CGCWO

What’s everyone doing for replacement brake lines. Looks like I need to replace mine and probably both the front and rear proportioning valves.

It fits, now to find the right winch to go in there and get the OEM front bumper fitted.

@eaglescout526to the rescue.... lol!

Of course you do. Sent you a PM.

12/24/20: 1987 SWB Pioneer 4x4 auto 4.0 Renix fair interior, rusted floor boards, bad paint (clear coat mostly gone) some minor front fender damage (rear of fenders) suspect from mis-aligned doors. Ran rough, trans slow to shift, but overall I drove it home 9 miles for $2800. Probably to much... and found a lot of little issues after digging in. 1/15/21: 1986 XLS LWB 4x4, partial 3.4 swap, non-driver with a bed full of spare parts/junk. Busted grill and header panel, sun rot on rear flares and mis-matched tailgate good interior with original buckets, full console and headliner. Delivered for $1200. Pioneer will have around $6-7 in when it’s a daily. won't be for sale. XLS no clue yet as to where I am going with it. If I can get it done and reliable it will likely go to my 30 year old son. Then we will need one more to pass them all down the the twin grandsons and their little brother.

Looking for a working throttle body for the RENIX 4.0. TIA.

Productive day; new brake booster installed, new CPS, new dizzy and degreased the engine bay and under side of hood. Also received the BDBTSB winch mount. this goes here

I had C105 disconnected to do some re-routing and cleaning up the wiring harness, but the alternator harness is there. This yellow wire runs with the harness from the alternator up towards the C105, but splits off with the larger gauge red (with fuseable link) that goes to the starter relay.

No fuseable link in this wire. I guess it could have been cut off. Still no answer.

Not sure yet as the truck is down waiting on new dizzy. I was going to check the cap and rotor button and discovered the PO had cross threaded one of the screws. It broke off when trying to remove the cap. I tried to no avail to extract it and re-thread the hole. Screw was to jammed in and the body of the dizzy is very soft, so basically a lot of cussing and a broken drill bit. Once I get the new one and have her running again I am going to check if the wire has any power going to it at all. The only connection for the wire is at the alternator with the tan/brown stripped wire. I’ve read back through several alternator threads and am still confused as to if it has a place.

Time consuming and a royal pain in @$$ but it needed to be done and is definitely worth the effort.

Also picked this up off marketplace to replace the idiot light cluster. It’s from a 90 RENIX so should be plug and play once I change out the sensors.

Tomorrow’s projects: new CPS, refreshed the cover that goes over the hole in the trans and will see if I can get it back in place. New brake booster and master cylinder. This one I am not looking forward to, but I need brake help badly.

While waiting on new dizzy to come in I decided to spend the day finishing checking and refreshing factory splices and cleaning up the wiring harness in the engine bay. No reason I chose yellow and red zip ties just what I pulled out of the stash.

Installed mine in the full console. For under the hood I reoriented the diagnostic port so the the cat5 wire now feeds towards the firewall. Haven’t permanently routed the cable into the console yet.

Just realized I miss read your reply. There are no single bullet connectors that I found in the area, and I do not appear to be having issues with the charging system. I’ve run at idle for probably 3 hours and driven about 5 miles so we shall see.

So theoretically this yellow wire should go to the starter relay with the larger gauge red wire?

Gleaning up some more of the wiring mess the PO did and found this. Yellow wire coming from alternator not connected to anything. I have a 87 Renix 4.0 with basic cluster, but will be swapping to a 90 full cluster soon. I have gone back through several alternator post and still am not sure where this should connect? The brown/tan striped wire goes in to a separate connector. As it should from what I’ve read. thanks for any help you can provide.

Well things never go as planned. Got the exhaust done. Was warming her up a little before attempting the O2 sensor removal. After shutting her down decided to take a good at distributor cap and rotor button. This is where things take turn. PO cross threaded one of the cap screws and sure enough it snapped off. Was going to try and drill it out but after pulling the dizzy I think I’ll replace it along with the cap and wires.

Looks like I am on the upper side of the age range (56). Joined back in 2013 ish finished first build in 2014/15. Was out of the group until December when I picked up the 87 Pioneer and the 86 XLS. Still learning and appreciate all the knowledge no matter where or who it comes from.

Hope to find out today if the CPS was bad. I am pretty sure from the REMII readings that the O2 sensor is bad or at least faulty. Muffler had been dented on the bottom and was somewhat bent up. Cut it muffler and tail pipe off Monday to find that e muffler had a hole in the top of it. Being a bike rider I know this isn’t great for back pressure. Hope to get new muffler and tail pipe installed today also. Found a used (working throttle body) that I will be swapping with the current one. PO snapped one of the screws that seals the tube from the air filter. Being able to tighten that down should help.

Guy dropped the price $2k

Fairly decent 79 Cherokee on Market Place. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1483390651967668/permalink/2541745549465501/?sale_post_id=2541745549465501

Lots of vacuum line repair today, sorry no pics. Also cut the old exhaust off behind the cat in preps for new muffler and tail pipe.

So went through all the vacuum lines again today, found a couple that were heat damaged or just degraded (replaced those) also added the missing bulb behind the bumper. Sourced one of the metal cans from the 86 as a replacement. I am pretty sure I have ever vacuum line connected correctly now and still have a low idle 650 then drop to 450 occasionally. Tomorrow I’ll be digging back into the grounds that are in the wiring harness to double check and also looking for any bad splices from the factory. Made another trip around the neighborhood trans is starting to shift a bit better so another drain/fill with be in order this week. Getting a couple of codes on the REMII; distributor sync, lean from O2 sensor. Still learning the REMII.