CRF136N

LOL, HEY, I was the guy that wrote that!!! Yep, I am the owner of what was #54 of 100. LONG story behind this truck...now its the one I am converting to 4x4 HO. Like I say, long story. As stated in that quote, all the "streetcomanche" trucks were a dealer promotion item in the state of California. It had NOTHING to do with Jeep Coorperation, rather just a promotion to create a little sport truck with the new 4.0 inline 6. All the trucks were 1987 MJ shortbeds, 4.0 liter, 2wd, 5-spd, Red ext with Black int. They were all otherwise base models. From the info I could gather, the VIN's were not in sequence. They all were given a body kit by Archer Brothers racing and a dash plaque to indicate truck number. Point in case, the body kit was the only thing that made the truck "special" I had contacted Archer Brothers many years ago and they said they still had body kit pieces for that build stashed in their warehouse. I contacted Jeep, and they had NO clues about the street comanche. Its unfortunate that it was never an actual Jeep model, recorded in the VINs because then they would have been worth something, but as it stood they were an aftermarket modded truck re-named and worthless to most. I had been in regular contact with the owner of #24 for awhile, we found another, I think it was #66 and I saw the one in the junkyard. Good luck on your search for one, espeially in good shape, most likely the body kit will have been aged, cracked thrashed and destroyed like mine was. James

NICE; the '86 XLS was my 1st MJ too. Your gonna love it...but...the V-6 2.8 :ack: I made the mistake of dumping money into having mine rebuilt...then I learned about the motor. Bad fuel economy + an aweful carb setup + NO POWER = motor swap! And DON'T even think about bringing it up to elevation in the Sierras, especially in the winter...moving there is what made my final decision after having the carb messed with seemingly endlessly, I gave up the battle and sold the truck. As long as it runs good, might as well keep her going. I'm just saying if/when the time comes, don't dump tons of $$$ into it, there are some great conversions out there with LOTS of info. Anyway, any plans for lift, body, paint, etc? Keep us updated! James

Well, for what its worth to those of you still chasing it, I took the advise of many (thanks to all who advised) and removed my throttle body assy and let almost an entire can of carb/choke cleaner go on it; into all the nookes/crannies, holes, sensors, etc...problem solved. After the cleaning, the truck consistantly idled at 1,200 at that point, reguardless of conditions so I bent that little arm at the throttle cable housing a little to set the idle at about 500...it always sits at 500 now, smoothly too...and its hard to tell just yet, but I think my gas mileage boosted quite a bit (from about 17 average to 20 my last tank, same driving conditions) :eek: ...but I want to run a few more tanks for consistancy to that claim :cheers: Anyway, thanks again!!! James

OK, did my truck just become possesed, or is there something I am not seeing. This truck is by far the smoothest, quietest Jeep I have ever owned; It'll do 90+ down the freeway and it feels like your driving a Cadi. Today though, I was driving it, a 100% stock '88 MJ 4.0, 4x4 5-spd longbed cruise set going 75mph on the freeway when I came on a change of concrete at which point there was a minor bump between the two sections. As soon as I drove over it my manche began to shake so violently intense, it was like I was driving over offset railroad ties, so bad it felt like the truck was going to tear in half and I was going to loose complete control of it. I managed to get off on the shoulder, but the slower it went, the more violent it was, and the brakes seemed worthless as the pedal was shaking too...I had all my weight on the brake pedal and I could hear the tires screeching with the shake. I got out of the truck expecting a wheel to be half hanging off, or a blown tire or something, but everything was normal. All wheels were tight, nothing was caught in the rims or drivetrain, nothing was hanging off or had fallen off the truck, suspension felt tight...I got back in the truck and drove it, once again got it back up to 75mph, floating smooth as can be down the freeway. It then happened a second time a little ways down the road as I was taking an offramp, once again right as it hit a bump in the pavement, this time I was doing about 50mph...also this time I was on the brakes when it started, but the last time I wasn't as it was on cruise control. Not as caught offguard the second time, I let off the brakes for a moment to see if that made a difference, and it didn't. I got to the bottom of the offramp, this time equally as voilent as the last, came to a stop, and the truck made it the rest of the way home 25+ miles no problem. When I got home, I jacked the front end off the ground, wheel bearings felt fine, all suspension is tight, wheels are straight, tires are perfect, u-joints are fine...WTF IS GOING ON!?! It is obviously hitting a bump at high speed that triggers it. It has never done this before today; and I am not exaturating (spellcheck) when I say it is a VIOLENTLY INTENSE shake. Any ideas would be much appreciated as I am totally stumped. :hmm: James

So are those airbags going to be operational too? ...Just curious :chillin: Seriously though, your interrior is AWESOME!!! :bowdown: What I wouldn't give for that setup in my MJ; although I like the all grey better, I even thought the 2-tone was rather cool. Keep it up, I can't wait to see whats next! Oh ya, I am curious to see how the computer functions will work on the overhead consol, such a avg/current MPG, etc...I know your a ways from that yet though. Keep those pics coming in the meantime. James

DUDE, why did you have to bring this one up?..Thats such a cool idea, now I am gonna have to do it even though I don't have the time. I was all excited to get my truck done and on the road again, but YOU just delayed that with yet another project...thanks! :cheers: Its gonna be RAD!!! I'll make it work one way or another; I'll keep you all posted when I get to that point. James

WOW :eek: I must say you have one hell of a project on your hands! I never realized just how bad these MJ's can be effected with rust until I got on this website; Guess I should concider myself as very lucky to be on the west coast with the addiction, because as long as their inland from the coast a bit, they are usually 100% rust free; just very neglected. I tip my hat and admire with the greatest respect your willingness and obvious desire to save this MJ; Best of luck. James

OK, so after talking to Pete about picture posting (I am used to the old YAHOO site, so I am still trying to figure out this method), I figure I will give it a try, especially after Pete engouraged me to start a thread on the project... The Comanche was a clean (not a speck of rust, but definately aged) 1987, 4.0, 2wd, 5-spd base model with 3.08 gears; got good gas mileage and was fun to drive, but just not enough...LONG story behind this truck, for another day...sold the truck (a few times) but just bought it back x-mas day '08 for $200 bux with a bad tranny, and within 3 days of getting it back I stole the motor out for another project. It needed help at that point, so I began to explore my options for a swap to something fun...the HO conversion seemed to be the best. The donor presented itself on Craigslist shortly thereafter; an almost mint 1994 Jeep Cherokee Country 4x4, loaded and its got the 4.0 HO and 3:55 gears...with a 3.5 or 4 inch lift and some really nice American Racing rims :clapping: Although it was an automatic, and I would have preferred a manual, for $600 it was a steal!!! Original owners who took very good care of it; once again not a speck of rust or corrosion, no leaks either, 160k on the clock; VERY strong runner. It had gotten T-boned on the passengers side, and rolled onto the drivers side. Although mangled, I still drove it for 5 months before I decided it was time for the swap. :D Its turned out to be a hell of a project...literally stripped both jeeps to the bare frame, and am rebuilding the MJ, but its giving me the opportunnity to detail and paint everything for a clean result, and I can install all the nice accessories from the XJ that the MJ didn't have before (a/c, cruise control, all power stuff, that cool little overhead consol with the temp/compass, etc) So here goes the pic attempt; lets see if I get it... As they sit, the dark one on the left is the donor And check out thesep; no corrosion on the trans/transfer case, they still need a little cleaning; very little surface rust on the block...a little cleaning, sanding and painting and it'll be like new :thumbsup: OK, I'll leave it at that to see if these go through or not. Lemme know what you think! James

I suppose I should say, if your not into a nice throaty sound out of your jeep, the flowmaster 50 series is also a good choice, a little more mellow toned

As a matter of fact, I just did the exhaust manifold replacement on my '88 4.0 today. I wouldn't be suprised if thats your problem as EVERY 4.0 jeep I have owned I have had to replace it on, but on the other hand 115k miles seems a little low for it to crack just yet; You can usually look down in the cracks between the intake stuff with a flashlight, and see right at the very back where the "y" split is; thats where they always crack. I say to inspect first because its a VERY labor intensive job...and it just sucks, especially if you've never done one before; one of my most hated repairs on these Jeeps...and expect to pay a mint to have a shop do for for you, that said, I say DO IT YOURSELF if it needs it...it requires relatively basic hand tools and like I say, its just time consuming and plan for some busted knuckles and if you have big hands, have someone with small hands handy as otherwise you will need to bend your body in ways it wasn't meant to go. If you choose this route, PM me and I will gladly walk you through it step-by-step and all the tools you will need. I have found those cheap ebay replacements to be fine. As for a muffler; Flowmaster 40 series!!! :banana: Sure, you can go down to your local auto supply and get some OEM replacement for $60 bux that may last you a couple years before a baffle lets loose and starts rattling, but those flowmaster 40's are quality and make these 4.0 Jeeps sound BITCHIN :thumbsup: I got mine through Summit Racing for like $100 bux and just clamped it on. Don't remember if its a 2.25 or 2.5 in pipe, or I may be totally wrong with all my projects I got going on right now...someone on here should know. Anyway, good luck! James

Well, crap...just my luck :grrrr: Guess I can expect to spend some more quality time at my local pick-and-pulls this weekend in search of a BA 10/5 front driveshaft. LOL, was hoping to avoid going there...with all these mj/xj projects I got going on, they know me by name now :shake: They must think I am nuts...which I guess I wouldn't argue; Each one of these projects I take on I swear is my last, as the aggrevation is almost not worth it...but then I always manage to find that craigslist score "in need of TLC" that I just can't turn down at its price. Oh well; on the bright side I manage to make a little cash off each one when I sell them. Anyway, thanks for the info :thumbsup:

OK, so I have either completely lost my mind, something has shifted in the front of my MJ, or there are two different front driveshafts...I have an '88 MJ 4.0 4x4 5-spd; I stole the front driveshaft out this last winter as I desparately needed it for my '88 XJ 4.0 auto that I never put the front shaft into after a 4x4 conversion ('88 donor) because I misplaced the u-bolt straps during the conversion...it was in the middle of the night in a blowing snowstorm, couldn't see much, but I do remember the driveshaft both came out of my MJ fine, and went into my XJ fine. I later sold the XJ. The time has come; I have to attend something important tomorrow that the directions say "4wd required to get to the site"; that said, guessing the dd Subaru wouldn't be the best choice. I grabbed the front driveshaft out of my current project ('94 XJ auto donor), and its too long :hmm: I then just kept the strap kit, and went for the '88 XJ's original front driveshaft at my storage...once again, about 1/2 inch too long :wall: Fortunately, I found out I can ride my dirtbike out there to make up for not having my mj :thumbsup: but WTF!?! Is there two different front driveshaft lengths between the auto/man, or different transfer cases, or is something in the front of my MJ tweaked?

You live in Reno? Me too. If the steep grade your talking about is Mt. Rose or 267, my 4.0 inline 6 will barely pull itself up either of those passes unloaded; put my 300lb dirtbike in the back and its really pissed. But then again I have the 3:08 gearing; not very ideal for that. Just my two cents. James

HO motor is going in TOMORROW, and I just realized the difference in the fuel lines as the renix has the front to rear setup, and the HO fuel rail has both supply/return lines next to each other in the front. the XJ fuel lines have a quick dissconnect at the frame, but my MJ doesn't. Once again, working with an '87 MJ shortbed and a '94 XJ donor. Does the '91-'92 MJ HO have the same fuel rail setup as the '94 XJ, so maybe I could get fuel lines for a 91-92, or has anyone else whos done the conversion encountred this and found a solution? Also, still awiting any info on the fuel pump; aside from the funky sender reading to the gauge, will the current renix pump run the HO motor ok, or do I need to pull it and change the pump? Also, anyone found a remedy for the sender reading? PLEASE, any info would be GREAT as I am hoping to have this thing running this weekend... Thanks! James

ok, thanks...I'll try this IAC cleaning 1st, then go from there...worst case I think I have some fuel injectors lying around from my other MJ... James

I have an '88 MJ with the 4.0...Sometimes on startup it revvs real high, like usually 2500-3000rpms; sometimes for just a few seconds and then drops to normal idle, sometimes for a long time. Blipping the throttle or bogging it with the clutch does not seem to effect it; sometimes turning it off and re-starting it does it. I noticed it was particularly bad rescently when we moved, just two blocks down the road. Almost every time it was started it did it, where as it is usually its every few times, so maybe the short drives vs. regular driving has an effect? Any ideas on what this may be? :???: Thanks! James

Furthermore, the steering columb I had gotten out of a '90 or '91 xj years ago as it was a tilt columb to replace my non-adjustable one; I did not replace it with this swap as my interior is black, and the current columb is black; the '94 donor columb is tan...so I am leaving the black one. Coming down the columb is a cable that goes to the gearshift selector; some sort of ignition/shift interlock (the black columb was from an auto jeep, so it had the cable already). After putting everything together, I realized the cable from the '94 xj donor has a little canister about 1/3 way down that a single wire connects to, then branches off to something else...the black columb used right now does not have this canister, so I have nothing to connect the wire to...what is this wire, what does it do, and is it necessary? If I remember correctly, it is white with a red stripe. Thanks! James

I am currently 1/2 done with a HO swap from a '94 xj country into my '87 mj shortbed. Interior dash wiring is done, still gotta integrate xj wiring with mj wiring for the harness that goes to the rear...that shouldn't be too big of a deal, and I am going to be re-assembling engine bay this week with HO motor...hopefully on the road with it shortly thereafter (gotta get the driveshaft shortened first, going from 2wd to 4x4) Its turned out to be a hell of a project, but well worth it...I am actually having fun with it, and since I practically stripped my MJ to a shell, and part by part swapping from the xj, its relatively easy; the only real "mod" I have had to do is cut a hole in the firewall for the auto tranny shift cable (truck was a 5-spd)... and I am going to get even more than I originally planned such as a/c, power mirrors and cruise control :thumbsup: The simple pleasures in life. Furthermore, its giving me the opportunity to fully paint and detail EVERYTHING, and having a near MINT donor vehicle makes it that much easier...it gonna be sweet, I can't wait!!! THAT SAID, I have read past posts about possible fuel pump sender issues. Something about the sender from the HO won't fit, and the renix sender will cause fuel gauge issues...but have not heard of a remedy for this. Is there anything that can be done!?! First and foremost, am I correct in my understanding that the current renix fuel pump as is, undisturbed, WILL make the motor run? I am trying my best to make this as clean of a swap as possible; so am I going to be stuck with a weird fuel gauge, or through some electrical modification is it possible to make it work...how about this optional fuel tank some of you speak of?...and no, I don't want the fuel tank in the bed...that's where my dirtbike goes 8) Anyway, any info would be great...thanks, and sorry for opening another thread on the HO swap as I am sure this probably gets repetitive... James