terrawombat

I actually had about $200 in my shopping cart, but had to remove items because they were coming from remote locations and I was getting charged a premium for shipping. Careful shopping at RockAuto needs to be done to ensure all parts come from the same location to minimize shipping costs. This is generally easy to do if you don't get too brand-specific. It's also easy to do if you only need parts for a specific task, i.e. cooling system as it seems all of their cooling system parts reside in the same warehouse. RockAuto used to be my default go-to for any parts, but lately I've been finding great deals on Amazon that typically have Prime shipping. Couple that with the massive east coast warehouse 45 minutes up the road and I'm usually getting parts the next day. I rarely need to stop into a brick and mortar store so I'm able to maximize my time spent at home working on my vehicles. Only downside is the massive increase in cardboard I need to throw away...

I hit this up in January of this year - spent about $100 and got a gigantic box full of parts. There are some good deals to be had and most of them are not necessarily specific to the 92.

As the "designer" of the sideplates for krusty's hitch I can confirm that it was directly copied from the Drawtite hitch and then I added an additional hole (per the request of forum members) that ties into the rear leaf spring mounting bolt. If you don't wish to use this extra hole, it can be cut off with a cutting wheel.

Found it on eBay. Link to the one I bought: http://www.ebay.com/itm/221517351853?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT You may want to hold off until I confirm it actually works with the Bosch pump on the Renault. It came with a few different threaded adapters so it should work, but I haven't confirmed that yet. I may be able to check it out tonight if I get some time. The kits can be had for much cheaper if you already have a dial indicator handy (I did not): http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/252025602002?lpid=82&chn=ps I also demand cases for all of my tools so I always pay a little extra for that.

Injection pump static timing. I'm trying to trace down why the truck is running so rich and idles like crap. The injection pump was replaced by the previous, previous owner and I have no clue if he clocked the pump correctly.

Just in parts gathering mode at the moment: Also, big thanks to none other than Rob (automan) for cluing me into the 1986 Comanche factory service manuals on eBay: The coolest thing about the factory service manual is all of the additional I.S. (Informational Services) bulletins that were attached to the end of the book. There are about 45 of them in total and it's basically an inside look into AMC/Chryco's engineering department at the time of the truck's release. There were apparentely a lot of known issues with the trucks that were never serious enough to make it to a recall and the I.S. bulletins served as a means for the dealerships to identify this issues and correct them. I have already spent about 2 hours reading through some of these. It's like a mini time capsule for me.

Much worse things have been done with Cherokees.

http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/bik/5136497390.html I'd probably rock it.

Jeez - so many offers to come help me weld in floors...I might as well have a ComancheClub gathering at my place. Started receiving various engine parts today. The ACDelco alternator arrived...all 70A worth! Bolted right in and seemed to be doing okay immediately on startup as I was registering about 13.2V and would bump up to 13.6V if I revved it a bit. Noticed that as the truck ran more the voltage started dropping all the way down to 12.0V. A little puzzled, I leaned over the drivers side fender to see if I had a loose wire on the alternator and as I did that I laid my forearm down on two relays that are bolted to the inner fender well...and they were HOT! Not having a service manual (or any manual for that matter) I don't know what they are, but I decided to yank them both out anyway. The truck kept on running and my charging system voltage bumped up to 13.5V. It appears I have a resistance issue that needs to be taken care of. I'm guessing the terminals in the relay plug-in base are beyond corroded and need a good cleaning. Since the engine wiring harness is so small I'll probably just go over everything once the rest of my parts show up and I really dive into the engine.

I'm serious - I don't want it. It's not in great condition, either except for the rear carpeted panel, rear trim piece and B-pillar covers. The dash has some cracks, the door sill covers are scratched and the seat has a tear. Once I'm 100% positive I will not be using it, I'll gladly put it all on a pallet and ship it down to you...you just pay the freight. Not much to update. Got a brief chance to work on the truck tonight. In the process of completely gutting the interior so I can begin cutting out all of the bad metal. My dog loves his new chill spot:

I don't smoke and don't allow it in the truck anyway so I went ahead and replaced the cigarette lighter with a USB charger:

The clutch slave cylinder went out on me about a year ago. It was a slow leak so I was able to keep refilling the reservoir every week to get me by. Eventually it completely let go and was puking brake fluid all over the place so I decided to park it until I could get it fixed. She sat for about 3-4 months while I waffled about dropping the transmission or searching for an external slave unit. I eventually sucked it up, dropped the trans and replaced the slave cylinder, clutch disc & pressure plate with the LuK "heavy duty" set. I decided to replace the flywheel just because. The original looked to be okay, but for the cost of a brand new one it would have been stupid for me NOT to do it. I also had a nagging issue of the factory shift knobs self destructing: I went through two of these factory-style shift knobs before I put them on the blacklist and moved on to something else: I'm happy to report that it's held up much longer than the factory-style knobs and it feels a whole lot better too. Best of all, it's still a knob in the Jeep family (believe it's out of the CJ/YJ series). I did have to re-tap the internal threads to fit on the MJ shift post - just an FYI. I'm going to keep my eye out for this same shift knob in leather and I think I will have finally found my happy place.

If things pan out the way I hope I may have a full gray interior being installed from a donor truck. At which point I'll be shipping the entire porno red interior to you. I'll send you a text later today - thanks.

How about I buy you a round trip plane ticket to the lovely Baltimore Washington airport. I supply transport, lodging, food, beer, sheet metal and ,of course, a diesel MJ for you to work on.

Yes, this is Kleer's old truck. Why do you suspect I'll be happy at the end of this journey? The only hubbub about the diesel is its rarity. Other than that, it's just another ordinary MJ, I suppose. I was only able to find two diesels on your list. One of which is opsled's old truck. I sent the white one to my buddy who lives up in Michigan. He likes to buy unnecessary vehicles so I wouldn't be surprised if he bought it.

I dug into the truck a little bit today to assess just how bad the interior really is.... Patches for days: What could be hiding under such patches? The following pictures are not for the Comanche faint of heart... ....you've been warned I'll be calling around to a couple of local shops next week that do classic restos to see what kind of damage I'm in for. I've done enough floor pans for me to know it's almost worth paying someone else to do it...

I will be constantly messaging/nagging you for info - don't you worry. At this current time, pictures from 20 feet and further are about all you want to see. Other than the diesel engine and metric ton package this is a bare-bones MJ. In fact, I was surprised that it came with a carpeted rear panel behind the seat. Unfortunately someone got to the original build sheet before I could so I'm not able to confirm that the Metric Ton package is factory, however, it does have the AMC 20 rear and upgraded rear leafs so it's not too far-fetched to believe it came this way...

I've had my eye on Craigslist for many years in search of two Comanche unicorns: 1) 1987 Laredo with factory power windows/door locks and every available option 2) 1986 factory-equipped 2.1L turbo diesel I'm happy to say that I've found my second unicorn. I'll admit up front that it's not exactly the model that I wanted. I was really hoping for a fully decked out MJ like Rob (automan) has, but since so few factory diesel MJs were ever made (does anyone have the exact figure?) I couldn't be too picky. I also told myself after my second Comanche floor repair job that I was done with that and I would only look at vehicles south of Virginia, but sometimes you need to make exceptions and a factory diesel Comanche is one of those exceptions. My plans are quite simple - give this little truck a second chance at life. It needs a lot of body repair, complete repaint, brakes, engine tune-up (hopefully that is all), and an interior refresh. This is going to be a long one so try not to fall asleep - I'll keep this thread up to date as I make progress. Specs: 1986 Jeep Comanche Factory-equipped 2.1L Renault turbo diesel, 5-speed manual Factory-equipped metric ton package (I believe, hope to find original build sheet to confirm) AMC 20 rear, Dana 30 front, 4.10 gears Only picture I have so far: The seller lived about 10 minutes away from where I went to college so I had to stop and snap a picture in front of the engineering building where I spent a large majority of my late teens, early 20's.

Haven't tried planes or warships - just world of tanks. I get too addicted to online games and I'm just starting to come off my World of Tanks high...

Glow plugs - not injectors.

War of Tanks on PC is all I play.

Longbed topper is worth a couple bucks, too.

Yea the slave isn't a tight fit. The retaining lockwasher is there just to keep the slave from moving all around when you reinstall the transmission. I installed a slave cylinder from a LuK clutch kit and it was the same way. Have about 100 miles on the truck since the install and no issues to speak of.

Use this trick instead: Image Not Found

I just went through this whole exercise with my 92 last week. I used the grease trick to force the pilot bearing out and it worked well. Messy, but effective. It was only after I was done cleaning up the mess that I realized I had purchased a cheap slide hammer kit from Horrible Freight several years ago that would have done the trick without the mess (http://www.harborfreight.com/15-piece-slide-hammer-and-puller-set-5469.html). I really need to go through and do an inventory on my tools... As for the fluid I used Pennzoil Synchromesh. While many have used regular 10W30 motor oil and say they have had no problems, I would recommend against it. I used 10W30 on my 91YJ with an AX15 and the transmission got noticeably worse as time went on. Pennzoil Synchromesh states that their manual transmission fluid is safe for yellow metals with an API GL-3 performance rating.