jpnjim

$825 for a D30 TT & a 8.25 lunchbox is a lot of $$. Since you want an LSD ft, You could find & rebuild a D30 Powerlock for cheaper. 8.25 drop ins are expensive, but $425? Since you're regearing, why not just go full rear Detroit at that point. What about gears for the 60/60? (didn't see them mentioned above). 4.56-4.88's+ for 37's? Also, of the Dodge/Ford/Chevy 60 ft's, Dodges are considered the least desirable (and cheapest, especially on the East coast) Don't pay west coast D60 prices, east coast = 1ton plow trucks = rotted out trucks = cheap 60's. You didn't mention what long arms your considering, so $1900 for 60/60/300/long arm could be a great price, or ? depending on details. Also does the $1900 include steering linkage for the 60? Keep in mind, if you ever end up using that ft 60 to its potential, the rear 60 (guessing ff 30spline shafts) is going to be your new weak link. That's why most people going with 60 fts end up going 70, or 14 out back. I know you say the 60 is overkill for what you do, then why run that heavy ft axle at all? Go 35's, with a beefed HP30, or 44 ft, and have fun. Personally, I don't like full width axles for tight NE trails (trees) anyway, so width alone is a deal breaker for me. My thoughts would be, If your not going to use it to it's potential, why go through the hassle of full width axles, and big lifts. :dunno:

um, cliff notes please :wavey: ?

Marvelous!p Wait till they blame it all on your trip up the pole last week ;) The 'real' troubleshooters are back tomorrow, Hopefully all the calls will cause a change of heart, and move you up in priority. If you know any Verizon guys, They have the ability to move friends & family up on the list. Make friends with a Verizon guy today. :D

LOL, the plot thickens. :rotfl2: Hope this is finally the end. On my end, the phone & innerwebz is still out, and I'm having issues with the ebay radiator I just ordered (mine's leaking, and the ebay seller lists stuff he doesn't have :doh: ).

I'm gonna order this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JEEP-CHE ... 43a824bab3 in three... two.... one, ordered.

Those who have done the radiator upgrade in a 4.0L automatic, were the transmission lines the same from HO to Renix? (I'm hoping they directly swap). I've done the swap on a Manual Trans MJ, but not on an auto. The Grandpa MJ's radiator is leaking at the seams (@ one of the plastic tanks), so I'm thinking of doing the HO radiator upgrade at the same time. Any advice, or favorite radiator? I'm leaning towards an all aluminum 91+ radiator, I'm not currently using a radiator mounted coolant sensor, so I supposed I could survive without one in the new radiator. Thanks. :thumbsup:

Hmmm, I was hoping you had left it loose, would have been a good reason for it to have happened, and an easy fix. The YJ shifter handle is much longer (the part you see above the boot). To keep the shift throws from being too long with such a long handle, the pivot ball is mounted lower in the shifter housing (making the part that actually does the shifting, the tang below the ball, shorter). If someone swapped a long handle/short tang shifter into your MJ, you'd probably know it (shift knob would be almost to the top of the dash), so I'm gonna guess that maybe your shift tang is worn out. I've never heard of that happen in a 10-5, but since it's popping out with the shifter fully bolted in, it's either that, or one of the shift arms inside the trans were somehow worn, or damaged. As for lining up those shift arms inside, I did the trial and error thing you did. It was a long time ago, best I can remember I cycled each one back, and forth through it's travel, and try to stop it in the center. Good luck!

Lol, that sucks. I've been working 7 days a week, so I haven't had as much innerwebz time anyway, but I'll have to order some parts online soon. Too bad the free tether program can't access encrypted/secure pages. (phone is an HTC, and jailbreaking it is out) Guess I'll have to order the parts on this little phone screen.

It shouldn't do that, Were you driving without the shifter bolted in? I got jammed in two gears at one time when wheeling my old BA 10-5, Ended up doing what you did, realigned it with a screwdriver, and bolted the shifter in properly after that. It's possible you are in two gears at once if the shifter wasn't fully bolted down. If you are, the driveshaft will not turn, Jeep won't move at all. The only other thing I know that can screw up a BA 10-5 is if you use the wrong shifter. YJ's used different shifters than XJ/MJ's. If you mix & match shifters, I could see you having issues. If its still stuck in gear after using a screwdriver to realign it, Try taking the strain off the trans & wheels, Either jack up the back wheels up off the ground (Chock the ft whls obviously), Or if its 4wd, put the t-case in neutral. Should be easier to realign then. Good luck.

Well, at least you are at the front of the line now. I'm glad they've decided to go back (for now), hopefully it works out long term.

When I picked up the phone, and heard BUZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ first thing I thought of was how long you've been waiting. :popcorn: Oh well, I spend too much time on the internet anyway. ;)

Welp, looks like I'm in the club with you now Terra, posting this from a PC tethered to my HTC phone. Phone/Interwebz worked fine, before I went to work this morning, just got home, and there's a crazy buzz on the line. I can make calls, but the buzz is loud enough that you can not hear anyone over it. DSL internet uses the same line, and that is not working at all. Oh well, I'm gonna check with the neighbors to see if they're down too.

Lol, some new ones to me here:

It's complicated (I am willing to explain it), but no, the union job I currently have did not come from the hall. I received a call when I was out of work, and was offered a job by the company. THEN I went through the hall to actually TAKE the job (there are rules to solicitation). As far as jobs through the hall, everyone laid off must sign the out of work list. Names are called off the out of work list in the order that they signed. How long you were with a company, or the union does not matter. If you signed today, and I signed yesterday, I will be called first. Nope. None. See, misconceptions are funny, even when I point them out many remain reluctant to believe. I have no reason to lie, I'm not recruiting for the union. We have a referral list. You MUST sign the list when you get laid off (I'll explain this more if you'd like as well). The date you signed is listed right next to your name, and they call names in order. you don't. Seniority does not exist in any form. If the company lays you off, and chooses to hire you back, they have 90 days to do it, or they have to follow more stringent referral/solicitation rules. (I'll explain this if you want too). I don't understand, what was the argument? No seniority, no protection, no residual pay. It's construction, if you don't work, you get laid off. It's hard to counter 50 years of negativity towards 'lazy union members', but that's how it really is. I don't completely understand this either. I worked for all the shops I had jobs with. The union is only the referring agent, and the keeper of benefits/enforcer of the rules. I am a union member, but I actually work for whatever company signs my checks. Again, it seems like splitting hairs to me, but incase there is a specific reason for this question, I'll try to be clear. The hall refers me to the job. I take the job, and become an employee of company XYZ. When XYZ lays me off, I go back to the hall, sign the book, and wait for another company to call the hall looking for men. Alternatively, company XYZ, or ABC, or whomever may call me directly looking for me to work for them. THEN I would still have to go through the hall to take the job, following the rules for solicitation. There are alot of these rules (foreman call by name, 90 day recall, etc etc). The rules make sence, and are there for a reason, I can explain if you want. No time for the rest right now (headed to work again), but most people don't really understand how construction unions work, and lump us in with protected teachers, state/federal workers, manufacturing, etc etc. I know it's tough to swallow, but not all unions are what everyone thinks they are. :D

They have plenty of scabs, they just prioritize where they go. (= not to individual homes & small businesses) One (State) job I just finished has had 3 Verizon replacement workers there since Friday doing a final changeover. (I was gone before they got there, but I've never seen a regular Verizon guy need more than a day, or two for a changeover like this). Honestly, Verizon knew full well they would have a strike on their hands with this list of demands. They also know that their older buildings & equipment need constant, specialized maintenance. Normally they have union maintenance guys with 20+ years of experience maintaining equipment that was old when they got there. Even as an electrician, I would have zero chance of keeping up with the specialized maintenance these older buildings need. If this was going to be Verizon's tactic, they really should have planned better. :doh: BTW Terra, I do feel bad killing your thread with all the Union stuff, If I had Mod Powerz I'd divide it into a 2 separate threads, a technical one, and Union firestorm. Good luck.

It hasn't been updated in a while, but hopefully this thread is a good start: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=19871

I have the bigger short bed tank (not the tiny 13g or so tank). And I average 200-220 miles per tank. :( 89' 4.0L auto 2wd daily driver w/38k miles.

By this definition, I am a member of the second type. I'll let you decide where the extortion & blackmail are in my work history: I have worked 34,000 hours in the past 23 years. (I just got a pension statement). In that time: I have never turned down a job, and never quit a job. When I am out of work, I sign the work list, and wait. The shortest I had to wait has been a day, or two. The longest was 29 months. (18 of that w/o unemployment). More than 1/2 my career has been for small shops (1 to 10 guys). If you ever worked for a small company, I don't have to tell you it doesn't last for long without production, and money coming in. Currently I work for a dozen man shop, including the two, working electrician owners (who chose to open this shop union). We do all types of electrical work, personally, my niche job finds me on union, and nonunion jobs. When I am the only Union Electrician on a job (among 100+ non union guys), it should be obvious that no one is being extorted, or blackmailed to hire me. Before this I worked for a 2 man shop (the owner & I) for 9 years. That guy also opened shop as a union company. There were maybe 8 other Union companies before that, working for them for anywhere from 2 weeks, to 4 years. Since I'm pointing out misconceptions, let me point out that there is ZERO job protections here. Today might be your last day, you'll know when they bring your paycheck. It doesn't matter if you've been in the union for 30 years, or joined yesterday. They can drop you today, tomorrow, or whenever. There is NO SENIORITY, it does not exist. There is also no severance pay, residual pay, legacy costs, grievances for layoffs, complaints, or lawsuits. When they are done with you, their obligation is also done. Also, there is no sick pay, vacation pay, holiday pay, nothing. If you are not physically there on the job working, you do not get paid. I do however have a pension, and an annuity. A portion of my pay goes directly to the union to put into separate accounts for these. The union retains, and invests that money on my behalf, so (hopefully) there will be something left for me to retire with. The union also retains my medical money (as mentioned in the above post), and pays out those claims as well. I prefer a separate entity (the union) from the company I work for handle these three things. Since the company I work is not holding the pension/annuity/healthcare money, I am insulated from any financial problems they may have in the future. Not handling these funds also leaves them with ZERO legacy costs to deal with. Please take the time to read what I wrote in this and the above post. Should I feel that a union as I've described it is a bad thing for me, my employer, or America, and why? These are not my experiences in my union, since people tend to lump all unions together, taking the worst from each, many are getting an undeserved bad rap. I could be laid off today, and the boss could hire his brother in law, cousin, or dog groomer tomorrow if he wanted to. No protection for me. It's more difficult to outsource construction costs (though not impossible), so a Switzerland mailbox isn't going to change anything in construction, and as I said, every single company I have worked for came into the union of their own accord. Feel free to ask questions, or poke holes in my story. I am not hiding anything, or lying about any facts. I work hard, I have no protection, there are no legacy costs to my employer beyond my hourly rate. and I am a Union Member with a Pension, and an Annuity. And that works very well for me. :thumbsup:

I have a different perspective than you do, so I'll share mine with you. There's a bunch I could say to this, but it would be mostly opinion, likely long winded, and probably fall on deaf ears since your old enough to have made up your mind already (as have I). At this, I'd have to ask what your experience with unions has been? (manufacturing, construction, government, etc?) I am in a construction union (Union Electrician), and how our health care for construction unions works is this: Each trade negotiates with the contractors association for an overall hourly pay rate: $xx an hour. Done. Our hourly pay + any pension/annuity/401k/additional benefits/whatever that we desire, is divided out of that $xx an hour pay. The contractors are not on the hook for any longterm healthcare costs, pensions, annuities, 401k's, beyond that hourly negotiated total package. Nothing. They pay us, then send whatever portion of that above negotiated pay to the union that is decided, and they are done. Zero long term costs to the contractor. How could there be/ Company XYZ might have a huge contract, a job with 500 guys working, then next year have just a handful of guys. Leftover costs for last years employees would sink them. Our healthcare cost per hour has gone up with every single contract. At times our pay has actually decreased to cope with this. Furthermore, we choose to be self insured, meaning the hourly portion of our pay that we allot to healthcare does not buy insurance, it directly pays our healthcare bills. I don't see how anyone could have a more responsible healthcare system than that. Time for me to go to work ;) I'll lend my opinion to the rest of this if your interested later. Jimmy. :cheers:

this ^^^^^ :thumbsup: :cheers:

This is my ballpark as well. Though for the $350 I'd be looking for it to have usable drums, and bolt-in-able with a little clean up, and maybe some brake parts (other than the drums). The typical MJ44, needing a full brake rebuild, and those expensive drums is worth about $250 to me. (yeah, I've seen them out there for three times that price too).

:cheers: Politically I'm somewhere between far right, and center right, depending on the subject, but I don't have the hatred of private unions that many to the right do. When two companies come to an agreement (to sell/buy/share information with each other/whatever), what do they do? They sign a contract. I have no problem with workers for that company doing the same. All the job protection stuff is tough for me to swallow, but Verizon has been eliminating that stuff a little bit at a time over the last few contracts. That's their right, that stuff was negotiated in over 50 years (before Verizon bought in, and inherited the union), it's their right to negotiate it out again if they choose. Their tactic was to 'ask' for everything back all at once, which is also their prerogative, but it's almost certain to result in a strike (don't think for a second that Verizon didn't know that). I only chime in to debate that the work stopage is ENTIRELY the fault of 'greedy' unions.

You guys are right, I can't wait till Verizon drops the overpaid union guys, so their service will be cheaper than the completely nonunion Comcast.... Oh, wait, Comcast isn't any cheaper. That's weird. Maybe it's possible to be a profitable, competitive company, AND pay a decent wage. I don't understand negativity towards private company unions. Negativity towards public unions I can understand, we pay for them directly with taxes, and there are very few cost controls. But private unions, why is it better to give $100k bonuses to the white collar executives than it it to give paid healthcare to the blue collar guys? Either way they will not be giving the money back to their subscribers.

It sucks, ' but finding another solution might be in your best interest (FWIW, I despise Comcast, but you have to do what you have to do :yes: ) Here's what the demand list the Union says Verizon asked for: • Wages - both annual and progression increases will be tied to your yearly evaluation. If you receive a "Does Not Meet Position Requirements" you will not receive an increase. • Eliminate Night and Saturday Differential • Eliminate Sunday premium pay. • Eliminate Double Time for hours past 49/week • Eliminate all Overtime Caps. • Eliminate city allowances. • Create new job titles for the consumer and business call centers that would work on a commission-based wage schedule. Pensions • Eliminate pension accruals. For anyone currently on the payroll your pension will be frozen as of December 31, 2011 and after that, there will be no more pension plan. • Eliminate the Pension Cash-Out option. • Modify the 401(k) Plan and the CPS. • Eliminate the Sickness Death Benefit. Benefits • Eliminate the current health care, prescription, dental, and vision plans and offer plans with high deductibles and contributions. • Eliminate accident disability benefits. • Cut in half the sickness disability benefits. • Reduce sick time pay to 5 days per year for those members with 20 or more years; 4 days for those with 15-20 years; 3 days for those with 7-15 years; 2 days for those with 2-7 years; 0 days for those with less than 2 years. • Reduce Paid Holidays to seven. Job Security • Eliminate the Job Security Provisions for all employees. • Eliminate the Movement of Work Protection • Eliminate the 35 mile transfer provision • Eliminate provisions in Force Adjustment Plan • Eliminate New Contracting Initiatives agreement - which would allow them to increase the level of contracting Other • Eliminate the Next Step Program • Eliminate the half day on Christmas Eve • Reduce the notice to the Union on Major technological changes from 6 months to 30 days • Eliminate the Dependent Care Reimbursement Fund according to this article: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/art-brods ... 24898.html and the CCW: http://www.cwa-union.org/news/entry/ver ... kfr24KP-_I I wonder how much negotiation has happened this week.

Don, the fix was in. Verizon went to the negotiating table (the old contract ended Saturday), and basically asked for almost everything back. Healthcare, work protection rules, sick days, 2 holidays, pension & job protection, everything. They even asked to change rules for those already retired. I'm not a Verizon guy, but I saw what the company asked for. There was no way the members would agree to give everything back in one contract like that. Plenty of concessions were asked for, and given back over the last few contracts, but this time was different. IMHO, Verizon went to the table to break the union. If you don't like unions, that's OK, but I don't think anyone can say Verizon went to the table to actually negotiate this contract.