jpnjim

Report also said 10"x2.5" brakes, those were the D44 brakes, (non-C clip) D35's got 10"x1.75". Not a criticism, just pointing out that the reports can be buggy. :dunno:

Bedtime now, but I scanned some pics from the book that tells you what sensors the ECU is looking for in which mode of operation, and what it does with them. The form is pretty simplistic, but it does explain what's happening. I'll try to post more here tomorrow.

Good Luck! Being sick sucks, hope you get home soon. :cheers:

I'll try to pull out the 4.0L (Renix) FI manual later tonight (have to go out to do a side job right now :ack: ), I'll also try to read some of your other threads, and see what else I missed. So you have: a Renix 4.0L engine, with a Renix flywheel, Renix distributor (that has not been pulled out), all renix sensors (some replaced/tested/etc), a replacement renix harness, and a tested working Renix ECU. I also think I read you replaced the steering column. That's alot of connections to make sure are still good, but since you're not getting both the fuel injectors, and the ignition, without looking at the book, I'd lean towards it being a wiring issue. If you had not replaced the harness (or if you had not tested the ECU), I'd lean towards it being either the ECU, or something that needs to function before either ignition, or injection would be initiated (CPS {that you tested, and replaced a couple times}, or the sync sensor in the distributor {that you tested}). Specifically, what did you change/replace since the last time it ran? > Engine Harness > CPU harness > Interior Harness Then you swapped the CPS (how did you melt that with the header?, do you mean you melted the harness, or the sensor itself?), and tested: the Ign coil Starter Solenoid Sync Signal Fuel Pump O2 (should start w/o this anyway) ECU & Engine harness also tested. This is starting to push me towards the steering column & interior harness. I'll pull out the book, and see what that says.

I went for a new Ebay tank when I got this MJ.

Let's take a poll: Who still has any bump stops left? All my good ones are in a box in the basement. :D Even one of the 1998 XJ's rusted off after 3, or 4 years.

http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/ctd/1486394683.html 2001 Jeep Cherokee Lerado, 4x4, 6 cyl, Just 94K, & Leather & roof - $7795 (Plymouth) Um, so book is $6.5k, other dealers will charge you $7k, but save by spending $7.5-8k here. :rotfl2:

1) Sparkling white snow is nice. 2) Sparkling white snow X feet at a time is awesome. 3) Brown & black snow after the sparkling white snow has been on the ground (& frozen) for a few weeks, and won't go away kinda ruins the excitement of #1 & #2. Along the same lines: 1) Shoveling big fuffy flakes is a nice light workout, especially when your not in a hurry ton go anywhere. 2) Shoveling heavy wet snow @ 5:30am, so you can be at work on time is less fun. 2a) Shoveling 2 feet of wet slush that the plow truck dumps in your driveway just as you finish is even less fun. :fs1: 3) Shoveling at the beginning of winter is much better than it is after 3 months of heavy snow once or twice every single week.

Woooooooohhhhhoh, hold on........ stop the presses.... are YOU telling ME that it SNOWED in CANADA!!!!!!!!!111111one :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :wavey: :rotf: ;) it finally snowed here too (Boston). :thumbsup:

Wow. That is a lot of work for just 7.5:1 :yes: And using 3 boxes with the same exact low range really limits your selection. Triple 1.96 cases (4 options): 1.96 x 1.96 x 1.96 = 7.53 1.96 x 1.96 = 3.84 1.96 = 1.96 1:1 There are cheaper options that would give you deeper overall gears, and as many, or more gear choices, but most aren't even close in strength to this combo.

Yeah, that was the mock up stage, the plan was to run a STaK replace-a-case. Stronger than the stock 300 case, and has the output on the correct side without flipping it. It's just the old problem of once you do the math: case + $$ for the HD ft output + 4:1, you're knocking on the door of an Atlas. Then AA offered a 5:1 Atlas w/HD ft output, + lube & tube kit for $1995 this time last year, so I readjusted 'the plan'. :D

Aaron, Wow, I saw you had posted this in a couple places, I figured it would be solved before I could finish typing up a long winded run-on response, so I didn't jump in. ;) I thought the other post said it was starting, then shutting off (tho I didn't read the thread, just the scroll over text). Sounds to me after reading this thread: you get in the Jeep, turn the key & it does not pressurize the rail, but it does crank the starter? What if you just turn the key into the 'run' position, but not all the way to the start position? Going to 'Start' & pressurizing the rail is pretty much step one of starting, So that's the best place to start tracing out the problem. So: Key in RUN position (not start): Do you hear the fuel pump click, and begin to pump up? yes ----> check pressure at the rail no -----> verify connections at fuel pump relay Since it's a Comanche verify the Black in the harness to the fuelpump/tailights is grounded. Lots of times you lose this ground connection, and the tailights being plugged in are the only thing supplying the ground to the harness & fuel pump (which is why you get the dreaded "MJ no start" when you remove the bed, or unplug the tailights.) The fuel pump will not run for long in the 'run' position like this, it's just a quick 'whirrrrrlllllll', then it shuts off (I'm thinking the ECU shuts it down when it doesn't sense the engine spinning (running)). In the 'run' position, the fuel pump is also dependent upon the ballast resistor, so that's another link in the chain to trace out if it's the fuel pump is not running in this mode. The other mode that the fuel pump runs in is the 'Start' mode. I had the my fuel pump stop working in the 'Run' mode at one point (in an MJ), but it would still work in 'Start' mode, so I drove home with the key turned into the 'Start' position. Easy to do, you just have to disconnect the starter control wire (to the starter mounted relay) after it starts, while someone else keeps the key forward (in 'Start'). <-- so it starts, but then the starter doesn't keep spinning the whole way home. So, the next step after testing your fuel pump in the 'Run' mode could be to test in the 'Start' mode. You could disconnect your starter (like above) to test it (so you can hear the fuel pump), or just have a second person listen for at the tank the fuel pump while you crank the engine. Or, you could just skip to the third way to test the fuel pump: The last ditch method to test the fuel pump is to just apply 12v (+) directly to the ballast resistor. It doesn't matter what side of the resistor you connect the 12v + jumper wire, but if the ballast resistor is bad, the fuel pump would only spin when connected to the 'load' (fuel pump) side. ('line' side wouldn't fire the fuel pump if the resistor is bad = this method can also be used as a way to test the ballast resistor). If connecting 12v (+) to either side of the ballast resistor gets the fuel pump to spin (and it was not spinning for test #1, or test #2 above) atleast you know the circuit beyond the ballast resistor is intact & working You can backtrack, and keep your testing to the ECU, and underhood/under dash connections. If connecting 12v (+) to the BR does not get the fuel pump spinning (and keep spinning for as long as you apply 12v + there), either: 1) that black wire to the fuel pump is not connected to ground 2) that black ground wire is not completing it's path from ground, to the fuel pump 3) the (I forget what color) + wire from the ballast resistor is not completing it's path to the fuel pump 4) or the fuel pump is bad. If this gets the fuel pump fired up, you should test the fuel pressure at the rail. BE CAREFUL HERE. Connecting that jumper to the ballast resistor makes a SPARK (usually a nice fat spark), and testing the fuel pressure at the rail usually = GAS. Spark + Gas isa fast way to wreck your Jeep/Garage/House (= bad :D ) Atleast keep a fire extinguisher around, another set of eyes/hands is even more helpful. Hopefully after the above, either your fuel pump is working, or you've narrowed it down a little. I haven't had as much luck tracing down ignition issues in these (haven't really had any to trace), but I have the factory Renix fuel injection manual that I could go through to try to help figure this out beyond this. Post up what you find, and we'll keep going. Since you replaced the harnesses in this Jeep, and seem to have double checked most of the sensors & the ECU already, I'm leaning towards the problem being either a wiring connection, or the 'new' harness is damaged in some way.

For bumper mounts, I ran maybe 14" long brackets along the frame, out of 4" channel (I cut the webs out for tire clearance towards the back.) The bumper itself was also 4" channel, so I burned in a triangular hunk of 1/2" plate between the webs of the brackets, and the webs of the bumper face to reinforce the bumper ends. The 1/2" plate was then well placed to drill & tap for (downfacing) towhooks. The long bumper mounts + sheetmetal 'frame' didn't stand a chance against the 1/2 plate when the bumper ends folded in. :( This was the replacement bumper (similar style): notice I did not reinforce the bumper ends, & moved the tow hooks to the 4" channel/bumper brackets. (FWIW: Tow strap would go straight through the D-ring, and grab the hook, I really liked this setup, since the D-ring captured the strap, and it would not fall off of the down facing hook.)

Flipped 300/flipped 231 doubler: 231/300 doubler vs Atlas: Atlas size compared to D300:

I overbuilt a ft bumper years ago, connected the outer 'wings' (bumper section beyond the frame rail width) to the bumper mounts with 1/2" plate, mounted flat, parallel with the ground. When I had strong guardrail hit (don't ask :D ), the 'wing' still folded in, but instead of deforming the mount to absorb the hit, the 1/2" plate stayed intact (duh :) ), and forced my 'framerail' into the side of the engine. (passengers side, 'frame' rail contacted the alternator, and broke it right off the side of the engine.) On my next bumper, I left the 'wings' to be sacrificial steel in the event of a hard side hit. As far as that Warrior stuff, there was a SMOKING sale on it last week (Black Friday weekend). I don't remember what the front went for, but the basic rear was ~ $230.

On some of the other longarm threads out there, people have posted mixed reviews on this. Standard advice if you want just 1/2 the kit (like all us MJ folks :D ) is to call, and ask. If they say no, wait a week, then call back & ask. Sounds crazy, but a few have reported that, depending who you get on the phone, you actually can get 1/2 a kit. YMMV.

Bad News. :( Hopefully Eric Buell will come out of this, and build motorcycles again. The guy is a great designer/forward thinker. Doing so well using an engine designed to lug around heavy cruising machines, with weight being a distant afterthought is a credit to his abilities. It would be like building a race car around our 4.0L's. Just about every sport bike today has the muffler center mounted below the frame now (for weight/mass centralization & ground clearance), when Buell was the first to do that 10? 12? years ago, people laughed at the concept. I was happy that they (HD) was finally loosening up the reins, and allowing him to go elsewhere for an engine ($$ to design his own would've been even better), too bad it ended so soon. I'm a first generation GSXR guy at heart (air/oil cooled 750's & 1100's ), but I always liked the compact design of Buells, amazing that you could build something with that short of a wheelbase, and that steep of rake/trail numbers, and have the thing go down the road so well (bikes get death wobble too, and it's scarier than any Jeep's :yes: ). :USAflag: :USAflag: :USAflag:

What I know about Willy's pickups: 1) I want one. :D 2) Pack light, because the cab's make MJ's seem roomy. 3) FSJ frames, AMC/Jeep drivetrain slid back about 4" & a CJ radiator dropped in the Willy's grille is a well traveled path in these, and that's perfectly fine with me. 4) This last one might be just my own taste, but I have yet to see one of these with full width axles, and wide tires that looked 'right'. Tall skinny tires on Waggy width axles seems to strike the best balance for me.

Doh! That's one of the reasons I thought of doing this thread. :doh: Thanks. :cheers:

Who is Jason & how much is the complete T&T LA kit? Jason is the owner of Jeepinoutfitters.com, the link in my post directly under "T&T Customs" edit: 5.5" complete kit is $2,200: http://jeepinoutfitters.com/scripts/pro ... roduct=681 7.5" complete kit is $2,300: http://jeepinoutfitters.com/scripts/pro ... roduct=682 but those are for XJ kits (different rear springs) It looks like T&T is having a sale this weekend, their list prices shown are slightly higher than that one from Jeepinoutfitters.com

'True' 3 link & Semi-radius arm 3-link Rock Krawler http://www.discountjeepparts.com/produc ... s_id/27372 3 link setup eliminates the binding created by running a true 4 link setup. I've never run this setup, and have my reservations about running just a single UCA. Plenty of people have successfully run 3 links on XJ's, and this is the most commonly run off the shelf setup. Like all RK stuff, it uses solid links (instead of tubing). $750 at the first place I found. I also missed Poly's 3-link :doh: Poly Performance weld together 3-link http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Jee ... 16607.html This really is a kit. :D You weld together your own links, and build/bend your own track bar (it includes heims/brackets & the tubing for the track bar, unlike the other kits, so figure that in the total $$) You can also order longer links (base kit = 36"), have the arms heat treated, or get rear spring brackets with this kit for more $$. PP makes nice stuff, so quality shouldn't be a question, it uses .25" wall lowers, and (real) Johnny Joints like their 4 link kit. $1200 directly from Poly Performance IronRock Offroad http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant ... y_Code=PFX Another kit I know very little about, here's a 13 page thread on NAXJA if you want to read the whole thing: http://www.naxja.net/forum/showthread.php?t=985234 It's a single radius arm (with flex joints) on the drivers side to set pinion angle, and a single LCA, without the upper to eliminate binding on the passengers side (also with flex joints). I like it because it has the benefit of pinion angle change with droop (also changes caster tho) like a typical Radius arm, without the binding associated with it (Radius arms bind more than true 4 links), but (as the above RK 3-link) you are relying on a single UCA mount to keep your ft axle where it belongs. It also has a (removable) X-member that seems to hang down a little more than some others, but it could just be the angle of this pic: The Caster-adjusting-do-hickey is unique to this kit too: It's $599 from the manufacturer (+$100 if you want adjustable arms) General info on all Keep in mind with all the longarm setups, most of these brackets & braces were designed around XJ frame rails, so our extra X-member mounts will most likely be in the way (thanks 89eliminator!) 89eliminator confirmed that the Full Traction 4 link frame mount needs to be modified to fit an MJ. :cheers: OK, what did I miss, any other longarm options? Cheaper prices than I listed? Important points I skipped over? I thought it would be nice to have this all in one post, feel free to add more facts & info, support, or debunk anything I typed, give it the or :roll: :waving:

True 4 link BDS http://bds-suspension.com/products/acc_longarm.php I had a tough time finding a price for just the upgrade kit, list price is $1,041.88 with flex bushings, or $1,013.24 with poly bushings Out of everything I've posted so far, I'd take this kit, and cut out the middle (make it bolt in) for tranny access, and be a happy man. :chillin: Here's one I missed, thanks SuperWade2: Poly Performance The other 'new guys' to XJ long arm kits (available 12/31/09) http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Jee ... 16607.html Kit looks top shelf, if a little expensive. True 4 link, .25" wall DOM arms, 'real' Johnny Joints, and all the parts are available separately (brackets $300 lowers $460, uppers $360). No X-member included, but individual/ beefy link brackets allow you to do your own thing, and have the tranny/t-case removable. $1128 from Poly Performance Full Traction I'm still looking for 'just' the upgrade kit on this (less springs/track bar, etc). Skyjacker Rock Ready More mid-arms than actual long arms, not a bad design, but the gigantic heims tend to wear out. I'm also looking for this kit in it's 'upgrade' form (less springs/track bar/etc/etc). I know it can be ordered as just the cradle & arms, because they offered it to the Jeep Speed guys in this form. Rock krawler triple threat. http://www.xtremeterrain.com/triplethre ... awler.aspx I'll admit, I know very little about the new RK stuff, I knew, and understood their old old 3-link version, but didn't even know they had come out with a 4 link till I went looking for their 3 link. :dunce: Basic kit, no X-member, solid core arms. First place I found had it for $999 edit, Mesa says $999 is list price, they offer it for $929.95: http://www.mesa4x4.com/dynamic/part_det ... K-XJTTLAUG Teraflex http://shoplive.rompalicious.com/terafl ... googlebase $544.95 at the first place I found. Only reason I'm including this is it is a longarm kit, and it is a true 4 link (since it retains the stock length UCA's), but super long lowers with stockish uppers isn't something I'd ever want to run (apologies to anyone with this kit. :D )

There's a new cheap option in town (Rough Country), plus plenty of other options that have cropped up over the years = good time for an all inclusive thread on them. :chillin: Radius Arms The new guys, Rough Country: http://store.4wheelingplus.com/proddeta ... d=PERF689U Pretty complete looking radius style, uses 4 "X-Flex Joints designed by Rough Country" (looks similar to the other guys, probably just as good, but I'd rather see a proven joint). X-member looks like it pretty much hangs as low as the other guys, but as a plus, it has a T-case skid that seems to be removable. A 3-piece X-member would be better (to allow the tranny to be dropped), but it's really hard to complain at this price ($599 at the first place I found). Rusty's http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchant.m ... ode=rustys The old 'inexpensive' option. I'm not a huge Rusty's fan, but it comes in straight arms, or bent for clearance (similar to T&T's) for $790 (first price I found, at Rusty's site) Rubicon Express http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-lift- ... arm-xj.htm The Standard (IMO), proven arms, proven joints, elaborate X-member & mounting system, tranny section removable without removing suspension mounts. Available everywhere, ~$1050 seems to be the common price. T&T Customs http://jeepinoutfitters.com/scripts/pro ... roduct=705 I won't lie, this is one of my favorite kits, The biggest negative is you have to drop the suspension mounts to pull the tranny. I had thought the T-case skid was also integrated,but it looks like it is removable: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/xj-l ... on-904694/ Jason has this at $764.96 this weekend, that seems to be a very good price. Claytons http://claytonoffroad.com/product_info. ... cts_id=110 The 'other' industry standard. Arms are considered by many the strongest available, they use 'Johnny Joint' brand joints, have (IMHO) one of the best attaching methods (weld the X-member ends on, center section unbolts for tranny service). The mounting itself is kind simplistic compared to the others tho (no frame inserts, or backing plates), and it would be tough if you wanted to move the X-member for a different tranny later on. Price is $854.10 directly from Claytons (there is a sale this weekend), might be cheaper through a dealer, but this is the first price I found. OK, there you have the Radius Arm Style kits I'm aware of, I'll post the (true) 4 links, 3 links, and 3 link semi-radius setups next. Feel free to post better prices on these if you have them, or to add anothe Radius style I might have missed. Also, if this was a heads up competition between these 5, I think I'd be leaning towards the new guys, hard to knock the $600 price (I bet you could shop around & do better too).

For the front: You can use all factory parts to convert from 8 lug to a 5, or 6 lug ft. Swapping the 5, or 6 lug ends on an 8 lug axle has the side effect of reducing the overall width of the axle too. For the rear: If you want to keep it full floating, you'd have to machine the ends to run 5, or 6 lug. This D60 has 30spline axles, so if you want run 35sp with the FF ends you usually have to machine out the spindles as well. The other way is to cut the full floating ends off, weld on (9" Ford) semifloating axle ends, then swap in custom length 35, or 40 spline SF shafts, in any bolt pattern they want. I run a SF D60, and like it, but others prefer not to lose the FFer's weight carrying ability. What's wrong with just running 8 lug?

um..., ok Forget the Jeep, I want the time machine the guy used to get a 78' truck into a Rhino dealer while it was still brand new. :nuts: Exaggerations like this in ads make me wonder what else was exaggerated. :ack: Truck does look awesome tho. :yes: