Megadan

Looking like progress is getting made. From what I have heard, it's a good idea to clean up and paint the inside/back side of the Fey bumpers. They don't really have much protection and will rust out pretty quick, so it's a good idea to do so.

I think the real question would be more along the lines of how often you would be doing big heavy loads. With any regularity, I would definitely favor the 4.0L over the 2.5, but the 2.5 can get the job done. My mentality is skewed from years of driving tractor-trailers. The bigger engine is always worth it lol

This would essentially be an HO Swap for your Renix. For the transmission...If auto, yes. If manual, no (assuming both are factory). Search around for HO Swap info. Check Cruisers Tips (I believe it's 17 or 19) regarding an HO Motor into a Renix and/or do a little searching to find some answers. It's out there.

I didn't see a 29 tooth one listed there. Either it's gone or I'm blind (which I am). I did see a 34 tooth, but considering that is what's in my truck at the moment, it wouldn't be very useful lol. Also, I am not a member of NAXJA. I probably should be though...

No longer needed!

The 2.5 is plenty peppy for normal driving, but for hauling a full load of gravel? It may move it around, but I question it's effectiveness lol

You could do an 8 pin Deutsch connector, which looks most similar to the factory style. Can't confirm if it is the same type though.

GM/Delphi Weather Pack is what he is referring to. You can buy indidivual pins and connectors from NAPA. I re-wired and pinned my TPS when I was going through my engine wiring harness. Most of the electrical connectors in these trucks are GM Weather Pack. Being what looks like an 8 pin, there won't be a similar GM/Delphi style weather pack, but you could run two 4 pin connectors in it's place, or go to the JY and get a good one from another vehicle as suggested.

I wouldn't limit yourself to just short beds. The long bed is only 1 ft longer than the short bed. I love my long bed. If the extra length bothers you, get a long bed and bob the bed 1 ft lol. The 2.5, as I understand it is gutless, but they are every bit as reliable as the 4.0L.

Meh, the BA10/5 isn't that heavy of a transmission anyway. Just remember our ratchet strap ideas and/or a good floor jack and a board. I did mine without a transmission jack, and I did it with the T-case bolted to the transmission. It will be a little frustrating, but it's easily doable.

all 6 cylinders are within 15% of each other, so that's good. If I remember correctly, a Renix 4.0L should be around 150psi +/- 10 in good shape, so again, you aren't too far off. The lower compression on one or two cylinders can sometimes be caused by buildup allowing a bit of compression loss, or other common problems with old age. The real question is, did you perform a leak down test? That would be more telling if your rings themselves are worn.

Well, cost depends on how you want to go. I went to the junkyard and removed the backing plate/bracket/dust shield from a ZJ for $15 each and cleaned them up and I'm going to paint them black. I bought rebuilt calipers for $18+5 core(ea.) and rear pads for $15 from a buddy that works at a parts store. Parking brake hardware and shoes and rear rotors off rock auto for about $60 shipped. So maybe $150 ish, new cables will be another $30ish and any other small misc costs for hardware on top of that. Just round it off and call it $200, but that was for 90% new/rebuilt stuff. You could probably get it done cheaper with used bits, but I prefer to start fresh.

Doing a search, the 2006 Grand Cherokee and Commander rear parking brake cables seem to be a potential winner. They are only about 1-2 inches shorter than the MJ Cables and look to have the correct ends on them. I may order one and see

That's not a bad idea. The Liberty and explorer cables are 77-78" in length, which is defintely longer, but there may be a way to work around it better. At least I would have slack if I do a lift later. :laughin:

All of the off the shelf cable measures of a ZJ passenger side are 43" (rounded up) while the rear Comanche cables are 52" (rounded up). That's a 9" difference in total length, which is quite a bit. Did you move the loop hangers for the cables, or maybe run them differently?

I've got most of my parts together for my rear disc swap and WJ Booster and Master upgrade. I do have new E-brake cables already for the truck, but I do know that the cable ends for the E-brake are different, and that the ZJ e-brake cables are roughly half the length of the MJ which makes them not really useable. I've done a little searching on the swap, but all of the XJ info out there simply says "use ZJ cables" and I don't find much of anything useful that is MJ Specific. What I am looking for is links, pics, etc of what you or someone else has done to solve the E-brake actuation with the ZJ rear discs. As it stands I can still do the swap and be no worse for wear because my e-brake doesn't work with my drums either (front cable broke), but it would be nice to have an actual working e-brake some day.

I don't know about Marvel, aside from the fact that it's very thin and a relatively aggressive solvent, but I have been running Shell Rotella T6 (Synthetic diesel oil) with a bottle of Rislone engine treatment (A softer cleaning agent). Over the course of a year and 5 oil changes My oil went from coming out pure black after just 2000 miles to a dark brown that I can see some light through as it drains. Diesel oil has an added benefit of extra additives that do better at suspending carbon in the oil, while the synthetic aspect of T6 makes it far more stable at higher temps, which alleviates further buildup. The rislone does a good job of slowly eating away at the deposits during normal operation over time vs. an add and drain "flush" procedure. I would recommend something similar to this over a more aggressive solvent that can potetnially cause the oil pickup to the pump to clog. I could be mistaken about Marvels aggressiveness, but that aside, I was never a fan of how thin that stuff is. I guess if it was added to a thicker oil like T6 15w-40, it would be alright though.

I was running 10w-30 in my AX-15, and I really did not like it. Transmission was far noisier, hotter (no carpet, so heat radiated through floor), and the trans shifted very notchy. Redline is one of a couple companies that makes GL-3 and GL-4 gear oils specifically for manual transmissions. Is it cheap? No, but MT-90 is safe for transmissions that require GL4 or GL-3. I will spend my silly amounts of money on MT-90, because it's worth it. To the OP, opinions are like armpits (especially on the internet). If you can just run 75w-90, then run it. If you feel that Syncromesh is a better alternative, go ahead and use that. It sounds to me like either work, When in doubt, go for factory.

As long as it's not GL5 I think you are ok. Redline MT-90 is good stuff, but it is $65 a gallon ($12 a quart). Worth every penny IMHO, but yea....pricey

Seems like a little sandpaper would be cheaper if that's all that's wrong with 'em. lol, I had the same exact thought.

Dex/Merc 3 should be plenty fine. If you want to be silly you can go synthetic. If you want to be ridiculous (Me!) you can go with Redline D4 I am silly like that though, as my trans has Redline MT-90 75W-90, T-case has D4, Axles have Redline standard75w-90 gear oil (not recommended for transmissions btw), and I am running Penzoil Platinum ultimate in the engine.... Heck, even my greasable parts have synthetic waterproof high temp grease on the chassis/ Is it obvious I love my synthetics? :D

Ahh Gotcha. Sounds like shortening the stock driveshaft would be the way to go then.

^I bought that same bracket brand new for $65 from an online chrysler parts warehouse. From what I can tell though, he is not swapping an AX-15 into his truck, which means that bracket isn't necessary.

Honestly, if you already have the SYE kit and you have to have a driveshaft made in either case, why not just install it? Or am I missing something?

As long as the relays have the same pin layout and amp rating, whatever you can find will work. I had to buy a shrouded relay for a friends Datsun pickup and cut away the plastic shrouding because it was the only one with the right pin layout and amp rating we could find. 5 minutes with a dremel, works like a charm.