Megadan

I also hate toppers. That's kind of why I brought up the canvas topper idea. Like this one. http://www.softopper.com/jeep-comanche-soft-top-truck-cap-details.aspx You can fold that one forward and they even sell a cover/storage bag to hold it together when it is folded up. Honestly, if I didn't have a long bed I would get one of those. It's a heck of a lot cheaper than another canvas topper that I found, and I don't think that one even folds up.

I didn't get to a response in time lol. I am also interested in those items, but it seems benjy gets first dibs. Ah well, the search continues.

Been checked. They state the same shackles give more lift on a Cherokee than a Comanche. I did my homework on that little tidbit and already knew of the difference.

On further investigation, I noticed that the part number for the coil you linked are the same standard duty springs for the HO Comanches (CC782). However, the Renix/earlier Comanche springs are part number CC784. I also noticed a difference between them. CC784 - 0.20" more free length, and a higher spring rate of 158lb/in (vs. 146 for CC782). I find it odd that a slightly longer spring with more spring rate would ride an inch lower than a slightly shorter softer one.

Excellent info. Thanks for giving me other options. There are no less than 4 V8 ZJ's in the You-pull yard right now (i was just there yesterday) and I have zero shame with using junkyard parts. I will have to check and see.

Not sure how much you are wanting to invest, but have been looking into using my MJ as a part-time camping truck since I love to do my off-path adventures and fishing. If you can make an organizer for all of this gear the sort it out in the bed, you can create a surface to lay over top of it and use to sleep on. All it requires is a topper to really pull off, and while hard toppers are hard to find for an MJ, there are canvas toppers out there that would be just as good as a tent. If you have a 6ft bed you can go with a Softtopper that even collapses to the front of the bed to make access easier. This is kind of a rough idea of what I am talking about. My only change would be to make the sleeping platform into 3 or 4 sections that could be easily moved or removed for access.

Ok, I finally got around to installing my new-new distributor. I still notice a small miss from time to time at idle, but I also haven't quite dialed the idle in yet. It nearly holds steady now and only fluctuates maybe 30rpm once it is up to temp. a little more when cold and the IAC is actually doing more. Anyway, I figured out what the actual problem was. The shaft had so much side to side play that the rotor was contacting the terminals in the cap. I figured this out when I pulled the cap from the old one and found that the entire contact end of the rotor was broken off and laying at the bottom of the dizzy in quite a few pieces. That and I could get it to move side to side by hand. That explains the oil in the distributor and the many other problems I have had. It runs so damn smooth now... I love it.

The YJ and Dakota lines are the ones I am buying. Thanks for the info on the track bar and pitman arm. So much information either way on this with small lifts that it gets somewhat annoying. I will probably stick with the factory front control arms until I feel that they are necessary, although I will probably be putting in new bushings. I saw how dry rotted the rears were when I changed leafs out. For me, I am anal retentive about doing things the right way, but I am also not one to spend money when it is not necessary. That is why I am trying to clear up some of the smog with experienced peoples opinions instead of trusting what a website tells me. BTW, I am also looking for a little "do it" or "Don't" as far as my plan to level the truck out. I have searched every possible way I can to find how much front lift it takes to level a Comanche, and I either suck at searching or there just isn't much out there on it. What is generally the lift amount up front to level?

Yes, I know it's been covered probably a billion times in the history of the Jeep world, but I find searching to leave me with more questions than answers. It's incredibly frustrating to look for hours and find little to nothing. So that being said, I have somewhat worked out my own little plans for a small lift. The truck is mainly an on-road daily driver so comfort and ride are priority for me, which is why I am not looking for Add-A-Leaf setups. I do have use for my truck off the road as well on everything from your basic dirt road, to rougher paths. A little more ground clearance would be helpful, hence the small lift. I also have a set of wheels on the way, and I would like to get rid of these horrible tires that came on the truck with something bigger as well. I know that people can and have fit 31's with no lift, but I am not doing the lift for tire clearance anyway. I am mainly looking for advice and opinions on any suggested changes. First, To level out the truck a bit I have a pair of 1 3/4" front spacers on the way. With the new, non-broken rear leafs on my truck has a serious rake to it even after the leaves have settled over an inch. I know the front springs have sagged a bit, but I plan on replacing those eventually. Even with the spacers I know it won't be level, but it will be closer. My plan with the front was to use the OME "2"" front coils which are rated as 1 3/4" lift with the spacers-sans isolator (1.5" boost) to give me just a hair over a 3" front lift. Out back I was looking to use the JKS Shackles rated to give a 1" lift on the Comanche, and hope that this gives a fairly even stance front to rear. Shocks, I am open to suggestions. I was looking at some BPEs for up front to go with said shocks as well. Unsure about control arms. I have seen fixed and adjustable aftermarket options, but if I can get away with factory stuff it would be nice to stay that way. So many different opinions on this that I gave up trying to sort through it all. I do know that an adjustable track bar is recommended beyond a 2" lift, so I do have plans for that as well. Should I consider a different pitman arm as well? I already have plans for longer brake lines in the works, so that is covered. Both my front and rear rubber lines are dry rotted and in need of replacement, but I have done research on options for this.

Everybody has pretty much listed the important to know things. If you feel up to it you can convert a 21 spline input NP231 from a BA-10 to a 23 spline input. The parts will cost about as much as buying a used TC (or more) but it is an option. Don't forget to check early (1993) ZJ's for AX-15 parts you need as well. My TC, Bellhousing, clutch fork, and linkages all came from a 93 ZJ i found at the local U-pull for $90. As BootsNTrucks said, 6 of the 8 bolt locations will already be present on the frame, but you will have to create the last two holes as they don't exist (they didn't on my 1988). Tap the already existing holes with an M10 x 1.5 which is what the factory threading was for the stock holes. The last two holes you can drill out and as he mentioned use Rivnuts. http://www.grainger.com/product/Rivet-Nut-5NNN2 I have two of those exact ones in place right now, but once it warms up I am going to go back and tack weld them in place on 3 or 4 spots to ensure they stay. As far as mounting the trans to the crossmember, there is a specific bracket to the XJ/MJ AX-15 that you will need. From what I ready you said you had it, and if that is the case you will simply need a new mount. If not, you can still purchase this bracket new, and I can link you to the company I ordered mine through for $78 shipped to my door. (Post 4 in this thread has the link and part number) http://comancheclub.com/topic/41501-transmission-help-please/ As far as the clutch, I ordered a SACHS clutch for the year of my truck even though my transmission is an external. The splines and shafts of the input shaft themselves are the same, so it will work just fine. Regarding the flywheels. When installing mine I noticed that the bolt pattern to the crankshaft is actually slightly offset on a couple bolts and will only line up one way. With the tone ring for the CPS being part of the flywheel it needs to be installed a certain way in order for the computer to have the right position for the crankshaft. So, unless you plan on going with a different solution for the CPS signal, this is why just any ol' flywheel will not work.

I use Rockauto a lot, but I have learned to always price locally too and compare it to the price of the part + shipping. If the price is within a few bucks then I generally just buy it locally, because I can get it that day instead of having to wait for the mail. On the inverse though, some parts even with shipping have been over a 50% savings vs. buying at the local parts chains. My steering rack for my Isuzu was $370 locally, and $174 on Rockauto for the exact same brand. Heater core, $47 vs. 220 locally. I just ordered some moog front springs to replace the sagging ones on my Comanche. $70 (shipping included) vs. $110 through the local chains. My shocks were the same. KYB Gas-A-Just through the only local chain that sells them (NAPA) were $80 each. $36 ea. on rockauto.

I actually have a pair of tight coil shorty CB antennas matched to my CB that I am probably going to bed rail mount when/if I get around to installing it. The ash tray mounting idea was essentially what I was looking to do. With the ash tray removed it looks like it will leave a perfectly sized space for narrower CB's like mine.

I disagree. I've had a factory Trac-Lok in my '88 Cherokee since I bought it new, and I run a True Trac in my '88 Comanche. The True Trac engages much more positively than the Trac-Lok. So comparing a worn out factory limited slip to a brand new helical isn't a very fair comparison. Who is comparing a worn-out Trac-Lok to a new TrueTrac? Not me. The '88 Cherokee now has 287,000 miles on it. The original Trac-Lok lasted about 125,000, then it was rebuilt. That took it to about 200,000. The next time it got wimpy I replaced it with a new one, and that was about the same time I bought the '88 MJ and put the TrueTrac in it. So I can compare new to new. The TrueTrac is much more positive than even a new Trac-Lok. Ok, fair enough. I am not knocking Torsen style diffs at all, infact I love them and think they are just about perfect for a daily driver. They are quiet and extremely reliable. I guess our experiences with them vary a little bit, but I won't argue with you on how positive yours is. I was more trying to point out that more aggressive clutch types will be more positive than a torsen, but as you and others have pointed out the more aggressive clutch types also wear out faster. By positive, I mean the locking and/or engagement between the two axles. Clutch types can act more closely to a locking diff, but with the ability to allow slip between each axle, compared to a helical system. Helicals, by nature, are not designed to fully engage both axles at the same time, but constantly meter between the two, which gives you a more constant change of power back and forth between the axles. That ability to constantly change while never fully engaging (or "locking") the axles together is why they are so much more predictable for road racing. Clutch types will tend to engage both axles more equally, and thus cause them to become tail happy more easily. My experience with diffs comes more from track experience than off-road so I also admit I am speaking from a little ignorance in that regard. I simply know how each type behaves on a paved surface when pushed hard.

I disagree. I've had a factory Trac-Lok in my '88 Cherokee since I bought it new, and I run a True Trac in my '88 Comanche. The True Trac engages much more positively than the Trac-Lok. That goes back to what I said in that post earlier, it really depends on the individual limited slip. Most factory clutch pack style limited slips like the trac-lock you had tend to be fairly weak on engagement to make them quieter, easier to live with on a daily basis, and last longer. Throw in the already weak pre-load and lower number of spring plates in the pack and you get a smooth, quiet, happy diff that works ok on the snow and light duty situations. Add mileage to those types of diffs and they just get weaker until they eventually almost quit working all together. So comparing a worn out factory limited slip to a brand new helical isn't a very fair comparison. Heck, I have two Dana 44 Auburn limited slips that I would be glad to show you the difference an aggressive and non-aggressive pre-load makes. Auburns are a cone type diff by nature which makes them much quieter and smoother than a clutch and plate style clutch pack diff. One is a standard and the other is the Pro version. The difference in the two is huge, and the only real difference between them is the pre-load springs being heavier on the Pro model.

Overhead mounting makes me nervous. I'm 6'5 and mostly torso. As it is my head is fairly close to the headliner, and I have this thing about stuff being in close proximity of my head, even if it doesn't post much threat to actually causing me harm. I was thinking of mounting mine exactly like you have yours PFCLeist, but between the dash and mini console, right behind the shifter. It should fit, and the Hurst shifter I have on the AX-15 has a shorter throw, so the lever shouldn't even hit it.

Yes, but even Helical limited slips like the Truetrac have advantages and disadvantages. They are never a positive engagement like a clutch type would be, and as a whole they behave more like an open diff than anything else mentioned. For example, if you have the wheels off the ground and spin one by hand, the other will spin opposite since the gears aren't under enough load to cause the diff to engage. They are great for on-road use, but unlike a clutch type limited slip or a locker, if one wheel spins on a slick surface, it will actually keep spinning (although, the other will get some power at least). Or you will get a back and forth spin sometimes. Once nice thing about helicals is that they never wear out. I used to do a fair bit of road racing, and I actually preferred the helical style diffs over clutch type because of how they behaved - like an open diff but with enough positive engagement to rotate the car if needed. You will never see a drag racer using one though for the very reasons I mentioned above. As you said, research is key. That and considering the application and general use of the vehicle. For a truck that is off-road as often as on-road then I would definitely go with an auto locker or selective locker. Mostly on-road with light off-road, then a clutch type would be the better choice. They do vary greatly on how aggresive they are and behave as well as clutch setups - Cone or disc and plate. Completely on-road use, then definitely a Helical.

This actually interests me somewhat as I have my old Cobra 25 from my last truck sitting in a closet collecting dust. I was thinking about mounting it on the top of the dash, but realized that there probably won't be enough room, and it would look ugly. Since I got rid of the full size console for the mini-console, I have a space between it and the dash that would be nearly perfect for it, so I am thinking of making my own custom angled bracket with some sheet steel I have laying around and securing it to the dash rail.

I was told my truck had a limited slip, but I recently discovered that I infact had a Detroit Locker (Part Number: eat162c66a) which is the "Super Locker" version. I have to say that I have been extremely happy with how it operates. It doesn't lock up on turns (unless I really gas it), and actually manages it's locking action very smoothly and quietly. I've gotten to test it out quite a bit with the recent snows we have had. If you want an auto-locking diff then I would highly recommend it. Detroit diffs are generally a great product, but the downside can be price. Currently the Super Locker version runs around $620. I have also heard great things about the Detroit True-trac, which is considered more street friendly, but still an auto locker that is about $200 cheaper.

I have discovered through my truck and many others own experience that the contacts on these wiring setups tend to cause a lot of problems. The fuse slots, crimps, connectors, etc. I've started to just undo every connection I can find, clean them, and try to pinch/pry the contacts together.

There isn't a lot of voodoo to swapping in power windows on any vehicle. People suggest the door swap because you get a door with everything you need already there. Switches, motor, regulator, rail and the wiring. Beyond that it's just a matter of running the circuit for power, either to an existing fuse or an empty fuse slot, and the grounds to the switches. Generally windows are run on an ignition switched circuit so that they only operate in the on position as well. If you have a donor vehicle to get all the wiring from then it would make it a snap to setup. I ran across this thread that has a pretty well drawn diagram of how to run the wires. http://comancheclub.com/topic/15868-power-window-wiring/

On mine it was in the very top row, on the left (in your picture). The actual location itself is not labled, but a 7.5Amp fuse is located there. This is assuming that there isn't a difference in the fuse block between different year ranges of Comanche, or Renix vs. HO versions. I have a 1988 Pioneer 4.0L if it matters at all. I know that some other guys have said that a connection for the lights behind the drivers rear wheel can also cause problems with the reverse lights. I haven't had a chance to do the ground improvement for my instrument panel, but I am hoping it makes a difference. I have a feeling it's not going to fix all of my problems though. As far as the fuel gauge goes, after doing some reading I came across a thread on a different site that mentioned the fuel pump and sending unit use the same chassis ground behind the tail lights. This is the one ground I haven't touched yet, so I am going to tackle that when I get a chance and see if it makes a difference. I know it can't be in the best shape, because even with the new fuel pump I can tell the pump is suffering from a voltage drop just by the noise it makes. Also. from what I have found, there are two ranges for sending units on Jeeps, but nobody seems to agree on what years they switched around the resistance ratings. 90ohm E to 0Ohm F or vice versa. I guess I can fill up my tank and check the resistance going into the gauge and see which one it is closer to.

Ok, so since this truck is ripe with electrical pains in my butt. It has intermittent wipers, and they operate on one speed no matter the position (slow) so I am thinking the module is the problem. I am going to try and get up under there and bypass it to see if it makes a difference. However, that leads me to another question. Does the windshield washer fluid circuit go through said module as well, or am I looking at replacing the switch itself. The pump is new and verified as operational via. jumping it off the battery. Also,a couple of my gauges aren't reading right. Specifically, Voltage reads way low (tested at 13.8V running) at 10-11V. Gas level reads about 1/4 tank low, and I inspected the sending unit when I replaced the fuel pump and it was in excellent shape with no corrosion. I am assuming the fuel gauge is a resistance issue, which wouldn't surprise me given the amount of corroded wire I have found in this truck so far. Is there a voltage or resistance range I can test for with the Sending unit to the gauge cluster? Any ideas on what to look for with the voltage gauge?

Based on this more detailed information, I am going to have to heavily lean toward Eagle's diagnosis then. If you have the resources, then I would say this would be a great time to do an upgrade.

It's very straight forward. I don't know what your government transportation department states for aiming regulations, but it may be worth looking into. With headlights here the basic minimum aiming guideline is 1 in 25, or the top edge of the main beam pattern should go 1 inch down for every 25ft out. I usually go with 2-3 in 25, especially with trucks that I tend to haul stuff regularly and loads in the bed will point the headlights up more. In any case, you may want to try and search for that information or contact the transportation authority in your area to find out.

I second the Distributor idea. Check the timing.