terrawombat

:agree: Can't argue with that. Where was that picture taken?

Your logic is profound... There's a guy on these forums that has a 5/3/92 build date. There is information suggesting that the last MJ rolled off the line 5/18/92, but we haven't found it yet.

I know that many of the "Chief" trim packages for the MJ and XJ came with black interiors, but I believe only on the 1984-1987 model years. I know that automan will likely chime in to clarify :D Elusive.

Here is another option: http://www.amazon.com/Innovate-Motorspo ... 337&sr=1-2 I have one waiting to be installed on my 5.9L ZJ. I also have the AEM on my '91 3000GT VR-4 and it has worked flawlessly for the last 25K miles or so. I bought it from this vendor for $180.00 many years ago. I see he is still honoring that price. http://www.maximalperformance.com/store ... od_10.html It looks like there is an e-bay vendor selling them for $169 shipped: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AEM-Air- ... ccessories

Watch the clip starting at 21 seconds. Even the mighty Clydesdale is scared of a little mouse :D

Nah

This is good to know. I hope that I will have the same luck with my drivetrain combo.

So, hows she sound?

I believe the dimensions were from the midpoint of the radii. PM me your e-mail address and I can send the file in an AutoCAD format that will work with the programs you referenced.

I wasn't able to get around to altering my bracket design to include the rear shackle bolt. Found a buyer for the engine/trans in my 99XJ so I spent quite a bit of time getting it all ready to yank out of the engine bay. I'll be back on this next week...

Is that full size spare tire made of gold? Looks like it's leaning a bit.

I've got an afternoon obligation tomorrow, but I'm going to see if I can get the new side plate with rear shackle bolt drawn up and cut in the morning. I found some old, rusty 14Ga. steel in my parents garage that ought to be good for a template or two.

LOL. Don't feel threatened. The worst I can do is say no. I'll happily do the modification for the inclusion of the rear shackle bolt. The only thing I need to make clear is that once the DXF file leaves my hands, it's no longer my responsibility. If a large production run of these are made using my drawing and it winds up that my frame (for whatever reason) is different and this bracket fits on no one's rig, I can't be held accountable. :D

What it would take for me? I would bolt my already made bracket to the frame and would carefully measure where the shackle bolt hole is and revise my drawing to include it. I would then cut another piece out to test fit and adjust accordingly. What would it take for you? You'd need a CAD program to open the DXF file and edit it. The eDrawings program I mentioned earlier is just a viewer and doesn't allow you to do editing, but maybe the paid "professional" version does? I'm not sure. On another note - looks like I just came across quite a bit of 3/16" and 1/4" steel

You talking about the DIY where the guy dremel'ed out a hole in the gauge face for the column shift indicator? I've seen that and have seen multiple people try their hand at it, but have yet to see one I was impressed with. I have a completely FUBAR'ed full gauge cluster that I can practice on before I do it on the "real thing."

I have a full gauge cluster with the big fuel gauge instead of the tach, but no cutout for the shift indicator. I bought this because I thought I could just swap over my fuel gauge w/cutout from my idiot light cluster to this one. Unfortunately, that wasn't the case - it didn't fit for one reason or another. However, if I could simply swap gauge faces, I'd be fine.

Thanks for the information, fellas. I swapped in a full gauge cluster into my Pioneer, but then lost the column shift indicator. Thought I could just swap over the old fuel gauge with the cutout for the shift indicator already there, but it didn't bolt in correctly. If I can find a way to swap the faces, I'd be golden. I'll give the suggestions in here a go :thumbsup: Wonder if this would work: 7oYq_l8wLAo

So, Mr. Postman, are those dimensions for the inside of the box or overall dims? Just curious...

Get over there and save it! On the subject of '86MJs. Did they have a different firewall than the rest of the MJs to accommodate the V6 a little better? I thought I heard that somewhere, but not sure if it's true. Also, I've seen some 86MJ builds and it looks as though the front-most cross member is different than the rest.

I think they might fit in the Priority Mail Medium Flat Rate Box (FRB2), which has dimensions of 13-5/8" x 11-7/8" x 3-3/8". I don't know if those are inside dimensions or overall dimensions, but if they're inside, then yes, it'll fit: I've got those boxes at home - I'll see if I can squeeze it in there... Those boxes are $10.95 (at the post office) or $10.50 (online) for shipping. It'll probably be worth it for 1/4" thick plates since they'll have some weight...

Yes, Autodesk has a free viewer too. I mentioned eDrawings because all of my 3D CAD experience is with SolidWorks (the creators of eDrawings). I no longer use SolidWorks for making the parts that I cut on my machine because it would be overkill for that. I got a serial & activation number of an old version of TurboCAD from my office that I use for creating the 2D shapes and profiles to be cut on my plasma machine. It has worked flawlessly for that. Jeepers are unique in the sense that when we want something done - we do it ourselves. Jeepers are normally much more adept in machining and fabrication skills than any of the other communities I am a part of. Because of this fact, I know that my profit margins will be low when I start cutting out parts and selling them and that's okay. My main goal for my product line is to improve upon factory parts. I'm catering to the guys who want to maintain the factory look of the vehicle, but want to improve upon the shortcomings and oversights of Jeep i.e. rear bumper brackets. Last week I had two different types of people come to my shop and pick up some parts I was giving away. The first was a fellow from the 'import tuner world.' He came in nice shoes, jeans, and a leather jacket. His hands were clean as a whistle with not a trace of dirt under his nails. For a guy coming to pick up two engines and a transmission, he certainly didn't wear the right attire. The second guy that came later in the day was a Jeeper. He had a pair of dirty jeans, some well-worn work boots and there were still traces of grease on his hands from earlier in the day when he was wrenching on something. There was also a hint of 'gojo' orange on his clothes. :thumbsup:

From tracing a cardboard template, cutting it out, measuring once, twice, three, four times, and drawing the part in my CAD program - total time was only about 2 hours. Creating the machine code from the drawing was about 5 minutes and setting up the machine took about a half hour, but only because I was using it as a wood router previously and needed to put all of the plasma parts back on. Otherwise, it would have taken about 5 minutes to set up the machine. Cutting the part out was only about a minute, which can be seen from the video I posted. I then test fit the part on the truck, realized it didn't fit, and measured it against the Draw-tite hitch. I spent another half hour tweaking my original design and cut out a new revision, which is the drawing I posted above. So all in all, not much time at all! Technology has come a long way in helping reduce drafting and machining time. A DXF file is a universal drawing file that can be open in just about any CAD program. If a particular CAD program cannot open it, it's not worth owning that software. A DXF file is the PDF of the CAD world. It's simply a series of vectors that are laid out in the shape of your part. The CAM software reads the vector information and chooses a cut path for the machine to follow and generates a string of code, called G-Code. G-Code is pretty primitive stuff and the G-code file (a TAP file) can be opened in Notepad or Wordpad and easily be interpreted if you know what each of the commands mean. I'm going to e-mail you the DXF file that I used to cut the bracket out - it will not include any of the dimensions in the above blueprint I posted. If you care to view it, there is a program called eDrawings. eDrawings is to DXF files as Adobe Acrobat Reader is to PDF files. It's free to download and will allow you to view a variety of different CAD file formats. The link to download it is here: http://www.edrawingsviewer.com/ Machining isn't my main source of income. If it were, I'd be living under my plasma machine and eating the small particles of metal left behind from the cutting process. I currently do this as a hobby only and cut parts for myself when I need them. I bought my CNC plasma with the intentions of keeping it a hobby until I felt comfortable enough with it that I could start using it for production purposes. That time has not yet come, but it's mainly because of issues with machine, itself. Once I can get a new bracket made for my floating Z-axis and a bigger, cleaner, dryer air supply I'll be in a good position to start making use of the many CAD drawings I've made up for various parts for MJs, XJs, and ZJs. You're very welcome for the dimensioned drawing. I apologize it took so long to get it to you, but not having remote access or internet on the CNC PC makes it difficult for me to pull files from it since my USB memory stick seems to corrupt every file I put on it. I should probably just buy another one - they're like $10 these days...

I'm not positive that this is the FACTORY service manual, but it is a service manual of sorts...

The E-fan switch is set to around 220*F, but that doesn't mean that's a normal operating temperature. The E-fan comes on when the mechanical fan can't do the work and the truck goes into 'OH CRAP WE'RE A HEATIN' UP" mode.

Since when? The FSM for a Renix-Era XJ lists the standard temperature as 192-198*F.