terrawombat

I just picked this up over the weekend. It was quite an adventure considering it was a 915 mile round trip to get this truck and I needed to get it done in a single day and still make it home for dinner. Did a straight trade with a member on these forums - ahmincha (Mike). Gave him my 1991 Jeep Wrangler and received his 1992 Jeep Comanche in return. He needed a 4x4 vehicle for plowing and I just really wanted a '92 MJ. Left NJ at 2:45AM, arrived in Ohio around 9:30AM. Met with Mike, looked over the MJ, went for a quick test drive, visited the local motor vehicle office and obtained my temporary registration and tags. Loaded up the MJ with a bunch of spare parts that Mike gave me (thanks again, man!) and headed back to NJ around 12:30PM and got back at 8:00PM just in time for my girlfriend to serve me dinner :D It was an interesting journey, not one that I'd like to make again any time soon, but I'm very happy with the truck. It may have over 225K miles on it, but you'd never know. Mike replaced just about everything on the front end, the entire cooling system, and a bunch of random odds and ends throughout the truck. Oil pressure is great, engine doesn't overheat, and the transmission shifts great. It still needs some attention on the interior and bed and that's where my project will start. I've currently got the bench seat out and am washing the covers and replacing the foam padding on the base. I'm going to stick with the bench seat as opposed to going buckets because my dog travels with me just about everywhere (he came with me on the 15+ hour drive for this truck) and he likes stretch out and nap most of the time. I'll keep this thread going as I make progress with the MJ, but I haven't done too much as I've been catching up on lost sleep! Here's a shot from a rest stop on the ride back to NJ: Here's a link to an album of pictures sent to me by the PO: I will be keeping this album updated as I make progress with the truck. Some details on the truck: 1992 Jeep Comanche Base (build date 3/92) 4.0L HO Engine with AX-15 5-speed (2WD) and D35 rear Originally a Kentucky truck

How much are these ecotec engines running in the junkyards? I rarely, if ever, see any vehicle over '05 in any of my yards and anything newer than that goes to the "special" section where you can't touch them and the yard has to sell you the parts...

Don't have an HO cluster, but had two Renix lenses (with holes) sitting next to this computer so I thought I'd at least throw these up for reference... Dunno, maybe it'll help someone...

My guess would be Bosch.

I just fixed this same problem last week. My turn signals still blinked, but the buld is supposed to remain lit when the blinker is off and that was not happening. I ripped up a small piece of sandpaper and cleaned the terminals on both turn signal sockets, smeared dielectric grease inside and they've been working great.

Behind the fan there are four nuts that bolt it down to the pulley. Remove those four nuts and try to pull the fan off. It may require some convincing since there is a shaft nub in the middle that fits kind of tight. I usually use a rubber mallet and lightly tap on the backside of the fan until I can get some separation between the pulley and the fan clutch mounting base, then I can get a prybar in there to pull it off the rest of the way if it's really stuck. It sounds to me like you removed the four bolts that hold the actual fan blades to the fan clutch. Removing those will just make removing the whole assembly a bigger pain in the rear since the fan blade will be flopping all over the place as you try to remove the four nuts on the pulley. I'd recommend putting those bolt back in for easier access to the pulley nuts. If you're trying to remove the hood release cable itself, then you need to gently push up on the black plastic portion of the cable at the end where it is slotted to fit into the hood bracket. Once the cable is free, you can manuever it any way you wish to get the cylinder at the end of the cable out of the lever arm it sits in.

Well, it'd certainly be an interesting vehicle to have in the fleet. ...and if kastein can own one and manage to park it at his apartment complex, ANYONE should able to squeeze it in somewhere :D

Well, yea, you can and that's essentially what Paypal does. When they 'assisted' you in getting your money back, they took it from the seller's Paypal account balance. If there was no money in the Paypal account balance, then they reached right into the bank account that is linked to the Paypal account and got the money that way. If there was no money in that, it doesn't matter as the bank account would become overdrawn and that person would have to pay the fines his/her banks imposes for overdrawing an account. This is one problem that people have with Paypal - they can reach into your personal saving/checking account and take money if need be. It seems that they'll often to this without even consulting with you...they just DO it. I've never had an issue with Paypal or ebay, other than ebay's ridiculous listing fees so I'll continue to use both, but likely won't ever sell on e-bay again.

I guess I have everyone stumped. I'm going to perform a leakdown test to see if I can draw any conclusions from that. If I have a cracked head/block, I'll likely need to do a hot leakdown test to get any usable results...

The fuel pump on my Pioneer is REALLY loud, but only after it has been running for a bit. Sometimes I can feel it vibrate in my drivers seats. It's still going strong...

Dang, I thought I had it... Replaced the stock radiator with a 2-row all metal one. Found another fan clutch in my spare parts bin that is better than the other two I tried. Replaced everything on the truck, lifted the rear end WAY up, removed the rear temp sensor on the head and filled the cooling system until coolant puked out the sensor hole. Reinstalled sensor, tightened up the cap and let her run. The engine gradually warmed up to just below 210 and stayed there. Woo! Took it out for a 15 mile test drive. Drove it around town with plenty of stop lights and stop signs. Temp held steady. Went to a drive-thru and sat behind some lady who couldn't make up her mind about what she wanted. Temp held steady. Headed towards the highway. Thought about all the things I can start doing to the truck now that this cooling system issue is out of the way...new tires on the stock 5-spokes, center console, repaint...this truck would look better than ever. Entered highway...temps rose and continued to rise. Panicked and threw the heat on full blast. No change...we're hovering right around the mark before the RED zone on the gauge. Pulled off the highway and headed back home on 45MPH backroads. Temp held at the mark before the red zone and would not drop. Got it back to my shop and let it idle outside while I opened the doors. Temp held steady at the tick mark before the red zone. So we're right back where we started. The truck still doesn't technically overheat to the point where steam pours out of the cap and the truck starts knocking and sounding like poo. It seems as once it breaks that 210 degree threshold, NOTHING can make the temps come back down except for shutting it down and letting it cool off. So, we're not really overheating, but running nice and HOT. Can anyone draw any conclusions from this?

That certainly doesn't sound legal. But, nice score. Good to see another Olympic Edition MJ :D

Ironically, I found one of the two fittings I need to mate the stock auto trans lines up to the manual trans radiator (came from a junk aftermarket radiator out of an '01XJ). I do have the second of two fittings, but I can't seem to get it to fit onto one of the auto trans cooling lines. Ideally, I'd like to put an aftermarket trans cooler in this thing, but I want to make sure I have the cooling system issue nailed down before I drop any more coin into it. Thinking the cooling issue may be something a little more complex, like a cracked head.

Removed radiator tonight - original AMC unit that appears to be in great shape. Ran water through it for a while - no gunk came out and it seems to be flowing just fine. Don't really think the radiator is the problem, but I was a little disappointed that the original OEM unit was a single row, plastic endtank radiator. The radiator out of my '88MJ SporTruck is an all metal and 2-row (I think) radiator, but it was manual transmission and I can't swap over the fittings from the other radiator since they seem to be built into the endtank. Wonder if I can get a fitting kit for the manual trans radiator to connect the auto trans cooling lines up to...

Don't most of us already have one of these devices in our pocket most of the day, anyway? We also use them to make calls and send text messages...

I'm sure it has some kind of effect on performance, but I'd like to know exactly what it does before I'd even consider buying it. How does it integrate into the existing ECU? Do you need to splice wires? It says it's ready to plug in...where do I plug it in? It's not like the computer has some expansion slot built into it. I'd imagine this is much like any other 'performance' chip where it 'tricks' the computer into thinking it has a different value for a certain sensor so it either dumps more or less fuel in accordingly. I suppose it may do the same with timing, but I'd like to know how it accomplishes these 50+HP and 50+Torque gains, while increasing fuel efficiency. Although, I'm reading fuel efficiency as fuel mileage, but that's probably not the case at all. They probably mean that you're getting more HP and Torque out of each drop of gasoline, therefore increasing your 'efficiency', but making your MPG's plummet.

I'm 99.9% positive that's what it's doing. I'll check again tonight, but the lower radiator hose was piping hot and the upper wasn't too bad. I think I'm going to carefully drain the coolant (to be reused) and take the radiator out and see if it's plugged.

How is the coolant supposed to flow? Into the radiator via the lower rad. hose and back out at the upper? Or the other way around?

I think I still have the box that the water pump came in so I'll take a look to make sure it's the right part number.

All I gathered from this is that if the government doesn't bail your company out it's okay to drink during your lunch break.

I'll try your suggestion with the engine off and cool. I replaced the cap with the one off my other MJ, which didn't have any cooling issues - no change. The wrong water pump? I suppose it's possible - what would be "wrong" about it? Pretty sure I got it off of RockAuto, but it's been about a year since I replaced that guy.

I can tell by your tone that you're not serious about it. You'll get through a couple weeks I'm sure, but that's about it. I live with a recovered alcoholic and the steps he had to take to get to where he is now were pretty extreme. He's at the point now where he can be around me and my friends while we are drinking and not feel any temptation. He picked up some hobbies to distract him from wanting to drink and I think it has really helped, not to mention has made our front yard look amazing (his hobby is gardening). I, myself, cannot stop drinking and I'm not even going to pretend like I'm going to quit. I've made "decisions" like yours several times, but it's pointless. I drink to make social situations more comfortable to me, but most of all, I drink because all of my friends do and it's just something that we've always done. Lately, I've been getting to the blackout state of drunkenness, which scares the hell out of me because I really don't know what I'm capable of doing while in that state. From stories I've heard, I'm extremely functional and coherent, but also extremely wreckless. I've set a goal for myself to not get blackout drunk anymore. If I can achieve that, we'll go from there...

Well, the rear end of the truck was lifted and the sensor was out for a few minutes before I ran the engine. Not sure how long you're supposed to let the air bubbles accumulate...minutes, hours, days?? I read about drilling the hole in the T-Stat AFTER I installed it so I'm not sure if it came that way. I'll see if I can find a product-specific picture of it to see if there is a hole in it. Yes, I installed it the right way :D Or, at least I installed it the same way as the other 5 T-Stats I've done in 4.0L engines...

I checked the lower radiator hose to see if it was collapsing and it is not. In fact, both hoses are completely engorged with fluid when it's up to operating temp (and beyond) so I have no doubt there is liquid flowing through the radiator. The temp sender is brand spanking new, but that's not to say it can't be bad, that's why I busted out my infrared temp sensor to make sure it wasn't just a faulty sender. Sure enough, the truck is running warmer than it should.

Yea, heater blows good heat and will drop down a tiny bit with it on - maybe 10 degrees. I've never flushed the radiator out and as far as I know, it's the original.