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thanks, Pete! maybe early-mid 90s? I just went to autozone.com and there's different ones for 1995 and 1997 Tom

can anyone recommend a longer rear brake hose for my 87 MJ??

click me!

Jim-- Looks like my rear hose that goes into the splitter on the axle is beat up, so I'm going to replace it. I think I remember you doing a longer one (I'm lifted 3-4") from -- was it a van?? Anyone? thanks tom

I have trouble splicing a line. I have a decent bender, I just know I'd end up with a giant pretzel, and be tangled at the middle of it. How do you got about it? I'm not even sure what the apparatus you mentioned does. Do you get a giant length (is is 3/8"?) of steel tubing and make the bends, or do it piecemeal? thanks Tom :popcorn:

is there any company out there that makes pre-bent brake lines? I lost one a couple of years ago on the rear left axle, and now the one that comes up and over the rear axle blew. Fun when you're driving! Instead of patching yet another piece in until another blows out....any ideas? Tom :headpop:

:nuts: :nuts: :nuts: :nuts:

Do all springs have a stamping that designate their arch and, thus, capacity? Where is it, if so?

Jeff, Carnuck- Thanks! I did add some fluid and drove it awhile soft -- didn't have a helper to pump the clutch while I bled, and it drove itself right! I used the truck to go to a local boneyard and pick up an ax5 out of a 2000 XJ with the 2.5/ax5 setup. It's got an external slave, but they cut the line. I'll have to buy the slave and re-do the line. I should be able to hook my existing hydraulics up to it, right? when I do swap in this trans (same time as engine swap -- see below), I'm keeping my flywheel, so I imagine I can use the same clutch from my 87, with this trans from 2000? As for engine. I saw there was another thread. It's tough with the late 80's TBI's, but I'm going to try. Already have a clifford header on there. I'm going to get a core 2.5 and have it rebuilt and do a cam and lifters. Unfortunately, fuel delivery is the limiting factor. I have NO desire to do a whole wiring harness swap to MPI! I'd rather swap out both axles (4.10) for 4.56s. My 2.5 is so beat - but runs - that I can turn the crank by grabbing the belt and pulling. It's going to feel turbocharged with just a rebuild! :D Tom

hey guys, I got a new clutch slave a couple of years ago when the clutch was replaced -- I didn't do it. One of those jobs I have no idea about so I haven't attempted it. Anyways, the slave went bad 6 months later. Trans guy was cool and took care of it for me. I was driving last week in the rain, and as I shifted from 1-2 or 2-3, my foot slipped off the clutch pedal and it came flying up, and the tires chirped. Ever since, had a bit of a boggy pedal, and the catch point is really low now. Is that a common way to blow the seal on the slave? I'm working on collecting a new 2.5/ax5/np231 drivetrain to swap into my tired, tired 182K truck anyway, but I didn't want to send it to the grave before it helped me pick up my new drivetrain! :) Any thoughts? T :popcorn:

anyone...? :popcorn:

Don, I'm good, but when I look at pics of your truck, I get disgusted with mine! LOL. Looks great, even the leafs are clean and painted, and the rear diff cover is great! Love the 'Bama cat! How are you? Your MJ must roar! Tom

Not true, at least in my case. I've had a Hesco 4.5L stroker in my rig for a couple of years now. My original Mar 2005 peak dyno readings at rear wheel were 182.4HP @ 4250RPM and 228 ft/lbs torque at the same RPM. Last month I went back to Hesco for my over 2-year checkup. The peak readings this time were 208.0HP @ 3990RPM w. 276.8 ft/lbs torque. The only major performance changes I've done since 2005 were getting rid of the cat and replacing it with a 2.5" in/out glass pack, into a Walker (the Flowmaster was too loud for me) single 2.5" inlet / dual 2.5" outlet Hi-Flow muffler, then dual 2.5" pipes all the way back over the axle exiting under the bumper. Also Hesco had to lower the fuel pressure from 44PSI to 38.5PSI to get the best dyno readings. Lee Hurley did the dyno runs himself, and was happy. I've read that you need lots of back pressure for the 4.0L engines too, but did not believe it. You just never know how mods will affect the engine until you put it on the dyno. Don, that's the setup I want (except for canning the cat) :roll: Did you have the 2.5" cat back, over-axle pipes custom bent? Did you have to remove your spare? Thanks! Tom (your chrome supplier) :USAflag:

I'm going to start by saying that nobody better say "just drop a (name engine here: 4.0, 3.4, 2.8, v8 ) in it." :brows: I don't want to fab, I don't want to swap wiring harnesses. My 2.5 in my 87 is getting beat. What I'd like to do is find another 2.5, have it rebuild with ported heads, a mild Mopar cam, and bored over with bigger pistons. I'm not building a race-car here, but want a bit more power and no headaches in rigging it together. My question is, if I just swap everything over, including the Renix TBI setup, will I even notice the extra power? I mean, am I handcuffing myself by building a beefier engine, only to hook everything back up (except the clifford header and K&N filter/rusty's tube)? Will it run lean if I'm running a cam and headers and the factory ECM, Renix fuel delivery, and stock sensors? Anyone have any guesses? Thanks! Tom

Jeff- Try RockAuto.com. I didn't have time to really look into it, but they do sell molded coolant hoses for our trucks. They might have it. I bought front and back brake cables while I have the interior apart, might be good to have an e-brake with the 5 speed :nuts: Tom

Thanks, Jeff. I searched on worldparts.com and partsvoice.com, and got only ONE hit. A dealership up in NH. $8.50 plus shipping for the hose. Seems as if I got the last known one. Now what??? Any aftermarket suppliers of this kind of molded hose? :eek: Tom

Why not just get a new EGR valve? I've always read that there's no performance gained by blocking off the EGR valve, and that you raise crankcase pressure, which will most likely, on the 4.0, increase the ever-present blow-by.

left my catalog CD at home. For my 87 2.5 MJ, I need the molded hose that runs from the intake to the thermostat housing. In the past, I've replaced these with non-molded hoses, and it's a pain. If anyone could get me the Jeep part #, I'd be really grateful, as the MJ is temporarily my DD, even though the interior is stripped! Tom

I'll do some footwork on this too. Taking the MJ this week to have the r12 drained, and pulling the 4 banger sometime in the next couple of weeks, want to do a cam and lifters, keep the rest more or less stock, except for the header. With the renix motor, not sure what fuel mods you can make to the TBI/injectors.

Jeff- PM'ed you....you can have one of mine Pete, is the AMC20 a 12 bolt rear? I checked car-part.com and for 86 it lists the 35, the 44, and a 12 bolt with 4.10. ?? :nuts:

On topic, and it's probably too late since I've done it already, but has anyone had any problems repairing 3/16" brake line with compression/union fittings? I did two of them on my new beater 88 MJ, and when I went to throw the package away I read: "not for use on automotive brake lines." :eek: I've done this on a couple other cars, and I'm sure the right thing is to replace the brake line all the way through, but any danger in doing this?

The 87-89 MJ's with 4 cyl and overdrive autos were the AW4, believe it or not; nearly indestructible behind the 2.5L. Gearing was usually 4.56 for that setup as well.

Could be your fuel pickup is clogged, if it cuts out when the fuel swishes around with you making turns.

I like it, very cool, esp. the SBC. You need to get four matching wheels, though! ;) Are you running manual steering??

thanks, fellers. :cheers: