end of the truck? Anyone made a conversion or kit for the FRONT hood? I searched, but didnt' find anything in the DIY sections. Thanks E

Thank you Sir. just picked up a '88 Pioneer (miser) E

This will be my FIRST Comanche. Didn't know that the 'tone ring' was on the flywheel.. On our '92 cherokee, I never had to mess with the engine or ignition either. "NOT PROGRAMMED TO RECEIVE" ..?? I'm not stupid.. Just wanting to know about the bell housing from doing research on a truck for my son. I'm NO know it all by any means. Got several projects going on at the same time, and a good deal fell in my lap to be a blessing. Just gathering info man.. Errol

SO, ALL THESE engine choices could be mounted to this METRIC bellhousing?? That would be cool to bolt in a Northstar in the comanche! Wish I could bolt in a 4.1 Buick V6 from a Riv that I got. But that's a BOP fitment. E

Benjy, I have one from my '64 Chevy C50 out back.. The '64 is slated for a Allison 545, but might stay with a manual NV4500 and convert to Hydro clutch for my blasting truck. (not sure if I want to be shifting that big truck in stop and go Memphis traffic) It's going to have '00 fr/rr axles from a dually and the Dana 80 out back is going to have Super Single semi wheels with adapters. Kinda 'hot rod' look and rake. So message me or here if interested. I can give you the bolt pattern too. (actually can get more of them if needed, with or without PTO) Driver.. Don't know what the pic is for. Not really following you. But thanks for the addition nonetheless. I've got probably 40yrs of parts and several transmissions that are rebuilt ready to go into 'something', so there's really not going to be a BIG expense on my side. And, also installing a NV3500 into a '88 Mighty max long bed, 1-ton with a 5.2 magnum and Yota p/u rear with 3.73 gears.. (should be fun, but NOT for HIM) E

The ones you listed are not for the AMC 2.5 that you have.....these are for the GM version of the 2.5, not the 84 up AMC/Chrysler. ...? They BOTH show that they are for the AMC 2.5 that's why I asked. Or, is it that amc just grabbed some other makes pistons for these motors? And the comp ratio, I thought that I read somewhere that the 88's had comp in the 8's. Must have missed that one. Also, I don't "facebook" and probably never will if I can help it. Pretty much a waste of time if ya ask me E

I've been raising compression on many different engines for a long time, and they all ran tons better. THanks for the help E

Read this on Alpar and want to know if this is true? http://www.allpar.com/mopar/amc-25.html That would mean that (theoretically) I could use GM transmissions? Comments please! E

Don't know if these will work or not with that huge dish. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Silv-O-Lite-Hyper-Coated-Pistons-1979-93-Pontiac-AMC-151-L4-2-5L-040-Set-Of-4-/390960047587?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5b0708e5e3&vxp=mtr Or these.. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-h822cp20?seid=srese1&gclid=CKP_5K7R-MICFafyMgodrHAAKw E

I'd like to get around 9.5-10:1 and was wondering if pistons might be able to swap from other models/makes to raise comp besides having custom pistons made. I'm picking up a '88 comanche 5spd for my son, but it's got 230K on it. So, I'm going to be either looking for another 2.5 or start storing up parts. It runs OK from what I've witnessed but couldn't drive it due to a e-brake cable 'pull' breaking and couldn't release it, since it was on a hill.. Sounds like its in need of a tune up and probably vacuum line replacement. OH, I've been 'wrenchin' for decades and always want an extra engine to have as a safety. But having a little more comp is always good thing. Just joined to get insight on the 4cyl that's in the little Pioneer. (well, that and some other little stuff..) had a few 'other' Jeeps too. thanks E