benjy_26

Hello everyone. Recently, the slave cylinder in my MJ decided to finally give up the ghost. I will be replacing it with another internal unit, mostly because I'm lazy, and I figure that if the original made it with minimal maintenance from the OP for nary 200,000 miles, I can get at least 50,000 out of a replacement. This brings me to the subject at hand. What kind of clutch discs are you running? What do you like/dislike about them? At this point, I can get either a stock replacement from the local parts store, or a high zoot, six puck, ceramic unit which looks killer, appeals to my inner boy-racer, and is still semi-reasonably priced. Keep in mind, this is to be used between a 2.5L four banger and an AX5. I MAY install an inertia ring at this time as well.

Dig the ride. Kudos on keeping it a 4 banger! I'll be watching intently.

What happens when you run a a jumper from the ground on the left brake light to the right brake light?

I don't have sway bars installed on any of my Jeeps or 4x4's. Just drive it like a truck and not like a Ferrari and you should be ok with driving with the sway bar disconnected till you either replace the links, or get used to driving without a bar.

That's what I was thinking too..,

Hello all. I've been working on a buddy's 94 ZJ and I've gotten myself into somewhat of a pickle. Initially, this vehicle would not rev past 4000rpm, developing a severe miss at this engine speed. It had a CEL, we ran the key test and fixed a few things, but a MAP sensor fault code was still present. I back probed the sensor and it showed the proper 5.0v. This truck has no cat, btw. We changed the fuel filter (ut was time to do so), and while attempting to check the CPS, the leads on it fell apart. We installed a new CPS.... and it won't start. The CPS shows open/infinite when probing the B and C terminal, but there's no spark coming out of the coil. I re-did the grounds, replaced the coil, pick up coil, cap and rotor (more maintenance), and the plugs. The dizzy was indexed a bit off, so I took care of that as well. No spark. I then swapped the horn relay with the ASD relay. The horn honks with either relay, but I still get no spark. My next step is to swap in a spare ECM I have lying about. Do you guys have any recommendations?

How do the HC springs ride? Have you loaded them up? Also, did you have to do much trimming to get 32's on your comanche? I'm at 3" with 31's and I rub when I crank the wheel while going backwards.

I run a polymer unit from Tractor Supply. It was under a hundred box, fits a ton of stuff, and has enough room for stuff to fit on either side of it.

So.... I FINALLY threw in a 3/4 cluster to get rid of the idiot cluster. Everything was running well.... then the slave cylinder let go. The INTERNAL slave cylinder. I'm debating whether to throw in an ax5/np231 in the least invasive way I can, convert to external slave and go with an ax5, or go whole hov and throw in an ax15. What say ye?

really? I got xj leafs no issue in mine. Pics? The XJ leaves are WAY shorter than MJ leaf packs

Cool. Thanks for the tip!

Nice! We're a wide place in the road, but there's good 'wheeling out here... if you like to do it in the desert!

I use Mystik synthetic grease for pretty much everything. Is this one good for the follower?

Cool deal! Thanks for the info Yep. The springs are the same on LWB and SWB models.

Cool deal. I may just have to spring for one.

Thanks,Where in Texas? I'm by Canyon Lake. I'm in El Paao. Far west, on the boundry line with Old AND New Mexico!

As far as the rotors, I don't care for them being slotted because it's impossible to get em turned by just anyone.

beat up? I thought they were softer,which color are you talking about? I was looking at the green ones. I run yellows on my ZJ along with Bosch QuietCast rotors and braided stainless lines. I did notice more scuffing of the rotors than when I had Performance Friction's ceramo-metallic pads in the Heep. Maybe I just drove it more aggressively since I had "racing" pads. lol

They're good, but they will beat up your rotors. Personally, I don't much likr slotted rotors. That's just me, though.

It IS a pipe bender.... I may have to bite the bullet and get a tube bender. Anyone know of a decent, reasonable priced *coughcheapcough* tube bender. I don't mind it being manual.

Another route to try with the kink-o-matic is THIS. I've played around with a couple of these style benders and I've have good results in the past when adding an upper shoe to keep the material from lifting. I think with some practice with the bender one could make some good, repeatable bends. Still, I think modifying one of these benders is like putting lipstick on a pig, but hey... some pigs make good bacon too! Nice! Thanks for the tip. I'll try it when I bend again. Now, another question: What size tube do yo guys recommend for the primary parts of a prerunner-ish winch bumper? I was thinking 1.75".

I'll probably end up using DOM and packing it with wet sand when I bend it. We'll see how it goes. ;)

Thanks for the info, gents! I have a Harbor Freight Kink-o-matic and a few dies. It bends decently, but it's not the best.

I can afford DOM... it's the bender that kills me. Is HREW easier to bend than DOM?

Freshen the grounds... or just run an additional ground to the bundle on the header panel straight fron the battery.