CRF136N

:doh: LOL, I dunno :rotf:

Well, I'm bored and my brain is fried from doing paperwork all day, so I figured I would post an update. Haven't gotten as far as I would have like to on the truck, but I have made a little progress. First off: Thanks! Thanks again, BUT red seems to be a bad-luck color for me. Doesn't matter what type of vehicle it is (car, truck, motorcycle, snowmobile, etc), if its red, something bad ALWAYS happens to it, so I gave up on that color :shake: ANYWAY, I did get my rear suspension stuff ordered. I pulled my fender flares off with the intension of painting them. Finished the wiring for the taillights; I just cut the wire going to the top brakelight and ran a wire from the cab to the rear so now both top and bottom bulbs run the running lights, the bottom bulb brite glow is the turn signals and the top brite glow is the brake lights. This way everything works. I also pulled the nice rear bumper off my other MJ before I sell it...just in case; for the $1,500 bux I'm selling that one for, I don't think a rear bumper would make or break the deal (you got to understand my big concern with this, I live in snow country where our #1 industry is tourism, most of which tourists have never seen snow before and don't know how to drive in it; and while its entertaining watching them stop in the middle of the road in a blizzard to put cables on the rear wheels of their front wheel drive cars, etc...its also a scary thought as they cause MANY accidents here) Got around to cleaning up the interrior a bit: (a mistake just before getting the new windshield installed as they made a mess in there :ack: ) And did a quickie on the engine bay: Also stripped the headliner frame and overhead consol, now got to come up with a plan for doing this right, the first time: And finally, some junkyard finds...I can now fill the holes in my dash; Also going to try to make a drop-in cup holder for my current center consol, but as a backup if that doesn't work, I picked up this '98 XJ consol for $20bux, while I hate the thought of "spray painting" that consol because it won't be right, to have cup holders will be so worth it Anyway, thats it for now :cheers: James

Basically, I got the front lift from the donor...PO of that XJ said it was a 3.5"...I like it at that height with 31's as it looks great and is relatively off road capable, any higher and it will take away from practical DD use, SO, not doing an SOA...decided on the Hell Creek 3" leaf packs as I didn't want to go the add-a-leaf route. Unloaded it measures about 2.75" difference between the front and rear, so I figure the Hell Creek springs will get me close to level & I can block/shakle from there to fine tune the height if need be. They are going to hook me up with some rear shocks...dunno what kind, don't really care...I trust their knowledge as they seem to know what they are doing. From there I am going to go to my local Summit Racing and get some spring perches to mount my Chrslyer 8.25 under the rear (mainly to match the gear ratios, so I can get my 4x4 working). -yes, I know, I was getting ahead of myself in the thread claiming the 3.55 gears as I am currently running the 3.07, but I drove the donor for 5 months before I did the swap, so I know what to expect. LOL, I was all excited, and getting my buddies pumped about doing the HO swap, and its almost an embarassment right now with that 3.07 :shake: Ya, their definately fun...but its a highly additive and expensive habit...then I started racing earlier this year (desert, enduro, hare scrambles, etc) and I got completely sucked in, beyond hope with no end in sight. I now have to coordinate my work and personal life around my racing/riding schedule as it is now priority :shake: :nuts: Fortunately I have a very understanding boss and my GF left me (over other reasons), so I can make it happen. Amen to that "electric and kick start"; the whole reason why I sacrafised for the extra weight on my 450, so I could have that magic button :yes: My poor streetbike is just sitting and collecting dust now :wall: Prob gonna sell it :( I need the money to get another smaller, lighter 250 dirtbike for the more technical courses anyway (oh ya, and put some more $$$ into the MJ; still need that damn spray in bedliner!!!). Would be interested to see how that Silverstar turns out. So I bet that MJ of yours with the stroker and the 4.11 gearing prob spins those tires with quite a bit of ease :brows: BTW, great looking truck...usually not a big fan of chrome, but you definately did it right :yes: James

Understood. No offense was taken either, was simply explaining my reasoning for starting the thread as it seemed hornbrod was suggesting the question of why I posted on this forum instead of elsewhere. I appreciate the info I did recieve, between this forum and other sources, I have decided against the mod and have already spent the money on other things (finishing the rear suspension work :brows: ). Sure I could get the exact dyno results, but as pointed out, (as with any mod) despite what the dyno says as there are many factors to consider, I wanted a general, "real world" YES, ITS ABSOLUTELY WORTH IT!!! or DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY. Kinda like if I were to ask about an air intake vs stock airbox, obviously an intake would would be popular vote that would make the investment worth it. Between the couple responses on this forum and the people I have spoken with who have personal experience, I have decided its not worth the investment. Done decision, over with...not gonna loose any sleep over it either, money was better spent where I spent it anyway :yes: James

Please forgive me. Per the posting rules, I was under the assumpition there were no stupid questions, but appearantly I found one. I had just assumed seeing as how almost every MJ picture posted on this site had other (often newer) vehicles in the background, and many MJ's are spoken of as 2nd vehicles, maybe someone modded one of those other daily drivers and has some real world experience. Furthermore, many on here seem to Jeep with other Jeepers (some of which are newer), whom of which may have modded their Jeeps with a chip. I was simply looking for a general consensus from the few of those who have a little knowledge and/or experience from other references knowing that its rare an MJ is ever modded like this. The internet has become a big place, and to get specific information can be very time consuming, was just trying to save a little. I will be more selective with my questions from now on :thumbsup: James

Sweet, thanks for the info...not gonna get it. Already got one :thumbsup: James

Thanks! This is the kind of info I am looking for...anyone else with experience with the JET chip? Ya, a stroker would be nice, but a little out of my budget...besides the HO runs fine as is, so until there is any issue, I'm not going to mess with it; I just want to use it to its full potential. I also understand gearing can help considerably, but I have to juggle that perfect balance that will optimize power, with fuel economy...this isn't a race truck, nor is it a wheeler...just a nice dd and I'm trying to get as close to an 18-20mpg average as possible, and turning 31's I don't need to go too crazy with it...I am happy with the 3.55's. I just began to toy with the thought of a nice, quick plug and play mod that may help. James

Thats a very broad question. You will never be able to find all parts for your MJ, new at least. If you do, let us know. It really depends on what you need. Sometimes you can luck out by calling Jeep for OEM parts; although many mj specific body parts are discontinued and sold out. Aftermarket OEM style parts are near impossible, unless its a common mechanical replacement part through a parts house. Some aftermarket custom/mod parts are avail...quardratec is a good source, so is summit racing, ebay and misc others I'm sure will be added to this list. Otherwise, your hitting the junkyards. Learn what is interchangeable between the comanche and cherokee; and what is not. And as many people have said, if you run across an MJ at a salvage yard with good parts BUY THEM even if you don't need them :smart: You will always be able to make your money back, and then some by selling them either on ebay or on this site...some people are willing to pay above average for good stuff (beyond salvage yard value), and they will only appreciate in value as these parts are getting harder to find. Thats my two cents. Good luck. James

So now that I have swapped the complete '94 HO setup in my MJ, I guess I have the ability to "chip" it; I can get a reputable JET chip for a couple hundred bucks...but is there enough benefit in a chip to justify the couple hundred dollars spent??? Also, has anyone experienced a chip in a 4.0, and if so was there any increase or decrease of fuel economy? Finally, being as there is 160k on the clock, should I not mess with it to avoid additional wear and tear in a well broken in motor? Not looking to win any races or anything, but living at 7,000 ft elevation, every little bit helps when climbing those mountain passes, especially when towing a trailer (and having to pass all those who choose to enjoy the mountain scenery at 35 mph in a 55 zone...and manage to not see the line of 25 cars behind them as they pass 12 pull-outs :headpop: ). That said, one final question, I guess there is the option of 2 or 3 different stages of chips. Obviously I don't have a built truck, but I do have some other mods (Intake, header, exhaust), and for whatever reason I fill the thing with Chevron premium grade fuel every time :dunno: :nuts: so I'm used to it and don't care if I HAVE to use premium like the higher stage chips require, and since they are the same price, do I go with that or just the stage 1??? Any info would be great. Thanks James

So, I have succesfully racked up about 400 miles on the truck since the conversion, with no mechanical issues :cheers: Definately happy with the result. Priced out the parts today for the rear suspension to finish the lift...ouch; I figure by the time all said and done I'll need to drop about $600 bux; been eyeing the 3" lift spring packs from Hell Creek, along with shocks...after I get that all on, then comes the 8.25 axle mods to fit. I just might have to run around a bit longer with my comanche pre-runner ;) until I get more $$$ to finish the rear. Oh well, I must be doing something right because I was sitting in my MJ outside of a 7-11 yesterday, waiting for someone, when a guy approached me begging me to name a price and sell the truck to him because he thought it was the "most bad-@$$ truck he had ever seen" :yes: I confidently said "Its not for sale, but thanks for the compliment" I'm beginning to put the interrior back together -slowly-. The only real "bug" I have to work out of it still is the a/c compressor won't kick on when selected on the controls, but it works great when bypassed (on a good note, got the a/c charged and the mech said it had excellent pressure in the system, so it should be good to go for a long time :thumbsup: ) I'll bypass it completely if I have to with a switch on the dash. I still need a windshield and spray in bed liner though. I'm also debating a 2-tone paint scheme on the rockers to repair some chipped paint...I like it all white, and don't want a whole repaint, but the white on it has aged a bit and I think it will look obvious if I get just the flares and rockers re-painted white, so I am toying with the idea of flat black :dunno: The flares are the worst, so I may sand them and do them in black primer to see how it will look; maybe just the flares in black will satisfy me. A project for another day. But for now: My dirtbike doesn't fit in this MJ as well as it did my longbed, but it works :clapping: James

So, curious...I thought I read somewhere on here that the fuel gauge would not only read backwards, but inaccurately. For this reason, I wasn't going to mess with it...but maybe I am mistaken. Is is this true about the inaccuracy, or will it be realtively accurate and just read backwards, because I can deal with that, I just don't want it lying to me. If this is the case, I guess I can use some help with the wire colors to mate on that because that one will be a search otherwise. So, now what? I guess I could use your cheat sheet after all :doh: No rush though, because it works for now...I just have to be careful when I stop in my lane of travel with cars barreling down on me as I wait for traffic to clear to make a left hand turn. :(

So its a download I guess to get this Comanche for some video game, but it is SICK looking...that would make for an awesome blueprint for an MJ project; MAD PROPS to the guy that designed this one, check it out...click the link and scroll almost to the bottom, its the blue/silver one :clapping: http://www.freewebs.com/akor_nytro/4x4evolution.htm

Like I say, electrical is my weakness...and this is where I become baffled; especially when trying to combine two different systems. I don't see how it could make a difference; if I took one wire (from the brake light switch) and split it into two, then connect each end to each of the tailights "bright glow" terminal wire, and one turn signal wire to each taillights "bright glow" wire, so there are two separate wires going into each taillights bright glow wire. Theoredically it should be a symmetrical connection to each taillight, so if one works, then why doesn't the other? :fs1: LOL, maybe I am overly complicating this, but why can't things just work right!!! :wall: Its almost as if there is a short or something in the left tailight, preventing the flasher from operating when the second current is there...but I examined what I could see of the wires and plugs, and everything looks fine. :???:

Hey JeepcoMJ; I just couldn't stand not driving the truck anymore. I went at it with a test light this morning and was able to figure out the wires, for the most part (enough to make it street legal). Running lights, turn signals, backup and brake lights are all connected. Only thing I can't figure out, is when my brakes are on, the right turn signal works as it should, but the left one does not blink, although it does turn on; but it does blink normally when the brakes are not applied. I tried replacing the bulbs, and that did nothing. :hmm: For the brake lights, I couldn't find that extra prong in the plug, so I just tapped into the white wire coming off the switch and threaded it to the back of the cab, then split it to go to each brake light I am stoked to just be driving it; put about 80 miles on it today and it runs and drives like a brand new truck! Everything is so tight and solid feeling :banana: Was able to line up a welder to finish my exhaust and rear axle swap, so when I get the time I am going to get together with him. I have to chase down a wierd very intermittant noise coming from either the bell housing or -gulp- the back of the motor. It was a problem before the swap, but I hoped it was just a broken flex plate...and it wasn't. Then I re-assembled in hopes it was going to dissappear...and it didn't. Its kind of a chirping noise...very inconsistant, very unpredictable, but doesn't seem like one of those really threatening noises. Warm engine, cold engine...doesn't seem to matter. Most of the time, unloaded it doesn't ever do it. The only time it is a for sure thing, is if I am towing a load, which its more so appearant than any other time. I was able to find a cure for it though (when it was in the cherokee), rev the motor above 3,000 RPM once, and it would not do it again for as long as the thing was running, even hours of stop and go, no matter what you are towing through what type of conditions. Shut it off, and then re-start it and its back. I know everyone is going to point at a crank shaft bearing or something, and that is my fear...but are there any other possibilities? Can the torque converter make a noise like that? Was thinking about taking it into Jeep and seeing if they have any mech's that know this mid-'90s 4.0 setup inside and out, that may either be familiar with this as being a common noise, or may know what it might be. Its either that or I'll just turn the stereo up louder and keep driving it until something happens, if anything ever does. If that does happen, guess that'll be my excuse to invest in a stroker for the HO setup :) I just hope it will last a while; it didn't ever seem to get worse when I was driving the Cherokee, and I put quite a few miles on it. Anyway, I'm working on the odds and ends, touch up and detailing right now, so hopefully by weeks end I'll get some revised pics up. James

DUDE, your awesome, thank you!!! I ALMOST started a thread in tech to see if anyone could help me save some time with the wiring by giving me a cheat sheet to work with, but then decided I would just figure it out with the test light...but since you offer, I'll take the help! Ya, I managed to loose my center consol light wiring under the carpet, consol or seat, lol, so I gotta pull that up to find it...but I'm not too worried about that, if nothing else that'll just be a tap into the parking lights. Think while I have everything exposed, I'm gonna look into an option to mount a 3rd brake light on the truck, maybe some bitchin LED one or I'll wander pick-n-pull for awhile to explore my options (I've been rear ended twice now in other vehicles that didn't have one, both times its because the other driver claimed they didn't know I was stopping because of it...I'd hate for some dumb-@$$ to take out my nice, new OEM rear bumper :doh: ) Did you figure out anything easy out for the E-brake light? I havent even explored that one yet, but I can tell that idiot dash light being on is going to irritate me, and I would rather it work than not (just so everything works and the swap isn't a hack job).

I'm betting he used his old wiring and just spliced wires. I did the exact same conversion on my 87 wheeling truck....my solution was to just make a jumper harness to go between the two harnesses (95 and 87) so I could just disconnect them seperately and not have any crossed wires and such.. So the truck is running and driving!!! I took it for a 5 mile test drive today :banana: I am definately needing to get that other axle in it soon, and the rear lifted, but am so happy with the result otherwise. As for the wiring, I have two huge wads of wires at the back of my cab; one going to the front half (from the cherokee), and the other going to the back (the Comanche wiring) As of right now, I found the fuel pump wires from both harnesses and twist tied them together, lol. :roll: I have not connected anything else just yet. I do plan on just butt-connecting the wires together for the lights (possibly with the help of some tow accessory wiring as I think I may need that module that will adapt the independant turn signals to the combined system), and I will probably just connect the fuel pump wire, but I am also considering putting a switch right there at the back of the cab to connect fuel pump wires as an anti-theft device (because I am not into those noise producing alarm systems), and for a few bucks it seems worth it, but I dunno...just an idea. Electrical is my weakness. Still not sure what I am going to do about the fuel sending wire for the gauge. There has got to be an option for that, even if I have to somehow mount an outside (of the cluster) fuel gauge from the old cluster or -aftermarket???- and separate wire. :hmm: I want it to be a clean conversion w/o any crap, but I do need to know how much gas I got!!!. Anyway, when I get her all buttoned back up and detailed next week, I will post more pics! :yes: James

Chrysler makes nothing with a "Jeep" badge that is worth buying. Willy I hate to say it, but I agree. Most of their models now are such a sad disappointment. I understand they need to keep up with the fuel effeciency standards, but there had to be options other than making FRONT WHEEL DRIVE grocery getters. I actually test drove one of those "patriots" before I got my Subaru, just to give it a chance because I needed a fuel efficient dd :oops: :roll: What a joke that thing was. They were offering the "lifetime unlimited mileage warranty" at the time (dunno if they still do it), that was my primary reason...but then I realized to try and claim a blown tranny or motor or something at 200k miles would be nothing more than a headache as they will find some way to not warranty it by saying its "wear and tear" or something stupid. The Grands have been nothing but problems, LOTS of upkeep and repairs on those at my shop...I will never get a '99 or newer one of those. They finally made the Liberty only half as ugly, but still just not worth it to me. I thought the Commander was cool (aside from its rediculous price), until I found out all of their problems. I still am undecided on that new Wrangler; Its still the only remaining Jeep that is still kind of a Jeep, but definately not like they used to make them :cry: James

Maybe there's just something sick and twisted about me, but it kinda puts a smile on my face to get a real world idea of just what a jeep motor can go through before it gives up :yes: Everything from that newer red Grand Cherokee to that xj with 246,000 or whatever it had on it. I am seriously suprised they lasted that long. Guess that explains how some of these Jeeps that come into my shop keep going as well as they do, because I am amazed at how many people neglect their vehicles...never change the oil, let it all burn out or leak out, and when the motor starts to tick, they come in to discover their jeep was 5 quarts low on oil. Top it off (because their all too cheap to just get drain the little remaining oil and put a new filter on...whatever), and it runs like new again I would be curious to look and see just how long other vehicle brand motors last in comparison...but I have gotta be really bored to persue that one. So, is that one description correct that the dealers have to do this to every CARS trade in? I would imagine its quite a noisy, smelly, steamy and smoky display that most dealers wouldn't want their customers to witness, even in their back lot.?.

Oh hell, you can fix that...and don't waste your $$$ at a body shop. That part of the bumper isn't that durable and will bend easily. Get a big hammer and/or something to gently back the truck into to bend it straght again. Then grind the paint off, slap some bondo on it, sand, primer then satin black the whole thing. Prob $20 in parts and a couple hours of your time. I've fixed many XJ/MJ bumpers that way. James

Yep, just finishing mine right now from a '94 donor. Its in the MJ projects as "1987 SB 2wd --> 4wd HO conversion " EVERYTHING needs to be swapped, NOTHING is interchangeable. Best get yourself an entire vehicle to work with...No way I could've done it w/o a complete donor...at least not as easily and as cheap. LOTS of new/different things under hood, under dash, etc. and lots of little wires, vaccume tubes, nic-naks and trinkets that I have no clue what they do, but I swapped them anyway!!! I basically stripped my MJ to a shell on blocks, then stripped the donor, then began the transfer of parts. And no, as mentioned, the dash gauge cluster is different. Its actually amazing how many new/different parts swapped, that there were already mounting holes (never before used) in my '87, but these things didn't come along until the chrysler era...its like they could predict how they were going to be building the things in the future or something, lol. Made it easier on me. If you do it, be prepared for a LOT of work, but its so rewarding in the end :thumbsup: Good luck James

To think of all the rare MJ's, or any rare collector vehicle for that matter, especially in good condition, that are going to be sacraficed for this program is definately sad. On the up side of this though... 1) I have noticed Comanche owners are loyal...every time I see one around, I always leave my name and number or talk with the owner and say if they ever want to sell it, let me be their 1st call...every single one of them says they will never sell their MJ, and if they truck is in need of work, they always say they are itching to fix it up (and usually keep my # for assistance when the time comes). Furthermore, they all seem to know how rare and special they are. Granted, $$$ talks and $4,500 is a big number for a vehicle thats often times not near that value, but... 2) Our countrys financial system is in the crapper, and everyones credit went with it. Two years ago, I purchased a new car, as I had done in the past...Financed all of it, no co-signers, no problem. I had great credit. I have made my payments on time, and other than a couple minor dings on my credit, its still great...except it somehow has plummited to nothing. I couldn't get a $300 gas card if I wanted one now (I tried). Dunno how this happened, but I really don't care...I am over being in debt. I can assure you, most people are in this situation, and banks are scared to loan money to anyone that isn't well off financially. Furthermore, all who aren't well off, most likely don't have the cash in hand to buy outright. Of those who do have money, how many do you think have an MJ lying around? Not many... Just narrowing it down here...and the last savior for our beloved MJ's 3) To qualify, the vehicle must get an OVERALL AVERAGE of 18MPG or less. This would put all 4.0 4x4's in danger, but it looks like the 5-spd 4.0 and the 4 cyl 2wd's won't quite make that overall average according to www.fueleconomy.gov. It looks like the 4 cyl 4x4's will be spared too. That really narrows it down to just a few, and of those few, how many are really going to be traded in (the initial noted one on this thread aside), and of those, how many are going to be helpless rustbucket, bondo filled jalopys...if someone has a really clean and nice one, they appearanly have an attatchment to it. I'm just saying, the MJ isn't neccesarily doomed for the crusher. Most the vehicles that are going to be traded in, are going to be those vehicles (and you know the ones I'm talking about) that really shouldn't be on the road, or are just seemingly worthless, wasted space. We had a guy come into our shop with a rusted, falling apart beyond help Grand Wagoneer eyesore to have us swap out his new tires for some junk ones so he could go trade it in...I'd be suprised if it even made it to the dealer. I sure wish I could make it happen somehow with my 3/4 ton '89 F-250 that I can't afford to drive at its average 7 mpg, and I can't seem to sell because of it. Furthermore, it won't pass smog, which is not working to my advantage. Just my take on it

I know you are asking about motor oil and fuel additives, but for what its worth... -I once used this "awesome" Lucas Automatic Trans additive to help a tired tranny in an S-10 blazer and it made the tranny slip so bad, I had to push it across a flat parking lot to get it back into the garage to flush it out 4 times before the thing would go again. -I rescently gave Lucas a second try with their PS additive in my F-250 because they guarantee it will fix any leak or your money back. It didn't even slow the leak, which isn't that bad to begin with, but I had hoped...and I probably won't go after them for my money back; its not worth the $15 I do, however, know many people who rave about that "Techron" fuel additive that Chevron makes, and that "engine restore" that comes in the little silver can. I have tried both, and the only proof I got was a boost of compression on a tired 4.0 with the engine restore...but I think I used the bigger 8 cyl can instead of the 6 cyl because the parts house was out. Just my experiences. James

Ya, the circumstances were unfortunate. Had that all not gone down, the truck would still be in its street clothes. When I rebuilt it from the theft damage, I intentionally left the mounting holes for the body kit in the event I won the lottery and could afford to buy a new kit fron Archer Brothers....it may still happen (not the lottery, lol...I gave up on that one), depending on their asking price; just to have it. The truck hasn't changed other than cosmetically...its not like I cut the thing apart and modified it structurally. All it would take is bolting the kit back on, sticking the dash plaqgue on, throw some stock suspension or even a slight drop like I had before and viola, I would then have an all-wheel-drive high output streetcomanche :eek: Hmm :) Until then, its gonna be lifted! I definately am not going to wheel it hard, I got my dirtbike for that crap...I just want to make it a fun DD, and living in the mountains where we get dumped on with snow, 4wd only makes sense. Think I am going to keep my eye out for a 5-spd tho; the Auto tranny will work for awhile, but that 5-spd is so much more fun. That aside, I got it running and lot driving today!!! 1st attempt I got a "Check Engine" light and it was running like crap, but then I realized I forgot to plug in the throttle position sensor...problem solved. 2nd issue, guages are not responsive. Gonna dive into diaging that one tomorrow, prob just missed a plug or a ground somewhere. Something about the '87 PS pump doesn't want to bolt onto the '94 manifold, so I gotta make the 30 min drive to the donor and steal the PS pump off it. I then just need to wire up the XJ-MJ wiring at the back of the cab for all the rear lights and it should be ready for the road. Anyway, I can't wait for my 1st real test drive. I just wish I had that 8.25 in the rear with the 3:55's and not the d35 with the 3:08's...one step at a time tho. James

Ugh, ya :oops: :roll: If you look closely at the pics, you can see the holes in the bottom of the bedside rockers where the kit was bolted on. I am going to have to dig hard for a pic of the numberplate as I took it off the truck several years ago to have a shop replicate it with the intentions of replacing it because it was scratched. As for the body kit, no. The PO's before I initially acuired it lived in the dry, hot climate of Sacramernto, Ca. They never garaged the truck, never waxed the truck and I doubt if they ever even washed the truck. It was severly weather beaten. The body kit was dry and cracked. I regret not taking pics of it then. I did my best to revive it, and I was able to for one of my builds on the truck...but one day I found myself with no work, no money and my comanche was the only thing I had a title for I could sell to float me by until I could get back on my feet. My roommate at the time purchased it, kinda with the agreement that I would be able to buy it back later. A few months went by, he went bar hopping in the MJ...left the keys in it...and it went missing; I was frantic to get it back at that point. I was providing the cops with pics and all. It was found 3 days later having launched through a fence, down an embankment and lodged into the side of a house. The truck at that time was a total loss. The entire front end was destroyed...frame was bent, passenger windshield pillar crushed, roof dented, undercarriage damaged (from going over boulders) and both sides of the truck sustained minor damage. That finished off the body kit. I tried to save it, but it seemed like a lost cause after that. I made the decision to sell what was left of it on EBAY, rather than just throw it away as I knew I could get replacement pieces through Archer Brothers. You can check out this link http://www.cardomain.com/ride/393950 Believe it or not, that greenish grey truck was the same one you see me building right now on this thread. That was obviously before it got wrecked. James

Well, I'm getting closer I borrowed my buddies front bumper from his cherokee to tow-bar my manche to my shop, where I will finish the project. The motor, trans, transfer case and front axle and front end lift are all in place. The wiring is all done. All the underhood and under dash stuff is mounted and connected. Now, I am just anxiously awaiting my new exhaust header before I can finish assembling the intake assy. UPS tracking is saying Monday. After that, it should be a simple connection for the fuel pump and she should start :clapping: Even better, I dug through my stash of driveshafts and fount the rear driveshaft I removed from a 2wd XJ converted to 4x4, and amazingly it is a perfect fit, trans splines match and all...that seemed too easy :yes: Assuming all goes as planned Monday, the only pending things are to sort out and connect the XJ-MJ wiring at the rear of the cab, finish assembling the interrior, get a spray in bedliner, swap the rear Chrysler 8.25 axle and get some lift leaf packs (not doing the SOA, don't want that much lift). (Until then, I'll be sportin the D-35 3:08 rear and no lift with rwd only :fs1: ). After that, looking into a fresh set of 31x10.5 R15's and a good detail after some paint touch-up, and my baby will finally be done!!! :D She's dirty, inside and out, but I couldn't wait to detail it for the pics. I gotta say, LOTS of time went into this project, but I don't regret one minute of it James