Megadan

Synthetic oils, even of the same viscosity, flow more easily than conventional oils. My engine does the same thing, cold it runs without a tick or knock, but once it starts to warm up it gives a mild knocking sound from the bottom end. My lifters are fine, my pushrods are straight, and I've checked and rechecked my rocker arm torque specs multiple times. I've come to the conclusion that I have an odd piston slap issue that only happens when warm, which is kind of backwards. I've just learned to deal with it. I still have decent compression and it's pretty even across the board. Lots of guys on here and other jeep forums will say they have the same thing. FWIW, synthetic on a budget, run Rotella T6 10w40. My engine absolutely loves this stuff, and you get get it at wally world for about $20/ 5qt jug (or cheaper even). It's a great oil, and lots of guys on here use it too.

What EMS are you using? You could have just bought a pre-made harness for a megasquirt and cut the plug off. might have been cheaper/easier.

I've checked out NGW already. My bike was actually built by a member on there. I'll check out those youtube channels and see what they are about. I took the basic rider course here to get my endorsement to ride, and after a year I can take their advanced course, which I plan on doing. I'm pretty comfortable being on the road. I was a trucker for many years. Even though they are total opposites, the same basic rules apply. Assume everybody is an idiot, assume nobody can see you, and be constantly aware of your surroundings.

Not yet. This is actually my first foray into the biking world, and I am still taking it slow and cautious. Also still trying to feel out the bike, because even if it has such low miles and had a lot of work done, doesn't mean it isn't without fault. I mainly ride to work (10 miles one way) and use it on the weekends to scoot around town on.

I like big bikes. Might be because I'm a big guy. I've never been into the sport aspect as much as most people are. I like touring bikes and cruisers mainly,

I did toy with the idea of changing it into a Cafe racer, but I love the bike as it is, and the bags make it a better bike for daily driver purposes. One idea I've been toying with is making myself a "Rune" as it may have looked if they released one in 1975. The current rear fender makes is possible.to pull off a similar look. I'd have to ditch the bags and figure out the exhaust though. The Rune is one of my favorite bikes of all time. Can't afford one even now though. http://www.roadsmile.com/images/honda-rune_key_4.jpg

Somewhat local. Previous owner lived around the Waterloo area. He trailered it in for a trade with my friend, and when I saw it, I just gave my friend money for it lol

There are quite a few production cars with water to air intercoolers that do just fine daily driving. Having a fan on the heat exchanger is important, but not necessary

I still stand by my water to air intercooler idea. It would give you a lot more flexibility

Is this intercooler for the truck? If so, that tacotaco intercooler you are talking about won't work. The thing is enormously thick. On the right in the picture is said intercooler http://i.imgur.com/sWq0zerl.jpg

Short of moving the radiator back, finding an air-air intercooler that will fit will be difficult. I would recommend a water to air setup with a larger or multiple heat exchanger to help minimize heat soaking the system. Just my two cents.

I know zero about the old BMW's aside from articles written comparing the two. Yes, it is smooth, and pretty zippy given it's size. This one still needs a few little things here and there, but it's a solid bike, and it looks like it's worth a lot more than what I paid for it. The custom touches kind of confuse people, and when I say it's a '75, they usually have a surprised look on their face.

I have plans for that eventually. This garage isn't big enough for my truck and I have a lot of junk, so it ends up in purgatory garage lol.

I'm a glutton for punishment when it comes to old and rare vehicles. So when I came across this, I had to have it. 1975 Goldwing with a rear fender and bags from another bike and a custom paint job in a color I absolutely love. Only has 28k miles on it too, with the motor refreshed and carbs rebuilt about 10k miles ago. I ended up getting rid of my little Isuzu project and got this as a replacement. This will give me something else to get to work on so I can do some work to the Comanche as a side bonus. Honestly, the only thing I plan on changing is to remove the front fascia and windscreen that's on it, I love the rest of it. Oh, and don't mind the clutter, This garage is kind of a dumping ground, but I needed someplace to store it inside.

Want to know if it's worth buying, crawl under it. The unibody "frame rails" on these are a notorious rust spot and can severely compromise the integrity of the chassis. Old rusty 280's don't have too many people interested.

^That. In my last truck before I stopped driving I was running a Galaxy DX-979. They run about $150-160, but they are an excellent and fairly compact unit. I loved mine and would buy it again if I had to. They do suffer a little from SSB drift when warming up, but it seems most CB's in the lower end do, but a counter can help resolve that, and they have a port for one. It also has a nice Auto calibrating SWR feature which actually works really well, and has a warning light if it does manage to go too high. Compared to the Cobra it replaced, it also consistently reached out farther, and had better reception. That all being said, that little hand held unit will work decently enough for short range, and it does allow you many options with mounting the box since all of the controls are on the handheld. You will need a mount, antenna, coax cable, and maybe some wire to complete the install, but that's true for any other install.

Did they mention anything else that would cause the delay, or is it just simply the fact that they are overbooked? When I had my back surgery they had to schedule it 4 weeks out to even get me in, but when they went in to repair a tendon in my shoulder it was 4 days later. I can't comment on the recovery times, because every surgery I have had required 4-6 weeks and then physical therapy and MRI/Xray's afterward. The worst was my ankle by far, which they had to go in twice to put in pins. I'm not old (33) but i've hurt myself a bunch lol. As far as the lost time, you would be surprised what you can do even with restrictions. I changed to different goals to get things out of the way and saved the bigger stuff for when I was better. In any case, I wish you well and hope that your recovery is quick.

Take the turbo manifold, blast it/clean it. Put it in the oven or even a gas grill and get it hot. Weld chosen bung, also pre-heated, to manifold using stainless or high-silica wire/rod. Then put the whole shebang in a bucket of sand to control the rate that it cools at. I've had great success welding cast iron this way. Otherwise, the idea to drill and tap the manifold itself will work as long as you find a decently thick enough location. Usually somewhere right near the flange.

Another tip, do the uppers first and don't tighten anything until it's all lined up and all bolts are in.

Another vote for the Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 with a small bottle of STP oil treatment (Less than $3 and has ZPPD additive) It's all I have used on my truck after trying a couple of others. Runs the best, lasts the longest. I still do 3000-3500 intervals, but that's because my rings are a little worn and my oil will start to get a strong fuel smell to it around that time.

That's me! lol

I drive a flat tan long bed with a small lift. Not sure if it was me or not, but I get talked to every time I stop for fuel, so it's hard to remember lol

Looks like a pretty nice long bed for the money and has some cash put into it. Maybe offer him 2k and go from there, but for around these parts it's not a bad deal. Water pumps are cheap and easy to do on these. I would definitely inquire about the floors. My truck is pretty rust free, but even I have a hole in the floor.

Mine is a Renix, and while they can be a pain in the butt sometimes, it's mostly because of their age. A lot of the renix issues are sensor/wiring related and all relatively easy fixes. Put in the time to do it right when you repair things, and you should have a good truck for a while.

I can't believe I just now saw this. Greetings fellow Husker! Good luck finding a Comanche around here for cheap in good shape. Mine isn't even perfect, but it's relatively much better than most of the one's I see go up for sale around here. If you are willing to travel a bit then keep an eye on Kansas, because I have seen more than a few decent trucks pop up over there in the last year or so.