kook911

I am also about to do this. I picked up a 95 and I have a question. Do I need to buy all new line and form the line or what do I do? Also if I do need to buy new line then how much line do I need to pick up?

I'm looking for captin seat brackets as I do not want to modify my bench seat ones. Also looking for a ax-15 complete swap. Needs to be 4x4. The brackets I will pay for shipping if someone has them.

Well it seems that by spraying PB blaster then carb cleaner to get all the hunk off and following up with WD-40 makes the door work correctly. Ran out of time today and will finish up the other door. It's all the old PO stuff that makes me wonder why a person thought that was a bright ideal to do.

I also am having the same problem but mine is just the oil pressure gauge. My question is can I just cut the wire to the send run a new wire to the back of the gauge? As this seems the easiest way and I think it would be a little hard to trace the wore all the way.

Ok I'll try the pb blaster. Also I have a extra set of door locks that I snagged off a 88 xj. I wanted a project but man this is turning into more then I wanted, but thanks for the help

Ok new problem here and can't find the answer by searching. When I lock my driver or passenger side doors they will not unlock from the outside with the key. I can hear the lock turning but it will not unlock. I have to go inside and pull the wire bar to get it to open. I there is no problem with the doors when they are unlock. Also I can lock the doors outside of the truck with the key, but it will not unlock from the outside. Is there a rebuild kit that I can buy?

Well glad you figured out the problem as I just had the same problem. PO rigged a trailer light up also and had to figure out that mess.

Just asking is there a way to tell if the system is hold pressure or not?

Are you converting it to a open system?

So the only thing that it can be then is the clutch is not disengaging or the pressure plate is rubbing somewhere. I don't know maybe the slave is going out. Bc at this point I am out of ideals of what it can be and that seems like the only thing left. Thanks to all that is helping.

I have no trouble turning a wrench and folling directions. All I did was follow what you wrote. I found that my cps is at a reading of .2. From what you wrote it should be changed out. Is there a write up on how to modify the sensor?

Ok so i check the tps and that is good. When I check the cps it only showed .2, so I'm guessing that it is bad? I never have a problem with it starting after it stalls out but I have read that the cps can stall out the truck. Also isd there a easy way to get the cps out? I just want this problem solved. Hate to do it but I might have to drop it off at the shop if I can't get it to run right.

Been doing some more research and don't know if it could be the problem or not but some people say that the CPS or TPS can cause my stalling that I am experiencing. So after work tomorrow I will be checking them out.

Thats good stuff right there.

I will get to it tomorrow and the problem is still there, but I did notice that it dropped my idle back down. So I will need to find why it is dropping idle.

Man was the a hell of a chore finding this gremlin, but i have found it and now everything works like it should. I started with the front connector and that thing was nasty so I do recommend cleaning it if you ever take your front end off. But that did not fix my problems. After I was pretty sure that the problem was not in the front lights, I moved on to the back and discover that hack job the PO did to the wires. He wired up a trailer light and it was all hacked in. So I unhooked that and got the wires back to where they should be. Also freshen up the ground while I had the taillights off. That screw had to be drilled out as it was rusted and PB blaster did not effect it at all. Put a new bolt in and made a test run and everything works.So in the end I believe that what kept blowing my fuses was the hack job for the trailer light. But thanks all for the help and till next time.

Ok here is my new problem. I am having trouble with most of my lights and I will tell you what is working. My headlights work and so do my brake lights. The running lights or parking lights will not light up in the front (side markers) or the tail lights will not light up. Also the license plate lights will not light up either. I did also notice that when I hit the turn single that the left side works but the right side does not work. I checked all the fuses and none are blown. Any help will be appreciated.

here is a pic and I circle it in black.

well I had a guy twisting the screw all the way close. then i had him turn it till it could run with the clutch disengage. Then we backed it off till it was running fine.

I followed it and it not at extacly 1000rpm. It's below 1k rpm. But it doesn't die so that to me is good. My auto xj idles at about the same as the mj.

I follow this post, but it was the screw on back throttle body. I can get a picture tomorrow but it's the screw that when you rev the motor by hand it sticks out just a little bit and has a hole on the other side to stick the Allen rench threw. I flet the need to write the following just because some guys fought high idle issues because of "Uncle Bob". Cruiser’s Renix Throttle Body Butterfly Adjustment Okay. Let's start from scratch. First off, that's not an idle adjustment screw. It's a throttle butterfly stop screw. It's purpose is to allow the butterfly to be as close to completely closed as it can be without binding or wearing into the throttle body. It was never intended to be adjusted in the field. But, Uncle bob didn’t know that, did he? Engine off. Back off the butterfly stop screw with a 3/32" allen wrench until the butterfly is completely closed. Now. turn the screw in until the FAINTEST movement of the butterfly opening is detected. This can be done more easily with the throttle body removed. If you remove the throttle body, be sure to replace the gasket underneath it after thoroughly cleaning the old one off. Revised 07/07/2012

Well Cruiser you help me out and didn't even know it. Well I think I figured it out. I found where you responded to someone else thread where they were having the same problem where if they stop they would also stall out and die. You told them to check the throttle butterfly and idle it up. Well I was idling at around 500ish. I had helped and turned it up and now it doesn't stall out. I turned it up to about 1000ish. Runs like a charm.

Ok back to this problem how. I had to replace the head as the bottom bolt of the thermostat bossing broke off. Got everything button back up and running and still got this problem. I did check for any issues that the pedal could be causing and it is all clear nothing in the way. The truck will idle without stalling out. If this problem can be figured out I will have a good running truck.

oh wow that does not look good at all. best of luck to you

Paul 1987 Sport Truck I6/4x4 Arlington TX